I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave

"Cox West" wrote in message
news:b50Cd.69038$QR1.29806@fed1read04...
------snip-----

friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any
thoughts? Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle
brushes, but very few of the natural wood bristle type.

I, presently, have a nylon tooth brush mounted on mine. At first I had it
mounted such that it overheated and melted a tad. I suspect if one were to
use some natural, broom straws from an old wisk broom it might be better.
Just bundle up a bunch the size of a dime and use epoxy on one end of the
bundle. Trim and mount.

Larry

I have a bandsaw wheel brush from Iturra Designs that's nylon and I've
had it for about a year with no noticeable wear or melting. But I
don't know whether all nylon is the same.

(BTW, if you've got a bandsaw, give Iturra a call at 888-722-7078 and
ask for a copy of their catalog of bandsaw accessories, it's well
worth a read. I have no affiliation with them except as a satisfied
customer.)

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave


-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave


My shop-made brush balance was made from a brass wire brush. You
could buy a boar hair brush and cut it to fit.

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 21:33:31 -0500, John Carlson wrote:

I called them two about 3 wks ago, I need to the catalog to order a new spring,
two tires and cool blocks. They never replied!

I have a bandsaw wheel brush from Iturra Designs that's nylon and I've
had it for about a year with no noticeable wear or melting. But I
don't know whether all nylon is the same.

(BTW, if you've got a bandsaw, give Iturra a call at 888-722-7078 and
ask for a copy of their catalog of bandsaw accessories, it's well
worth a read. I have no affiliation with them except as a satisfied
customer.)

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave


-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 21:33:31 -0500, John Carlson wrote:

I called them about 3 wks ago, I need the catalog to order a new spring, two
tires and cool blocks. They never replied!

I have a bandsaw wheel brush from Iturra Designs that's nylon and I've
had it for about a year with no noticeable wear or melting. But I
don't know whether all nylon is the same.

(BTW, if you've got a bandsaw, give Iturra a call at 888-722-7078 and
ask for a copy of their catalog of bandsaw accessories, it's well
worth a read. I have no affiliation with them except as a satisfied
customer.)

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave


-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

Old - fashion scrub brush like the ones you used to GI the latrines. Two
bunches across, two long, and the wooden block bolts in.

"Cox West" wrote in message
news:b50Cd.69038$QR1.29806@fed1read04...
I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel
to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine.
The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any
thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave

In article ,
WD wrote:

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 21:33:31 -0500, John Carlson
wrote:

I called them about 3 wks ago, I need the catalog to order a new spring, two
tires and cool blocks. They never replied!


When I called for a catalog, it took forever to arrive, too (months, I
think). But when I called to order (still waiting for the catalog), they
helped identify what I needed and shipped my order in a reasonable time.
I think that catalog requests are forwarded to a monk who produces them
one at a time by hand.

PDX David

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 07:33:33 -0800, Jane & David wrote:

Do you know the prices for the following items...(for Grizzly G0555)
1. Tension spring.
2. Replace bearing guide to cool block guide.
3. Tires (require 2, what type?)
Finally, do they have a website and do they sell BS saw blades?

Thanks, appreciate your reply.

In article ,
WD wrote:

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 21:33:31 -0500, John Carlson
wrote:

I called them about 3 wks ago, I need the catalog to order a new spring, two
tires and cool blocks. They never replied!


When I called for a catalog, it took forever to arrive, too (months, I
think). But when I called to order (still waiting for the catalog), they
helped identify what I needed and shipped my order in a reasonable time.
I think that catalog requests are forwarded to a monk who produces them
one at a time by hand.

PDX David

In article b50Cd.69038$QR1.29806@fed1read04, Cox West
wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Step-by-step directions, using a toothbrush:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/PhotoAlbum4.html

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. ...

The article is interesting in that it contradicts some very
basic tenets about band saw setup & operation.

In article ,
WD wrote:

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 07:33:33 -0800, Jane & David
wrote:

Do you know the prices for the following items...(for Grizzly G0555)
1. Tension spring.
2. Replace bearing guide to cool block guide.
3. Tires (require 2, what type?)
Finally, do they have a website and do they sell BS saw blades?

Thanks, appreciate your reply.


Hello WD,

If these questions are directed to me I'm afraid my Iturra catalog is a
few years old now so prices wouldn't be accurate. (besides I don't think
I could find it :-)

They do sell BS blades. But I recommend calling them, telling them what
saw you have, and getting their recommendation on what to buy. They are
nice folks and really know their stuff.

PDX David

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 14:26:21 -0500, GregP
wrote:

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" wrote:

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. ...

The article is interesting in that it contradicts some very
basic tenets about band saw setup & operation.

Care to elaborate? (And no, I'm not looking to pick a fight. This
sounds genuinely interesting.)

