My filing cabinet/book shelves are almost complete.

I have finished installing the 5 pieces and have anchored all 5 pieces
to the wall. I also used the hex head washer head nuts and bolts,
intended for the purpose of decoratively fastening cabinets together, to
affix the center over head bridge cabinet to the outer tower book cases
as a redundant method of securing the center cabinet. The center
cabinet also has ears, which are on top and out of sight, which it hangs
on. It hung in place for a couple of days before I added any anchoring
screws.

I still need to build the shelves for the towers and attach a valance at
the top. And possibly illuminate the front of the 3 book case cabinets,
from a hidden slot in the valance, with ribbon LED lighting.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


One side of the structure before adding the center bridge cabinet.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And finally the appearance of the office from the entry way. You will
not actually see the book cases/file cabinets until you enter the room
and turn around to exit.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I still have not ruled out the rolling ladder. BUT I need to see how
this all works out in the interim. Anyway I have 3 customers waiting so
that should make the decision of the $1K ladder easier to swallow.

For certain a rolling ladder should make it easier to relocate when I
need to get into the file cabinets.

Thoughts?

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:33:06 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Thoughts?

OK, at this point, just a couple.

First, I love those veneers. A combination of water/mineral penetration combined with the quilting... beautiful. Great eye selecting that!

Second, on this pic:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Underneath the cabinets where the sides touch, there is a 3/4" inch or so opening on the sides on the underside. Are you planning some kind of trim to cover that?

Third, I don't understand the design element of the trims on either side of the bridge cabinet that is mounted on the face of the stiles. What I don't get is the curve; there are no lines like those small radii anywhere on the cabinets in that room from what I can tell. Is that finished?

Last, just a comment on the ladder. Seems like you have gone from standing on a step stool to a $1500 contraption and everything in between. Just a thought here, nothing more.

About 30 years or so ago I made a non-rolling ladder to go in a home legal library (which was the rage at that time for attorneys). The simplicity wouldn't befit the sophistication of your normal design, but it might do the trick and you could change it later with a masterpiece.

The sides were made of 1 1/4" hard maple about 5" wide, and the treads were 1" thick and 4" wide. Each tread was mortised into the sides about 3/8" on each side, but the mortise stopped (finished with a chisel) about 1" from the back of the ladder. The front of the tread was cut to match the angle of the ladder when mounted. I was originally concerned with weight of the ladder, but I only put in about 5 steps so that they could get up to a certain level and actually reach through the ladder to get a book. (That was pretty damn smart... but no my idea. My client had a drawing he made for me and he specified that he only needed to be about 4 feet off the floor and he could reach everything. So with the open upper part, it made access really easy to get things in and out of the shelves in front of you without moving the ladder. It cut down on the weight and was still plenty sturdy.

The rungs were secured with something like 3 1/2" wood screws (2) each, and glued with polyurethane, probably PL400 for subfloors as it is more elastic than regular adhesive. The screws were countersunk about 1/4" and the hole filled with whatever white hardwood dowel they had at the hardwood store where I bought the wood.

IIRC, the ladder was only about 18" wide. I bought 1" black gas pipe from a plumbing company that was cut to the size I needed, around 10-11 feet or so. The pipe was sanded, painted with a nice enamel, and secured at both ends by drilling a 1" hole into a piece of 2Xsomething that I routed an ogee pattern on its edges. The side piece was against he face of the cabinet, so all I had to do was make sure it stayed suspended since it wouldn't fall over when someone was on it. Lateral stress wasn't a problem. Nor was flex as the 1" gas pipe is pretty heavy stuff, and since the ladder was actually just leaning on it, you could feel movement, but not much.

The sides of the ladder had a hooks cut right into them so that they rode on the "rod" (gas pipe). No hardware! A simple solution since the ladder didn't weigh that much. To move the ladder, the client simply picked up the sides a bit near the bottom and slid it over the rod. I was able to get some rubber from somewhere and staple it the bottom of the sides where they hit the floor and it was really comfortable to be on. I thought he should have the spring loaded wheels, he thought that was overkill and didn't want tracks from wheels on his floor.

The project was clear coated by someone else. and it was finished. Built a prototype to get the ladder angles, the cut angles, and verify with the client how many steps he wanted. Drove the finished piece to the job and hooked it on the gas pipe and was finished.

