In article , "Cyrille de Brébisson" wrote:
Hello,

I was wondering how you knowledgeable wood working veterans were cleaning
your table or band saw tables (I imagine it would also work for jointers and
other power tools)?

Mostly, I clean mine by brushing sawdust onto the floor.

I imagine that a "read to use" table should be shinny and slick, but how do
you do it?

Comes that way from the factory.

which products? do you sand it?

Not unless it somehow gets rust on it.

how do you make it slick?

Johnson's Paste Wax.

ps: while I am out cleaning stuff, how do you clean your carbide tipped saw
blades?

Washing soda (sodium carbonate, Na2CO3). Dissolve about 1/4 cup (60ml +/-) in
a quart (liter) of warm water in a shallow pan. Lay the blade in the water.
Watch the gunk float off of the blade. Allow to soak for five minutes. Scrub
lightly with a nylon or brass brush, if needed to remove stubborn gunk. Rinse
with warm water, and dry with a towel.

Cheap.
Fast.
Easy.
Safe.
Environmentally benign.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Hello,

I was wondering how you knowledgeable wood working veterans were cleaning
your table or band saw tables (I imagine it would also work for jointers and
other power tools)?

I imagine that a "read to use" table should be shinny and slick, but how do
you do it? which products? do you sand it? how do you make it slick?

ps: while I am out cleaning stuff, how do you clean your carbide tipped saw
blades?

thanks for the info!

cyrille

Cyrille de Brébisson wrote:

Hello,

I was wondering how you knowledgeable wood working veterans were cleaning
your table or band saw tables (I imagine it would also work for jointers and
other power tools)?

My power tools are kept outside, under tarps, in SoCal which means the
table tops require more maintenance than most.

I simply spray WD40 all over the surface, then sand the top using a ROS
equipped with 150 grit paper.

Use lots of paper towels to wipe up the used WD40, then respray and
repeat sanding.

Finally wipe surface clean and coat with Johnsons paste wax.

May not be the best, but it works for me.

Lew

"Cyrille de Brébisson" wrote in message
...

I was wondering how you knowledgeable wood working veterans were cleaning
your table or band saw tables (I imagine it would also work for jointers
and other power tools)?


I use an automotive type buffer and a paste buffing compound that you would
find in an auto parts store. When I get it cleaned I apply several coats of
a good paste wax and buff each coat. It lasts a long time if you don't set
the beer/pop cans on it. RM~

I'll have to try the washing soda. I usually use Brakleen for my
blades with great results.

Setting a "pop" can or otherwise on any of my power tools
could result in serious bodily injury.



Rob Mills wrote:


I use an automotive type buffer and a paste buffing compound that you would
find in an auto parts store. When I get it cleaned I apply several coats of
a good paste wax and buff each coat. It lasts a long time if you don't set
the beer/pop cans on it. RM~

Pat Barber wrote:
Setting a "pop" can or otherwise on any of my power tools
could result in serious bodily injury.



Rob Mills wrote:


I use an automotive type buffer and a paste buffing compound that you would
find in an auto parts store. When I get it cleaned I apply several coats of
a good paste wax and buff each coat. It lasts a long time if you don't set
the beer/pop cans on it. RM~



I was out one day, and had a contractor friend send in a couple guys to
put my shop ceiling up. Yeah, right. They halfway cocked the job up
(difficult with OSB, but they did), and I came back to find two rusty
rings on my Unisaw cast iron extension. The damned saw had a long
extension with a melamine surface, and there was about 28' of pretty
much unobstructed base cabinet top they could have used just two steps
or so away.

I was so angry I was spraying spit (away from the Unisaw), and
instructed him to keep the two arseholes off my property forever. I
also knocked $100 of his bill.

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 20:29:44 GMT, "Cyrille de Brébisson" wrote:

Hello,

I was wondering how you knowledgeable wood working veterans were cleaning
your table or band saw tables (I imagine it would also work for jointers and
other power tools)?

