I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?


Wayne

I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found
that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is the
best blade I have ever used.
max

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?


Wayne

"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
news:eg4td.55319 Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest
quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?



CALL FORREST... They will build and grind the teeth on a blade just about
any way you would want it.

"max" wrote in message
...
I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found
that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is
the
best blade I have ever used.
max


Except that it leaves a "V" bottom and the OP wants a flat bottom. Check
the last sentence in the first paragraph.

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?


Wayne



you likely will have to have it made. it's no big deal, and the cost
will not be as bad as you think. look first for a local sharpening
shop near you. if your town doesn't have one or they don't get it
about building blades like that, look on the web.

They will grind your blade any way you want.


"max" wrote in message
...
I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found
that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is
the
best blade I have ever used.
max


Except that it leaves a "V" bottom and the OP wants a flat bottom. Check
the last sentence in the first paragraph.

NoOne N Particular wrote:

snipped

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

I would think a good sharpening service should be able to grind and set the
teeth any way you'd like?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Surprised no one has suggested using the end blades form a dado set like the
Freud 508. It has two 8" x 1/8" outer blades that leave a nice flat-bottom
groove and I use those. You may not need or want an 8" dado set so drop
back to the Freud (or whoever) 6" set and you'll have solved the problem and
end up with a nice dado set at the same time.

Bob S.


"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
. com...
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from
24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all
of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them
leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I
have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found
so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that
would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80)
and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre
joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but
good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?


Wayne

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?

It's been a good long while since I worked in the sharpening business,
but you might talk to your local sharpening service about the "triple
chip" style blades. They're basically an alternating tooth set where
the high tooth has the corners knocked off at 45 degrees on each side,
and the low tooth (.01" lower) is flat. While that's not going to
give you a *perfectly* flat-bottomed kerf, it'd be a lot closer than
the standard crosscut tooth set. IIRC, these saws were for mitre
cuts, but like I said, you'd want to talk to your local sharpening
service before jumping on it- they make the suckers for a living, so
they're usually a fount of information.



Wayne


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?


Wayne

one side of a dado set?

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 20:52:29 -0600, Prometheus
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?

It's been a good long while since I worked in the sharpening business,
but you might talk to your local sharpening service about the "triple
chip" style blades. They're basically an alternating tooth set where
the high tooth has the corners knocked off at 45 degrees on each side,
and the low tooth (.01" lower) is flat. While that's not going to
give you a *perfectly* flat-bottomed kerf, it'd be a lot closer than
the standard crosscut tooth set. IIRC, these saws were for mitre
cuts, but like I said, you'd want to talk to your local sharpening
service before jumping on it- they make the suckers for a living, so
they're usually a fount of information.



Wayne


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
I think HF calls that a "novelty" blade...

In article ,
NoOne N Particular wrote:
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?


Wayne



If you have a decent sharpening service in your area, you can have
them grind an ATB/raker combination blade so all the teeth including
the rakers are the same height. I'm just guessing here that this will
give better results than having all the teeth on an ATB or general
purpose blade ground flat accross the top.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Charlie Self wrote:
Freud has a flat top grind raker blade in some
of their LU84 series blades.

Now that you bring this up, can someone please shed some light on their
different series'

I have a Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade on my table
saw and love it.

I also have a 12" Freud Diablo for my Bosch CMS and a 7 1/4" on one of
my circular saws. They are both very solid performers.

I also have a Forrest WWII thin kerf which I have yet to use.

I have searched for rip blades and crosscut blades and have shopped
what seems like dozens of different red, chrome, black, metal colored,
etc. Freud blades. They seem to be all over the place in pricing. In
shopping for Freud blades, what is the pecking order in the different
series? I don't suppose that I want to put a Diablo on my table saw.
Any light on the subject would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric T

Now that you bring this up, can someone please shed some light on their
different series'

I have a Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade on my table
saw and love it.

I also have a 12" Freud Diablo for my Bosch CMS and a 7 1/4" on one of
my circular saws. They are both very solid performers.

I also have a Forrest WWII thin kerf which I have yet to use.

I have searched for rip blades and crosscut blades and have shopped
what seems like dozens of different red, chrome, black, metal colored,
etc. Freud blades. They seem to be all over the place in pricing. In
shopping for Freud blades, what is the pecking order in the different
series? I don't suppose that I want to put a Diablo on my table saw.
Any light on the subject would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric T

Since you already have a Forrest WWII, why not put it on the saw and be done
with it?

-j

Eric T asks:

Now that you bring this up, can someone please shed some light on their
different series'

I have a Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade on my table
saw and love it.

I also have a 12" Freud Diablo for my Bosch CMS and a 7 1/4" on one of
my circular saws. They are both very solid performers.

I also have a Forrest WWII thin kerf which I have yet to use.

I have searched for rip blades and crosscut blades and have shopped
what seems like dozens of different red, chrome, black, metal colored,
etc. Freud blades. They seem to be all over the place in pricing. In
shopping for Freud blades, what is the pecking order in the different
series? I don't suppose that I want to put a Diablo on my table saw.
Any light on the subject would be appreciated.

