Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

Hi Sean,

Wow - that's a big project!

As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If I were doing this, I would definitely pay the lumber supplier to
trim the plywood/MDF/Melamine sheets down to the approximate width you
need. I would also try to do a lot of the finishing before assembly.

Good luck!

Lou

In article , S. Dees
wrote:

Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

"loutent" wrote in message
...
: Hi Sean,
:
: Wow - that's a big project!
:
: As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
: to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
: degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
: use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
: constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
: it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
: You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.
:
[snip]

Why couldn't you use the metal tracks on the side and put the front into a
higher slot on the track than the back one? Hey, I'm not recommending
this! I'm just asking! But if that would work then you could stand a
wedge shaped board on the back of each of the 50,000,000 shelves - phew.
My mind goes "Boing" just thinking of making all those shelves!

Josie

In article , says...
As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
need any wedges, the supports would rotate.

But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
wedges - you decide.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

There is no way I want to do that much drilling... Let's see now... 50 cases
with an average height of 84. Holes would have to be drilled from 12" to
72". On per inch equals 60 holes per row. Times 4 rows per bookcase is 240
holes. Times 50 bookcases is 12,000 holes!!!! No thank you!
I have also found that the holes tend to wear out over time. The last thing
I want to have to do is redo 12,000 holes in 10 or 15 years....
Thanks for the suggestion though...
Sean.


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
In article , says...
As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
need any wedges, the supports would rotate.

But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
wedges - you decide.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

A local cabinet shop predrilled a bunch of holes for me when I bought
some plywood from them and had them cut it into widths I was going to
be needing. They asked what I was doing with it and when it came out
that I was going to be using a portion for adjustable shelves they
said they had a nifty piece of equipment that would drill the holes in
a snap for a fairly inexpensive cost to me. I gave them the specs and
it worked out great.

Renata


On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:25:41 -0800, "S. Dees"
wrote:

There is no way I want to do that much drilling... Let's see now... 50 cases
with an average height of 84. Holes would have to be drilled from 12" to
72". On per inch equals 60 holes per row. Times 4 rows per bookcase is 240
holes. Times 50 bookcases is 12,000 holes!!!! No thank you!
I have also found that the holes tend to wear out over time. The last thing
I want to have to do is redo 12,000 holes in 10 or 15 years....
Thanks for the suggestion though...
Sean.


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
In article , says...
As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
need any wedges, the supports would rotate.

But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
wedges - you decide.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Using a Router won't work. The shelves need to be adjustable. Making the
front thicker is not a bad idea. Ideally I would prefer to have the back of
the bookcase attached to the sides at a slight angle and running shelf
support rails down the back. (That way it gives it a lot cleaner
appearance.) I'll have to think about it.
Thanks for the suggestion about doing a lot of the finishing before
assembly. That might make it a bit easier.
Thanks!
That's only one of the big projects I have on my plate. I'm looking at
installing a laminate wood floor in the store. (About 3000 square feet!) The
flooring is going to weigh in the neighbourhood of 5000 pounds, and the
nearest retailer of the brand that I want is 5 hours away, and I don't think
I can get it delivered. Guess who is going to be doing the grunt work...

Sean.


"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi Sean,

Wow - that's a big project!

As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If I were doing this, I would definitely pay the lumber supplier to
trim the plywood/MDF/Melamine sheets down to the approximate width you
need. I would also try to do a lot of the finishing before assembly.

Good luck!

Lou

In article , S. Dees
wrote:

Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I
need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that
books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally
fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what
I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases
and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

"S. Dees" wrote in message
...
That's only one of the big projects I have on my plate. I'm looking at
installing a laminate wood floor in the store. (About 3000 square feet!)
The
flooring is going to weigh in the neighbourhood of 5000 pounds, and the
nearest retailer of the brand that I want is 5 hours away, and I don't
think
I can get it delivered. Guess who is going to be doing the grunt work...


Sean.



