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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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AAaarhhggg! Glue problem.
I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board
I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks |
#2
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Masking tape around joints before glueing.
-- ___________________ HomeBrewer http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ http://85cj7.webhop.net/ http://funfacts.webhop.org/ "When you decide something is impossible to do, try to stay out of the way of the man that's doing it." |
#3
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Some wipe off the excess when it's still wet using a wet cloth. This works,
but can thin the glue and spread it around resulting it what you're seeing. If possible, let the squeeze out set up to the point where it's almost, but not quite dry. Then you can scrape the "chunks" off using a sharp chisel. Good luck Rob -- http://www.robswoodworking.com "stoutman" wrote in message . com... I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks |
#4
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3M blue masking tape.
David stoutman wrote: I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks |
#5
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Found some 2" blue masking tape at big lots for 2.99 for 2 rolls--
works just like the 3M brand but is WAY cheaper. I'm going back for more tomorrow-- bet they're out. |
#6
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On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 02:37:17 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:
I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks 1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain. 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not soaked into the wood. |
#7
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stoutman wrote:
I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks Little trick from Michael Fortune - Waxalit (or it could be Waxilit) - available from Lee Valley. It's a wax like material with a consistency somewhere between valaline and a paste wax. Put it on with a Q-tip around the joints, glue pops right off when dry, get it off with alcohol on a Q-tip. A little goes a long way so get the small can. charlie b |
#8
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What in your answer is going to help the OP? He didn't ask for your
opinion about staining. Is there always "the right color of wood"? If so why have people been staining or otherwise coloring wood for centuries? If he decided to "glaze" or tone instead of staining the glue squeeze out would still be visible, would it not? |
#9
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I believe the OP was asking about a solution for glue squeeze out- not
a diatribe against staining. There isn't always "the right color of wood" hence the reason people have been staining or otherwise coloring wood for centuries. And even if he decided to "glaze", tone, etc. the glue squeeze out would still be visible. Not a lot of helpful information in your post to help the OP. |
#10
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"stoutman" wrote in message . com... I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any suggestions? Frustrating, isn't it? Best I've found is a scrape and scratch, followed by restaining. If you try to restain over wood compressed by scraping, it still won't work, so 220 will help. A bit of creative color mixing with artist color might blend them a bit. I built that bed for/with my eldest, and we just mortised (new task - new tool) so we could go with tight tenons and a drop at the bottom. Any squeeze can be left, as others have said, until leathery. Scrape and then give the whole area a reveal wipe with mineral spirits to make _sure_ you're clear before final sanding and staining. Do this even if you try to mask. Daughter now wants one, but I've got until the wedding in May to finish it. |
#11
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Try the less is more approach, many folks don't glue the slats. I personally would stay outta the tape business as what you're talking about would be as much a pain in the hiney as the glue. You may think about very minimal gorilla glue, I mean minimal! if there is any foam out it is easily cleaned up with a sharp chisel. |
#12
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Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of
"Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for those particular "colors" of wood, my friend? Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood! David s wrote: 1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain. 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not soaked into the wood. |
#13
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On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 08:01:35 -0800, David wrote:
Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of "Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for those particular "colors" of wood, my friend? see option (2) Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood! glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses. just looks cheap and fake to me. David wrote: 1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain. 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not soaked into the wood. |
#14
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#15
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The problem with "Glazing" is the colour is only on the service of the timber, hence any scratches or chips show the original colour. By "Soaking" staining the raw timber you achieve a penetration of the applied colour, thus meaning that chips and scratches have to be much more severe to make themselves noticeable. John s wrote: On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 08:01:35 -0800, David wrote: Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of "Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for those particular "colors" of wood, my friend? see option (2) Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood! glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses. just looks cheap and fake to me. David wrote: 1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain. 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not soaked into the wood. |
#16
