Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

--
Smert' spamionam

Any chance of putting the drawer pull around the face of the drawer
front. Just enough to use the finger tips to pull the drawer out.

James
www.cryscom.nb.ca

Andy Dingley wrote:
Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

Any chance of putting the drawer pull around the face of the drawer
front. Just enough to use the finger tips to pull the drawer out.

James
www.cryscom.nb.ca

Andy Dingley wrote:
Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

Andy Dingley wrote:

Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.

Any thoughts ? Thanks

--
Smert' spamionam

In my opinion, the drawer face should be flush with the surrounding
wood, no overlap, when using thses. A drawer front that overlaps the
carcase destroys the simplicity of design. But go ahead if you want,
just make the overlap thin (most of drawer front flush with carcase)
with a design that doesn't hint at the drawer being pushed in.

Andy Dingley wrote:

Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.

Any thoughts ? Thanks

--
Smert' spamionam

In my opinion, the drawer face should be flush with the surrounding
wood, no overlap, when using thses. A drawer front that overlaps the
carcase destroys the simplicity of design. But go ahead if you want,
just make the overlap thin (most of drawer front flush with carcase)
with a design that doesn't hint at the drawer being pushed in.

If you omit the bottom rail; you can make the drawer front with a lip on the
bottom and simply pull the drawer open with a finger under the bottom.

--
Alan Bierbaum

Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Current project: http://home.comcast.net/~cabierbaum/

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

--
Smert' spamionam

If you omit the bottom rail; you can make the drawer front with a lip on the
bottom and simply pull the drawer open with a finger under the bottom.

--
Alan Bierbaum

Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Current project: http://home.comcast.net/~cabierbaum/

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

--
Smert' spamionam

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:02:58 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches.

Put them at the rear of the dawer with the drawer flush [with
allowance] with the carcase, and room at the rear for the catch
mechanism. The drawer front should be flush when locked.

A loaded drawer would resist motion, so you *really* need
free-wheeling movement ...well waxed, teflon, or something like that.

Bill.

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:02:58 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches.

Put them at the rear of the dawer with the drawer flush [with
allowance] with the carcase, and room at the rear for the catch
mechanism. The drawer front should be flush when locked.

A loaded drawer would resist motion, so you *really* need
free-wheeling movement ...well waxed, teflon, or something like that.

Bill.

It would seem that someone used "push to open" catches and posted a picture in "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" a couple
of weeks ago. He had modified that latches and made them work on the top-back of the drawer.
As I remember, he had added a "extension" to the latch to get a greater distance of movement before latching and unlatching
which may be enough to get the drawer face out far enough to get fingers behind it.
It was posted by Mark Johnson on 9/5/2004 and was labeled "Touch latch extension finger (Changing table 4/3).
R. Wink

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:02:58 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:

Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

It would seem that someone used "push to open" catches and posted a picture in "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" a couple
of weeks ago. He had modified that latches and made them work on the top-back of the drawer.
As I remember, he had added a "extension" to the latch to get a greater distance of movement before latching and unlatching
which may be enough to get the drawer face out far enough to get fingers behind it.
It was posted by Mark Johnson on 9/5/2004 and was labeled "Touch latch extension finger (Changing table 4/3).
R. Wink

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:02:58 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:

Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.

So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.

I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
the catch.


Any thoughts ? Thanks

"R. Wink" wrote in message
...
It would seem that someone used "push to open" catches and posted a
picture in "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" a couple
of weeks ago. He had modified that latches and made them work on the
top-back of the drawer.

These were designed for the front, but I don't see why they couldn't be
adapted for the rear of a drawer.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...urrency=1&SID=

"R. Wink" wrote in message
...
It would seem that someone used "push to open" catches and posted a
picture in "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" a couple
of weeks ago. He had modified that latches and made them work on the
top-back of the drawer.

These were designed for the front, but I don't see why they couldn't be
adapted for the rear of a drawer.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...urrency=1&SID=

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 08:43:06 -0400, Bill Rogers
wrote:

A loaded drawer would resist motion, so you *really* need
free-wheeling movement ...well waxed, teflon, or something like that.

Agreed, so I'm thinking of buying in metal runners with wheels,
mounted beneath the drawer so as to be invisible. They run more
freely than my usual waxed maple strips - even if I put a UHMW or HDPE
slip in there..

Put them at the rear of the dawer with the drawer flush [with
allowance] with the carcase, and room at the rear for the catch
mechanism. The drawer front should be flush when locked.

I can still mount them at the front, under the drawer body and between
the runners.


The idea of setting the drawer faces between the carcase sides is
interesting, because I think that's the best way to hide the clearance
I'll need to allow for the initial backward movement.
--
Smert' spamionam

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 08:43:06 -0400, Bill Rogers
wrote:

A loaded drawer would resist motion, so you *really* need
free-wheeling movement ...well waxed, teflon, or something like that.

Agreed, so I'm thinking of buying in metal runners with wheels,
mounted beneath the drawer so as to be invisible. They run more
freely than my usual waxed maple strips - even if I put a UHMW or HDPE
slip in there..

Put them at the rear of the dawer with the drawer flush [with
allowance] with the carcase, and room at the rear for the catch
mechanism. The drawer front should be flush when locked.

I can still mount them at the front, under the drawer body and between
the runners.


The idea of setting the drawer faces between the carcase sides is
interesting, because I think that's the best way to hide the clearance
I'll need to allow for the initial backward movement.
--
Smert' spamionam