I have a series of 8 drawers in a built-in cabinet. They are full
overlay(front extends over opening). I want to make the voids between
each drawer front small enough to make them nearly invisible. I realize
that the human eye is capable of picking up a 1/32" gap. I've drawn up
several cuts such as 2-9 degree bevels, but nothing seems to do the
trick. Am I attempting the impossible, or is there something I've
overlooked?

I'm using Blum bottom mount slides, self-closing. Planning on using
stero cabinet magnetic kick-out latches. Unlimited overlay is passible
since they have not been cut to size yet.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...Junkyard Jim

Oh yeah, BTW, I AM anal. This project is part of my magnum opus.

Hi Jim,

I'm not sure that I understand the problem. If they
were inset, that would be another story.

If you have all the boxes built and want (say)1/64 between
the fronts, why can't you insert a (say) 1/64 spacer
between fronts and go from there?

Back bevel for better clearance.

Lou

In article .com,
Junkyard Jim wrote:

I have a series of 8 drawers in a built-in cabinet. They are full
overlay(front extends over opening). I want to make the voids between
each drawer front small enough to make them nearly invisible. I realize
that the human eye is capable of picking up a 1/32" gap. I've drawn up
several cuts such as 2-9 degree bevels, but nothing seems to do the
trick. Am I attempting the impossible, or is there something I've
overlooked?

I'm using Blum bottom mount slides, self-closing. Planning on using
stero cabinet magnetic kick-out latches. Unlimited overlay is passible
since they have not been cut to size yet.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...Junkyard Jim

Better reduce that to 1/128" if you want it to be invisable at 10 feet.
Smaller if you're closer.

"Junkyard Jim" wrote in message I
realize
that the human eye is capable of picking up a 1/32" gap.

On 26 Jan 2005 16:18:45 -0800, the inscrutable "Junkyard Jim"
spake:

I have a series of 8 drawers in a built-in cabinet. They are full
overlay(front extends over opening). I want to make the voids between
each drawer front small enough to make them nearly invisible. I realize
that the human eye is capable of picking up a 1/32" gap. I've drawn up
several cuts such as 2-9 degree bevels, but nothing seems to do the
trick. Am I attempting the impossible, or is there something I've
overlooked?

Seasonal humidity (or a shower/bath in the house) will close those
tiny gaps if you get them very tight. You don't really want to do that
unless your front panels are made of metal or a non-breathing material
other than wood.


================================================== ======
Was that an African + http://www.diversify.com
or European Swallow? + Gourmet Web Applications
================================================== ======

Underalls work for some.

--

FF

Greetings and Salutations.

On 26 Jan 2005 16:18:45 -0800, "Junkyard Jim"
wrote:

I have a series of 8 drawers in a built-in cabinet. They are full
overlay(front extends over opening). I want to make the voids between
each drawer front small enough to make them nearly invisible. I realize
that the human eye is capable of picking up a 1/32" gap. I've drawn up
several cuts such as 2-9 degree bevels, but nothing seems to do the
trick. Am I attempting the impossible, or is there something I've
overlooked?

I'm using Blum bottom mount slides, self-closing. Planning on using
stero cabinet magnetic kick-out latches. Unlimited overlay is passible
since they have not been cut to size yet.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...Junkyard Jim

You are, I suspect, attempting the impossible, *if* what you
want is an unbroken surface with knobs (I assume you have handles of
SOME sort on the drawers). However, how about dividing the entire
surface into a grid, with the drawer intersections falling at the
grid lines? By cutting shallow grooves in a square pattern that is
about at a 2x or 3x frequency to the width of the drawers, it will
make the splits between the drawers disappear.
Having re-read your post,though, It appears that you are
NOT Planning to have surface-mounted pulls (perhaps going with
a cove on the inside of the drawer front?). In that case, the
grid pattern would work even better at disguising the locations
of the drawers.
Alternatively, you could do a Mondrian-like pattern on
the front of the surface, with irregular blocks surrounded with
black borders...lining up the black borders with the gaps
where the drawers end.
Now...if you were willing to go with MDF drawer fronts,
and put on a veneer, you could likely get as close a tolerance
as you are looking for, and, would not run into the problems
of wood movement due to humidity changes that you WILL have with
solid wood fronts. by veneering the edges before the front,
you can overlap the thickness of the veneer and take the front
veneer right to the edge of the front.
My concern would be long-term stability. Life is tough
on furniture, and, I fear that in fairly short order, the edges
will get dinged and the illusion of a solid wall will be ruined.
That sort of thing is fixable, but, alas, kind of a pain in the
butt for color matching, etc.
Regards
Dave Mundt