No trucking/shipping compnies in your area?
Greg

Here in SF there are shops that can do things for you to save you time and
money. When we had a big job, we sometimes sent out panels for edge banding.
We had a job to make 17 cabinets with tons of shelving so paying a guy to
edge band save us 2 days.
There are shops that have CNC routers, panel saws and other tools beyond our
reach that will help you. You can buy prefinished maple ply or apple ply and
then have one of these shops cut it and edgeband it for you. You can
actually use apple ply without edgebanding for a nice look.
As for plans, it seems pretty straightforward. You can design you case
bringing the bottom shelf up an inch or so from the bottom edge of the sides
and then cut the bottom edge at a 2 or 3 degree slant and then cleat the top
of the case to the wall.
Or you can make a jig and make hundreds of dado cuts at an angle. You might
also be able to farm out the dado cuts to a CNC shop (angled or straight).
max

Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

I never thought about contracting out doing the edge banding on the shelves.
That's a fantastic idea! I've done a bit of banding in the past, and have
never been 100% satisfied with the results. I was thinking about attaching a
piece of trim to the front of the shelves, but the cost of 1000 feet of 1"
trim would probably be much more expensive and certainly much more time
consuming than just farming out the job.
I don't know of any shops that do that sort of stuff in the Vancouver,
Canada area, but that's what the Yellow Pages are for...
I think you might be right about building a standard bookcase and then
"trimming" an inch off the back bottom edge to provide the angle and then
using a cleat at the top to hold it against the wall. That sounds like the
best idea I have heard so far.
Thanks!
Sean


"max" wrote in message
...
Here in SF there are shops that can do things for you to save you time and
money. When we had a big job, we sometimes sent out panels for edge
banding.
We had a job to make 17 cabinets with tons of shelving so paying a guy to
edge band save us 2 days.
There are shops that have CNC routers, panel saws and other tools beyond
our
reach that will help you. You can buy prefinished maple ply or apple ply
and
then have one of these shops cut it and edgeband it for you. You can
actually use apple ply without edgebanding for a nice look.
As for plans, it seems pretty straightforward. You can design you case
bringing the bottom shelf up an inch or so from the bottom edge of the
sides
and then cut the bottom edge at a 2 or 3 degree slant and then cleat the
top
of the case to the wall.
Or you can make a jig and make hundreds of dado cuts at an angle. You
might
also be able to farm out the dado cuts to a CNC shop (angled or straight).
max

Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I
need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that
books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally
fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what
I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases
and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 00:50:19 -0800, "S. Dees"
wrote:

Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.


no source of plans, but for something like a bookshelf, do you really
need them?
It's a box with shelf supports, right??

I'd draw one out, for a material list, then figure the shelves...
find a good supplier of the material that you want to use and have
them precut the parts...
Most places do at least 2 cuts per sheet free, and if you're buying
material for FIFTY bookcases, they should give you a good price on
material and make any 4' or 8' cuts that you need..

I'd set up a table saw with a good dado set and build a crosscut sled
for it with the angle you want built into the sled.. YMMV

S. Dees wrote:
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.



I'd try to see one in person. It appears thet the shelves are 90°
to the front and the bottom is angled so the books lean back.
Kind of like taking a normal square bookshelf and putting it on a
toekick that pitches it back. That should be much simpler to make
Joe

Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 12:50am (EST-3) (S.=A0Dees)
makes his claim that:
snip (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books that are
stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.) snip

Yep, if you don't slope those books, they'll leap right oout at ya.

You must be from a different part of the universe than I'm from.
I've never heard of that. And, apparenly none of the bookstores,
schools, libraries, or anywhere else I've ever been has. If the shelves
are level, and the books not hanging out way over the edge, they have no
reason to fall out. Who told you that? Of course, you could be
another one of those dull little trolls too.



JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus

J T wrote:
S.*Dees makes his claim that:

snip (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books that are
stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.) snip

Yep, if you don't slope those books, they'll leap right oout at ya.

You must be from a different part of the universe than I'm from.
I've never heard of that. And, apparenly none of the bookstores,
schools, libraries, or anywhere else I've ever been has. If the shelves
are level, and the books not hanging out way over the edge, they have no
reason to fall out. Who told you that? Of course, you could be
another one of those dull little trolls too.