--RC

"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 11:52:24 -0700, Vince Heuring
wrote:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/PhotoAlbum4.html

That link comes back with:
We're sorry, but we can't find the HomePage you've requested. It's
possible that: ...

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 15:04:11 -0800, Jane & David wrote:

It would be nice to know the prices before calling them. I need a good bandsaw
blade to finished resaw green lumbers. While at it I am might as well buy a few
items I mentioned earlier.

Thanks,


In article ,
WD wrote:

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 07:33:33 -0800, Jane & David
wrote:

Do you know the prices for the following items...(for Grizzly G0555)
1. Tension spring.
2. Replace bearing guide to cool block guide.
3. Tires (require 2, what type?)
Finally, do they have a website and do they sell BS saw blades?

Thanks, appreciate your reply.


Hello WD,

If these questions are directed to me I'm afraid my Iturra catalog is a
few years old now so prices wouldn't be accurate. (besides I don't think
I could find it :-)

They do sell BS blades. But I recommend calling them, telling them what
saw you have, and getting their recommendation on what to buy. They are
nice folks and really know their stuff.

PDX David

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 23:16:31 GMT, wrote:


Care to elaborate? (And no, I'm not looking to pick a fight. This
sounds genuinely interesting.)

I hope I'm not mistating anything:

1. The author uses the band saw with a 1/2 inch 3 tpi skip tooth
blade for "just about " "everything"
2. 1/2 HP is more than enough for "big resawing tasks" on a 14"
saw with a 1/2" 3 tpi blade; anything more than that "is
overkill." In general, a 1/3 HP motor is enough otherwise.
3. Undertension the blade.
4. Set the fence once and leave it alone. Align the blade
instead.
5. Use metal blocks with a clearance of .001 rather than the
standard .003

WD wrote in
:

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 07:33:33 -0800, Jane & David
wrote:

Do you know the prices for the following items...(for Grizzly G0555)
1. Tension spring.
2. Replace bearing guide to cool block guide.
3. Tires (require 2, what type?)
Finally, do they have a website and do they sell BS saw blades?


FWIW you can buy the springs from other places (such as
www.highlandhardware.com). You'll want the 3" spring; it runs $17. Tires
can be obtained from places like Woodcraft.

I'm not sure how you would go about replacing the G0555 roller bearings
with cool blocks.

Hope that helps.

GregP reposts:

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 23:16:31 GMT, wrote:


Care to elaborate? (And no, I'm not looking to pick a fight. This
sounds genuinely interesting.)

I hope I'm not mistating anything:

1. The author uses the band saw with a 1/2 inch 3 tpi skip tooth
blade for "just about " "everything"
2. 1/2 HP is more than enough for "big resawing tasks" on a 14"
saw with a 1/2" 3 tpi blade; anything more than that "is
overkill." In general, a 1/3 HP motor is enough otherwise.
3. Undertension the blade.
4. Set the fence once and leave it alone. Align the blade
instead.
5. Use metal blocks with a clearance of .001 rather than the
standard .003

I have got to find a copy of that article. After #1, the statements are not
accurate without a lot of qualifiers, IMO. Actually, a 1/2" blade is not good
for "just about" everything, either. I tried cutting some fairly modest curves
on my machine with a 1/2" the other day. Pfui. #2, might be true in ideal
conditions. Might not, too, with jarrah and ipe and hickory and hard maple.
Undertensioning *some* blades works. With others, you get a barrel cut.

For #4, I'm still looking for a blade adjustment knob on my bandsaw. In oher
words, WTF does this MEAN?

Block clearance: maybe. Some times. Some times not.

Charlie Self
"A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to
the ground." H. L. Mencken

On 04 Jan 2005 09:53:41 GMT, otforme (Charlie Self)
wrote:


I have got to find a copy of that article. ....

It's "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing" by Michael Fortune
on page 66 of the December 2004 issue of Fine Woodworking.

After #1, the statements are not accurate without a lot of qualifiers

He does have some. There are probably other implicit ones
that I didn't pick up on because I haven't used a band saw in
40 years. (I'm not arguing that he is right, by the way).

For #4, I'm still looking for a blade adjustment knob on my bandsaw. In oher
words, WTF does this MEAN?

I'll quote a bit:

" Align the blade to eliminate drift

When I bought my bandsaw in 1974, I set
the fence parallel to the miter gauge slot
in the table and I haven't had to adjust it
since. The reason is that I use the tracking
adjustment on the upper bandsaw wheel
to align the blade (see drawings on the
facing page). A nightmare of fence adjust-
ments ensues if each new blade is allowed
to track differently.
Simply be keeping the centerline of the
blade (regardless of width) in line with the
centerline of the upper wheel, I am able to
keep the blade aligned correctly at the
blade guides."

There's more on this.

In article , igor
wrote:

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 11:52:24 -0700, Vince Heuring
wrote:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/PhotoAlbum4.html

That link comes back with:
We're sorry, but we can't find the HomePage you've requested. It's
possible that: ...


