I have an area of 1200x600 table top that has a veneer design with different colours on a black background.
After pouring the dark veneers got really darker and are hardly seen, and some areas on the black look cloudy.
I want to rub back the resin so I can add lighter veneer replacing the dark ones and repour liquid glass resin hoping to get rid of the cloudy areas
What grade of paper do I need and how long do I wait for liquid glass to cure.
It has been 2 days since the first pour.

replying to Chris Alifragis, Iggy wrote:
Here's a great little video that seems to address your situation perfectly,
the need for thinning, leveling and torching. See YouTube: DIY- How to apply
"Liquid Glass" Epoxy Resin on almost any surface
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQrRVUarzPc

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On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 14:14:03 GMT, Iggy
m wrote:

replying to Chris Alifragis, Iggy wrote:
Here's a great little video that seems to address your situation perfectly,
the need for thinning, leveling and torching. See YouTube: DIY- How to apply
"Liquid Glass" Epoxy Resin on almost any surface
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQrRVUarzPc

Except that his question is how to remove it, not how to apply it.

"Chris Alifragis" wrote in message
...
I have an area of 1200x600 table top that has a veneer design with
different colours on a black background.
After pouring the dark veneers got really darker and are hardly seen, and
some areas on the black look cloudy.
I want to rub back the resin so I can add lighter veneer replacing the
dark ones and repour liquid glass resin hoping to get rid of the cloudy
areas
What grade of paper do I need and how long do I wait for liquid glass to
cure.
It has been 2 days since the first pour.

Cure depends upon what "liquid glass" is. It could be polyester resin in
which case it would be totally cured after 2 days, assuming it was catalyzed
properly. If it is epoxy, it would not be totally cured in that time but
would be sandable.

How coarse a grit? How thick is the resin? I used to use something around
#16 and a very open coat with polyester. Basically use whatever grit needed
to do the job but personally, I wouldn't even think about trying to sand it
off a veneered surface

replying to J. Clarke, Iggy wrote:
You are correct, thank you. I must have been distracted. I'll post another
answer.

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replying to Chris Alifragis, Iggy wrote:
Sorry about my first answer. But, I'd have to agree with dadiOH that sanding
could result in ruining the veneer. Therefore, I think I'd go with a heat gun
and a very gentle scraping of the problem areas. I'd then re-apply in those
areas with more heat gun use to let the fresh and cured bond and seal
together. I haven't done this and the above is just a theory, but I imagine
that is should work quite well and save you from scraping the whole top to
start completely over.

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