I did a Google on aquarium stands, as I'm going to build one into an
entertainment center for the living room. All seemed to rely on massive
amounts of 2x4s.

Seems like the Soviet school of engineering to me :-).

My thought is a normal 4/4 hardwood frame for each side with a torsion
box for a top to prevent sag.

Instead of the torsion box I may just put some angle irons across,
mortised into the sides, and then a 3/4" hardwood plywood top.

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Larry Blanchard woke up and had the following words of wisdom ....:

I did a Google on aquarium stands, as I'm going to build one into an
entertainment center for the living room. All seemed to rely on massive
amounts of 2x4s.

Seems like the Soviet school of engineering to me :-).

My thought is a normal 4/4 hardwood frame for each side with a torsion
box for a top to prevent sag.

Instead of the torsion box I may just put some angle irons across,
mortised into the sides, and then a 3/4" hardwood plywood top.

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

You can do anything you want. Stacking milk crates might be faster, cheaper
and more stable.
JAW

--
Theres a little man in my head, saying things better left unsaid.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
I did a Google on aquarium stands, as I'm going to build one into an
entertainment center for the living room. All seemed to rely on massive
amounts of 2x4s.

Seems like the Soviet school of engineering to me :-).

My thought is a normal 4/4 hardwood frame for each side with a torsion
box for a top to prevent sag.

Instead of the torsion box I may just put some angle irons across,
mortised into the sides, and then a 3/4" hardwood plywood top.

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

Just keep in mind that a freshwater aquarium weighs about 10 pounds per
gallon. Oh wait, what is that in kilos per liter (there's a .de in the
references line)? ... about 4.5 kilos per 3.75 liters. Sal****er setups
weigh a little more per unit (gallon, liter, barrel, whatever). Just try
to keep an even amount of support along the whole length of the tank, as
any sagging in the middle will eventually lead to a wet floor when the
tank either; fractures from uneven stress because of the sag, or the seals
leak because of the warping of the glass.

Depending on how long the tank is, you may want to consider a way of
building in a center leg to prevent any bowing down the middle. The
weight is not the tough part of building an aquarium stand, the problem is
eliminating flex so the tank won't fracture or leak.

Chris

On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 10:11:13 -0800, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

Any comments?

It's pointless to discuss aquaria designs without a rough idea of the
size (particularly depth). They're heavy and they have to be done
right, but the approaches change as the size changes. For an
"entertainment centre" size, almost anything you make is adequate.

A "built in" is usually easy, because you can't see the structure
beneath. It's a little harder for cupboards. The most impressive I've
done was an open frame, based on Japanese temple carpentry.

On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 20:05:50 +0000 (UTC), Chris wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

Just keep in mind that a freshwater aquarium weighs about 10 pounds per
gallon. Oh wait, what is that in kilos per liter (there's a .de in the
references line)? ... about 4.5 kilos per 3.75 liters.

Um. Beg pardon, but by definition, a liter (or litre if you prefer) of
water weighs 1 kilogram. It's also a cube 10 cm per side. The specific
gravity of fresh water is, by definition, 1.000000

Depending on how long the tank is, you may want to consider a way of
building in a center leg to prevent any bowing down the middle. The
weight is not the tough part of building an aquarium stand, the problem is
eliminating flex so the tank won't fracture or leak.

Right. Also, be prepared to shim between the aquarium bottom and the table
top. I found that playing cards work fairly well for this, no idea if they
will get ugly over the years of miscellaneous spills and drips. I'm also
not sure how the table top will look if/when I take the tank off.

Dave "Anyone want to buy a deck of cards that's missing a few?" Hinz

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 20:05:50 +0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

Just keep in mind that a freshwater aquarium weighs about 10 pounds per
gallon. Oh wait, what is that in kilos per liter (there's a .de in the
references line)? ... about 4.5 kilos per 3.75 liters.

Um. Beg pardon, but by definition, a liter (or litre if you prefer) of
water weighs 1 kilogram. It's also a cube 10 cm per side. The specific
gravity of fresh water is, by definition, 1.000000

Depending on how long the tank is, you may want to consider a way of
building in a center leg to prevent any bowing down the middle. The
weight is not the tough part of building an aquarium stand, the problem
is
eliminating flex so the tank won't fracture or leak.

remember that glass aquariums are edge supported. you don't need a middle on
the top. actually, a lot of tanks are drilled in the bottom and having a
middle makes it hard to get to the fittings.

