Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Steve Schefter
 
Posts: n/a
Default lazy susans

Hi.

We have a pantry in our kitches that's basically a closet. Way too deep for
the small items we keep in it. I'd like to put a lazy susan in it so that we
can get to the stuff at the back. But it'll need to be quite large. I'd like
it to be floor to top of door (over 6 feet) tall and about 32 inches wide.
I'd also like at least 6 shelves.

So far I can't find any suitable lazy susan hardware. The most common kind,
such as used in the corner of base cabinets isn't suitable since the shelves
move together. The mass of what I've described above would be too much.

Closer is the 5-shelf pantry lazy susan from Rev-A-Shelf.
http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/graphics/6265.jpg
Unfortunately, even it isn't large enough (only 22 inches wide and 5 shelves).
I say it's closer partly because it seems to have a center pole mechanism
where the shelves rotate around the fixed pole. So the shelves only move one
at a time.

In my mind's eye picture, I see the same sort of hardware as on the Rev-A-Shelf
that fixes the shelf to a pole. But with shelves made of d-shaped cut plywood
for extra strength to hold the soup cans and a thin lip attached around the
edge of the shelves to hold things from falling off.

Anyone know where I might find hardware like this? I've looked at Lee Valley
and several others.

Or would anyone have a better mind's eye picture to suggest?

Thanks!
Steve
  #2   Report Post  
Charles Spitzer
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Steve Schefter" wrote in message
om...
Hi.

We have a pantry in our kitches that's basically a closet. Way too deep
for
the small items we keep in it. I'd like to put a lazy susan in it so that
we
can get to the stuff at the back. But it'll need to be quite large. I'd
like
it to be floor to top of door (over 6 feet) tall and about 32 inches wide.
I'd also like at least 6 shelves.

So far I can't find any suitable lazy susan hardware. The most common
kind,
such as used in the corner of base cabinets isn't suitable since the
shelves
move together. The mass of what I've described above would be too much.

Closer is the 5-shelf pantry lazy susan from Rev-A-Shelf.
http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/graphics/6265.jpg
Unfortunately, even it isn't large enough (only 22 inches wide and 5
shelves).
I say it's closer partly because it seems to have a center pole mechanism
where the shelves rotate around the fixed pole. So the shelves only move
one
at a time.

In my mind's eye picture, I see the same sort of hardware as on the
Rev-A-Shelf
that fixes the shelf to a pole. But with shelves made of d-shaped cut
plywood
for extra strength to hold the soup cans and a thin lip attached around
the
edge of the shelves to hold things from falling off.

Anyone know where I might find hardware like this? I've looked at Lee
Valley
and several others.

Or would anyone have a better mind's eye picture to suggest?

Thanks!
Steve


lazy susans lose a lot of area in the corners. how about pullout pantry
shelving units?

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...&filter=pantry



  #3   Report Post  
Todd Fatheree
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Steve Schefter" wrote in message
om...
Hi.

We have a pantry in our kitches that's basically a closet. Way too deep

for
the small items we keep in it. I'd like to put a lazy susan in it so that

we
can get to the stuff at the back. But it'll need to be quite large. I'd

like
it to be floor to top of door (over 6 feet) tall and about 32 inches wide.
I'd also like at least 6 shelves.

So far I can't find any suitable lazy susan hardware. The most common

kind,
such as used in the corner of base cabinets isn't suitable since the

shelves

move together. The mass of what I've described above would be too much.

Closer is the 5-shelf pantry lazy susan from Rev-A-Shelf.
http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/graphics/6265.jpg
Unfortunately, even it isn't large enough (only 22 inches wide and 5

shelves).
I say it's closer partly because it seems to have a center pole mechanism
where the shelves rotate around the fixed pole. So the shelves only move

one
at a time.

In my mind's eye picture, I see the same sort of hardware as on the

Rev-A-Shelf
that fixes the shelf to a pole. But with shelves made of d-shaped cut

plywood
for extra strength to hold the soup cans and a thin lip attached around

the
edge of the shelves to hold things from falling off.

Anyone know where I might find hardware like this? I've looked at Lee

Valley
and several others.

Or would anyone have a better mind's eye picture to suggest?

Thanks!
Steve


Check out www.woodworkershardware.com. I'm looking at their catalog and
they show an Amerock full round with a (how's this for luck?) 32" diameter
shelf. It says the height is adjustable between about 23" and 31". Maybe
you could connect two or three together? Or put in a couple of fixed
shelves to separate the different lazy susans?

todd


  #4   Report Post  
Bill Stock
 
Posts: n/a
Default

How about rolling your own?