Sorry about that, here's the correct link:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...otoAlbum4.html

Regards, Vince

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

ah- but how well did it work? I had a similar arangement for a while,
I was unimpressed. Of course, cheapskate that I am, I used a "used"
tooth brush.

-Dan


Sorry about that, here's the correct link:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...otoAlbum4.html

Regards, Vince

Vince Heuring wrote:
Sorry about that, here's the correct link:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...otoAlbum4.html



Hey Vince, I should probably pay attention better but..

So, does the Harbor Freight magnet hold everything in place?
I like the idea onna 'count of I have a no drilling clause
with most of my machines.

Also, it involves magnets.

UA100, who keeps a hand full of magnets on hand for all
sorts of useful reasons...

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

nononono! the nylon will build up a static charge and cause an
explosion in your PVC DC pipes.

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine. The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave

HF sells those big welding magnets; if there's room in the cabinet,
they would probably hold.

Do a search on 'magnet'. The pull retrieving ones that are 100#,
150#, or 250# ought to work. Those go onsale for 50% off sometimes.
The 250# looks to be flat so it might just fit in the cabinet.

On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 10:21:24 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Vince Heuring wrote:
Sorry about that, here's the correct link:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...otoAlbum4.html



Hey Vince, I should probably pay attention better but..

So, does the Harbor Freight magnet hold everything in place?
I like the idea onna 'count of I have a no drilling clause
with most of my machines.

Also, it involves magnets.

UA100, who keeps a hand full of magnets on hand for all
sorts of useful reasons...

That's a good one. Static charges can only build-up on surfaces that have
no means of dissipating the charge. Unless one's shop has wiring "issues",
the bandsaw is grounded through the plug.

Dave


"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:11:45 -0500, "Cox West" vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

nononono! the nylon will build up a static charge and cause an
explosion in your PVC DC pipes.

I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel
to
help reduce sawdust build-up, per a tip from Fine Woodworking magazine.
The
article recommends a "stiff natural bristle" brush.
Anyone have experience with using a nylon bristle brush? I'm thinking the
article's mention of natural bristles might have something to do with
friction heating the nylon bristles, but don't know for sure. Any
thoughts?
Stores in my area have a wide selection of nylon bristle brushes, but very
few of the natural wood bristle type.

Dave

coloradotrout wrote:
Do a search on 'magnet'. The pull retrieving ones that are 100#,
150#, or 250# ought to work. Those go onsale for 50% off sometimes.
The 250# looks to be flat so it might just fit in the cabinet.


Yahbut, the band saw is directly below the bat tub and I'm
afraid I won't be able to pull it back down from the
ceiling.

UA100

looks like we've solved another space/storage problem

hang all your tools (including power tools) from the ceiling when not
in use ;-)

On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 23:42:21 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

coloradotrout wrote:
Do a search on 'magnet'. The pull retrieving ones that are 100#,
150#, or 250# ought to work. Those go onsale for 50% off sometimes.
The 250# looks to be flat so it might just fit in the cabinet.


Yahbut, the band saw is directly below the bat tub and I'm
afraid I won't be able to pull it back down from the
ceiling.

UA100

In article , Unisaw A100
wrote:

Vince Heuring wrote:
Sorry about that, here's the correct link:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...otoAlbum4.html



Hey Vince, I should probably pay attention better but..

So, does the Harbor Freight magnet hold everything in place?
I like the idea onna 'count of I have a no drilling clause
with most of my machines.

Hey UA. Yes, I've had it installed for over a year and a half, and it
hasn't moved a bit, tho I must admit that when I first installed it I
watched it like a hawk to be sure it wasn't going to come loose and end
up wrecking up the saw. In answer to Dan Valleskey's question, It
works great. Never had to clean the tire.


Regards, Vince

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

Vince, thanks much. I dropped by Harbor Freight, pickup up the same magnet
you're using for about 3 bucks, and have some old un-used dentist freebee
brush in it now. Used a grinding wheel to quickly get it to the right
shape. Looks pretty good. Can't really see it coming loose, but time will
tell.

Dave


"Vince Heuring" wrote in message
om...
In article , Unisaw A100
wrote:

Vince Heuring wrote:
Sorry about that, here's the correct link:

http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...otoAlbum4.html



Hey Vince, I should probably pay attention better but..

So, does the Harbor Freight magnet hold everything in place?
I like the idea onna 'count of I have a no drilling clause
with most of my machines.

Hey UA. Yes, I've had it installed for over a year and a half, and it
hasn't moved a bit, tho I must admit that when I first installed it I
watched it like a hawk to be sure it wasn't going to come loose and end
up wrecking up the saw. In answer to Dan Valleskey's question, It
works great. Never had to clean the tire.


Regards, Vince

--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.