It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time doing
this.
Thanks.

On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 09:47:49 -0400, "jack" wrote:

Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall?

I know this is picking nits but, if it matters to you, it's actually
spelled T1-11.

(Btw, assuming you will paint or otherwise protect your siding,
stainless is overkill. Galvies are fine for this application.)

Michael Baglio

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6"
minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want (can't
hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around
the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed, seal
the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE to
paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a
brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.

T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor
siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity as
well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.

One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of
the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later
with a lapped siding or ????.

Good luck
Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was
going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in
the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message
news:BKd8d.20377$223.13304@edtnps89...
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

That said, many sheds often do not get much attention after being built.

T-111 is cheap siding
I agree. I would like to to t&g cedar, but I am having a tough time finding
it up here in RI.

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message
news:BKd8d.20377$223.13304@edtnps89...
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6"
minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want
(can't
hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around
the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed,
seal
the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE
to
paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a
brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.

T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor
siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity
as
well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.

One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of
the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later
with a lapped siding or ????.

Good luck
Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it
also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was
going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in
the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

"Leon" wrote in message

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves
cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is
particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

.... besides being butt ugly.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Say Swingman, I am probably going to get a job to build a table that will
have a 3" thick by 42" square table top. Hard Maple, 3/4" strips glued up
to make the width. Basically long grain butcher block style. Do you know
of any one with a large drum sander to sand that monster?

Leon


"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves
cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to
home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is
particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

... besides being butt ugly.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.



That's certainly the first time I've heard of T-111 not being suitable for
sheeting. There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
belief that it will not add rigidity to a structure. I do agree with your
point about not using construction adhesive.
--

-Mike-

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


... besides being butt ugly.


Yes it is, but you're cruel Swingman. The OP said he was a newbie and there
you go telling him his dream finish is butt ugly.
--

-Mike-

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 20:53:35 GMT, Mike Marlow wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

... besides being butt ugly.

Yes it is, but you're cruel Swingman. The OP said he was a newbie and there
you go telling him his dream finish is butt ugly.

Well, let's be fair - at least he's not staining cherry or something.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.



That's certainly the first time I've heard of T-111 not being suitable for
sheeting.

I did not say it was not suitable for "sheathing". I said that it
eventually needs to be replaced. Sooner than later if not properly cared
for.

There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
belief that it will not add rigidity to a structure. I do agree with your
point about not using construction adhesive.

Yes it will add rigidity but I would much rather depend on the 1x4" running
diagonally and inset into the studs. Much of the T1-11 and similar panels
that I have replaced will pull off of the house with out removing the nails.
Water penetrates at the nail holes and the wood rots. Going back to the
adhesive, it is customary to wrap the out side stud walls with a water proof
material such a tar paper to insure that water does not get into the
building through joints and seams. Gluing as you and I both agree would
require that shield be left out of the equation.

On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 09:47:49 -0400, "jack" wrote:

Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time doing
this.
Thanks.



Check out this website: http://www.apawood.org


I used T1-11 on my shop when I built it about twenty years ago.

My intent was always to apply clapboard over it, as time and funds
allowed, and that's what happened, eventually.

I used construction adhesive on the studs and nailed with eight penny
galvanized air nails on six inch centers in the field and four inch on
the perimeter.

I also ran a bead of architectural sealant in the laps before applying
the overlapping piece.

It is important to get a good coat of paint on quickly, as the
material will degrade fast if not properly coated. You will need a
heavy nap roller skin and T1-11 soaks up about twice as much paint as
what the usual coatings charts show for wood siding. I primed and
first coated my sheets before applying them - it's a lot easier to do
when the sheets are laying flat on the sawhorses. The degrade shows
up in the form of buckling and delamination, so it's worth taking
seriously. Push paint into the top and bottom edges because these are
prime spots for the beginnings of delamination. Get a small roller to
push paint into the reverse batten areas and then backdrag with a
brush.

If you will have sections that are more than eight feet high, you'll
need to get the appropriate flashing pieces for the joints.

Make sure to flash the bottoms with drip edge style flashing and let
about a 1/4" to 1/2" space between the top of the flashing and the
bottom of the T1-11. It's worth running 15 or 30 pound felt behind
that flashing, as this is a common point of water intrusion.

The T1-11 sat that way for about twelve years before I got around to
the clapboard - still looked pretty good.



