Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time doing
this.
Thanks.

It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6"
minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want (can't
hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around
the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed, seal
the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE to
paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a
brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.

T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor
siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity as
well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.

One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of
the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later
with a lapped siding or ????.

Good luck
Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was
going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in
the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message
news:BKd8d.20377$223.13304@edtnps89...
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

That said, many sheds often do not get much attention after being built.

"Leon" wrote in message

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves
cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is
particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

.... besides being butt ugly.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Say Swingman, I am probably going to get a job to build a table that will
have a 3" thick by 42" square table top. Hard Maple, 3/4" strips glued up
to make the width. Basically long grain butcher block style. Do you know
of any one with a large drum sander to sand that monster?

Leon


"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves
cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to
home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is
particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

... besides being butt ugly.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


... besides being butt ugly.


Yes it is, but you're cruel Swingman. The OP said he was a newbie and there
you go telling him his dream finish is butt ugly.
--

-Mike-

I've used it in a humid climate(central Texas) and regretted it even
though I sealed it well and nailed the heck out of it. It waffled in
between the nailed courses(studs 16 inches on center). I wound up going
over it with horizontal factory primed hardboard and had no trouble with
that as of 5 years later.

RonT

On Monday, October 4, 2004 at 11:39:37 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
"Rob Stokes" wrote in message
news:BKd8d.20377$223.13304@edtnps89...
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

That said, many sheds often do not get much attention after being built.

T1-11 is made in various forms by numerous companies. One type is made with a paper covered OSB. It needs to be thoroughly sealed or it won't last. Another type is made with paper covered hardboard. It will swell at every spot a nail pierces. The best one is described as "all wood". It needs no finish and will last indefinitely. By the way, T1-11 is not trademarked product name. It's merely the name used to describe a type of grooved siding. It can be made by anyone and still be called T1-11.

On 8/17/2016 6:43 AM, wrote:
On Monday, October 4, 2004 at 11:39:37 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
"Rob Stokes" wrote in message
news:BKd8d.20377$223.13304@edtnps89...
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home
owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is particularily
bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.

That said, many sheds often do not get much attention after being built.

T1-11 is made in various forms by numerous companies. One type is made with a paper covered OSB. It needs to be thoroughly sealed or it won't last. Another type is made with paper covered hardboard. It will swell at every spot a nail pierces. The best one is described as "all wood". It needs no finish and will last indefinitely. By the way, T1-11 is not trademarked product name. It's merely the name used to describe a type of grooved siding. It can be made by anyone and still be called T1-11.


That is a very interesting answer, well worth the 14 years we waited for
it.

T-111 is cheap siding
I agree. I would like to to t&g cedar, but I am having a tough time finding
it up here in RI.

"Rob Stokes" wrote in message
news:BKd8d.20377$223.13304@edtnps89...
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6"
minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want
(can't
hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around
the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed,
seal
the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE
to
paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a
brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.

T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor
siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity
as
well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.

One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of
the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later
with a lapped siding or ????.

Good luck
Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it
also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was
going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in
the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

In article 1ze8d.7470$Tj.4716@okepread02, jack wrote:

T-111 is cheap siding
I agree. I would like to to t&g cedar, but I am having a tough time finding
it up here in RI.

Have you checked into availability of Hardiplank, or the other cement
board products? Reasonably attractive as long as it's kept painted
(more than other pseudo-wood products), and impervious to bugs or rot.
It's not impervious to kids with balls, but it's far tougher than
masonite type products.

See http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner.htm for details.

Kevin

I can't imagine why either. Don't know why it is called T1-11 either
since the stuff I have has 1.5 inch groves not 1 inch every 12
inches. If it had 1 inch grooves then the designation would make
sense. The stuff has been on my shed for nearly 30 years, stained
not painted. In a rainy climate I would much prefer paint. I used
galvanized nails and nailed through the thickest part not in the
groove.

Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the
corners) for part of the structural rigidity. I don't see why you
wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well.
Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not
where I live. Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.




Rob Stokes wrote:

Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut
in it.

Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6"
minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want (can't
hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around
the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed, seal
the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE to
paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a
brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.

T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor
siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity as
well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.

One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of
the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later
with a lapped siding or ????.

Good luck
Rob

--

http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.


"jack" wrote in message
news:nic8d.7836$UA.4339@lakeread08...
Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was
going
to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in
the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time
doing
this.
Thanks.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...

Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the
corners) for part of the structural rigidity.

Yeah but when used that way, it is protected from the elements. A home with
a plywood exterior does not hold up as well as those with non wood
exteriors.