I imagine that a "read to use" table should be shinny and slick, but how do
you do it? which products? do you sand it? how do you make it slick?

ps: while I am out cleaning stuff, how do you clean your carbide tipped saw
blades?

thanks for the info!

cyrille

I have to clean my bandsaw table every couple of weeks... I cut a lot of green
bowl blanks and it gets sap on the surface...

I spray it with "Awesome" concentrated cleaner from the local dollar store and
go have a cup of coffee...
When I come back, the sap and other crud wipes off and I put a few thin coats of
Johnson's wax on it and it's good to go..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Best to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I use kerosene to
clean the surface, then follow up with Johnsons Paste wax and buff.

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 20:29:44 GMT, "Cyrille de Brébisson"
wrote:

Hello,

I was wondering how you knowledgeable wood working veterans were cleaning
your table or band saw tables (I imagine it would also work for jointers and
other power tools)?

I imagine that a "read to use" table should be shinny and slick, but how do
you do it? which products? do you sand it? how do you make it slick?

ps: while I am out cleaning stuff, how do you clean your carbide tipped saw
blades?

thanks for the info!

cyrille

Mac, I just use SWMBO's spray-on oven cleaner. Works a treat on router
bits, blades etc. It doesn't affect metal, just dissolves gunk. I haven't
come across "awesome" - maybe its similar?.

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:48:10 +1200, "Bill D" wrote:

Mac, I just use SWMBO's spray-on oven cleaner. Works a treat on router
bits, blades etc. It doesn't affect metal, just dissolves gunk. I haven't
come across "awesome" - maybe its similar?.

I actually found out about Awesome in an RV group.. very popular to get rid of
the dreaded "black streaks"..

I don't think it's as "powerful" as oven cleaner, but since I haven't used oven
cleaner in a lot of years, it's probably not nearly as strong as it used to be..
someone could get hurt with it then.. lol

For some reason, although it says "as seen on tv" on the spray bottle, it only
seems to be available in dollar/99 cent stores... our local dollar store uses it
to clean the store and swears by it....

It seems to be very general purpose, cheap and effective...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac, I had to smile at your comment that someone might get hurt with Oven
cleaner if it is too strong. It brought back a memory of when I first used
it. I pushed the spray knob, nothing happened, so what did I do? Well
naturally I turned it around to have a look at the offending nozzle, peered
at it over my glasses and for some inexplicable reason my finger, which was
still on the go button, pushed down!



WOW did it sting. With the good eye I managed to read the instruction which
said "avoid getting it in your eyes and if you do wash out with water
immediately. I did that and the pain subsided over an hour or so.



I learnt a number of valuable lessons from this experience.



Thanks for the memories!!!



Cheers Bill D

Don't know if it's rumor or not, but I have read that oven cleaner can
weaken the brazed joint for carbide teeth on a saw blade.

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:48:10 +1200, "Bill D"
wrote:

Mac, I just use SWMBO's spray-on oven cleaner. Works a treat on router
bits, blades etc. It doesn't affect metal, just dissolves gunk. I haven't
come across "awesome" - maybe its similar?.

On Fri, 19 Aug 2005 11:47:57 +1200, "Bill D" wrote:

Mac, I had to smile at your comment that someone might get hurt with Oven
cleaner if it is too strong. It brought back a memory of when I first used
it. I pushed the spray knob, nothing happened, so what did I do? Well
naturally I turned it around to have a look at the offending nozzle, peered
at it over my glasses and for some inexplicable reason my finger, which was
still on the go button, pushed down!



WOW did it sting. With the good eye I managed to read the instruction which
said "avoid getting it in your eyes and if you do wash out with water
immediately. I did that and the pain subsided over an hour or so.



I learnt a number of valuable lessons from this experience.



Thanks for the memories!!!



Cheers Bill D

OUCH!
I know that it used to say something about wearing gloves while using..
Stuff now has to be environmental and law suit safe, so it's mostly over priced
water..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Kind of like the bug killer I bought a while back. Instructions stated that
it was more effective if you could wet the bug thourouly with it. If I
wanted to drown the bug, I would have used the hose.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

OUCH!
I know that it used to say something about wearing gloves while using..
Stuff now has to be environmental and law suit safe, so it's mostly over
priced
water..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing