I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time. I was
using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out for a
wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut. It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions, tension,
etc. I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure that there
is clearance for the wood to pass under it. I have purchased a new
blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the saw
not to cut?

On 1/8/2020 3:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I was
using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out for a
wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions, tension,
etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure that there
is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have purchased a new
blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the saw
not to cut?

I assume that you can get the workpiece in contact with the wood.
What happens when the teeth contact the wood? Do they continue to "cut"
or do they stall out and stop.

Obviously, if they continue to move against the wood but do not cut,
you're mistaken and are trying to cut a piece of carbide steel rather
than wood.

OTOH, if the blade is stalling out, something in the drive train is
amiss: tension, drive belt slipping, tires on the saw slipping?

If you ARE at least scoring the workpiece with the bandsaw with the
existing wood blade, go ahead in install and tension the new blade. The
old blade may be ruined and you forgot about it or the previous owner
(if there was one) did it and you just don't know of the particular problem.

Keep us all posted. It's an interesting problem.

On 1/8/2020 5:05 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I
was using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out
for a wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions,
tension, etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure
that there is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have
purchased a new blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may
be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the
saw not to cut?

I assume that you can get the workpiece in contact with the wood.
What happens when the teeth contact the wood?Â* Do they continue to "cut"
or do they stall out and stop.

Obviously, if they continue to move against the wood but do not cut,
you're mistaken and are trying to cut a piece of carbide steel rather
than wood.

OTOH, if the blade is stalling out, something in the drive train is
amiss:Â* tension, drive belt slipping, tires on the saw slipping?

If you ARE at least scoring the workpiece with the bandsaw with the
existing wood blade, go ahead in install and tension the new blade.Â* The
old blade may be ruined and you forgot about it or the previous owner
(if there was one) did it and you just don't know of the particular
problem.

Keep us all posted.Â* It's an interesting problem.

I have several small pieces that are left overs from a picture frame.
When I start cutting from the pointed end of the miter, the saw cuts
into the wood it reaches a point and then will go no further. The blade
seems to be moving.

This weekend, I will install the new blade and see if that corrects the
problem

On Wed, 8 Jan 2020 20:23:39 -0500, knuttle
wrote:

On 1/8/2020 5:05 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I
was using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out
for a wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions,
tension, etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure
that there is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have
purchased a new blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may
be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the
saw not to cut?

I assume that you can get the workpiece in contact with the wood.
What happens when the teeth contact the wood?Â* Do they continue to "cut"
or do they stall out and stop.

Obviously, if they continue to move against the wood but do not cut,
you're mistaken and are trying to cut a piece of carbide steel rather
than wood.

OTOH, if the blade is stalling out, something in the drive train is
amiss:Â* tension, drive belt slipping, tires on the saw slipping?

If you ARE at least scoring the workpiece with the bandsaw with the
existing wood blade, go ahead in install and tension the new blade.Â* The
old blade may be ruined and you forgot about it or the previous owner
(if there was one) did it and you just don't know of the particular
problem.

Keep us all posted.Â* It's an interesting problem.

I have several small pieces that are left overs from a picture frame.
When I start cutting from the pointed end of the miter, the saw cuts
into the wood it reaches a point and then will go no further. The blade
seems to be moving.

This weekend, I will install the new blade and see if that corrects the
problem

Is there any possibility you can post a video of this somewhere so the
rest of us can get some idea what's going on?

On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 8:23:44 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On 1/8/2020 5:05 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I
was using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out
for a wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions,
tension, etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure
that there is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have
purchased a new blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may
be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the
saw not to cut?

I assume that you can get the workpiece in contact with the wood.
What happens when the teeth contact the wood?Â* Do they continue to "cut"
or do they stall out and stop.

Obviously, if they continue to move against the wood but do not cut,
you're mistaken and are trying to cut a piece of carbide steel rather
than wood.

OTOH, if the blade is stalling out, something in the drive train is
amiss:Â* tension, drive belt slipping, tires on the saw slipping?

If you ARE at least scoring the workpiece with the bandsaw with the
existing wood blade, go ahead in install and tension the new blade.Â* The
old blade may be ruined and you forgot about it or the previous owner
(if there was one) did it and you just don't know of the particular
problem.

Keep us all posted.Â* It's an interesting problem.

I have several small pieces that are left overs from a picture frame.
When I start cutting from the pointed end of the miter, the saw cuts
into the wood it reaches a point and then will go no further. The blade
seems to be moving.

How far into the wood does it cut? If it only goes a couple of inches,
then maybe...

In your OP you said "It is almost like pushing the wood into a wall."

On my bandsaw there is an insert plate around the blade. That plate is not
perfectly flush with the bandsaw table. It is below the table by about a 32nd.

Sometimes the wood, especially small pieces, gets caught on that little lip
and stops - like it's hitting a wall - once the end is about 2" past the
blade. I have to lift the wood slightly to raise it over the lip and move
it forward.

Just a thought.