More work, but infinitely flexible.

Use an inner pipe for the pole and a larger outer pipe for the shelf
spacers/supports. The biggest challenge would be securing your shelves to
the pipe supports. I suppose you could even use a square post and bore a
hole down the center for your shelf supports. These would be easier to mount
to your shelves, but might bind/wobble with wear.


"Steve Schefter" wrote in message
om...
Hi.

We have a pantry in our kitches that's basically a closet. Way too deep

for
the small items we keep in it. I'd like to put a lazy susan in it so that

we
can get to the stuff at the back. But it'll need to be quite large. I'd

like
it to be floor to top of door (over 6 feet) tall and about 32 inches wide.
I'd also like at least 6 shelves.

So far I can't find any suitable lazy susan hardware. The most common

kind,
such as used in the corner of base cabinets isn't suitable since the

shelves
move together. The mass of what I've described above would be too much.

Closer is the 5-shelf pantry lazy susan from Rev-A-Shelf.
http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/graphics/6265.jpg
Unfortunately, even it isn't large enough (only 22 inches wide and 5

shelves).
I say it's closer partly because it seems to have a center pole mechanism
where the shelves rotate around the fixed pole. So the shelves only move

one
at a time.

In my mind's eye picture, I see the same sort of hardware as on the

Rev-A-Shelf
that fixes the shelf to a pole. But with shelves made of d-shaped cut

plywood
for extra strength to hold the soup cans and a thin lip attached around

the
edge of the shelves to hold things from falling off.

Anyone know where I might find hardware like this? I've looked at Lee

Valley
and several others.

Or would anyone have a better mind's eye picture to suggest?

Thanks!
Steve



  #6   Report Post  
igor
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 13:52:37 -0400, "Bill Stock" wrote:

How about rolling your own?

More work, but infinitely flexible.

Use an inner pipe for the pole and a larger outer pipe for the shelf
spacers/supports. The biggest challenge would be securing your shelves to
the pipe supports. I suppose you could even use a square post and bore a
hole down the center for your shelf supports. These would be easier to mount
to your shelves, but might bind/wobble with wear.


I think that DIY approach makes some sense. Please excuse this attempt at
"refinement":

Use short lengths of threaded steel pipe -- nipples. Maybe 12" or
whatever. The threaded connectors will serve as stops. Drill appropriate
sized holes (OD of pipe) in each round shelf. And, to aid in the easy
movement of each shelf, use UHMWPE -- I can never get the letters right.
It is that rather slippery stuff sold as anti-friction tape -- but get it
in maybe 1/4" - 1/2" thickness. Drill matching sized holes in maybe a
4"x4" piece and screw that piece into the bottom of each shelf -- so, you
get easy spinning because the plastic's surface is sitting/riding on the
threaded pipe connector. Certainly shelf thickness will have to sized for
weight of what will be stored on it. Both so it won'd droop and it won't
crack at the center hole.

In case you think that the ongoing rubbing of the pipe against the wood
(inside the hole in the wood) might be a problem (squeaks?), you could
oversize the hole through the shelf and screw plastic squares both above
and below the shelf with a perfect-sized hole for the pipe OD. That way,
only the plastic will be in contact with the pipe.

BTW, if you have never worked with this plastic: Rather than generating
"saw dust", it creates something like cotton candy. Kind of flies around
rather than being sucked up by the DC connected to the TS. No real
problem, just strange and a little extra work. HTH. -- Igor
  #9   Report Post  
Rick Samuel
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Drawers are the way to go, did my pantry that way. Each drawer is 19 wide
(inside) 24 deep. Two sections wide. Caned goods weight about 16 lbs/fq
ft. Single layer. Not the tall cans tho. Didn't measure them. Bottom
two have 5.5 inch sides, two with 4.5 in, the rest 3 inch. All the fronts
are the same.


  #10   Report Post  
Steve Schefter
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Philip Lewis wrote
I started down one path using a pipe in a socket as a pivet point, but
then it occured to me:

Build standard shelves and put a small lazy susan on each shelf.

The hardware exists, you have more options for configuration, you
don't waste the back of the closet arc space, and you won't need the
lip for stuff that falls off. (it'll just land on the shelf,
inconvenient, but not a "mess".)

Consider stressed skin platforms for the shelving if the span is
particularly wide or the shelves will carry a heavy load.


Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought if it before, but wasn't keen
on losing the space that a shelf-on-a-shelf would take up. But as you
bring it up again and I think about it some more, it's getting more
appealing. It certainly is easier than the idea in my original post and
I can try it out with just one shelf to see how it goes.