Regards,
Tom.

"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston

Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

I can't imagine why either. Don't know why it is called T1-11 either
since the stuff I have has 1.5 inch groves not 1 inch every 12
inches. If it had 1 inch grooves then the designation would make
sense. The stuff has been on my shed for nearly 30 years, stained
not painted. In a rainy climate I would much prefer paint. I used
galvanized nails and nailed through the thickest part not in the
groove.

Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the
corners) for part of the structural rigidity. I don't see why you
wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well.
Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not
where I live. Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.




Rob Stokes wrote:

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6"
minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want (can't
hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around
the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed, seal
the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE to
paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a
brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.

T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor
siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity as
well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.

One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of
the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later
with a lapped siding or ????.

Good luck
Rob

--

http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was
going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in
the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

I've used it in a humid climate(central Texas) and regretted it even
though I sealed it well and nailed the heck out of it. It waffled in
between the nailed courses(studs 16 inches on center). I wound up going
over it with horizontal factory primed hardboard and had no trouble with
that as of 5 years later.

RonT

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...

Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the
corners) for part of the structural rigidity.

Yeah but when used that way, it is protected from the elements. A home with
a plywood exterior does not hold up as well as those with non wood
exteriors.


I don't see why you
wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well.

There is not a problem with using T1-11 for the exterior as long as you
realize that in a humid climate it will require more maintence than brick or
fiber cement siding.

Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not
where I live.

Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.

In Houston TX, one of the cheapest places to buy a new house, the 45 bracing
is quite common. 20 to 30 years ago you could hardly buy a new home in
Houston with out it having T1-11. Now all the builders are switching to
Hardy plank and board. In Houston, you will seldom find a house built 15 or
more years ago that has T1-11 that is still in good shape. For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

Leon said:

For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we
speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap *******s!


Greg G.

Leon wrote:

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...

Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the
corners) for part of the structural rigidity.

Yeah but when used that way, it is protected from the elements. A home with
a plywood exterior does not hold up as well as those with non wood
exteriors.

I don't see why you
wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well.

There is not a problem with using T1-11 for the exterior as long as you
realize that in a humid climate it will require more maintence than brick or
fiber cement siding.

Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not
where I live.

Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.

In Houston TX, one of the cheapest places to buy a new house, the 45 bracing
is quite common. 20 to 30 years ago you could hardly buy a new home in
Houston with out it having T1-11. Now all the builders are switching to
Hardy plank and board. In Houston, you will seldom find a house built 15 or
more years ago that has T1-11 that is still in good shape. For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

Well of course it takes more maintenance that brick, and stone,
and concrete, and.........
Nobody is arguing that T1-11 is as good as brick.

Hope you realize that you just made a good argument for not buying a
house in Houston. OTOH, I wouldn't live in Houston if the house was
free!

In article 1ze8d.7470$Tj.4716@okepread02, jack wrote:

T-111 is cheap siding
I agree. I would like to to t&g cedar, but I am having a tough time finding
it up here in RI.

Have you checked into availability of Hardiplank, or the other cement
board products? Reasonably attractive as long as it's kept painted
(more than other pseudo-wood products), and impervious to bugs or rot.
It's not impervious to kids with balls, but it's far tougher than
masonite type products.

See http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner.htm for details.

Kevin

"Leon" wrote in message
Say Swingman, I am probably going to get a job to build a table that will
have a 3" thick by 42" square table top. Hard Maple, 3/4" strips glued up
to make the width. Basically long grain butcher block style. Do you know
of any one with a large drum sander to sand that monster?

Sorry Leon, I don't ... wish I did. If you do find someone let me know if
you will.

Thanks.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Greg G. wrote in message
Leon said:

For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having
to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we
speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap *******s!

You'll be glad you did. I've got one (New Orleans style) going up now that's
spec'ed for Hardi-Plank siding ... I've also got it on my current home.
Brick, stucco and Hardi-Plank are all you see anymore around here in
Houston.

Hardi-Plank is hard to trim with, and, depending upon the sheathing, often
hard to blind nail without waving a bit, but those are minor issues, easily
overcome with experience. Hardi also makes a backer board that's much better
for wet areas, behind showers, etc ... an excellent replacement for
greenboard which, being a cellulose base, will often grow the dreaded (gasp)
mmmooouullddd.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

I'll do that.


