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  #1   Report Post  
Gene
 
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Default Router table plans...

Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.


  #2   Report Post  
Al Reid
 
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"Gene" wrote in message ...
Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.



A while ago I posted pics of the table that I designed and built. You can see it at
http://www.usenet-replayer.com/cgi/c...e&anz=90&dir=1 .

If you use AutoCAD, I could email you the plans.

--
Al Reid

How will I know when I get there...
If I don't know where I'm going?


  #3   Report Post  
George
 
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How elaborate do you want to get? The one here is about as basic as can
be, and, if you've watched the boys, undeniably useful.
http://www.oak-park.com/

"Gene" wrote in message
...
Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.




  #5   Report Post  
Phisherman
 
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The new Norm Abrams router table is improved. You can order a plan
from the NYW web site. I made one, but hand cut all the dovetails,
used recycled pallet wood for the drawer fronts, and turned several
dogwood knobs. It looks nice enough for the living room!

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, (Gene) wrote:

Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.




  #6   Report Post  
Pat Barber
 
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Here is nice table:

http://www.ronan.net/~woodwork/router.htm

and it even has pitchers....

Gene wrote:

Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.



  #8   Report Post  
Dick Snyder
 
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Default


"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
The new Norm Abrams router table is improved. You can order a plan
from the NYW web site. I made one, but hand cut all the dovetails,
used recycled pallet wood for the drawer fronts, and turned several
dogwood knobs. It looks nice enough for the living room!

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, (Gene) wrote:

Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.



I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done. So far I
find the plan to be excellent.

Dick Snyder


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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Dick Snyder" wrote in message

I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done.


Could you speed it up? Norm is waiting for you to finish it as he has a lot
of work to do.


  #11   Report Post  
Ba r r y
 
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On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 10:06:38 -0700, Larry Blanchard
wrote:


IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table
saw.

Think about it. The space, the stability, no need to store it away, use
your rip fence, etc..



Except for the total lack of chip collection, loss of space under the
wing, and giving up the ability to leave both setups untouched.

If space is tight, it's great, otherwise, I've got the tee-shirt and
bumper sticker from that place. G

Barry
  #12   Report Post  
Ba r r y
 
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On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:09:07 -0700, Larry Blanchard
wrote:


Well, since my rip fence is homemade, chip collection could be easily
added - I haven't yet.


Don't rush. Even with a DC or vacuum connection to the fence, plenty
of trash goes out the bottom, especially with large bits. With a
large bit and the vacuum running, I was still able to make about a 20
foot circle of chips! G

I had thought of building an MDF enclosure for underneath, but when
airflow and chip removal was considered, building a whole table was
just as easy.

With space at a premium, a box underneath and chip removal via the box
would work for the wing. The airflow down through the box would keep
the motor cool as it removed the waste.

The space is available when I'm not routing - I don't leave the router
itself there. Of course, I have to move what I store there when I put
in the router.


Another reason I gave up on the wing was surface height. I'm 6'1",
and a taller table is much easier on the back. My shop made table is
5 inches taller than my saw surface.

However, tight space is tight space!

Barry
  #13   Report Post  
George
 
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My MDO box is stored under my JET belt/disc sander. It's got a bottom
designed to be clamped into a Workmate, and the height to match.

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...

I'm happy with my shop made version. It's simply an MDF box with a
double thickness top.

http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/routertable2.jpg

Why not design your own? Simply start with a table height that's best
for you, and work from there. Building your own stuff from scratch
can be quite rewarding.

Barry



  #15   Report Post  
Rob Jones
 
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Gene,

You might want to get a copy of this book:

Woodworking with the Router
by: Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack
ISBN: 0-7621-0227-6

It contains plans for a real nice router table, plus plans for all
kinds of router table support stuff, like fences, jigs, etc. I
promise that you'll learn a lot from this book.

Rob


On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, (Gene) wrote:

Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.




  #16   Report Post  
Never Enough Money
 
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I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything
underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's
design? The web page says 36" by 26".

  #17   Report Post  
Pat Barber
 
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Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having
built it, I found that you will need to build your
top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can
find.

It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as
well as the max.

I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom.


Never Enough Money wrote:
I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything
underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's
design? The web page says 36" by 26".


  #18   Report Post  
Steven and Gail Peterson
 
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Years ago, I built a kitchen cart with a butcher block top, 24"x36". We
moved a couple times, and I took the cart apart and kept the butcher block.
Later, I built the NYWS router table, adapting it to use the butcher block,
with T-track attached to hold down the fence. It has worked great, and
garnered many compliments. Go for it - be adaptable.

Steve

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having
built it, I found that you will need to build your
top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can
find.

It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as
well as the max.

I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom.


Never Enough Money wrote:
I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything
underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's
design? The web page says 36" by 26".




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