Hi All,

I know this topic has been fairly well covered in the past, but I'd be interested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in this debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.

As far as I can tell there is little to choose between them from the point of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over UFH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.

Are there any other things to be borne in mind?

Cheers.

Chris

It you want boards at the wider end of the spectrum, you'll likely need to
go for engineered.

Do shop around when buying. Including Ebay. But it is very difficult to
compare like for like. Most of the high street suppliers - and the sheds -
seem to be poor value.

Most of the Ebay suppliers want cash on delivery - or charge extra for
credit cards.

--
*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 10:08:56 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
It you want boards at the wider end of the spectrum, you'll likely need to

go for engineered.



Do shop around when buying. Including Ebay. But it is very difficult to

compare like for like. Most of the high street suppliers - and the sheds -

seem to be poor value.



Most of the Ebay suppliers want cash on delivery - or charge extra for

credit cards.



--

*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *



Dave Plowman London SW

To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Only difference we've seen is my daughter has solid wood and we've engineered. Hers is silent while ours is like a Japanese "whispering" floor, most areas of it creaks and crackles no matter how hard you (I) try to creep about in the wee hours - I'm told it's down to poor fitting......

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:13:59 AM UTC+1, wrote:

Hi All,
I know this topic has been fairly well covered in the past, but I'd be interested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in this debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.
As far as I can tell there is little to choose between them from the point of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over UFH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.
Are there any other things to be borne in mind?
Cheers.
Chris

Engineered is far more expensive, more stable, and less able to cope with wear. I can't see the excessive prices being worthwhile.


NT

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:13:59 AM UTC+1, wrote:
Hi All,



I know this topic has been fairly well covered in the past, but I'd be interested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in this debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.



As far as I can tell there is little to choose between them from the point of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over UFH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.



Are there any other things to be borne in mind?



Cheers.



Chris

I could have added that we will probably want 150 mm width. Another question is 'what are peoples' experiences with fitting-only of self-purchased boards? My local flooring shop want £20/m2 for laying.

In article ,
wrote:
Only difference we've seen is my daughter has solid wood and we've
engineered. Hers is silent while ours is like a Japanese "whispering"
floor, most areas of it creaks and crackles no matter how hard you (I)
try to creep about in the wee hours - I'm told it's down to poor
fitting......

I'd guess engineered would retain a degree of spring always given its
construction. And, of course should be more warp resistant. Are both
floors laid on the same sort of base and in the same way?

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
Engineered is far more expensive, more stable, and less able to cope
with wear. I can't see the excessive prices being worthwhile.

Decent quality engineered will have a 6mm layer on top - which allows a
couple of sandings. If it is reasonably well protected by oil or varnish
it should last a lifetime of normal use.

--
*Corduroy pillows are making headlines.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
I could have added that we will probably want 150 mm width. Another
question is 'what are peoples' experiences with fitting-only of
self-purchased boards? My local flooring shop want £20/m2 for laying.

I laid my own - and secret nailed it to the original wood floor. Bought
the proper nailing machine new and flogged it afterwards on Ebay at a
profit. ;-) I also went a bit mad and removed/replaced the skirting so it
looks like a real floor rather than covering. And saved myself over 600
quid by your price. Rather enjoyed doing it too. But I do have all the
nice tools for this - like a decent chop saw.

--
*Santa's helpers are subordinate clauses*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 22/10/2013 09:13, wrote:
Hi All,

I know this topic has been fairly well covered in the past, but I'd be interested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in this debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.

As far as I can tell there is little to choose between them from the point of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over UFH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.

Are there any other things to be borne in mind?

Cheers.

Chris


Engineered wood .... glued t&g laid floating over a 3mm closed cell
underlay is a great floor.

Stable, and as long as you get at least 5mm veneer .. takes as many
sandings as solid wood.
I used 7mm veneer BOEN Oak, and 5mm KHARS .... now been down 10 yrs ...
great products.

I did not use bevelled edge ... as wanted flat finish.


TIP- measure and make sure no thin pieces would end up at end or at
doors ... trim down first strip if necessary to achieve this.
Getting the first 3 strips laid absolutely perfect, wedge to get a
string line perfect (no bowing across room) let glue set, then next day
do rest of room in one go.
Ratchet clamps a necessity (have set for sale if interested)

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 1:17:46 PM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

Engineered is far more expensive, more stable, and less able to cope
with wear. I can't see the excessive prices being worthwhile.

