I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+- thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply, attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4" thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?

On 10/29/2016 9:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+- thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply, attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4" thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?

Don't guess I get the gist of the reason for the question...they're not
going to be of significance structurally so make the veneer as thin as
can to save the material for other uses.

On Sat, 29 Oct 2016 10:12:33 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:

I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+- thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply, attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4" thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?


Are you going to "wrap" the plywood to keep it looking good?

"OFWW" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2016 10:12:33 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:

I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+- thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I have
some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4" thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?


Are you going to "wrap" the plywood to keep it looking good?

None of the ply would show as the center is between two horizontal pieces of
3/4 ply that comprise the substrates for the tables' tops and bottom
shelves. There will be a 3/4 piece of mahogany at each end.of the center
supports to cover the ply there and I need to attach those end caps to the
mahogany on the sides so that they will move along with any seasonal
movement. And therein lies the rub...I need some thickness in the "veneer"
to attach the end caps but the thicker the "veneer" is the greater the
possibility of failure between them and the faces of the ply; however, there
are ways I could handle the attachment of the end caps if I wind up with
thin veneer.

On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+- thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply, attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4" thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.

--
Jeff

On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4" thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

On 10/30/2016 6:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
....

1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

+1

If he's really concerned, since it's going to be on a support leg pretty
much (as I understand it, anyway) out of direct sight, don't glue it
solid to the entire substrate but only the seam areas to keep them
tight. A pin or two in the middle will allow a little movement if it
turns out it needs a little room to "grow" in humid weather...

On 10/30/2016 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4"
thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

why not. Ply is always in odd number of layers to prevent warping. your
luan example creates a balance.

I think it does matter having balance. Always odd number of plys..

--
Jeff

On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 20:00:17 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 10/30/2016 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4"
thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

why not. Ply is always in odd number of layers to prevent warping. your
luan example creates a balance.

I think it does matter having balance. Always odd number of plys..

Alternating layers, not all grain running in the same direction.

On 10/31/2016 8:30 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 20:00:17 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 10/30/2016 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4"
thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

why not. Ply is always in odd number of layers to prevent warping. your
luan example creates a balance.

I think it does matter having balance. Always odd number of plys..

Alternating layers, not all grain running in the same direction.


yes, but you need an odd number of layers. It's never even. If it were,
it would pull in one direction.


--
Jeff

On 10/31/2016 7:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/30/2016 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my
mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4"
thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the
resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

why not. Ply is always in odd number of layers to prevent warping. your
luan example creates a balance.

I think it does matter having balance. Always odd number of plys..


You said nothing about the number of plies, you mentioned the need to
find a wood that contracts and expands similarly. No need for that.

On 10/31/2016 10:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/31/2016 8:30 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 20:00:17 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 10/30/2016 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my
mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4"
thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the
resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and
attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

why not. Ply is always in odd number of layers to prevent warping. your
luan example creates a balance.

I think it does matter having balance. Always odd number of plys..

Alternating layers, not all grain running in the same direction.


yes, but you need an odd number of layers. It's never even. If it were,
it would pull in one direction.



By that logic plywood should "pull in one direction"?, there are more
plies pulling in one direction than the other.

Alternating grain with each layer is important to introduce stability,
especially during manufacture when the surfaces are damp with adhesive.
And this adds strength from multiple layers of thin veneer. You see odd
plies so that the outer pieces run in the same direction, very important
when both sides of the panel will show.

FWIW I have thinned plywood on my drum sander with no change in
flatness. AND I have counted countless groves and dado's in plywood
that would certainly cause issues if this were a serious factor.

I can assure you that plywood does warp even with alternating plies and
outer plies running the same direction.

On 11/1/2016 10:35 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/31/2016 10:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/31/2016 8:30 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 20:00:17 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 10/30/2016 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/30/2016 4:30 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/29/2016 10:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm working on my sofa tables, getting down to the bottom of my
mahogany
pile and don't want to buy more at the moment.

I need two center supports, each 14 1/2 wide by 20" tall x 2 1/2"+-
thick.
I had planned to attach solid mahogany strips, 3/4" thick to a
poplar
frame
but don't think I have enough mahogany stock for that. However, I
have some
12/4 offcuts that I could resaw and glue those to 1/2 or 3/4 ply,
attaching
the ply to the frame. The resaw pieces woild be a maximum of 1/4"
thick,
quarter sawn.but I could make them thinner, no thinner than 1/8".

My question is, what is the maximum thickness I could use for the
resawn
pieces?



1/8 would be fine, but what you'll need to do is find in the lumber
charts a comparable wood that expands and contracts similarly and
attach
it to the other side of the ply. That will balance the piece and
prevent warping.


I'm thinking that will not matter. A LOT of upper end cabinet quality
plywood has a good side and Luan for the back.

why not. Ply is always in odd number of layers to prevent warping.
your
luan example creates a balance.

I think it does matter having balance. Always odd number of plys..

Alternating layers, not all grain running in the same direction.


yes, but you need an odd number of layers. It's never even. If it were,
it would pull in one direction.



By that logic plywood should "pull in one direction"?, there are more
plies pulling in one direction than the other.

Alternating grain with each layer is important to introduce stability,
especially during manufacture when the surfaces are damp with adhesive.
And this adds strength from multiple layers of thin veneer. You see odd
plies so that the outer pieces run in the same direction, very important
when both sides of the panel will show.

FWIW I have thinned plywood on my drum sander with no change in
flatness. AND I have counted countless groves and dado's in plywood
that would certainly cause issues if this were a serious factor.

I can assure you that plywood does warp even with alternating plies and
outer plies running the same direction.



agreed, that it does warp, I have a bunch of maple ply that's a pretzel.

--
Jeff