"Swingman" wrote in message
news

"Leon" wrote in message
Say Swingman, I am probably going to get a job to build a table that
will
have a 3" thick by 42" square table top. Hard Maple, 3/4" strips glued
up
to make the width. Basically long grain butcher block style. Do you
know
of any one with a large drum sander to sand that monster?

Sorry Leon, I don't ... wish I did. If you do find someone let me know if
you will.

Thanks.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Greg G. wrote in message
...
Leon said:

For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having
to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we
speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap *******s!


I have replaced probably 1/3 of the siding on my house that was built 20
years ago with Hardiplank. It is doing very well. I replaced it 4 or 5
years ago. I am also finishing up on a storage shed that is 99% Hardi.
I was able to get Masonite to pay for a lot of the cost.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...

Well of course it takes more maintenance that brick, and stone,
and concrete, and.........
Nobody is arguing that T1-11 is as good as brick.

Well for about 15% more, you can buy a superior product that will probably
not ever have to be replaced.


Hope you realize that you just made a good argument for not buying a
house in Houston.

Or any house in any town or city near a large body of water that has this
type siding.

OTOH, I wouldn't live in Houston if the house was
free!

Good, Houston is crowded enough.

"Leon" wrote in message
I'll do that.

If you're in the area, give me a holler and come by ... I'll be in the shop
most every day this week. There may even be a walnut board or two you can
walk off with. ;.)

You've got my e-mail, right?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Swingman said:

Greg G. wrote in message
Leon said:

For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having
to worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we
speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap *******s!

You'll be glad you did. I've got one (New Orleans style) going up now that's
spec'ed for Hardi-Plank siding ... I've also got it on my current home.
Brick, stucco and Hardi-Plank are all you see anymore around here in
Houston.

I've already laid down the law to Carol that the next house we get
after fleeing this city is going to be of concrete or brick - and
single story instead of three. I'm getting too old to be climbing 40'
ladders... (Although the first floor is real brick.)

I actually bought one HardiPlank a year before this project began -
soaked it in water, and generally abused it to determine of it
*really* held up as advertised. I'm only doing this ONCE!

That GP stuff is covered with mold on the backside, and on top of
that, the idiots that sheathed this thing left big holes, breaks and
hammer holes in the sheathing - you can see pink insulation through
the many gaps and holes.... Of course, there is no building wrap
either. They also laid the unprimed GP hardboard siding right up to
and touching the roof shingles - and of course it soaked up water
every time it rained. Heck, the corners weren't even nailed together,
the plates didn't overlap, and the plywood corner sheathing wasn't
even nailed to the opposing wall. I'm surprised the back wall didn't
just fall off... ;-o

The doors were nailed into place through the brickmold with concrete
nails, the windows affixed in the same manner, everything was crooked
with gaping gaps around their periphery, and nothing was flashed AT
ALL and rotted. What a mess... 15 years old...

Not to mention digging up the yard and totally redoing the Quest water
main when it broke last fall for the third time - right after
beginning this "project from hell". They built new subdivisions up
hill from where we are, and the water pressure suddenly jumped from
~90PSI to 160PSI. Really played havoc with all the plumbing. Had to
install new pressure regulators, etc.

All of this is being corrected - new roof, new flashing, new sheathing
where appropriate, building wrap, new siding, new flashing, new
windows and doors... My fear is that we'll never get our money out of
this monstrosity... And my biggest gripe - I don't have time to play
in the woodshop!

Hardi-Plank is hard to trim with, and, depending upon the sheathing, often
hard to blind nail without waving a bit, but those are minor issues, easily
overcome with experience. Hardi also makes a backer board that's much better
for wet areas, behind showers, etc ... an excellent replacement for
greenboard which, being a cellulose base, will often grow the dreaded (gasp)
mmmooouullddd.

Blind nails - pffah! This stuff is getting face nailed with hot dip
galvanized ring shanks! Helps to mask the wavering wall line!
Compared to the phantom air nails in the middle of the planks that
"held" the GP stuff in place, it looks fabulous! No swelling, bubbles
or rot! Paint can cover the nail heads. As for cutting and fitting -
it hasn't been a problem, but I built a jig to make cutting it easier
and more accurate.

Removal of the old siding consisted of grabbing one side and pulling
hard - most of the nails never hit a stud and simply pulled out of the
cellulose sheathing and the strip fell to the ground. It's good we
never got a hard wind here, because most of this would have simply
blown away... They never would have allowed something like this be
built in Florida... Or would they?!