Most library books are arranged with the spines facing out,
supported by adjacent books or a bookend. I think that the OP wants to
arrange the books with the front cover facing out for display
purposes. If that's the case, angling the book backwards, with a cleat
to keep the bottom of the book from sliding forward, would be a good
idea. If the shelf is below eye level, tilting the book back would
also make for better viewing.

R,
Tom Q.

I have never seen a library or school do it either, but then again they
generally don't try to display the front covers as much as bookstores do.
Most of the NEW bookstores that I have been in generally do that for all the
shelves packed along the wall. It allows a greater amount of visibility for
the book covers, and as Tom said, tilting it back on the bottom shelves also
allow them more visibility from above.
I have never seen any cleats on the front of the shelves.... Gravity tends
to keep the books from sliding forward.
Sean

"Tom Quackenbush" wrote in message
...
J T wrote:
S. Dees makes his claim that:

snip (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books that are
stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.) snip

Yep, if you don't slope those books, they'll leap right oout at ya.

You must be from a different part of the universe than I'm from.
I've never heard of that. And, apparenly none of the bookstores,
schools, libraries, or anywhere else I've ever been has. If the shelves
are level, and the books not hanging out way over the edge, they have no
reason to fall out. Who told you that? Of course, you could be
another one of those dull little trolls too.

Most library books are arranged with the spines facing out,
supported by adjacent books or a bookend. I think that the OP wants to
arrange the books with the front cover facing out for display
purposes. If that's the case, angling the book backwards, with a cleat
to keep the bottom of the book from sliding forward, would be a good
idea. If the shelf is below eye level, tilting the book back would
also make for better viewing.

R,
Tom Q.

Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 9:35pm
(Tom=A0Quackenbush) says:
snip I think that the OP wants to arrange the books with the front
cover facing out for display purposes. snip

Missed that part. He'd be using up a lot of valuable shelf space
that way. I'd think if he wants to do it that way Larry's idea would be
about the best solution. I thinik I'd opt for just putting them in with
the spine out, get more books on the shelves that way, then just title
each section of shelves.

I don't know that I've seen any bookstores with shelves with covers
facing out. They've all been with the spine out. However, they do have
stands and/or tables with books displayed with covers up. I think that
would be a much more reasonable way - most of the books in the shelves,
and "specials", or whatever, on tables and/or stands. That way you
could move the tables and stands around to various parts of the store
too.



JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus

Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 12:50am (EST-3) (S.=A0Dees)
also claims:
snip The shelves also need to be adjustable. snip

This hit me just as I hit send: Why? You plan on shifting your
books around on a regular basis? So, then you'll need to adjust shelf
height? That's a lot of work. I don't recall any bookstores, or
libraries, that have adjusable shelves, unless they bought the prefabbed
type. And, even then, I don't recall any of them changing books, and
shelves, around. May cost more too. However, it's your money, your
time, your labor.

But, if it was me, I'd be worrying about making sure the bookcases
wouldn't fall over, if someone pulled on them, a kid wanted to climb
them, etc., rather than worrying about books falling out because the
shelves aren't "sloped", or adjustable.



JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus

"S. Dees" wrote in message ...
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

Sean ,adjustable and slope are easy. Tapered hardwood cleat with steel
5/16" metal rods at each end. The cleats are bored 1/2" deep for 1"x
5/16" diameter rods. Case sides bored similarly. You need to bore the
sides of the case the same way you would for store bought shelf clips.
You probably use 1/4" steel or brass, I suggested 5/16" because that's
what I did a number of years ago.
If the rods fit snug into the tapered cleats then no need to epoxy
them. Bolts could be used too, counterbore cleat for a plug.

mike

"S. Dees" wrote in message
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

Have you done any woodworking at all? If not, it may be cheaper to have
them built in a production shop. If you have, why do you need plans? The
simple sketch on the Franklin web page gives the dimensions. A few minutes
with paper and pencil and you have a plan and materials list. For instance,
the 84" tapered single has a side that is 84" high. Since it is 18" deep,
you could cut the sides, oh say, 18 x 84. Go to a bookstore and take a
ruler with you for more detail.