On reflection, I would do a couple of things differently. I LIKED the over design, part mine and part his. Good collaborative effort added some nice touches. But the next one, I would groove the steps, not for traction, but to diffuse the look of the inevitable dirt and scratches the treads received from use. About 4 grooves would have done it, and I think it would have added a lot to the design/cosmetic element. Next, I would have found some kind of fancy pull type handle to mount to the ladder sides about 30" off the floor to assist in moving it. Something in a brushed brass would have complemented the subdued look of his library and been handy to boot. At 30" up, it would have been out of the way, and that's about where folks grabbed the ladder to move it.

OK. I'm done. I always think when kicking these things around it's a shame we can't meet for a gallon of coffee and scribble all over a sheaf of napkins!

Robert

On 5/4/2017 1:42 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:33:06 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Thoughts?

OK, at this point, just a couple.

First, I love those veneers. A combination of water/mineral
penetration combined with the quilting... beautiful. Great eye
selecting that!

Thank you.


Second, on this pic:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Underneath the cabinets where the sides touch, there is a 3/4" inch
or so opening on the sides on the underside. Are you planning some
kind of trim to cover that?

Yes! I needed to get this done first.


Third, I don't understand the design element of the trims on either
side of the bridge cabinet that is mounted on the face of the stiles.
What I don't get is the curve; there are no lines like those small
radii anywhere on the cabinets in that room from what I can tell. Is
that finished?

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The piece
is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight cut at the
bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately noticed it and
loved the detail.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/






Last, just a comment on the ladder. Seems like you have gone from
standing on a step stool to a $1500 contraption and everything in
between. Just a thought here, nothing more.

Yeah!



About 30 years or so ago I made a non-rolling ladder to go in a home
legal library (which was the rage at that time for attorneys). The
simplicity wouldn't befit the sophistication of your normal design,
but it might do the trick and you could change it later with a
masterpiece.

The sides were made of 1 1/4" hard maple about 5" wide, and the
treads were 1" thick and 4" wide. Each tread was mortised into the
sides about 3/8" on each side, but the mortise stopped (finished with
a chisel) about 1" from the back of the ladder. The front of the
tread was cut to match the angle of the ladder when mounted. I was
originally concerned with weight of the ladder, but I only put in
about 5 steps so that they could get up to a certain level and
actually reach through the ladder to get a book. (That was pretty
damn smart... but no my idea. My client had a drawing he made for me
and he specified that he only needed to be about 4 feet off the floor
and he could reach everything. So with the open upper part, it made
access really easy to get things in and out of the shelves in front
of you without moving the ladder. It cut down on the weight and was
still plenty sturdy.

The rungs were secured with something like 3 1/2" wood screws (2)
each, and glued with polyurethane, probably PL400 for subfloors as it
is more elastic than regular adhesive. The screws were countersunk
about 1/4" and the hole filled with whatever white hardwood dowel
they had at the hardwood store where I bought the wood.

IIRC, the ladder was only about 18" wide. I bought 1" black gas pipe
from a plumbing company that was cut to the size I needed, around
10-11 feet or so. The pipe was sanded, painted with a nice enamel,
and secured at both ends by drilling a 1" hole into a piece of
2Xsomething that I routed an ogee pattern on its edges. The side
piece was against he face of the cabinet, so all I had to do was make
sure it stayed suspended since it wouldn't fall over when someone was
on it. Lateral stress wasn't a problem. Nor was flex as the 1" gas
pipe is pretty heavy stuff, and since the ladder was actually just
leaning on it, you could feel movement, but not much.

The sides of the ladder had a hooks cut right into them so that they
rode on the "rod" (gas pipe). No hardware! A simple solution since
the ladder didn't weigh that much. To move the ladder, the client
simply picked up the sides a bit near the bottom and slid it over the
rod. I was able to get some rubber from somewhere and staple it the
bottom of the sides where they hit the floor and it was really
comfortable to be on. I thought he should have the spring loaded
wheels, he thought that was overkill and didn't want tracks from
wheels on his floor.

The project was clear coated by someone else. and it was finished.
Built a prototype to get the ladder angles, the cut angles, and
verify with the client how many steps he wanted. Drove the finished
piece to the job and hooked it on the gas pipe and was finished.

On reflection, I would do a couple of things differently. I LIKED
the over design, part mine and part his. Good collaborative effort
added some nice touches. But the next one, I would groove the steps,
not for traction, but to diffuse the look of the inevitable dirt and
scratches the treads received from use. About 4 grooves would have
done it, and I think it would have added a lot to the design/cosmetic
element. Next, I would have found some kind of fancy pull type
handle to mount to the ladder sides about 30" off the floor to assist
in moving it. Something in a brushed brass would have complemented
the subdued look of his library and been handy to boot. At 30" up,
it would have been out of the way, and that's about where folks
grabbed the ladder to move it.