Well, it's back to the roof for me...


Greg G.

Leon said:

Greg G. wrote in message
.. .
Leon said:

For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having
to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we
speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap *******s!

I have replaced probably 1/3 of the siding on my house that was built 20
years ago with Hardiplank. It is doing very well. I replaced it 4 or 5
years ago. I am also finishing up on a storage shed that is 99% Hardi.
I was able to get Masonite to pay for a lot of the cost.

We missed the window of opportunity on the GP law suit, and they
probably wouldn't have covered it anyway due to the "builder's"
improper installation technique. It's all out of pocket for us!
Ugghh...


Greg G.

On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 14:31:10 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

Well for about 15% more, you can buy a superior product that will probably
not ever have to be replaced.

Yep.

Upside:
Comes already primed, and providing it's painted within 30 days, the
warrantee on Hardi-Plank is 50 years. It's what I did my shop-ette
in. Looks good, weighs a ton and-- given that it's cement board--
should hold up pretty darned well. (Hell, 50 years is a longer
warrantee than _I_ have right now so all's good.) ;

Downside:
It's cement. Be prepared to destroy a couple of circular saw blades.
Cutting it creates cement dust. Be prepared to breathe a lot of
cement dust.

Michael (Geez, am I really turning 50 this month?) Baglio

"Michael Baglio" wrote in message
...

Yep.

Upside:
Comes already primed, and providing it's painted within 30 days, the
warrantee on Hardi-Plank is 50 years.

IIRC you should paint within 6 moonths.

It's what I did my shop-ette
in. Looks good, weighs a ton and-- given that it's cement board--
should hold up pretty darned well. (Hell, 50 years is a longer
warrantee than _I_ have right now so all's good.) ;

Downside:
It's cement. Be prepared to destroy a couple of circular saw blades.
Cutting it creates cement dust. Be prepared to breathe a lot of
cement dust.

While you can cut it with a carbide blade I found that the diamond coated
blades with no teeth work very very well compared to carbide blade with
teeth. When I first sided my house with Hardi I used the common carbide
circle saw blade. When doing repairs on other houses and when doing my shed
I used the cheap, $15 diamond coated blade from HD. This blade works like a
dream, stirs up less dust, and makes a cleaner, smoother cut. You have to
look for this blade as the sales people point to the $50 blade. So the $15
blade only lasts 75% as long as the $50 blade. It has already outlasted the
carbide blades and in this instance, the cheaper blade is cheaper in the
long run.

One other hint. I ALWAYS take a fan to the job site and have it blow the
dust away from me. I am always between the fan and the material being cut.

Greg G. wrote in message
...
Swingman said:

Greg G. wrote in message

That GP stuff is covered with mold on the backside, and on top of
that, the idiots that sheathed this thing left big holes, breaks and
hammer holes in the sheathing - you can see pink insulation through
the many gaps and holes....

snip

Removal of the old siding consisted of grabbing one side and pulling
hard - most of the nails never hit a stud and simply pulled out of the
cellulose sheathing and the strip fell to the ground. It's good we
never got a hard wind here, because most of this would have simply
blown away... They never would have allowed something like this be
built in Florida... Or would they?!

Well, it's back to the roof for me...

I often use what is called "vent skin" construction down here. It is not
recommended for all parts of the country, but works well on the Gulf Coast
There was an article in FHB some years back and they called it something
like "rain screen"??, but it was for a different part of the country.

Basically, instead of nailing the siding to the sheathing, it is nailed to
vertical 3/8 thick furring strips on top of the sheathing ... the resultant
cavity runs from the bottom of the sheathing, all the way up past the
soffit, and into the attic cavity.

This will a allow a roof with ridge vents to pull/circulate air through the
resulting space behind the siding, and any moisture trapped there will have
a chance to dry out. You need to put an insect screen at the bottom of the
cavity behind the siding, but that is easy with a new plastic product on the
market.

I did my current house this way and happy with the results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Leon said:

"Michael Baglio" wrote in message
.. .

Yep.

Upside:
Comes already primed, and providing it's painted within 30 days, the
warrantee on Hardi-Plank is 50 years.

IIRC you should paint within 6 moonths.

