Anyone have these issues laying about. In the Oct. issue there was a couple
formula's for calculating cove cuts on the table saw, pg. 60. The author was
using Excel spreadsheet. I am trying to use MS Works and was successful with
the second formula for fence angle, however the 1st formula for slot length
don't compute. Was wondering if there was a correction in either Nov. or
Dec. issue. No luck tonite getting to the Journal's web site.The formula in
the mag is: =2*SQRT(25-SUMSQ(5-A2)) if that helps. Thanks.

--
Paul O.

Paul O. wrote:

Anyone have these issues laying about. In the Oct. issue there was a couple
formula's for calculating cove cuts on the table saw, pg. 60. The author was
using Excel spreadsheet. I am trying to use MS Works and was successful with
the second formula for fence angle, however the 1st formula for slot length
don't compute. Was wondering if there was a correction in either Nov. or
Dec. issue. No luck tonite getting to the Journal's web site.The formula in
the mag is: =2*SQRT(25-SUMSQ(5-A2)) if that helps. Thanks.



Fine woodworking has an on line version here.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw030.asp

Rick

"RKG" wrote in message
...
Paul O. wrote:

Anyone have these issues laying about. In the Oct. issue there was a
couple
formula's for calculating cove cuts on the table saw, pg. 60. The author
was
using Excel spreadsheet. I am trying to use MS Works and was successful
with
the second formula for fence angle, however the 1st formula for slot
length
don't compute. Was wondering if there was a correction in either Nov. or
Dec. issue. No luck tonite getting to the Journal's web site.The formula
in the mag is: =2*SQRT(25-SUMSQ(5-A2)) if that helps. Thanks.


Fine woodworking has an on line version here.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw030.asp

Rick

Thanks Rick. From a couple other sites I have gotten I don't think what I
wanted to do is possible. I wanted a 4 1/2" wide X 1/4" deep cove in a 5"
wide board. May have to figure out something else that I can do for design
with router bits I have.
--
Paul O.

I needed some (approx) 4 inch wide oak cove oak a few weeks ago -
making a mantle shelf. I could not find a local source, so I decided to
try to make my own on the TS using some 1 x 6 oak from HD. I remember
seeing the article that you mentioned, but I'm more of a show-me type
of person when it comes to woodworking. I had never tried this before.

I used some scraps of plywood and ran a few test pieces through at
different angles until I came up with what I wanted.

It worked out fine except for a couple of caveats. The wider the
cove, the more passes (and effort) needed to maintain a consistent
profile. Also, I was not expecting to have to sand the molding as
much as I did to remove the saw kerfs (I used a 60 tooth blade).
Made the passes very slowly too.

I also made some 1.5 inch cove which was a snap compared to the
bigger stuff.

In the future, I have no reservations about doing this again. You save
a lot of $ (especially with the bigger sizes) and get the exact width
that you want.

Lou



In article , Paul O.
wrote:

"RKG" wrote in message
...
Paul O. wrote:

Anyone have these issues laying about. In the Oct. issue there was a
couple
formula's for calculating cove cuts on the table saw, pg. 60. The author
was
using Excel spreadsheet. I am trying to use MS Works and was successful
with
the second formula for fence angle, however the 1st formula for slot
length
don't compute. Was wondering if there was a correction in either Nov. or
Dec. issue. No luck tonite getting to the Journal's web site.The formula
in the mag is: =2*SQRT(25-SUMSQ(5-A2)) if that helps. Thanks.


Fine woodworking has an on line version here.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw030.asp

Rick

Thanks Rick. From a couple other sites I have gotten I don't think what I
wanted to do is possible. I wanted a 4 1/2" wide X 1/4" deep cove in a 5"
wide board. May have to figure out something else that I can do for design
with router bits I have.

Hi Paul O,

I've seen a jig online that can help calculate cove width etc. Of
course, I've hunted but can't find it now. So I drew up a crude drawing
on MSPaint as a gif image here
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/g...coveangles.GIF

I've never used the jig but here's my theory. Anybody...feel free to
add or correct if needed.

What you do is take 4 sticks (2 blue and 2 green) and attach them so
they fully pivot. A recessed nut and bolt should do the trick. Stick
dimension can be 1/2x1/2 or 3/4x3/4, doesn't matter. I would use
1/2x1/2 for mine. I'll explain why later. You'll probably not make a
single cove molding any wider than maybe 6 inches so the max width
between the two blue sticks will be about 6 inches. So the green sticks
will be about 7 inches, giving extra room for attaching the green to
the blue. You get the idea.

For your example of a 1/4 inch deep by 4-1/2 inch wide cove, first set
the balde height to 1/4 inch. Then open up the jig and position it on
the tablesaw as shown in the picture. Bring the blue sticks to the
cutting tips of the blade. Next rotate the jig clockwise until the
distance between the two blue sticks is 4-1/2 inches. This is the angle
you will use. Then proceed with the normal start of making coves on the
tablesaw.

I would use blue sticks that are 1/2 in width. Once I have my angle
figured out, I'd clamp two straightedges on either side of the jig,
then remove the jig. The distance between the two straighedges is 5-1/2
inches. I'll now pass a 5-1/2 inch board to make my cove molding. If
5-1/2 is too wide for the install, no big deal. I can always trim it up
to the specs I need after I'm done.

Oh yes, cut more than you need...just in case. :-)

Hope that helps.
Woodwork Safely,
Jim Barry
http://www.woodchuckcanuck.com

Hi Paul O,

I've seen a jig online that can help calculate cove width etc. Of
course, I've hunted but can't find it now. So I drew up a crude drawing
on MSPaint as a gif image here
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/g...coveangles.GIF

I've never used the jig but here's my theory. Anybody...feel free to
add or correct if needed.

What you do is take 4 sticks (2 blue and 2 green) and attach them so
they fully pivot. A recessed nut and bolt should do the trick. Stick
dimension can be 1/2x1/2 or 3/4x3/4, doesn't matter. I would use
1/2x1/2 for mine. I'll explain why later. You'll probably not make a
single cove molding any wider than maybe 6 inches so the max width
between the two blue sticks will be about 6 inches. So the green sticks
will be about 7 inches, giving extra room for attaching the green to
the blue. You get the idea.

For your example of a 1/4 inch deep by 4-1/2 inch wide cove, first set
the balde height to 1/4 inch. Then open up the jig and position it on
the tablesaw as shown in the picture. Bring the blue sticks to the
cutting tips of the blade. Next rotate the jig clockwise until the
distance between the two blue sticks is 4-1/2 inches. This is the angle
you will use. Then proceed with the normal start of making coves on the
tablesaw.

I would use blue sticks that are 1/2 in width. Once I have my angle
figured out, I'd clamp two straightedges on either side of the jig,
then remove the jig. The distance between the two straighedges is 5-1/2
inches. I'll now pass a 5-1/2 inch board to make my cove molding. If
5-1/2 is too wide for the install, no big deal. I can always trim it up
to the specs I need after I'm done.

Oh yes, cut more than you need...just in case. :-)

Hope that helps.
Woodwork Safely,
Jim Barry
http://www.woodchuckcanuck.com