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#1
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Router table plans...
Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. |
#2
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"Gene" wrote in message ...
Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. A while ago I posted pics of the table that I designed and built. You can see it at http://www.usenet-replayer.com/cgi/c...e&anz=90&dir=1 . If you use AutoCAD, I could email you the plans. -- Al Reid How will I know when I get there... If I don't know where I'm going? |
#3
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How elaborate do you want to get? The one here is about as basic as can
be, and, if you've watched the boys, undeniably useful. http://www.oak-park.com/ "Gene" wrote in message ... Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. |
#4
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#5
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The new Norm Abrams router table is improved. You can order a plan
from the NYW web site. I made one, but hand cut all the dovetails, used recycled pallet wood for the drawer fronts, and turned several dogwood knobs. It looks nice enough for the living room! On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, (Gene) wrote: Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. |
#6
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Here is nice table:
http://www.ronan.net/~woodwork/router.htm and it even has pitchers.... Gene wrote: Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. |
#8
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"Phisherman" wrote in message ... The new Norm Abrams router table is improved. You can order a plan from the NYW web site. I made one, but hand cut all the dovetails, used recycled pallet wood for the drawer fronts, and turned several dogwood knobs. It looks nice enough for the living room! On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, (Gene) wrote: Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done. So far I find the plan to be excellent. Dick Snyder |
#9
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"Dick Snyder" wrote in message I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done. Could you speed it up? Norm is waiting for you to finish it as he has a lot of work to do. |
#11
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On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 10:06:38 -0700, Larry Blanchard
wrote: IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table saw. Think about it. The space, the stability, no need to store it away, use your rip fence, etc.. Except for the total lack of chip collection, loss of space under the wing, and giving up the ability to leave both setups untouched. If space is tight, it's great, otherwise, I've got the tee-shirt and bumper sticker from that place. G Barry |
#12
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On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:09:07 -0700, Larry Blanchard
wrote: Well, since my rip fence is homemade, chip collection could be easily added - I haven't yet. Don't rush. Even with a DC or vacuum connection to the fence, plenty of trash goes out the bottom, especially with large bits. With a large bit and the vacuum running, I was still able to make about a 20 foot circle of chips! G I had thought of building an MDF enclosure for underneath, but when airflow and chip removal was considered, building a whole table was just as easy. With space at a premium, a box underneath and chip removal via the box would work for the wing. The airflow down through the box would keep the motor cool as it removed the waste. The space is available when I'm not routing - I don't leave the router itself there. Of course, I have to move what I store there when I put in the router. Another reason I gave up on the wing was surface height. I'm 6'1", and a taller table is much easier on the back. My shop made table is 5 inches taller than my saw surface. However, tight space is tight space! Barry |
#13
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My MDO box is stored under my JET belt/disc sander. It's got a bottom
designed to be clamped into a Workmate, and the height to match. "Ba r r y" wrote in message ... I'm happy with my shop made version. It's simply an MDF box with a double thickness top. http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/routertable2.jpg Why not design your own? Simply start with a table height that's best for you, and work from there. Building your own stuff from scratch can be quite rewarding. Barry |
#14
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#15
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Gene,
You might want to get a copy of this book: Woodworking with the Router by: Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack ISBN: 0-7621-0227-6 It contains plans for a real nice router table, plus plans for all kinds of router table support stuff, like fences, jigs, etc. I promise that you'll learn a lot from this book. Rob On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, (Gene) wrote: Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one. tnx. |
#16
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I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything
underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's design? The web page says 36" by 26". |
#17
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Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having
built it, I found that you will need to build your top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can find. It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as well as the max. I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom. Never Enough Money wrote: I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's design? The web page says 36" by 26". |
#18
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Years ago, I built a kitchen cart with a butcher block top, 24"x36". We
moved a couple times, and I took the cart apart and kept the butcher block. Later, I built the NYWS router table, adapting it to use the butcher block, with T-track attached to hold down the fence. It has worked great, and garnered many compliments. Go for it - be adaptable. Steve "Pat Barber" wrote in message ... Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having built it, I found that you will need to build your top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can find. It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as well as the max. I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom. Never Enough Money wrote: I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's design? The web page says 36" by 26". |
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