I hope so, 'cause it's been 3 months for my siding...
I can't get SWMBO to decide what color she wants... :-\

It's what I did my shop-ette
in. Looks good, weighs a ton and-- given that it's cement board--
should hold up pretty darned well. (Hell, 50 years is a longer
warrantee than _I_ have right now so all's good.) ;

Downside:
It's cement. Be prepared to destroy a couple of circular saw blades.
Cutting it creates cement dust. Be prepared to breathe a lot of
cement dust.

While you can cut it with a carbide blade I found that the diamond coated
blades with no teeth work very very well compared to carbide blade with
teeth. When I first sided my house with Hardi I used the common carbide
circle saw blade. When doing repairs on other houses and when doing my shed
I used the cheap, $15 diamond coated blade from HD. This blade works like a
dream, stirs up less dust, and makes a cleaner, smoother cut. You have to
look for this blade as the sales people point to the $50 blade. So the $15
blade only lasts 75% as long as the $50 blade. It has already outlasted the
carbide blades and in this instance, the cheaper blade is cheaper in the
long run.

I'll second that emotion - I'm using a Dewalt diamond siding blade,
and it has thousands of cuts on it - no sign of wear yet. FAR better
than any wood cutting blade, carbide or not. Heck, the time saved
changing out blades is worth what it costs - $45 as I recall. I
couldn't find the Hardy recommended Hitachi blade locally.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Leon said:

One other hint. I ALWAYS take a fan to the job site and have it blow the
dust away from me. I am always between the fan and the material being cut.

Yes, being upwind is definitely a good thing. I hold my breath when
the wind shifts... ;-) Silicosis is not in my itinerary.


Greg G.

Swingman said:

I often use what is called "vent skin" construction down here. It is not
recommended for all parts of the country, but works well on the Gulf Coast
There was an article in FHB some years back and they called it something
like "rain screen"??, but it was for a different part of the country.

Basically, instead of nailing the siding to the sheathing, it is nailed to
vertical 3/8 thick furring strips on top of the sheathing ... the resultant
cavity runs from the bottom of the sheathing, all the way up past the
soffit, and into the attic cavity.

This will a allow a roof with ridge vents to pull/circulate air through the
resulting space behind the siding, and any moisture trapped there will have
a chance to dry out. You need to put an insect screen at the bottom of the
cavity behind the siding, but that is easy with a new plastic product on the
market.

I did my current house this way and happy with the results.

The lower floor with brick masonry work is done in a similar fashion,
as is standard practice, but I wasn't about to do it on the rest of
the house. Maybe when we build our dream home in the woods. With the
98% humidity levels here in the summer, it would be a good thing.

IMHO, if they had properly wrapped this house, and made sure the
sheathing was contiguous, it would have stopped most of the mold that
was present. Much of the moisture was migrating through the walls
from the inside of the house.


Greg G.

Greg G. wrote in :

Leon said:

"Michael Baglio" wrote in message
. ..

Yep.

Upside:
Comes already primed, and providing it's painted within 30 days, the
warrantee on Hardi-Plank is 50 years.

IIRC you should paint within 6 moonths.

I hope so, 'cause it's been 3 months for my siding...
I can't get SWMBO to decide what color she wants... :-\

I suggest you put on a first coat, and wait for her to tell you that you're
wrong. It won't matter what the first color is. You will be wrong anyway.
Even if SHE picks out the color.

This should buy you time until next spring.

Talk to your respected local professional paint retailer, and get the right
product.

Patriarch,
who has maybe 12 gallons of paint that turned out not to be quite the right
color...

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


This will a allow a roof with ridge vents to pull/circulate air through
the
resulting space behind the siding, and any moisture trapped there will
have
a chance to dry out. You need to put an insect screen at the bottom of the
cavity behind the siding, but that is easy with a new plastic product on
the
market.

I did my current house this way and happy with the results.


Hey Swingman - what is the new plastic product you're refering to?
--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Hey Swingman - what is the new plastic product you're refering to?

Sorry, Mike ... I am having a devil of a time remembering the name of the
stuff. It looks like plastic 1X2 with holes drilled through the width. You
cut and install beween the furring strips, at the bottom of the first course
of siding so insects can't get in the cavity.