My point is, if you have the skills to make them from plans, you have the
skills to make a simple sketch and do it. If you don't have the skills (or
tools), it may be better to have the done for you. Use the skills you do
have to make money to pay for it. A sheet of plywood ($50) will yield the
two sizes and three shelves. You need a back and four more shelves.
Material cost for the wood, edge banding, shelf pins, screws, glue, etc. is
about $125. Then add the finish of two or three coats of urethane. That
$295 is not so bad now when you factor in labor.

The prices from Franklin don't seem to be out of line at all. Freight will
be a big factor though. Check that out before you commit to anything. I'd
do them for you but I'd have to charge every bit of $300, probably more.

I have done a fair bit of woodworking before. I was hoping for some plans to
just help me with the shelf angle issue. I've gotten a few very helpful
suggestions from this group so far, and I think I have enough information to
make a "prototype" to see how it works out. (I can always use an extra 1 or
2 bookcases at home if they aren't perfect.)
At $300 per bookcase that works out to $15,000 - $18,000 for 50 or 60
bookcases. Plus tax. Plus shipping. And that is assuming that I can find
someone in Canada that can do it for the same price as Franklin does it in
the USA. I have 6 - 8 months before the grand opening of my store, and no
other work to fill up my time until then. If I can save $5000 - $10,000 by
doing it myself, that would be the best way to go.
Sean

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:wItmd.7298$063.1375@trndny03...

"S. Dees" wrote in message
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what
I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases
and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

Have you done any woodworking at all? If not, it may be cheaper to have
them built in a production shop. If you have, why do you need plans? The
simple sketch on the Franklin web page gives the dimensions. A few
minutes
with paper and pencil and you have a plan and materials list. For
instance,
the 84" tapered single has a side that is 84" high. Since it is 18" deep,
you could cut the sides, oh say, 18 x 84. Go to a bookstore and take a
ruler with you for more detail.

My point is, if you have the skills to make them from plans, you have the
skills to make a simple sketch and do it. If you don't have the skills
(or
tools), it may be better to have the done for you. Use the skills you do
have to make money to pay for it. A sheet of plywood ($50) will yield
the
two sizes and three shelves. You need a back and four more shelves.
Material cost for the wood, edge banding, shelf pins, screws, glue, etc.
is
about $125. Then add the finish of two or three coats of urethane. That
$295 is not so bad now when you factor in labor.

The prices from Franklin don't seem to be out of line at all. Freight
will
be a big factor though. Check that out before you commit to anything.
I'd
do them for you but I'd have to charge every bit of $300, probably more.

"S. Dees" wrote in message
...
I have done a fair bit of woodworking before. I was hoping for some plans
to
just help me with the shelf angle issue. I've gotten a few very helpful
suggestions from this group so far, and I think I have enough information
to
make a "prototype" to see how it works out. (I can always use an extra 1
or
2 bookcases at home if they aren't perfect.)
At $300 per bookcase that works out to $15,000 - $18,000 for 50 or 60
bookcases. Plus tax. Plus shipping. And that is assuming that I can find
someone in Canada that can do it for the same price as Franklin does it in
the USA. I have 6 - 8 months before the grand opening of my store, and no
other work to fill up my time until then. If I can save $5000 - $10,000 by
doing it myself, that would be the best way to go.
Sean

It looks to me that all they are doing is making the ends tapered and the
shelves are a uniform depth from the front and square to the front edge. The
back is probably set in a dado that is parallel to the front. I wouldn't be
surprised to find that they have heavy duty shelf standards on the ends, set
in dados, to support the adjustable shelves. Perhaps you can get a good
volume discount on the shelf standards and clips to make it pay off? They
look pretty straight forward to make... if you really want to that is!

John

"S. Dees" wrote in message ...
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

Piece of cake......call your local KV hardware rep. They have the
hardware needed for angled shelves. They are adjustable to about any
angle needed.
50 bookcases is a BIG job! Good luck.