This weekend, I will install the new blade and see if that corrects the
problem

On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 9:46:19 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 8:23:44 PM UTC-5, wrote:


the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.


In your OP you said "It is almost like pushing the wood into a wall."

an insert plate around the blade....
Sometimes the wood, especially small pieces, gets caught on that little lip
and stops - like it's hitting a wall -
Just a thought.

Just a thought or silly question.... Salvaged lumber? Is there a nail in your wood?

Sonny

knuttle writes:
On 1/8/2020 5:05 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.=C2=A0=

If you ARE at least scoring the workpiece with the bandsaw with the=20
existing wood blade, go ahead in install and tension the new blade.=C2=A0=
The=20
old blade may be ruined and you forgot about it or the previous owner=20
(if there was one) did it and you just don't know of the particular=20
problem.
=20
Keep us all posted.=C2=A0 It's an interesting problem.

I have several small pieces that are left overs from a picture frame.=20
When I start cutting from the pointed end of the miter, the saw cuts=20
into the wood it reaches a point and then will go no further. The blade=20
seems to be moving.

Sounds like the stock is catching on the end of the insert. Check
to ensure it is flush to the table.

On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 7:23:44 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On 1/8/2020 5:05 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/8/2020 3:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I
was using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out
for a wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions,
tension, etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure
that there is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have
purchased a new blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may
be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the
saw not to cut?

I assume that you can get the workpiece in contact with the wood.
What happens when the teeth contact the wood?Â* Do they continue to "cut"
or do they stall out and stop.

Obviously, if they continue to move against the wood but do not cut,
you're mistaken and are trying to cut a piece of carbide steel rather
than wood.

OTOH, if the blade is stalling out, something in the drive train is
amiss:Â* tension, drive belt slipping, tires on the saw slipping?

If you ARE at least scoring the workpiece with the bandsaw with the
existing wood blade, go ahead in install and tension the new blade.Â* The
old blade may be ruined and you forgot about it or the previous owner
(if there was one) did it and you just don't know of the particular
problem.

Keep us all posted.Â* It's an interesting problem.

I have several small pieces that are left overs from a picture frame.
When I start cutting from the pointed end of the miter, the saw cuts
into the wood it reaches a point and then will go no further. The blade
seems to be moving.

This weekend, I will install the new blade and see if that corrects the
problem

Could you be hitting a staple in the picture frame used to secure the miter joint? Try cutting a known piece of new wood to see if you encounter the same stall.

replying to knuttle, Monte wrote:
I am going to start with the obvious first the teeth the hook (point) is down
towards the table. Wood working blades are generally fairly course often 3 or
4 teeth per inch about 10 max. I have some good brand name blades that
worthless there is no set in the teeth. The blade speed for wood is generally
faster, probably does not apply here as you have a table top saw.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...aw-823045-.htm

On 1/8/20 2:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time. I was
using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out for a
wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut. It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions, tension,
etc. I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure that there
is clearance for the wood to pass under it. I have purchased a new
blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the saw
not to cut?

I know you mentioned the blade guard was clear, but more times than I
care to admit, I've had my guard raised enough to clear, but a setscrew
on the back hangs down about 1/8" below and catches the wood causing a
WTF? moment. Ditto for the table insert.

-BR

On 1/16/2020 10:51 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/8/20 2:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I was
using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out for a
wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions, tension,
etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure that there
is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have purchased a new
blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the saw
not to cut?

I know you mentioned the blade guard was clear, but more times than I
care to admit, I've had my guard raised enough to clear, but a setscrew
on the back hangs down about 1/8" below and catches the wood causing a
WTF? moment. Ditto for the table insert.

-BR

OP: I replaced the blade and realized the speed of the saw was set to
slow. Made some adjustments and now every thing is working properly.

On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 12:40:28 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On 1/16/2020 10:51 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 1/8/20 2:31 PM, knuttle wrote:
I have an older table top bandsaw that I have used for some time.Â* I was
using a fine metal cutting blade on the saw, but changed it out for a
wood cutting blade for an upcoming project.

With the metal cutting blade every thing was fine, but when I switched
the wood cutting blade would not cut.Â*Â* It is almost like pushing the
wood into a wall.

I have check every thing I could think of ie teeth directions, tension,
etc.Â* I have checked the height of the blade guide to insure that there
is clearance for the wood to pass under it.Â*Â* I have purchased a new
blade but not installed it yet thinking the that may be the problem.

Is there any thing else I should be considering that would cause the saw
not to cut?

I know you mentioned the blade guard was clear, but more times than I
care to admit, I've had my guard raised enough to clear, but a setscrew
on the back hangs down about 1/8" below and catches the wood causing a
WTF? moment. Ditto for the table insert.

-BR

OP: I replaced the blade and realized the speed of the saw was set to
slow. Made some adjustments and now every thing is working properly.

I'm glad you fixed it. Not sure how a slow blade would make the wood
seem like it was being "pushed into a wall", but as long as it's working
that's all that counts.