I recently built a base for my General 650 as a 'first project' for my
new saw. Instead of building an external steel frame I relied on the
heavy steel cabinet, which is flared at the bottom for extra strength
and instead installed 2 Track-roll roller bearings INSIDE the cabinet.

The roller bearings are 2.5" that I got scrap from EBAY cheap (unused).
They are good for a ton each. I built 2 axels from 1/2" x 2.5" x 21"
aluminum bar, and sandwiched it between 3/4"x2.5"x21" MDF strips. The
result is a solid interior frame with very smooth movement. Just pick
up the saw from the end of the rails, and move it like a wheelbarrow. I
had to make some 1/2" aluminum feet for the side of the cabinet opposite
the wheels to level it as well. I also kept the wheels back from the
left edge of the cabinet, which makes the saw a bit less stable than
normal, so I added a spring type 'foot' which makes if very solid.

Hope you can figure this out.

In article , Rob Mitchell wrote:
[snip]
Just pick up the saw from the end of the rails, and move it like a wheelbarrow.

OUCH! Doesn't that play hell with your alignment?

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Rob Mitchell wrote:
[snip]

Just pick up the saw from the end of the rails, and move it like a wheelbarrow.


OUCH! Doesn't that play hell with your alignment?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.


Alignment of what specifically? I haven't noticed any problems. The
whole unit sort of balances on the wheels, so there is actually less
weight on the rails with the wheels, than without them (when lifting by
the rails). My internal frame is very stiff, and makes the saw cabinet
stiffer, so flexing of the unit is not a concern.