Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #41   Report Post  
Tim Douglass
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 20:53:54 GMT, igor wrote:

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:38:48 -0800, Tim Douglass
wrote:


Toolking is the place I found the refurb for $399. They also only list
$6.99 for shipping, which seems odd for a 100 lb item, but....


Tim Douglass

I think their shipping is "free" but they charge a small per-order fee.


Ahhh... that would make sense.
Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com
  #42   Report Post  
Leon
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"DL" wrote in message
news:cZuRd.53760$Vg3.34496@lakeread05...
Leon,

From a general use standpoint I agree that sanding or scaping should be
done post planing. When the blades dull some you will get some nicks in
the wood and it is probably better to scrape them out vs taking another
layer of wood off.

Where I find the 2 speeds critically different is in highly figured woods.
Birdseye maple used to tear out horribly with my old Delta 22-540 12"
planer. With the new Dewalt, on the slower speed, there is minimal
tearout if any at all. Additionally, in very hard woods, my single speed
Delta used to leave waves of ripples that needed scraped and sanded out.
Given that it was on all of the boards run through, it meant a
considerable amount of time, so slowing the speed down and running a final
pass is well worth the time.

David


Well that sounds like a valid point. Although I plane a lot of Ipe and do
not have a wave or ripple problem with my old Ryobi planer. I does however
have the old style resharpenable blades.


  #43   Report Post  
DL
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Leon wrote:
"DL" wrote in message
news:cZuRd.53760$Vg3.34496@lakeread05...

Leon,

From a general use standpoint I agree that sanding or scaping should be
done post planing. When the blades dull some you will get some nicks in
the wood and it is probably better to scrape them out vs taking another
layer of wood off.

Where I find the 2 speeds critically different is in highly figured woods.
Birdseye maple used to tear out horribly with my old Delta 22-540 12"
planer. With the new Dewalt, on the slower speed, there is minimal
tearout if any at all. Additionally, in very hard woods, my single speed
Delta used to leave waves of ripples that needed scraped and sanded out.
Given that it was on all of the boards run through, it meant a
considerable amount of time, so slowing the speed down and running a final
pass is well worth the time.

David



Well that sounds like a valid point. Although I plane a lot of Ipe and do
not have a wave or ripple problem with my old Ryobi planer. I does however
have the old style resharpenable blades.


Leon,

I had the tearout problem with brand new blades and when they had been
resharpened with my old Delta.

I am curious as to what you plane the IPE for. I am in the process of
completing my deck with IPE. Absolutely love the look on the deck. I
bought enough extra to make some benches and other things so I am
curious for ideas. My wife wants me to build a bench for our shower out
of IPE, but I am not sure. I guess with a waterproof glue it would be
OK. My understanding from some people that work with it on decks is
that doesn't finish well after being sanded. Any tips on gluing and
finishing? Your thoughts would be appreciated. Now I have to run out
back and get a few pieces to plane down some.

David
  #44   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"DL" wrote in message

I am in the process of completing my deck with IPE. Absolutely love the
look on the deck. I bought enough extra to make some benches and other
things so I am curious for ideas. My wife wants me to build a bench for
our shower out of IPE, but I am not sure. I guess with a waterproof glue
it would be OK. My understanding from some people that work with it on
decks is that doesn't finish well after being sanded. Any tips on gluing
and finishing? Your thoughts would be appreciated. Now I have to run out
back and get a few pieces to plane down some.

David



Wood magazine, June/July 2004 has a simple garden bench that is sized for
decking material. I built one in a couple of easy weekends. With the
leftovers I made a couple of matching tables. They were also posted on abpw
last year or I you can see them on my web page, under woodworking, of
course. --
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/



  #45   Report Post  
Leon
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"DL" wrote in message
news:7_wRd.55428$Vg3.55354@lakeread05...

Leon,


I am curious as to what you plane the IPE for.


I need to end up with pieces that are 3/8" thick. I generally buy Ipe rough
cut that is 1" thick. I resaw it on my TS and end up with 2 bieces tha can
be planed down to 3/8" thick.


I am in the process of
completing my deck with IPE. Absolutely love the look on the deck. I
bought enough extra to make some benches and other things so I am curious
for ideas. My wife wants me to build a bench for our shower out of IPE,
but I am not sure. I guess with a waterproof glue it would be OK. My
understanding from some people that work with it on decks is that doesn't
finish well after being sanded.


I have never finished Ipe but have tried some shellac on it.

Ipe really does not need to be finished.

Any tips on gluing and finishing? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Additionally I have built a BBQ pit shelf with Ipe and rebuilt 3 park bench
style benches. The benches had 12 or 13 pieces 1-1/2" wide strips that
formed the seat and back. The ends were cast iron. After sanding, Ipe
holds it smooth finish and splinters are no longer a problem. I have had
pretty good luck using polyurethane glue.

Something to think about though, I turned a 1"x1"x8" piece of Ipe on the
lather and sanded it on the lathe. With a paper towel I applied Minwax
Finishing Wax to the spinning spindle and 2 years later the piece retains a
nice satin finish. Basically sanded to 220 or more and waxed the Ipe has a
very nice deep color with that hand rubbed look that is as hard as a rock.
I think I would not worry with a finish at all except for a little wax.