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"David" wrote in message ... Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of "Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for those particular "colors" of wood, my friend? Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood! David Y'know, both of those are designed to mimic the aged color of a couple of different kinds of oak. Now if he was going green.... |
#17
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If you knew better techniques, you wouldn't think that staining equals
uneveness, even on blotch prone woods. David s wrote: glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses. just looks cheap and fake to me. |
#18
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David George wrote: "David" wrote in message ... Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of "Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for those particular "colors" of wood, my friend? Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood! David Y'know, both of those are designed to mimic the aged color of a couple of different kinds of oak. Now if he was going green.... |
#19
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1. In the future, you can wipe the project down with mineral spirits
snd it will show all the glue spots before you stain. 2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or scraper. 3. In your current situation, don't bother sanding. It's too ineffective in tight spots. Get an actuall scraper, sharpen that sucker up, burnish it, etc. and reomve peels until you hit fresh wood. Alternatively you can use a razor glue scraper or a crazy sharp chisel. |
#20
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:
2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or scraper. Think snots. When the glue gets to the consistency of snot, it's easily zipped off with the chisel or scraper. Barry |
#21
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wrote: glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses. just looks cheap and fake to me. On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:45:35 -0800, David wrote: If you knew better techniques, you wouldn't think that staining equals uneveness, even on blotch prone woods. David I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder, darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV. |
#22
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wrote in message ... On 23 Jan 2005 23:01:00 -0800, wrote: What in your answer is going to help the OP? He didn't ask for your opinion about staining. Is there always "the right color of wood"? If so why have people been staining or otherwise coloring wood for centuries? If he decided to "glaze" or tone instead of staining the glue squeeze out would still be visible, would it not? I assume you're talking to me. as far as cleaning up his current situation, he's on the right track. scrape, sand, try to blend the stain. I would think that the correct track would be to try and prevent it in the first place. most of the stains on the market are made to either fake up one wood to look like another or simulate the effects of age. what the hell is wrong with an honest piece of wood? Perhaps some of us don't have an endless supply of money or don't want to deal with the characteristics of some wood types. a little glue squeezeout- especially down in the wood rather than a glob on the surface- is a lot less visible under a glaze. -- If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving |
#23
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"Unnatural"? Wood, by it's very nature is NATURAL. If you want
eveness, use plastic or paint. David s wrote: I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder, darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV. |
#24
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:
2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or scraper. I'll second or third that one. Wiping the glue is a recipe for disaster IME. It just gets it way down deep into the wood and makes it almost impossible to clean up. This is evident at finishing time even if you don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the Placating Larry Jacques Society. -- Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/ http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/ |
#25
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On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 11:55:07 -0500, the inscrutable Silvan
spake: SonomaProducts.com wrote: 2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or scraper. I'll second or third that one. Wiping the glue is a recipe for disaster IME. It just gets it way down deep into the wood and makes it almost impossible to clean up. This is evident at finishing time even if you don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the Placating Larry Jacques Society. After all this time, Silvie, you still misspell my name. sigh -- People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they'll pick themselves up and carry on. --anon |
#26
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Larry Jaques wrote:
don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the Placating Larry Jacques Society. After all this time, Silvie, you still misspell my name. sigh Oh hell. Have you pointed that out to me before? If so, I probably missed it. I'm pretty anal about details like that, and I almost certainly would have remembered if I had noticed your mentioning it sooner. Speaking of Placating Larry Jaques and Shellaques... I think it was Tom or Keith who said something about using shellac on cast iron. Maybe Charlie. Anyway, I painted the base of my DP with the stuff umpty moons ago, and I was just noticing the other day that it's still in perfect shape. Good way to use up stuff that's about to go bad. Might even be suitable for the DP table or such. Though probably not a TS top or other surface that sees a great deal of sliding. (And yeah, I realize that even though I associate you in my own twisted mind as the guy who badgered me into trying shellac, you actually tout Waterlox, IIRC, as your finish of choice. I'm perfectly well aware of the irony Monsieur.) -- Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/ http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/ |
#27
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wrote: I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder, darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV. On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:37:24 -0800, David wrote: "Unnatural"? Wood, by it's very nature is NATURAL. If you want eveness, use plastic or paint. David Dave, you were doing well for a while there. I was really happy to see you drop the B.A.D. boy act. too good to last, I guess. |
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