I don't see why you
wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well.

There is not a problem with using T1-11 for the exterior as long as you
realize that in a humid climate it will require more maintence than brick or
fiber cement siding.

Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not
where I live.

Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.

In Houston TX, one of the cheapest places to buy a new house, the 45 bracing
is quite common. 20 to 30 years ago you could hardly buy a new home in
Houston with out it having T1-11. Now all the builders are switching to
Hardy plank and board. In Houston, you will seldom find a house built 15 or
more years ago that has T1-11 that is still in good shape. For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

Leon said:

For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we
speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap *******s!


Greg G.

Leon wrote:

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...

Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the
corners) for part of the structural rigidity.

Yeah but when used that way, it is protected from the elements. A home with
a plywood exterior does not hold up as well as those with non wood
exteriors.

I don't see why you
wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well.

There is not a problem with using T1-11 for the exterior as long as you
realize that in a humid climate it will require more maintence than brick or
fiber cement siding.

Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not
where I live.

Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.

In Houston TX, one of the cheapest places to buy a new house, the 45 bracing
is quite common. 20 to 30 years ago you could hardly buy a new home in
Houston with out it having T1-11. Now all the builders are switching to
Hardy plank and board. In Houston, you will seldom find a house built 15 or
more years ago that has T1-11 that is still in good shape. For a few
dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to
worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.

Well of course it takes more maintenance that brick, and stone,
and concrete, and.........
Nobody is arguing that T1-11 is as good as brick.

Hope you realize that you just made a good argument for not buying a
house in Houston. OTOH, I wouldn't live in Houston if the house was
free!

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.



That's certainly the first time I've heard of T-111 not being suitable for
sheeting. There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
belief that it will not add rigidity to a structure. I do agree with your
point about not using construction adhesive.
--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Leon" wrote in message
...
It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I
would
nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also.
Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to
top
plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for
appearance and not to add support to the structure.



That's certainly the first time I've heard of T-111 not being suitable for
sheeting.

I did not say it was not suitable for "sheathing". I said that it
eventually needs to be replaced. Sooner than later if not properly cared
for.

There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
belief that it will not add rigidity to a structure. I do agree with your
point about not using construction adhesive.

Yes it will add rigidity but I would much rather depend on the 1x4" running
diagonally and inset into the studs. Much of the T1-11 and similar panels
that I have replaced will pull off of the house with out removing the nails.
Water penetrates at the nail holes and the wood rots. Going back to the
adhesive, it is customary to wrap the out side stud walls with a water proof
material such a tar paper to insure that water does not get into the
building through joints and seams. Gluing as you and I both agree would
require that shield be left out of the equation.

On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 09:47:49 -0400, "jack" wrote:

Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall?

I know this is picking nits but, if it matters to you, it's actually
spelled T1-11.

(Btw, assuming you will paint or otherwise protect your siding,
stainless is overkill. Galvies are fine for this application.)

Michael Baglio

On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 09:47:49 -0400, "jack" wrote:

Hello,
What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going to
first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the
grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them).
I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time doing
this.
Thanks.



Check out this website: http://www.apawood.org


I used T1-11 on my shop when I built it about twenty years ago.

My intent was always to apply clapboard over it, as time and funds
allowed, and that's what happened, eventually.

I used construction adhesive on the studs and nailed with eight penny
galvanized air nails on six inch centers in the field and four inch on
the perimeter.

I also ran a bead of architectural sealant in the laps before applying
the overlapping piece.

It is important to get a good coat of paint on quickly, as the
material will degrade fast if not properly coated. You will need a
heavy nap roller skin and T1-11 soaks up about twice as much paint as
what the usual coatings charts show for wood siding. I primed and
first coated my sheets before applying them - it's a lot easier to do
when the sheets are laying flat on the sawhorses. The degrade shows
up in the form of buckling and delamination, so it's worth taking
seriously. Push paint into the top and bottom edges because these are
prime spots for the beginnings of delamination. Get a small roller to
push paint into the reverse batten areas and then backdrag with a
brush.

If you will have sections that are more than eight feet high, you'll
need to get the appropriate flashing pieces for the joints.

Make sure to flash the bottoms with drip edge style flashing and let
about a 1/4" to 1/2" space between the top of the flashing and the
bottom of the T1-11. It's worth running 15 or 30 pound felt behind
that flashing, as this is a common point of water intrusion.

The T1-11 sat that way for about twelve years before I got around to
the clapboard - still looked pretty good.



Regards,
Tom.

"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston

Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1