Decent quality engineered will have a 6mm layer on top - which allows a
couple of sandings. If it is reasonably well protected by oil or varnish
it should last a lifetime of normal use.

I know for some stuff one soaking and its knackered.


NT

On 22/10/2013 10:18, wrote:
On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 10:08:56 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
It you want boards at the wider end of the spectrum, you'll likely need to

go for engineered.



Do shop around when buying. Including Ebay. But it is very difficult to

compare like for like. Most of the high street suppliers - and the sheds -

seem to be poor value.



Most of the Ebay suppliers want cash on delivery - or charge extra for

credit cards.



--

*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *



Dave Plowman London SW

To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Only difference we've seen is my daughter has solid wood and we've engineered. Hers is silent while ours is like a Japanese "whispering" floor, most areas of it creaks and crackles no matter how hard you (I) try to creep about in the wee hours - I'm told it's down to poor fitting......


Talcum Powder sprinkled between the joints should stop the creaking.

--
yendor
If it's not broken, let's fix it till it is.

In article ,
yendor wrote:
Only difference we've seen is my daughter has solid wood and we've
engineered. Hers is silent while ours is like a Japanese "whispering"
floor, most areas of it creaks and crackles no matter how hard you (I)
try to creep about in the wee hours - I'm told it's down to poor
fitting......


Talcum Powder sprinkled between the joints should stop the creaking.

If you've laid them properly, there won't be any gaps to get talcum powder
in.

--
*When a clock is hungry it goes back four seconds*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, October 26, 2013 1:00:44 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,

yendor wrote:

Only difference we've seen is my daughter has solid wood and we've

engineered. Hers is silent while ours is like a Japanese "whispering"

floor, most areas of it creaks and crackles no matter how hard you (I)

try to creep about in the wee hours - I'm told it's down to poor

fitting......





Talcum Powder sprinkled between the joints should stop the creaking.



If you've laid them properly, there won't be any gaps to get talcum powder

in.



--

*When a clock is hungry it goes back four seconds*



Dave Plowman London SW

To e-mail, change noise into sound.

No gaps (smug)
Sorry, no idea which underlay the daughter has, it was done "by a man" - her words, not mine.

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:13:59 AM UTC+1, wrote:
Hi All,



I know this topic has been fairly well covered in the past, but I'd be interested in an up-to-date round up of consensus from anyone who's been in this debate in recent times, as I am soon to be making a decision.



As far as I can tell there is little to choose between them from the point of view of look and wear. Two important factors seem to be (a) solid wood is more likely to bow (but shouldn't be an issue if the quality is good) - engineered wood is more stable, (b) engineered wood seems to be typically a bit more expensive. I'm aware that thickness of veneer is important, and would be going for at least 5mm. Also, engineered wood is preferable over UFH - though this is now irrelevant to my situation as I've decided against this.



Are there any other things to be borne in mind?



Cheers.



Chris

Thanks for the comments.

I note that nobody was clearly in favour of solid wood. I suppose neither solid wood or engineered wood are going to fare very well in flood conditions (but then most floors won't), but possibly solid wood may be slightly more resistant? Not that this is a great criterion.

I'm probably going to bottle out of laying it myself, as it's not my house. Any experience of laying prices?

In article ,
wrote:
I note that nobody was clearly in favour of solid wood. I suppose
neither solid wood or engineered wood are going to fare very well in
flood conditions (but then most floors won't), but possibly solid wood
may be slightly more resistant? Not that this is a great criterion.

It would surely depend on the quality and contruction used in the ply for
engineered? And that does vary.

I'm probably going to bottle out of laying it myself, as it's not my
house. Any experience of laying prices?

Actually laying it is a quick process. What takes more time is cutting
where it meets a wall, etc. So a large plain shaped room should cost less
per sq mtr than a small irregular one.

--
*How's my driving? Call 999*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, October 26, 2013 10:10:41 AM UTC+1, wrote:

Thanks for the comments.

I note that nobody was clearly in favour of solid wood. I suppose neither solid wood or engineered wood are going to fare very well in flood conditions (but then most floors won't), but possibly solid wood may be slightly more resistant? Not that this is a great criterion.

Maybe you missed some of the posts. Solid survives water.


NT

:
I suppose neither solid wood or engineered wood are going to fare very
well in flood conditions (but then most floors won't), but possibly
solid wood may be slightly more resistant? Not that this is a great
criterion.

Floods come in all sizes. Our solid oak floor survived a rather minor
flood (washing-machine-full of water from the floor above for a few
hours) with ease.

--
Mike Barnes