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#1
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Question about building saw guide
To make the saw guide to cut panels, I had originally planned to use
1xsomething for the guide for the edge of saw (with the pressed hardboard/masonite) flat to the panels with the edge at the cutting line. Is one-inch stock necessary, or can I use another piece of the 1/4" hardboard? (1/4" hardboard on 1/4" hardboard for a 1/2" thick, in theory, for the edge of the saw guide to travel along) My apologies if that is worded badly, but am hoping you folks know what I mean. The question comes up because, while my old Craftsman circular saw body would easily clear the one-inch, the new one doesn't have as much clearance between the body and the guide. I'm definitely glad I checked it *before* I built the guide; building it once works much better than re-building. Glenna |
#2
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In article fc.003d094101df7ee4003d094101df7ee4.1df7ef2@pmug. org,
Glenna Rose wrote: snip The question comes up because, while my old Craftsman circular saw body would easily clear the one-inch, the new one doesn't have as much clearance between the body and the guide. I'm definitely glad I checked it *before* I built the guide; building it once works much better than re-building. Glenna I usually make them with 1/2" material on the top and 1/4" on the bottom. Are you cutting with the blade at full depth? If so you can raise the blade, this is pretty well necessary if you are using supports under the sheet you are cutting. There are plans here that have notches in the end to allow room to clear the clamps: http://benchnotes.com/Skillsaw%20Gui..._guide_boa.htm Check out the sheet rack as well to support the sheet when you are cutting it. -- http://sawdustmaking.com |
#3
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Glenna Rose wrote:
Is one-inch stock necessary, or can I use another piece of the 1/4" hardboard? (1/4" hardboard on 1/4" hardboard for a 1/2" thick, in theory, for the edge of the saw guide to travel along) My apologies if that is worded badly, but am hoping you folks know what I mean. That was worded badly. I think you're trying to say that: You're trying to come up with some kind of saw guide rig for cutting, eg., sheets of plywood with a circular saw. You were originally going to make this guide out of 1x stock, but now you're trying to see if you can get by with 1/4" stock. You have 1/2" in there somewhere I don't quite get. The question comes up because, while my old Craftsman circular saw body would easily clear the one-inch, the new one doesn't have as much clearance between the body and the guide. I'm definitely glad I checked it *before* I built the guide; building it once works much better than re-building. This is where I'm really drawing a blank. Saw body clear the 1"? Less clearance between the body and the guide on the new saw? These remarks don't make a lot of sense relative what I *think* you're doing, so I think we're on different wavelenths. Maybe somebody else will get it immediately. -- Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/ http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/ |
#5
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"Silvan" wrote in message ... Glenna Rose wrote: Is one-inch stock necessary, or can I use another piece of the 1/4" hardboard? (1/4" hardboard on 1/4" hardboard for a 1/2" thick, in theory, for the edge of the saw guide to travel along) My apologies if that is worded badly, but am hoping you folks know what I mean. That was worded badly. I think you're trying to say that: You're trying to come up with some kind of saw guide rig for cutting, eg., sheets of plywood with a circular saw. You were originally going to make this guide out of 1x stock, but now you're trying to see if you can get by with 1/4" stock. You have 1/2" in there somewhere I don't quite get. The question comes up because, while my old Craftsman circular saw body would easily clear the one-inch, the new one doesn't have as much clearance between the body and the guide. I'm definitely glad I checked it *before* I built the guide; building it once works much better than re-building. This is where I'm really drawing a blank. Saw body clear the 1"? Less clearance between the body and the guide on the new saw? These remarks don't make a lot of sense relative what I *think* you're doing, so I think we're on different wavelenths. Maybe somebody else will get it immediately. I *think* she was saying that her new saw doesn't have much clearance under the motor overhang Mike. Thus if she is trying to cut full depth, the motor would drag on the guide piece. I have 2 guides, both 8'. One for older Craftsman RH blade, made of 1/4" masonite base & 1x4 guide piece. The other is for my PC LH blade, both base and guide are 1/2" plywood. -- Nahmie Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot. |
#6
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writes:
I *think* she was saying that her new saw doesn't have much clearance under the motor overhang Mike. Thus if she is trying to cut full depth, the motor would drag on the guide piece. That's exactly what I meant. Thank you. Fortunately, mendoc (Frank?) knew what I meant and guided me to a page that was very precise regarding construction. (And congrats on using a Mac!) I have 2 guides, both 8'. One for older Craftsman RH blade, made of 1/4" masonite base & 1x4 guide piece. The other is for my PC LH blade, both base and guide are 1/2" plywood. Just out of curiosity, why did you make one out of both plywood pieces? Since I've not made mine yet, it might make a difference in what I do. I understood the hardboard/masonite was for the extra durability of it, that it would stay true better for the saw blade to follow. Could it be so simple as to be a contrast to the wood for the visible reference of ensuring the blade is not "wandering?" otforme writes: Been there, done that. You can use the 1/4", but I like 1/2". The primary reason for the thicker material is to reduce flex in the guide when you move it around, and to reduce sideways flex when you push the saw against the edge. The latter is seldom a real problem, since the guide is...well, a guide, not a bridge abutment. So, if I'm understanding correctly, the 1/4" hardboard/masonite on the bottom with the 1/2" Russian birch as the top piece should work well, correct? Some people prefer to use aluminum for the guide strip, by the way. And if I can find a sane local source of 1/4" aluminum, I may do that for my next one. By sane, I mean reasonable in price and 9' long. Where would one find a strip of aluminum for this purpose? That would be my preference as it would take up less room and certainly it wouldn't get sawn accidently (by others or by me) as well as not being subject to moisture. (Of course, moisture isn't an issue 100 miles inland from the ocean!) Glenna |
#7
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Glenna Rose wrote:
To make the saw guide to cut panels, I had originally planned to use 1xsomething for the guide for the edge of saw (with the pressed hardboard/masonite) flat to the panels with the edge at the cutting line. Is one-inch stock necessary, or can I use another piece of the 1/4" hardboard? (1/4" hardboard on 1/4" hardboard for a 1/2" thick, in theory, for the edge of the saw guide to travel along) My apologies if that is worded badly, but am hoping you folks know what I mean. The question comes up because, while my old Craftsman circular saw body would easily clear the one-inch, the new one doesn't have as much clearance between the body and the guide. I'm definitely glad I checked it *before* I built the guide; building it once works much better than re-building. Glenna... I'd like to offer another perspective. The distance from the left edge of the saw's sole plate will vary slightly from blade to blade (even on the same saw), so I use a straightedge guide the saw; and I use an offset "block" - cut with the same blade I'm using on the saw - to offset the guide from the cut line. You can see this method in use about mid-page at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/outfeed.html. The advantage to this approach has been that I can switch blades whenever it's convenient without worrying about variation in blades. It's been a lot less hassle. After using this approach for a number of years I finally broke down and bought an aluminum straightedge with clamps that can be adjusted along a track on the underside - which means that there's nothing to obstruct the saw motor on the topside. I've been really pleased with this setup. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html |
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