I first used it a couple of years ago and will try to find an old invoice
with the name on it ... might take a day or so. I ordered from a place here
in Houston that caters to builders and specializes in moldings, wood and
building materials you can't generally find at lumber yards or the BORGS

ITMT, until I locate that invoice, maybe the following will lead you to the
product:

Fine Homebuilding - February/March 2001 - #137

RAIN-SCREEN WALLS: A BETTER WAY TO INSTALL SIDING
by Mark Averill Snyder
"Spacing siding away from housewrap promotes ventilation and drainage for
long-lasting siding and paint."

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

patriarch said:

Greg G. wrote in :

I hope so, 'cause it's been 3 months for my siding...
I can't get SWMBO to decide what color she wants... :-\

I suggest you put on a first coat, and wait for her to tell you that you're
wrong. It won't matter what the first color is. You will be wrong anyway.
Even if SHE picks out the color.

I try to use sample blocks, but it still probably won't work. :-\

This should buy you time until next spring.

Hey, I hate painting - this is going to be done ONCE. Regardless of
the outcome...

Talk to your respected local professional paint retailer, and get the right
product.

Pure Acrylic of an undetermined color. :-o

Patriarch,
who has maybe 12 gallons of paint that turned out not to be quite the right
color...

This spring, you should have a "not quite right" yard sale...

SWMBO wanted to paint her office as I was painting the hallways and
such - insisted she would finish the job. That was a year ago and the
trim still isn't finished. And we ended up with an extra can of paint
that will never be used because when she bought an additional can -
you guessed it - different manufacturer, different color. I didn't
find it until 3 months later - another paint can goes into the
collection of 17 paint cans and other crap stacked up in the basement
that I have to trip over to get the the breaker box. :-\

Ahhh, well....


Greg G.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Hey Swingman - what is the new plastic product you're refering to?

Sorry, Mike ... I am having a devil of a time remembering the name of the
stuff. It looks like plastic 1X2 with holes drilled through the width. You
cut and install beween the furring strips, at the bottom of the first
course
of siding so insects can't get in the cavity.


Thanks Swingman. What I'm doing is a bit different...

We had perpetual ice buildup problem on our house because the entire front
roof was not vented at all, and the rear roof was poorly vented. Now, 20
some years later, we decided to fix that problem since we had to put new
shingles on anyway. We could not just cut in soffet vents in front because
the contractor that built the house cut the roof rafters to miter down onto
the top course of logs (log home) instead of birds mouthing them and running
them out. (You'd really have to see it to understand the problem). Instead
of tearing off all of the roof decking and figuring a way to vent it better,
we decided to tear off the shingles and leave the roof deck on. I got 200
sheets of 1.5in rigid insulation board for free that was being taken off a
commercial roof by the company that my brother in law works for. All I had
to do was pick up the insulation. This stuff is about R1.5 to the inch so,
it adds to our existing R30 nicely. We laid that down on the existing roof
decking and then ran 2x4's laid on their side up the insulation and screwed
it through the insulation into the old roof deck. Think of this as purloins
run the wrong way. Then we decked over that with a new roof deck. This
left us with a 1.5in air channel between each of the 2x4's for air flow up
to the ridge vent. The key is that we had aluminum bent for new fascia that
runs about an inch wild of the original fascia and steps to the original
fascia. It does not step to be in contact with the original fascia, but it
steps to overhang the top of the original fascia a bit, but still about an
inch wild of the face of the original fascia. This makes for a nice look of
the fascia, instead of a massive hunk of 1x8 for a fascia and the 1in wild
leaves an air gap of 1in for the air to flow completely along the edge of
the roof.

\ ------------- New Dripedge and Fascia of Bent Aluminum
\
|
\ |
\ ---
| | ----------- One Inch gap between original fascia and
new fascia for airflow
| Slight over lap of new fascia
bottom and step of original fascia
---
|
| ------------------- Existing Dripedge and Fascia Made of Wood
and Stepped



Phhhew. That was a lot of typing. Anyway, now I'm left with coming up with
a way to keep bees and the likes out of this air channel. I'm thinking of
just using rolled roof vent and stuffing it up in that 1in gap. I saw your
post and thought I'd look at other options before committing to any
particular one.

--

-Mike-

Greg, Greg, Greg. Paint cans near the breaker box. Ouch ! Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

Greg G. wrote:
[snip]
you guessed it - different manufacturer, different color. I didn't
find it until 3 months later - another paint can goes into the
collection of 17 paint cans and other crap stacked up in the basement
that I have to trip over to get the the breaker box. :-\

Ahhh, well....


Greg G.
[snip]