Best bet: check www.freudtools.com and look over the woodworking and contractor
grade blades.

The Diablo will work decently on a table saw, but IME, it's not made for that.
You're better off with one of the other series. I've got a couple of their
Premium series blades, which I find fantastic. I've got the 12" Hyper waiting
for the blade on my Bosch 4412 SCMS to wear down a bit, but so far that looks
like outlasting me.

Charlie Self
"Vote: the instrument and symbol of a freeman's power to make a fool of himself
and a wreck of his country." Ambrose Bierce

Thanks Charlie. I'll check it out at freudtools. I've been trying to
figure it out from Amazon. Price doesn't seem to be the answer. FWIW, I
also love their router bits.

Eric

As I said, I haven't used it yet. I wasn't too gung ho on getting the
thin kerf, but thats all they had in stock and I had a coupon only good
that weekend. It was a good deal. I might see if they'll swap it when a
regular kerf comes in. Otherwise, I'm gonna buy their stabilizer.

Basically, its just too damn cold and my garage is just too overcrowded
to get any more projects in this winter. Therefore, I don't think that
I'm gonna find out how I like it for a while.

I do like the Freud combo. However, it isn't the greatest for ripping
through Oak. I think that I would like to get a good rip blade to hog
through it. I probably don't really need a crosscut blade as the Freud
works great. I assume that the Forrest will too. I'm also assuming that
it won't be the greatest at ripping.

Eric

On Tue, 07 Dec 2004 07:33:54 GMT, mac davis
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 20:52:29 -0600, Prometheus
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?

It's been a good long while since I worked in the sharpening business,
but you might talk to your local sharpening service about the "triple
chip" style blades. They're basically an alternating tooth set where
the high tooth has the corners knocked off at 45 degrees on each side,
and the low tooth (.01" lower) is flat. While that's not going to
give you a *perfectly* flat-bottomed kerf, it'd be a lot closer than
the standard crosscut tooth set. IIRC, these saws were for mitre
cuts, but like I said, you'd want to talk to your local sharpening
service before jumping on it- they make the suckers for a living, so
they're usually a fount of information.



Wayne


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
I think HF calls that a "novelty" blade...

They may call them that, but Cadillac used to use them to saw aluminum
intake manifolds, so I imagine they're fairly functional.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.

I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.

I made a long search for a truly flat top blade about a year ago and what I
found is that if that is what I really wanted I would have to have it
made/altered. I am having a brain freeze at the moment but I think you
want a "box joint" blade. I vaguely recall in my research that one company
rep told me that "no one" actually makes one anymore because they have
added anti-kickback/clearing attributes to every blade.

As Leon noted, Forrest will do that for you -- and I did check with them
and the prices was not so much more than their off-the-shelf blades. A
digression about Forrest: I sent them a few blades to sharpen and they
called to say that one was not really dull. I figured it was already there
so I had them sharpen it anyway, even though the difference would be
marginal.

You might try CMT blades. You say that 24 teeth are not enough, but if you
reconsider you might try this:
http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtrip.htm

I am not sure what the final result is on this other CMT blade, but you can
call the store and ask. (When I was researching, I found them helpful.)
http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtcab.htm Here is the description:
"The 10" x 60 Tooth CMT Cabinetshop Blade is sure to become a "standard" in
the shop. The CMT Cabinetshop Blade, with alternating Triple Chip - Flat
Top Grind and deeper gullet design, allows you to rip or crosscut with
splinter free results in both hard and soft wood. Performs well also in
laminates and plywood. The all-around performance of the CMT Cabinetshop
Blade guarantees it will be an excellent value in a shop of any size." Not
sure if this is what the wrec god Prometheus was referring to. HTH. --
Igor

Thanks to all who responded to my query. It sounds like I will just have to
have a sharpening service custom grind one for me. I have a couple of
responses to some of you.

1. A couple suggested using the outside blade of a dado set. I have an
SD208 and the outside blades are not flat. They are all bevelled downwards
from the outside edge towards the center.

2. A couple suggested the triple chip grind. AKA TCG which I have. It is
actually that grind that prompted me to ask the question. I had cut some
mortices with my new Delta morticer (the little cheap one that I got for $90
at a Lowes). I cut the tenons on my table saw and when I was fitting the
tenons into the mortices, they didn't quite seat all the way. It was just a
hair off (red, not blond), but enough. When I examined the tenons, I
noticed that there were very slight ridges along the sides of the tenon
where the TCG blade did not clean the cut. It was easy enough to clean up
with a chisel, but still . . . Now cross-cuts where I am cutting off the
piece, TCG is great.

Just as a side note, I have read a couple of articles on the Internet that
says the TCG was initially designed for cutting plastics like plexiglas and
lexan, etc.

3. Have someone like Forrest custom grind a new blade? That would be
GREAT, but not on my current budget.

4. CMT Cabinetshop blade. Hmmmmm. That sounds interesting.

Wayne




"Nova" wrote in message
...
NoOne N Particular wrote:

snipped

I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found
so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that
would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80)
and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre
joints,
etc.

I would think a good sharpening service should be able to grind and set
the
teeth any way you'd like?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)