Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.

I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?

How do other people handle deep rips ?

--
If we fail, then let us fail heroically
(or even better, stoichiometrically)

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.

I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?

How do other people handle deep rips ?

I use my 18" band saw and then run the board over the 8" jointer.

RE blade size, my Jet cabinet saw has a metal dust guard and Biesemeyer
T-splitter that would preclude mounting a blade larger than 10".

John

Andy Dingley wrote:


How do other people handle deep rips ?

Deep rips? How's 'bout using a bandsaw??

David

Andy,

I am happy with my 12" Forrester blade in the green monster (G5959Z). In
many cases I am using it as an alternative for bandsaw, jointer, and planer.

+++ Ollie
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.

I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?

How do other people handle deep rips ?

--
If we fail, then let us fail heroically
(or even better, stoichiometrically)

I only have a contractor's saw so I use a 10" blade. Recently I've seen
several used 14" and 18" cabinet saws in my area. The 14" saw went for
$150! I don't think the larger saws are very popular as 10" is enough for
most people.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.

I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?

How do other people handle deep rips ?

--
If we fail, then let us fail heroically
(or even better, stoichiometrically)

On Sat, 04 Sep 2004 20:23:46 -0700, David wrote:

Deep rips? How's 'bout using a bandsaw??

I've got a 3HP motor in the cabinet saw, but only a tired hamster in
the bandsaw. I also get better finish from the circular.

Good idea though. maybe I should accelerate the 18" bandsaw plan...
--
Smert' spamionam

On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 02:24:33 +0100, Andy Dingley
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Well I got a 30" bladed PTO-driven saw....

Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.

I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?

How do other people handle deep rips ?

************************************************** ***
the snappy ones are the best

Aside from the depth of cut are there advantages to a larger bleade?
given the same arbor speed the teeth would hit the wood somewhat
faster, how much I don't know, enough to matter I don't know.

I need to buy a dado set for my table saw and my saw has a 1"arbor. I
want to find a used set to save a few bucks. most of the ones I see
are 10" or 12" sets. My saw has a three horse motor. dose anyone see
a problem with buying a large dado set?

Thanks russ

No advantage in my mind. No problem either, just might cost a lot and be
more capacity than you need. I use an 8" Forrest on my 10" saw, 3HP. Would
not need anything larger, since I rarely do anything deeper then 1 inch.

Forrest will bore the hole to 1" on the 8" set..not sure what the cost is vs
buyig a 1" with 10" diamiter.

I guess it all depends on what you need.

"russ" wrote in message
om...
Aside from the depth of cut are there advantages to a larger bleade?
given the same arbor speed the teeth would hit the wood somewhat
faster, how much I don't know, enough to matter I don't know.

I need to buy a dado set for my table saw and my saw has a 1"arbor. I
want to find a used set to save a few bucks. most of the ones I see
are 10" or 12" sets. My saw has a three horse motor. dose anyone see
a problem with buying a large dado set?

Thanks russ

On Mon, 06 Sep 2004 08:09:13 +0800, Old Nick
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 02:24:33 +0100, Andy Dingley
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Well I got a 30" bladed PTO-driven saw....

But clean cuts it does not do....
************************************************** ***
I know I am wrong about just about everything. So I
am not going to listen when I am told I am wrong about
the things I know I am right about.

On Mon, 06 Sep 2004 10:51:24 GMT, "Dave in WA"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Hey! Where are you in WA, man? Big state, not many people!

No advantage in my mind. No problem either, just might cost a lot and be

************************************************** ***
I know I am wrong about just about everything. So I
am not going to listen when I am told I am wrong about
the things I know I am right about.

Finding a 1" dado set used is gonna be a looong time
in waiting...

Freud sells their 10" dado set with 1"
arbor for "around" $130 and it's a very nice dado that
will last a life time or two...


russ wrote:


I need to buy a dado set for my table saw and my saw has a 1"arbor. I
want to find a used set to save a few bucks. most of the ones I see
are 10" or 12" sets. My saw has a three horse motor. dose anyone see
a problem with buying a large dado set?

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?

Indeed.

How do other people handle deep rips ?

Bandsaw. But the tallest stock I can rip is a measly 14.5"
SH