Mike from American Sycamore

"S. Dees" wrote in message ...
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

You may find help at www.bricomagic.com.

You can get free plans for custom-made furniture.

Regards

S. Dees

Woodsmith magazine Vol 18/No 108 has plans for what they call a "Children's
Bookcase". It provides shelves that are tilted back so things don't fall.
The dimensions are off for what you need but the concept is adaptable.
Basically what you use are four "L shaped shelf support with holes." The
front supports are put in place and screwed into the front of the shelf
board. The back of the shelf is allowed to pivot down until it hits the
back shelf supports which are placed lower than the front thereby providing
the backward tilt to the shelf. In the plan there is no back to the case
but each shelf has a back board attached to it. That may not be necessary
but probably useful to prevent an upper book from falling behind the shelf
onto a lower bookshelf if the books are pushed back. Since the shelf can
pivot, from flat to inclined, it may help with your display allowing you to
change it as needed.

Happy building!

Thanks for the suggestion.
Sean
"Jack Casuso" wrote in message
t...
S. Dees

Woodsmith magazine Vol 18/No 108 has plans for what they call a
"Children's
Bookcase". It provides shelves that are tilted back so things don't fall.
The dimensions are off for what you need but the concept is adaptable.
Basically what you use are four "L shaped shelf support with holes." The
front supports are put in place and screwed into the front of the shelf
board. The back of the shelf is allowed to pivot down until it hits the
back shelf supports which are placed lower than the front thereby
providing
the backward tilt to the shelf. In the plan there is no back to the case
but each shelf has a back board attached to it. That may not be necessary
but probably useful to prevent an upper book from falling behind the shelf
onto a lower bookshelf if the books are pushed back. Since the shelf can
pivot, from flat to inclined, it may help with your display allowing you
to
change it as needed.

Happy building!

"S. Dees" wrote in message ...
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

Look at www.bricomagic.com

You will find really free plans for custom-made furniture.

Regards

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 00:50:19 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?

Heck, that's easy. Just make a standard bookshelf and whack
half an inch of the bottom in the back. Back two of them up
to each other and they won't fall over.

I've never seen a tapered bookshelf plan, Sean. Have you asked
any bookstores where they purchased theirs? I'll bet most are
custom built by local carpenters.


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When explaining the project and all of your suggestions to my wife, I found
a small problem with one type of solution that seems to work at first
glance, yet has a major drawback....

The solution types with a problem are as follows:
Some people have suggested either tapering the shelves so that they are
thicker at the front than the back. Others have suggested putting the shelf
support pins one notch up at the front. And others have suggested putting a
wedge or cleat under the front part of the shelf.

Now those are all great suggestions for if I was going to be displaying all
the books with the front covers of the books facing towards the front, but
this solution has a major drawback for the rest of the books that are
stacked in the traditional way with the edges facing forward. The problem is
that all the books stacked traditionally will have 1/2" - 1" space at the
bottom of the back of the book. (Due to the shelves not being 90 degrees
from the back of the bookcase. The shelves would actually only be about 80
degrees) This will cause damage to the books at the top of the book. (They
would have a tendency to have bent corners and damage the edges.)

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to mount
the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Thanks, Sean.



"S. Dees" wrote in message
...
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that
books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally
fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

And others have suggested putting a
wedge or cleat under the front part of the shelf.

Could you not just use horizontal shelves but rout a small groove parallel
to, and set slightly back from, the front edge of each one, similar to the
grooves found on some shelves that are used for displaying plates and
platters?

Lee



--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

That's not a bad idea. It would be fine if I was wanting to display just one
hardcover book. It wouldn't be damaged from leaning back like that. The
usual way of displaying books in a new bookstore in our area is to display
about half the shelf with the spine facing outwards. (The traditional way of
putting books in a bookcase.) And the other half, mostly new release books &
popular books, stacked 3 or 4 deep with the front covers facing out. If you
only put a single paperback in the groove, rather than 3 or 4 in a stack
facing out, I think it would tend to bend the top right corner of the book
and damage it. (It would be put at a 20 to 30 degree angle and the softer
right side of the book would sag, while the spine stayed stiff.) If you
stacked them 3 or 4 deep so there wouldn't be such an angle and sag, then
when someone takes the first book in the pile the 2nd one might fall forward
if someone picked it up and put it back carelessly.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Sean.