Thanks also to the others who took the time to think about it and offer
other options. I need to dig a bit more through the hardware website that
Todd suggested. Lots of good stuff there.

There are a few reasons why the pull out drawers some suggested won't work
in our case. For starters, the door is not as wide as the cupboard. Also,
with how the door is situated in the kitchen, opening it up wide enough to
get right out of the way of the cupboard opening isn't possible. Finally,
getting items out of a drawer at top-of-head height would be a bit of a
challenge.

In terms of losing the space that putting a round shelf in a rectangular
cupboard would cost, I had planned on having the area around the lazy susan
left as a shelf (picture a D-shaped section of the existing shelf cut out
and spinning while the area around it stays in place).

Steve


  #11   Report Post  
Michael Houghton
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Howdy!

In article ,
Steve Schefter wrote:
[snip]

Thanks also to the others who took the time to think about it and offer
other options. I need to dig a bit more through the hardware website that
Todd suggested. Lots of good stuff there.


You might also look at http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=6006 for the
swinging shelf option...

There are a few reasons why the pull out drawers some suggested won't work
in our case. For starters, the door is not as wide as the cupboard. Also,
with how the door is situated in the kitchen, opening it up wide enough to
get right out of the way of the cupboard opening isn't possible. Finally,
getting items out of a drawer at top-of-head height would be a bit of a
challenge.


I'm in the same boat; the (so-called) pantry is a frickin closet, and
stuff was always getting in the back and forgotten and hard to get
out.

We've yanked out the crappy wire shelves the builder put in and have
pondered what to do next. I'll rip out the door-frame to put in
drawers, if I have to, but I like the "Wooden Pantry Organizers" linked
to above, at least in concept. My problem is that I'm about a half inch
shy on the lateral space to put in the double shelves, so I'm still
dithering.

One cabinet I saw at Lowes that had the same sort of fittings used a
piano hinge to support the swinging cabinets. The Rockler offering
appears to use (effectively) knife hinges top and bottom.

I'm trying to figure out if I can (and will) fabricate such myself. The
trick is supporting the weight reliably...

yours,
Michael


--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
| White Wolf and the Phoenix
Bowie, MD, USA | Tablet and Inkle bands, and other stuff
|
http://www.radix.net/~herveus/wwap/
  #13   Report Post  
Michael Houghton
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Howdy!

In article ,
igor wrote:
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 19:01:57 -0000, (Michael Houghton)
wrote:

I'm in the same boat; the (so-called) pantry is a frickin closet, and
stuff was always getting in the back and forgotten and hard to get
out.

We've yanked out the crappy wire shelves the builder put in and have
pondered what to do next. I'll rip out the door-frame to put in
drawers, if I have to, but I like the "Wooden Pantry Organizers" linked
to above, at least in concept. My problem is that I'm about a half inch
shy on the lateral space to put in the double shelves, so I'm still
dithering.

One cabinet I saw at Lowes that had the same sort of fittings used a
piano hinge to support the swinging cabinets. The Rockler offering
appears to use (effectively) knife hinges top and bottom.

I'm trying to figure out if I can (and will) fabricate such myself. The
trick is supporting the weight reliably...

Depending on how much room you would lose (such as if the ceiling in the
closet is much higher than the door frame), you might consider vertical
drawers. 3" - 8" wide, 5' - 6' high (with a drawer at the bottom to make
up the difference and get some toe-kick space). I love 'em -- especially
for canned stuff. Adjustable shelves in each drawer. (One fixed shelf in
the middle to help with structure.) If the closet is extra deep, you could
have a "thick" pantry door with 6" shelves on it, and then the vertical
drawers inside. FWIW. -- Igor


If I go with drawers, I first do some demolition work to remove the door
and frame and make the opening full width. Otherwise, I have about four
inches of dead space on both sides. I'm not fundamentally opposed to the
idea, mind you. Also, the ceiling in the closet is eight feet up, and
the door is only "normal" height. If I do the swinging shelf bit, I can put
put a usable shelf up high for stuff.

I'm thinking that if I fabricate swinging shelves myself, I'll make them
in two sections to cut down on the moving mass, and use piano hinges.
Put a four inch deep set of shelves in the back of the closet, then a
set of swinging shelves. I still have enough depth to put in another
shelf that will swing all the way out to fill the space, and yet leave
everything more accessible than it was before.

yours,
Michael
--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
| White Wolf and the Phoenix
Bowie, MD, USA | Tablet and Inkle bands, and other stuff
|
http://www.radix.net/~herveus/wwap/
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:07 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"