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Chris Carruth
 
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Default router table top - design questions

OK, I am 80% done with a nice router table, using (2) 3/4" glued up mdf
slabs for top, laminated on both sides with countertop laminate. Size = 20 x
30. Cabinet has plenty of support to mitigate any sag.

Center of router plate is roughly 8" from front of top. Note I am not a
production shop, do not need .0001" precision, and can afford to take some
extra time regarding setup and teardown.

Questions:
1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge, should it be length of
table, any use for slots running on both sides of router, perpendicular to
router, etc)
2) Type (mfgr, width, etc)
3) Miter bar itself - adjustable , non-adjustable, pitfalls, etc.

I would love to have a miter gauge that is interchangeable between bandsaw,
router, table saw, etc. (do not have a table saw, just thinking of the
future).

Thanks group for your help and advice..


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B a r r y
 
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Default router table top - design questions

On Mon, 02 Aug 2004 03:43:02 GMT, "Chris Carruth"
wrote:


1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge, should it be length of
table,


Length of table, I put it where it looked right, and have never
regretted it.

http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/routertable1.jpg

2) Type (mfgr, width, etc)


I honestly don't remember, but it holds a standard bar.

3) Miter bar itself - adjustable , non-adjustable, pitfalls, etc.


I use the same miter devices as my table saw.

Barry

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Liam
 
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Default router table top - design questions

My advice is forget the miter slot. I sometime use a miter slot for a
featherboard but I could clamp that if it wasn't on the table.

If you need to miter something then make a miter jig that runs along the
side of the table. Just a simple guide attached to 1/4 hardwood plywood.
"Chris Carruth" wrote in message
. ..
OK, I am 80% done with a nice router table, using (2) 3/4" glued up mdf
slabs for top, laminated on both sides with countertop laminate. Size = 20

x
30. Cabinet has plenty of support to mitigate any sag.

Center of router plate is roughly 8" from front of top. Note I am not a
production shop, do not need .0001" precision, and can afford to take some
extra time regarding setup and teardown.

Questions:
1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge, should it be length

of
table, any use for slots running on both sides of router, perpendicular to
router, etc)
2) Type (mfgr, width, etc)
3) Miter bar itself - adjustable , non-adjustable, pitfalls, etc.

I would love to have a miter gauge that is interchangeable between

bandsaw,
router, table saw, etc. (do not have a table saw, just thinking of the
future).

Thanks group for your help and advice..




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Gary
 
Posts: n/a
Default router table top - design questions

I've found a good square piece of mdf, say 3/4 x 12 x 12, run along
the fence behind the board I'm routing, works just fine for me. Also
backs up the cut, reducing tearout. I believe I saw Norm doing this
once.
OTOH, if I were doing cope and stick doors, I'd have the miter slot,
plus a miter gauge with a hold down, or build an equivalent jig.


"Chris Carruth" wrote in message ...
OK, I am 80% done with a nice router table, using (2) 3/4" glued up mdf
slabs for top, laminated on both sides with countertop laminate. Size = 20 x
30. Cabinet has plenty of support to mitigate any sag.

Center of router plate is roughly 8" from front of top. Note I am not a
production shop, do not need .0001" precision, and can afford to take some
extra time regarding setup and teardown.

Questions:
1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge, should it be length of
table, any use for slots running on both sides of router, perpendicular to
router, etc)
2) Type (mfgr, width, etc)
3) Miter bar itself - adjustable , non-adjustable, pitfalls, etc.

I would love to have a miter gauge that is interchangeable between bandsaw,
router, table saw, etc. (do not have a table saw, just thinking of the
future).

Thanks group for your help and advice..

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