"Lee Gordon" wrote in message
...
And others have suggested putting a
wedge or cleat under the front part of the shelf.

Could you not just use horizontal shelves but rout a small groove
parallel
to, and set slightly back from, the front edge of each one, similar to the
grooves found on some shelves that are used for displaying plates and
platters?

Lee



--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

OK, how about this. Since you plan to display some books the "normal" way
and some face out, why not build regular bookshelves and then make a supply
of book-width wedges. Then, whereever you wish to to display a book with
the cover facing out, you slide one of the wedges under that column of books
so that they will be tilted back at the desired angle.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

S. Dees wrote:
[snip]

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far
is to just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that
the shelf actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into
the wall to mount the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger
cleat at the bottom so that the bookcase couldn't be pushed
backwards at the bottom.)

[snip]

So what you are going to end up with is *almost* equal to a ladder? See

http://www.spacestation42.com/Shops/shelving.html

You'll have to go down the page a little but there are several examples.

You'd keep the angle you wanted for the books by slicing a 10 degree wedge
shaped piece off the top back edges (maybe 10" on the hypotenuse) and
adding the same wedge to the front bottom of the bookcase. Lose a little
shop space because each bookcase would stick further out into the walkways
than usual but maybe feel less looming and clostrophobic to the customer.

Works on a strip of paper!

Josie

Those ladder shelves are the closest I have seen so far. (aside from the
Franklin website that I noted earlier). I would just have to adjust the
shelves so that they are slightly angled to allow the books to lean back,
and then put a back on the case.
Thanks for the link.
Sean.
"firstjois" wrote in message
...
S. Dees wrote:
[snip]

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far
is to just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that
the shelf actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into
the wall to mount the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger
cleat at the bottom so that the bookcase couldn't be pushed
backwards at the bottom.)

[snip]

So what you are going to end up with is *almost* equal to a ladder? See

http://www.spacestation42.com/Shops/shelving.html

You'll have to go down the page a little but there are several examples.

You'd keep the angle you wanted for the books by slicing a 10 degree wedge
shaped piece off the top back edges (maybe 10" on the hypotenuse) and
adding the same wedge to the front bottom of the bookcase. Lose a little
shop space because each bookcase would stick further out into the walkways
than usual but maybe feel less looming and clostrophobic to the customer.

Works on a strip of paper!

Josie

S. Dees wrote:

Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Here is one suggestion I have not seen, though I may have missed
it in all the various posts. Cut the sides with a 90 degree
angle at the back and bottom corner, but angle the front edge
slightly toward the top. Then route grooves into the inside
of the sides parallel to the front edge. Also route a rabbet
at the back parallel to the front edge (note this rabbet will
be deeper at the bottom than at the top. Mount the shelf
bracket rails in the grooves and a back panel in the rabbet.
This give you angled shelves, the backpanel is at 90 degrees
to the shelves, and the whole piece stands straight against
a flat (plumb) wall. Assuming the angle is fairly small
this should not be too hard to accomplish, and in fairly
production-line-like fashion.

You will have to angle the top of the toe-kick to match
the angle of the bottom shelf.


Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.

Bingo! I think you have the solution! I hadn't thought of a variable width
rabbet. I always thought of rabbets as being one width along the total
length. That will take a little work setting up the rabbet like you have
described, but it is by far the best solution that I have seen. That would
still allow lots of space for the back to be properly attached to the sides.

Thanks! Sean.

wrote in message ...
S. Dees wrote:

Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Here is one suggestion I have not seen, though I may have missed
it in all the various posts. Cut the sides with a 90 degree
angle at the back and bottom corner, but angle the front edge
slightly toward the top. Then route grooves into the inside
of the sides parallel to the front edge. Also route a rabbet
at the back parallel to the front edge (note this rabbet will
be deeper at the bottom than at the top. Mount the shelf
bracket rails in the grooves and a back panel in the rabbet.
This give you angled shelves, the backpanel is at 90 degrees
to the shelves, and the whole piece stands straight against
a flat (plumb) wall. Assuming the angle is fairly small
this should not be too hard to accomplish, and in fairly
production-line-like fashion.