Play with it, use a fine grit sand paper and try some wax.








  #46   Report Post  
DL
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Leon wrote:
"DL" wrote in message
news:7_wRd.55428$Vg3.55354@lakeread05...

Leon,



I am curious as to what you plane the IPE for.



I need to end up with pieces that are 3/8" thick. I generally buy Ipe rough
cut that is 1" thick. I resaw it on my TS and end up with 2 bieces tha can
be planed down to 3/8" thick.


I am in the process of

completing my deck with IPE. Absolutely love the look on the deck. I
bought enough extra to make some benches and other things so I am curious
for ideas. My wife wants me to build a bench for our shower out of IPE,
but I am not sure. I guess with a waterproof glue it would be OK. My
understanding from some people that work with it on decks is that doesn't
finish well after being sanded.



I have never finished Ipe but have tried some shellac on it.

Ipe really does not need to be finished.

Any tips on gluing and finishing? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Additionally I have built a BBQ pit shelf with Ipe and rebuilt 3 park bench
style benches. The benches had 12 or 13 pieces 1-1/2" wide strips that
formed the seat and back. The ends were cast iron. After sanding, Ipe
holds it smooth finish and splinters are no longer a problem. I have had
pretty good luck using polyurethane glue.

Something to think about though, I turned a 1"x1"x8" piece of Ipe on the
lather and sanded it on the lathe. With a paper towel I applied Minwax
Finishing Wax to the spinning spindle and 2 years later the piece retains a
nice satin finish. Basically sanded to 220 or more and waxed the Ipe has a
very nice deep color with that hand rubbed look that is as hard as a rock.
I think I would not worry with a finish at all except for a little wax.

Play with it, use a fine grit sand paper and try some wax.






Leon,

I think for indoor applications the wax is a great idea but I am not
sure how the wax would weather outside. I will say that I put an edge
treatment on the endgrain (Anchorseal) to stop the splitting and there
have been no ill effects to the wax in the rain or snow. Outdoors, I
will do either unfinished or MESSMER'S U.V. PLUS for Hardwoods Natural
wood finish. Primary reason for this is to minimize the greying of the
wood with UV protection. As I understand it, the Ocean City Boardwalk
was installed using IPE 25 years ago. I went to look at it last summer
and it looks great. Doesn't begin to show wear.

Wonder how a waxed finished bench would do in a shower. I would expect
that leaving it unfinished would be the best thing.

I expect for the deck I will end up making 3 - 4 benches and a few side
tables. We also are going to build a 14' X 14' platform out of IPE to
put one of the nice 12' X 12' Gazebo's Costco sells. For this I expect
a larger table will be requested.

I'm sure this would make some beautiful pens.

I will do some tests and let you know. Thanks for the guidance.

David
  #47   Report Post  
Leon
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"DL" wrote in message
news:T4IRd.56482$Vg3.42021@lakeread05...
Leon,

I think for indoor applications the wax is a great idea but I am not sure
how the wax would weather outside. I will say that I put an edge
treatment on the endgrain (Anchorseal) to stop the splitting and there
have been no ill effects to the wax in the rain or snow. Outdoors, I will
do either unfinished or MESSMER'S U.V. PLUS for Hardwoods Natural wood
finish. Primary reason for this is to minimize the greying of the wood
with UV protection. As I understand it, the Ocean City Boardwalk was
installed using IPE 25 years ago. I went to look at it last summer and it
looks great. Doesn't begin to show wear.


Yeah, the finish would simply be for appearance and not protection. Ipe
reportedly will last out doors for 50 + years with no finish.

Wonder how a waxed finished bench would do in a shower. I would expect
that leaving it unfinished would be the best thing.


The wax will probably not help any at all. I will simply add a shiune to
the surface. IMHO the Ipe will hold its color indoors out of sun light.
Put a piece in the shower and see how it holds up. Be sure to sand it
first.


I'm sure this would make some beautiful pens.

I will do some tests and let you know. Thanks for the guidance.

David



  #48   Report Post  
patrick conroy
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Walt Conner" wrote in message
.net...



The messages may be in the archives. Some comments from people who DO have
them have been that one speed is slow and the other slower and after the
first few passes, little difference in cut is noticeable.


Mine are too. As a 735 owner, the slower speed has saved my bacon a coupl'a
times. Maybe knowledge or technique wulda/culda done the same. Dunno. Ran
some Lacewood thru it the other day down to 1/4". Nary a hint of tearout or
snipe.

And for the comment about it not being a finish planer - the finish on my
stuff (albeit with pretty new blades) is amazing.

Unless they meant Finnish planer, then I'd have to agree.


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wide Planer, or Compact Planer + Wide Sander? Nate B Woodworking 5 January 21st 04 08:19 PM
Delta or DeWalt 13" Planer Tommy Woodworking 9 October 25th 03 01:13 PM
FYI Dewalt 733 Planer TAP Woodworking 1 September 2nd 03 05:20 PM
Planers versus jointers McQualude Woodworking 22 September 2nd 03 10:33 AM
New Delta planer todd Woodworking 9 August 22nd 03 09:59 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:05 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"