Thank you Robert.
I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if this will be heavy and
If I build this out of white oak it will take approximately 12 linear
feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will probably be too heavy to be moving
around every time I need to use it.

Alternatively, and very similar to what you mentioned, in the very
detailed explanation above, similar to the pic below. I saw this in
Rock Port, TX about 5 years ago. Simple.

I have given thought to your method of only putting in enough steps to
get you where you are going, on the bottom end. Dadoing the steps at
the appropriate angle, gluing and screwing. And ultimately moving the
unit to hang on the adjacent wall.

I like the idea of the groves in the steps.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Thank you again for your thoughts.




OK. I'm done. I always think when kicking these things around it's
a shame we can't meet for a gallon of coffee and scribble all over a
sheaf of napkins!

Yeah! We should do that. Kim and I are itching to get away for the
weekend sooner than later.

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:14:01 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The piece
is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight cut at the
bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately noticed it and
loved the detail.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Those pics make it look much better. Camera angle/perspective has a lot to do with these things.

Thank you Robert.
I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if this will be heavy and
If I build this out of white oak it will take approximately 12 linear
feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will probably be too heavy to be moving
around every time I need to use it.

4X4s.... Whuuutt??? Why so heavy? I dont' remember that room being that large, and since it will be for light use at best, why so stout? If you think about it, once things get settled into their places on the shelves, then you probably won't be using the ladder but once a month. All the things you regularly access will be put within easy reach, no?


Alternatively, and very similar to what you mentioned, in the very
detailed explanation above, similar to the pic below. I saw this in
Rock Port, TX about 5 years ago. Simple.

I have given thought to your method of only putting in enough steps to
get you where you are going, on the bottom end. Dadoing the steps at
the appropriate angle, gluing and screwing. And ultimately moving the
unit to hang on the adjacent wall.

I like the idea of the groves in the steps.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Thank you again for your thoughts.

Well, just food for thought. I think it is pretty generous of you to take the time to post your work in progress pics, answer questions on your design elements and build procedures. Likewise the fact that you answer any questions that are asked.

OK. I'm done. I always think when kicking these things around it's
a shame we can't meet for a gallon of coffee and scribble all over a
sheaf of napkins!

Yeah! We should do that. Kim and I are itching to get away for the
weekend sooner than later.

Us, too. My knee is coming along, but MUCH slower than I thought it would. Now I am being told I am lucky that I /might/ not have to have surgery on my knee. It still hurts like hell a lot, and I am still walking with a cane. When I over do it, I really pay for it. BUT, it is better than it was..

I agree (so does Kathy!), a get together sooner than later is an excellent idea.

Robert

" writes:
On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:14:01 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The piece=20
is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight cut at the=20
bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately noticed it and=
=20
loved the detail.
=20
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Those pics make it look much better. Camera angle/perspective has a lot to =
do with these things.

Thank you Robert.
I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if this will be heavy and=
=20
If I build this out of white oak it will take approximately 12 linear=20
feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will probably be too heavy to be moving=20
around every time I need to use it.

4X4s.... Whuuutt???

four quarters (nominally 1").

On 5/4/2017 11:39 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:14:01 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The
piece is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight
cut at the bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately
noticed it and loved the detail.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Those pics make it look much better. Camera angle/perspective has a
lot to do with these things.

Thank you Robert. I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if
this will be heavy and If I build this out of white oak it will
take approximately 12 linear feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will
probably be too heavy to be moving around every time I need to use
it.

4X4s.... Whuuutt??? Why so heavy? I dont' remember that room being
that large, and since it will be for light use at best, why so stout?
If you think about it, once things get settled into their places on
the shelves, then you probably won't be using the ladder but once a
month. All the things you regularly access will be put within easy
reach, no?


Four Quarter, 4/4 not 4x4



Alternatively, and very similar to what you mentioned, in the very
detailed explanation above, similar to the pic below. I saw this
in Rock Port, TX about 5 years ago. Simple.

I have given thought to your method of only putting in enough steps
to get you where you are going, on the bottom end. Dadoing the
steps at the appropriate angle, gluing and screwing. And
ultimately moving the unit to hang on the adjacent wall.

I like the idea of the groves in the steps.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Thank you again for your thoughts.