You will have to angle the top of the toe-kick to match
the angle of the bottom shelf.


Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.

Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 9:02pm (EST-3) (S.=A0Dees) now
says:
snip Now those are all great suggestions for if I was going to be
displaying all the books with the front covers of the books facing
towards the front, but this solution has a major drawback for the rest
of the books that are stacked in the traditional way with the edges
facing forward. snip

Well, Hell, sound like your're leaving details out. I got under
the impression you were going to put "all" the books with their covers
out. Now you say no.

What I'd do then is, make regular book cases. Then make a batch of
little book stands, that would hold a book at a slant, with the cover
out. Then put the stands in the cases wherever you wanted, put the rest
of the books in spine out. Then you could move the stands where you
wanted. Either that or the tables I suggested before. Actually, I'd
probably opt for the tables, less artsy, therefore less of a PITA.
Instant tables - cable spools, covered with a cloth.



JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:15:36 -0500, (J T) wrote:

Well, Hell, sound like your're leaving details out. I got under
the impression you were going to put "all" the books with their covers
out. Now you say no.

What I'd do then is, make regular book cases. Then make a batch of
little book stands, that would hold a book at a slant, with the cover
out. Then put the stands in the cases wherever you wanted, put the rest
of the books in spine out. Then you could move the stands where you
wanted.

Excellent suggestion -- from both practical and aesthetic perspectives. It
is flexible. And, I think it offers a nice way to break up the usual
pattern of books on the shelf.

As for the normally placed books -- spine out -- either slant the base back
_slightly_ or just put 2 sliders underneath the front edges of a standard,
square bookcase. -- Igor

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to mount
the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too. g

What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf
deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves
at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with
space in the middle at the bottom.


Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them)
into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees
ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet
and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.

Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow
topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.

Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for
the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.

If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of
lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.

Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick
disconnect hardware so they're portable.

Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before
you get your stock of books.


Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare,
remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend. scritch, scritch, scritch


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Thanks for the suggestions. It's going to be a new bookstore with a small
coffee bar attached to it. Nice wood floors. Nice bookshelves with lots of
space. I'm looking forward to it. It's going to open late next summer. (I'm
hoping that will give me lots of time to build the bookcases and get
everything ready.) It's going to named the Avid Reader.
Sean
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to
mount
the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too. g

What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf
deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves
at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with
space in the middle at the bottom.


Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them)
into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees
ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet
and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.

Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow
topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.

Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for
the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.

If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of
lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.

Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick
disconnect hardware so they're portable.

Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before
you get your stock of books.


Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare,
remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend. scritch, scritch, scritch


----------------------------------------------------------------
* OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
* meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
* "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 20:50:53 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

Thanks for the suggestions. It's going to be a new bookstore with a small
coffee bar attached to it. Nice wood floors. Nice bookshelves with lots of
space. I'm looking forward to it. It's going to open late next summer. (I'm
hoping that will give me lots of time to build the bookcases and get
everything ready.) It's going to named the Avid Reader.

A coffee bar goes well with a book store. I remember my first trip
to Borders Books in Peñasquitos (North San Diego area) and the treat
it was to hear a duo play and have a good cup of coffee while I
browsed and read the magazine I had just bought.

So what wood and finish have you decided on?
Solid wood or ply with solid edges?

Try a couple coats of Waterlox rubbed out with wax using 0000 steel
wool on the end caps. People will definitely comment on the smooth,
nice, warm feel of the wood, and I think that's what you're after
for the mood of the store. It's quick and easy for touchup, too.

Lacquer might be the best option for the shelves, backs, and inside of
the end caps. It should be safe with all books.

Be sure to stack, pad, and secure all the finished pieces where you
won't have to move them again. Each move is a potential scratch scene.


--
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