I've found a good square piece of mdf, say 3/4 x 12 x 12, run along
the fence behind the board I'm routing, works just fine for me. Also
backs up the cut, reducing tearout. I believe I saw Norm doing this
once.
OTOH, if I were doing cope and stick doors, I'd have the miter slot,
plus a miter gauge with a hold down, or build an equivalent jig.


"Chris Carruth" wrote in message ...
OK, I am 80% done with a nice router table, using (2) 3/4" glued up mdf
slabs for top, laminated on both sides with countertop laminate. Size = 20 x
30. Cabinet has plenty of support to mitigate any sag.

Center of router plate is roughly 8" from front of top. Note I am not a
production shop, do not need .0001" precision, and can afford to take some
extra time regarding setup and teardown.

Questions:
1) Placement of miter slot (how far from front edge, should it be length of
table, any use for slots running on both sides of router, perpendicular to
router, etc)
2) Type (mfgr, width, etc)
3) Miter bar itself - adjustable , non-adjustable, pitfalls, etc.

I would love to have a miter gauge that is interchangeable between bandsaw,
router, table saw, etc. (do not have a table saw, just thinking of the
future).

Thanks group for your help and advice..