Hi. Just got one of these, and for the most part love it. I will be
converting to 220 as soon as possible, but in the mean time have a
problem I am hoping somebody can help with. I should start by saying
that any experience in woodworking is a bit dated, and this is my
first table saw.

The problem is that I need to align the blade with the dados in the
table top, and there is nothing in the manual about making this
adjustment. When the blade is at full height, I am getting a full
1/16" difference between the front and rear; needless to say, it makes
cutting wider stock a bit interesting. My first cuts were on some
1x10 pine (wife needed something for a project). I made it through
these just fine but only by cutting half way through, flipping the
board, and finishing the cut. I'm just glad that accuracy was not
important on these boards!

I will be calling Jet tomorrow, but was hoping somebody here might
have some advice. I've already had the saw back to the dealer once
(trunion gear was broken out of the box); while they were nice about
it I don't relish the thought of disassembling the whole mess yet
again for another trip to the shop.

Thanks

First off you should go buy a good tablesaw book - I recommend the one by
Kelly Mehler and/or Jim Tolpin. I have them both and they are both very
good. I'd go with the Mehler book if I chose just one.

In these books they cover extensively the proper way to align a tablesaw, so
if you get the book you'll be set.

At any rate, aligning the blade parallel with the miter slot isn't too
tough, IMO. To check it however, make sure you are using the same tooth on
the saw blade. I have an alignment tool called the TS-Aligner, Jr. (do a
google search for the website), which employs a jig and a dial indicator.
This allows very precise measurement of the alignment. I've also used a
simple combination square, referenced off the miter slot, to measure the
difference. Either way, measure a tooth in the front of the blade slot, and
then rotate the blade by hand and measure the same tooth in the back. If
you don't rotate the blade, any variations in the blade itself, etc. will
appear to be variations in the miter slot/blade alignment.

If your saw is truly out of alignment, it is definitely NOT a cause to
return the saw. You need to unbolt the cast iron top from the saw and move
it. On my Unisaw there are 4 bolts that do this. Sure, it's a pain, but it
isn't really that difficult. I'm sure your manual covers this.

Mike

Different breed of cat. Unisaw, adjust the cast iron top. Contractor's
saw, you leave the table in place and loosen the trunion on the
underside of the table top, adjust and retighten. Little awkward
working through the blade slot and the openings around the motor from
the back but not a big deal.

bob g.

Mike in Mystic wrote:


If your saw is truly out of alignment, it is definitely NOT a cause to
return the saw. You need to unbolt the cast iron top from the saw and move
it. On my Unisaw there are 4 bolts that do this. Sure, it's a pain, but it
isn't really that difficult. I'm sure your manual covers this.

Mike

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:02:01 GMT, "Mike in Mystic"
wrote:

First off you should go buy a good tablesaw book - I recommend the one by
Kelly Mehler and/or Jim Tolpin. I have them both and they are both very
good. I'd go with the Mehler book if I chose just one.

Thanks for the advice. I have ordered one (Mehler) and borrowed a
couple of videos from the library on the subject. Great stuff; I may
have to buy a copy as they cover a lot more than the table saw setup.

Thanks again.

David

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 09:58:44 -0500, Robert Galloway
wrote:

Different breed of cat. Unisaw, adjust the cast iron top. Contractor's
saw, you leave the table in place and loosen the trunion on the
underside of the table top, adjust and retighten. Little awkward
working through the blade slot and the openings around the motor from
the back but not a big deal.

Thanks, Bob. That's what I needed to know. The silly manual doesn't
talk about how to do this one adjustment; it gives everything else,
though.

David