Right. Also, be prepared to shim between the aquarium bottom and the
table
top. I found that playing cards work fairly well for this, no idea if
they
will get ugly over the years of miscellaneous spills and drips. I'm also
not sure how the table top will look if/when I take the tank off.

Dave "Anyone want to buy a deck of cards that's missing a few?" Hinz

use a sheet of 1/2" styrofoam instead of shims.

How big is your aquarium going to be? About 7 years ago, my dad built a
stand for my 75 gal aquarium. It is 3/4 oak frame with cupboards below
the aquarium. There is no top, as the aquarium sits directly on the
frame. It's not quite like an entertainment center, but it does look
nice (much better quality than those cheap MDF stands for sale at pet
stores).

If you'd like, I can post a picture on a.b.p.w.

-Justin

In article ,
says...
use a sheet of 1/2" styrofoam instead of shims.

That I knew. I'm using one now (beadboard) under a 10 gallon that sits
on a countertop.

THe one for the living room will be either a 20 gallon or a 29 gallon,
but the 10 gallon may wind up being stacked on top.

I've even thought of using heavy duty drawer slides (like those for a
TV) so that I can slide the tanks out for working and won't have to
leave as much space above them. Have to look and see if I can find some
with a high enough rating.

What I really needed was another hobby :-).

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

In article ,
says...
How big is your aquarium going to be? About 7 years ago, my dad built a
stand for my 75 gal aquarium. It is 3/4 oak frame with cupboards below
the aquarium. There is no top, as the aquarium sits directly on the
frame. It's not quite like an entertainment center, but it does look
nice (much better quality than those cheap MDF stands for sale at pet
stores).

If you'd like, I can post a picture on a.b.p.w.

I think I can visualize what you're describing, but if it's not too much
trouble, a picture always helps. Or you could email it to me.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

You do not state the size of the tank. Aquarium tanks upto a certain size
are designed to be supported at the ends.

I built a stand for a 90 US gal tank from a TV/VCR centre. This originally
had 3/4in plywood sides and was 2in lacking in depth.

I glued 1x2 oak to the ends to get the depth I wanted, and then dadoed 1x6
oak "wing" extensions at right angles into the ends which are taller than
the ends and go into grooves cut into two 1.5x6 in flat beams which span the
entire length of the tank.

I admit to be nervous when I first filled the tank, but after almost 3
years, it shows no signs of bowing.

The 2x4 frame is overkill for normal use, at least up to 90 gal. Perhaps
this works for "seismic zone 7" design.

Dave Paine.


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
I did a Google on aquarium stands, as I'm going to build one into an
entertainment center for the living room. All seemed to rely on massive
amounts of 2x4s.

Seems like the Soviet school of engineering to me :-).

My thought is a normal 4/4 hardwood frame for each side with a torsion
box for a top to prevent sag.

Instead of the torsion box I may just put some angle irons across,
mortised into the sides, and then a 3/4" hardwood plywood top.

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Dave Hinz wrote:
Chris wrote:
snip
Just keep in mind that a freshwater aquarium weighs about 10 pounds per
gallon. Oh wait, what is that in kilos per liter (there's a .de in the
references line)? ... about 4.5 kilos per 3.75 liters.

Um. Beg pardon, but by definition, a liter (or litre if you prefer) of
water weighs 1 kilogram. It's also a cube 10 cm per side. The specific
gravity of fresh water is, by definition, 1.000000
snip

The gravel and glass (assuming a glass aquarium) will raise the
average density significantally.

R,
Tom Q.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 20:03:39 -0500, Tom Quackenbush
wrote:

The gravel and glass (assuming a glass aquarium) will raise the
average density significantally.

Only if you're a geology museum. Most aquarium keepers are trying hard
to optimise the fish volume, so any rock in there is a pretty small
fraction. Some of those "rocks" are even lighter than water, if
they're a flat moulded plastic reef backdrop.

I've never seen an aquarium get appreciably heavier with the rocks in
rather than out. However this does happen for vivaria and terraria for
keeping herps (snakes & lizards). They start off with lightweight
construction "because there's no water", then someone sticks a huge
great basking rock in there and wonders why the frame breaks.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 14:25:02 -0700, Charles Spitzer wrote:

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...

Right. Also, be prepared to shim between the aquarium bottom and the
table
top. I found that playing cards work fairly well for this,

use a sheet of 1/2" styrofoam instead of shims.

Never thought of that, thanks. If I ever move it, I'll give it a shot.

