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#1
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How to destroy a BRAND NEW set of planer blades
I have had a Dewalt planer for about 3 years now. I love the thing. About a
week ago I finally got around to changing the blades for the 1st time. Wow what a difference that made. It is funny how something like tool sharpness can slowly degrade over time and you don't really notce a difference until you go to fix it then you ask your self why you didn't do it sooner. Next time maybe I won't wait 3 years. (Table saw blade is next) Anyway, back to my story. I am building a sofa table for my Brother for a wedding present. The top is figured maple (12" x 48"), and I routed a groove around the perimeter of the top, set in one inch. I filled this with black epoxy for a high contrast inlay detail. After the epoxy cured, I sent the top through my planer about 8 times with pretty light cuts to level it and remove the very top layer that had a few bubbles. By the time I was done, the planer had two grooves set into the knives where the the inlay strip ran along both edges of the table top. So now when I run a full width board through., it leaves two raised bumps about 0.020 thick. I am pretty sure that I can remove them through a sharpening, but it sucks anyway. I didn't guess that the epoxy would have been that hard and/or abrasive to cause that kind of damage after just a few passes. Oh well, live and learn. Next time I will sand instead of planing, or run it through during that magical time window when the epoxy is mostly cured, but not full hard yet (instead of letting it full cure over night.) The table by the way is turning out awesome. I painted the leg asembly satin black and the combination of the light Maple top, black legs, and black trim on top is very impressive. (this is not really my typical style of furniture, I ussualy don't go for paint. But, my brother is more into modern design, so that is what led me here.) I'll post a few pictures on my webpage after the wedding, so I don't give away the surprise. -- Joe in Denver my woodworking website: http://www.the-wildings.com/shop/ |
#2
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Hehe, that story reminds me of when I ran some high quality
5 or 7 ply baltic birch through my jointer. My jointer knives subsequently had several small grooves from the adhesive used in the plywood... You never realize that adhesives are that hard... :-) Tim Henrion Joe Wilding wrote: I have had a Dewalt planer for about 3 years now. I love the thing. About a week ago I finally got around to changing the blades for the 1st time. Wow what a difference that made. It is funny how something like tool sharpness can slowly degrade over time and you don't really notce a difference until you go to fix it then you ask your self why you didn't do it sooner. Next time maybe I won't wait 3 years. (Table saw blade is next) Anyway, back to my story. I am building a sofa table for my Brother for a wedding present. The top is figured maple (12" x 48"), and I routed a groove around the perimeter of the top, set in one inch. I filled this with black epoxy for a high contrast inlay detail. After the epoxy cured, I sent the top through my planer about 8 times with pretty light cuts to level it and remove the very top layer that had a few bubbles. By the time I was done, the planer had two grooves set into the knives where the the inlay strip ran along both edges of the table top. So now when I run a full width board through., it leaves two raised bumps about 0.020 thick. I am pretty sure that I can remove them through a sharpening, but it sucks anyway. I didn't guess that the epoxy would have been that hard and/or abrasive to cause that kind of damage after just a few passes. Oh well, live and learn. Next time I will sand instead of planing, or run it through during that magical time window when the epoxy is mostly cured, but not full hard yet (instead of letting it full cure over night.) The table by the way is turning out awesome. I painted the leg asembly satin black and the combination of the light Maple top, black legs, and black trim on top is very impressive. (this is not really my typical style of furniture, I ussualy don't go for paint. But, my brother is more into modern design, so that is what led me here.) I'll post a few pictures on my webpage after the wedding, so I don't give away the surprise. |
#3
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Tim Henrion writes:
Hehe, that story reminds me of when I ran some high quality 5 or 7 ply baltic birch through my jointer. My jointer knives subsequently had several small grooves from the adhesive used in the plywood... You never realize that adhesives are that hard... :-) They're hard, but not that hard. Many are much more abrasive than wood, so they grind away really quickly. Don't know if that's the case with epoxy, but it is with a bunch of the adhesives use with manufactured wood products (plywood, OSB, MDF and such fun things). Charlie Self "A conservative is a man with two perfectly good legs who, however, has never learned to walk forward." Franklin D. Roosevelt, radio address, Oct. 26, 1939 |
#4
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Thanks for sharing your experience before I tried something
like that!!! "Joe Wilding" wrote in message ... I have had a Dewalt planer for about 3 years now. I love the thing. About a week ago I finally got around to changing the blades for the 1st time. Wow what a difference that made. It is funny how something like tool sharpness can slowly degrade over time and you don't really notce a difference until you go to fix it then you ask your self why you didn't do it sooner. Next time maybe I won't wait 3 years. (Table saw blade is next) Anyway, back to my story. I am building a sofa table for my Brother for a wedding present. The top is figured maple (12" x 48"), and I routed a groove around the perimeter of the top, set in one inch. I filled this with black epoxy for a high contrast inlay detail. After the epoxy cured, I sent the top through my planer about 8 times with pretty light cuts to level it and remove the very top layer that had a few bubbles. By the time I was done, the planer had two grooves set into the knives where the the inlay strip ran along both edges of the table top. So now when I run a full width board through., it leaves two raised bumps about 0.020 thick. I am pretty sure that I can remove them through a sharpening, but it sucks anyway. I didn't guess that the epoxy would have been that hard and/or abrasive to cause that kind of damage after just a few passes. Oh well, live and learn. Next time I will sand instead of planing, or run it through during that magical time window when the epoxy is mostly cured, but not full hard yet (instead of letting it full cure over night.) The table by the way is turning out awesome. I painted the leg asembly satin black and the combination of the light Maple top, black legs, and black trim on top is very impressive. (this is not really my typical style of furniture, I ussualy don't go for paint. But, my brother is more into modern design, so that is what led me here.) I'll post a few pictures on my webpage after the wedding, so I don't give away the surprise. -- Joe in Denver my woodworking website: http://www.the-wildings.com/shop/ |
#5
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In article , Joe Wilding
wrote: So now when I run a full width board through., it leaves two raised bumps about 0.020 thick. I am pretty sure that I can remove them through a sharpening, but it sucks anyway. Can you offset the blades so that the notches don't line up? If so, then the other blades will remove the notches left by the other blades. Kevin |
#6
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Yeah, that works on jonters for small knicks.
Two problems he 1. The notches are 1/2 inch wide. 2. the dewalt knives are indexed with screws in holes and slota, so there is virtually no lateral adjustablility in the knives. Thanks for the advice though. Joe "Kevin Craig" wrote in message ... In article , Joe Wilding wrote: So now when I run a full width board through., it leaves two raised bumps about 0.020 thick. I am pretty sure that I can remove them through a sharpening, but it sucks anyway. Can you offset the blades so that the notches don't line up? If so, then the other blades will remove the notches left by the other blades. Kevin |
#7
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In article , Joe Wilding
wrote: Yeah, that works on jonters for small knicks. Two problems he 1. The notches are 1/2 inch wide. Ahhhh... I was thinking it was simple glue line notches. 2. the dewalt knives are indexed with screws in holes and slota, so there is virtually no lateral adjustablility in the knives. Shame. Ya suppose they make more money selling blades that way? :-/ Thanks for the advice though. As it turns out, it wasn't advice for you, but maybe a useful suggestion for someone else who has a different setup. Sorry about the knives, and good luck on the project! Kevin |
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