Well, just food for thought. I think it is pretty generous of you to
take the time to post your work in progress pics, answer questions on
your design elements and build procedures. Likewise the fact that
you answer any questions that are asked.



OK. I'm done. I always think when kicking these things around
it's a shame we can't meet for a gallon of coffee and scribble
all over a sheaf of napkins!

Yeah! We should do that. Kim and I are itching to get away for
the weekend sooner than later.

Us, too. My knee is coming along, but MUCH slower than I thought it
would. Now I am being told I am lucky that I /might/ not have to
have surgery on my knee. It still hurts like hell a lot, and I am
still walking with a cane. When I over do it, I really pay for it.
BUT, it is better than it was.

I agree (so does Kathy!), a get together sooner than later is an
excellent idea.

Yes! Looking for a ride on the river walk. And speaking of which,
Bryan and Hannah will be doing the same this weekend in San Antonio.
They are having engagement pictures taken.



Robert


I know it is still too early for your knee to not be swelling but down
the road if you find that it is still painful and you "thnk the swelling
is gone" you might ask for a steroid shot in the butt.
I was given one as a precaution 16 years ago and while it did not solve
the issue I was having, it cured my aching knee and big toe, both of
which hurt for quite some time before the shot. AND have not hurt since.

On 5/4/2017 1:03 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
" writes:
On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:14:01 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The piece=20
is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight cut at the=20
bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately noticed it and=
=20
loved the detail.
=20
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Those pics make it look much better. Camera angle/perspective has a lot to =
do with these things.

Thank you Robert.
I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if this will be heavy and=
=20
If I build this out of white oak it will take approximately 12 linear=20
feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will probably be too heavy to be moving=20
around every time I need to use it.

4X4s.... Whuuutt???

four quarters (nominally 1").


Kind'a makes you smile when you catch the expert off guard, huh? LOL

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 5/4/2017 1:03 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
" writes:
On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:14:01 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The piece=20
is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight cut at the=20
bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately noticed it and=
=20
loved the detail.
=20
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Those pics make it look much better. Camera angle/perspective has a lot to =
do with these things.

Thank you Robert.
I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if this will be heavy and=
=20
If I build this out of white oak it will take approximately 12 linear=20
feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will probably be too heavy to be moving=20
around every time I need to use it.

4X4s.... Whuuutt???

four quarters (nominally 1").


Kind'a makes you smile when you catch the expert off guard, huh? LOL

I'm as guilty as anyone with respect to reading quickly and making
assumptions :-)

On 5/4/2017 2:10 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 5/4/2017 1:03 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
" writes:
On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:14:01 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

It is something I did on another project about 5 years ago. The piece=20
is intended to hide the union of the 3 pieces. A straight cut at the=20
bottom just did not look good. The customer immediately noticed it and=
=20
loved the detail.
=20
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Those pics make it look much better. Camera angle/perspective has a lot to =
do with these things.

Thank you Robert.
I am leaning to the thoughts of using rollers if this will be heavy and=
=20
If I build this out of white oak it will take approximately 12 linear=20
feet of 4/4, 1x8 s4s. That will probably be too heavy to be moving=20
around every time I need to use it.

4X4s.... Whuuutt???

four quarters (nominally 1").


Kind'a makes you smile when you catch the expert off guard, huh? LOL

I'm as guilty as anyone with respect to reading quickly and making
assumptions :-)


As am I . LOL

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:33:06 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
My filing cabinet/book shelves are almost complete.


Thoughts?

Beautiful work!

On 5/4/2017 6:26 PM, Michael wrote:
On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 1:33:06 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
My filing cabinet/book shelves are almost complete.


Thoughts?

Beautiful work!


Thank you Michael!

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 1:49:25 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Kind'a makes you smile when you catch the expert off guard, huh? LOL

OK... I am going to have to start making sure I have my glasses on when reading/typing. It's that time more and more these days.

But I have to admit, I was thinking "what in the world is Leon going to do with the 4x4s? No wonder he wants to make sure he has wheels!"

Robert

On 5/5/2017 2:32 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 1:49:25 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Kind'a makes you smile when you catch the expert off guard, huh?
LOL

OK... I am going to have to start making sure I have my glasses on
when reading/typing. It's that time more and more these days.

But I have to admit, I was thinking "what in the world is Leon going
to do with the 4x4s? No wonder he wants to make sure he has
wheels!"

Robert



Glasses or a shot of whiskey!