Dave Hinz

In article ,
says...
The gravel and glass (assuming a glass aquarium) will raise the
average density significantally.

Only if you're a geology museum. Most aquarium keepers are trying hard
to optimise the fish volume, so any rock in there is a pretty small
fraction. Some of those "rocks" are even lighter than water, if
they're a flat moulded plastic reef backdrop.

I have live plants. They exist in 2" of gravel with 1" of sand. That's
about the minimum for rooted plants.

The gravel came in a 20 pound bag. I didn't weigh the sand, but would
guess another 10 pounds. In a 10 gallon aquarium that's 600 cubic
inches. I don't think they displace 3 gallons of water :-).

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 20:03:39 -0500, Tom Quackenbush
wrote:

The gravel and glass (assuming a glass aquarium) will raise the
average density significantally.

Only if you're a geology museum. Most aquarium keepers are trying hard
to optimise the fish volume, so any rock in there is a pretty small
fraction. Some of those "rocks" are even lighter than water, if
they're a flat moulded plastic reef backdrop.

I've never seen an aquarium get appreciably heavier with the rocks in
rather than out. However this does happen for vivaria and terraria for
keeping herps (snakes & lizards). They start off with lightweight
construction "because there's no water", then someone sticks a huge
great basking rock in there and wonders why the frame breaks.

--
Smert' spamionam

i probably have 200 lbs of rock/sand in my reef aquarium (55 gal) and maybe
that much in my fish aquarium (125 gal). if the rocks were lighter than the
water they'd displace and not hollow, they'd float.

Eureka!

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message
...

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...

Only if you're a geology museum. Most aquarium keepers are trying hard
to optimise the fish volume, so any rock in there is a pretty small
fraction. Some of those "rocks" are even lighter than water, if
they're a flat moulded plastic reef backdrop.


i probably have 200 lbs of rock/sand in my reef aquarium (55 gal) and
maybe
that much in my fish aquarium (125 gal). if the rocks were lighter than
the
water they'd displace and not hollow, they'd float.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
I did a Google on aquarium stands, as I'm going to build one into an
entertainment center for the living room. All seemed to rely on massive
amounts of 2x4s.

Seems like the Soviet school of engineering to me :-).

My thought is a normal 4/4 hardwood frame for each side with a torsion
box for a top to prevent sag.

Instead of the torsion box I may just put some angle irons across,
mortised into the sides, and then a 3/4" hardwood plywood top.

Any comments? Is there a website that tells me how to calculate the
load rating of a frame and panel side? Without needing an engineering
degree?

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Don't use 2*4s. I used them for my 75 gallon and they were major overkill.
Also made it a pain to build. One design I liked (after I started building)
used 1*3 to make 4 'T' shaped legs. The side of the legs were recessed just
enough to make your side plywood flush with the legs. He used veneer to hide
his screws, I would use pocket screws/glue to simply the process. I would
also flip the legs 90 degrees on the back, so you could recess the back. I
envision the front being a standard face frame with a 1*4 header on top of
your 'T' legs.

Mine actually turned out OK for a first attempt, but it's heavy and took too
long to build.

I can email you the pictures I took of my stand. What's your address?


Larry Blanchard wrote:
In article ,
says...

How big is your aquarium going to be? About 7 years ago, my dad built a
stand for my 75 gal aquarium. It is 3/4 oak frame with cupboards below
the aquarium. There is no top, as the aquarium sits directly on the
frame. It's not quite like an entertainment center, but it does look
nice (much better quality than those cheap MDF stands for sale at pet
stores).

If you'd like, I can post a picture on a.b.p.w.


I think I can visualize what you're describing, but if it's not too much
trouble, a picture always helps. Or you could email it to me.

In article ,
says...
I can email you the pictures I took of my stand. What's your address?

Hmmmm. Well, I suspect yours ) may not be for real,
but I sent mine to you via that emial address.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Heh, you're correct. I didn't realize that was set up
as my email address. My real address is:

In article ,
justin wrote:

How big is your aquarium going to be? About 7 years ago, my dad built a
stand for my 75 gal aquarium. It is 3/4 oak frame with cupboards below
the aquarium. There is no top, as the aquarium sits directly on the
frame. It's not quite like an entertainment center, but it does look
nice (much better quality than those cheap MDF stands for sale at pet
stores).

If you'd like, I can post a picture on a.b.p.w.


Please do.

--
Hank Gillette