I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Puckdropper

On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 4:55:45 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Puckdropper

I vote to sand the parent board, first. If anyhting, the only extra work may be some touch-up hand sanding of the strips' corners.

Sonny

On 10/13/2016 6:39 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 4:55:45 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Puckdropper

I vote to sand the parent board, first. If anyhting, the only extra work may be some touch-up hand sanding of the strips' corners.

Sonny



I'm confused (not unusual g) but if I understand this correctly, the
strips are to conceal the plies and thus will have a much larger surface
area (in total) once glued up. You will want them flush with the
surface of the plywood and would be sanding this anyways prior to
finishing. The edge (or face if you will) is going to be 7/8" thick
regardless of whether or not it's on the parent board, standing by
itself ready for glue up, or glued to the plywood as edging.

What am I missing? Under this scenario, I'd just cut the strips, glue
them up and sand, rout or plane the edges flush and finish

On 10/13/2016 4:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Puckdropper



Not seeing the complete picture, it will be easier to sand before cutting.

You can also put all pieces together after cutting and sand.

You can sand after attaching to the plywood.

On 10/13/2016 4:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Really a matter of preference, along with the dictates of the design,
and the type and thickness of the stock ... not a bad idea to do any
heavy prep first, particularly with regard to thickness.

Do a lot of solid wood banding, and although I rarely have a need to
sand the stock used for banding strips beforehand, some sanding of the
join between the solid and veneer parts is almost always necessary and
can require a delicate touch

In that case I prefer to have everything setup to sand/scrape to a
consistent level and finish with minimum sanding/scraping ... mainly so
I can focus on the delicate part of the task.

But that's just me ...

https://goo.gl/photos/3mwny84h9Rd6vE3G7

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 10/13/2016 9:45 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/13/2016 4:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Really a matter of preference, along with the dictates of the design,
and the type and thickness of the stock ... not a bad idea to do any
heavy prep first, particularly with regard to thickness.

Do a lot of solid wood banding, and although I rarely have a need to
sand the stock used for banding strips beforehand, some sanding of the
join between the solid and veneer parts is almost always necessary and
can require a delicate touch

In that case I prefer to have everything setup to sand/scrape to a
consistent level and finish with minimum sanding/scraping ... mainly so
I can focus on the delicate part of the task.

But that's just me ...

https://goo.gl/photos/3mwny84h9Rd6vE3G7



Is that purple heart in front of your keyboard? ;~)

On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 10:05:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 10/13/2016 9:45 AM, Swingman wrote:

But that's just me ...

https://goo.gl/photos/3mwny84h9Rd6vE3G7

Is that purple heart in front of your keyboard? ;~)

Which reminds me, and I've been meaning to ask (been wondering for several weeks/month or so, now)....

How's the carpal tunnel results been treating you? Hopefully, you're doing just fine.

Sonny

On 10/13/16 4:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down
into strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide,
which means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it
be worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind
up just doing extra work?

Puckdropper


Depends on the tools you have, your material, and skills.
Some plywood has such a thin finish veneer that it's way too easy to
sand through it. If the plywood you are using has a thicker finish
veneer, it'll be much more forgiving. Scrapers are great for taking out
machining marks on an edging strip of hardwood because you can control
it and bend it so it doesn't scrape the plywood.

I usually glue on edging hardwood strips proud of all dimensions, then
saw/route/scrape/sand down to final size. I have found this produces the
most consistency and results in perfectly straight edges and nice, sharp
corners.

Keep this in mind however... plywood and hardwood edging strips will
expand and contract at different rates, so a seem that is smooth and
perfectly flush today, won't be 6 months from now. If you're assembling
in the summer, you might want to leave that seam a few thousandths high
so it's be flush when everything shrinks in the winter. Vice versa in
the winter.
Depending on the purpose of what you're building, sometimes having the
slightest little lip is a good thing: to keep pens from rolling off the
front of a desk, for instance.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/13/2016 10:05 AM, Leon wrote:

https://goo.gl/photos/3mwny84h9Rd6vE3G7



Is that purple heart in front of your keyboard? ;~)

One of those new mangled, composites ... no stain necessary.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 10/13/2016 10:32 AM, Sonny wrote:
Which reminds me, and I've been meaning to ask (been wondering for several weeks/month or so, now)....

How's the carpal tunnel results been treating you? Hopefully, you're doing just fine.

Thanks for asking ... happy with regard to lack of pain when sleeping
and/or driving, but still varying degrees of numbness after six months,
depending upon what I'm doing.

Basically, too numb to go back to playing bass with a band, but not a
big concern for life in general.

Long as I can cook, I'll take what I can get ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

You are cutting multiple thin strips off a wide board that is about 7/8"
thick, is that right? If so, sanding the face of the wide board isn't going
to accomplish anything as both show and glue sides will have been cut by the
saw (except for one side of the first strip).

It isn't all that hard to sand a 7/8" surface but if you anticipate a
problem, here are two ways to handle it...

1. lay the strips side by side and sand before gluing to the ply

2. if after gluing, clamp some scrap board along the edges, sort of like
shooting boards.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 10/13/2016 4:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down
into strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide,
which means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it
be worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind
up just doing extra work?

Puckdropper



Not seeing the complete picture, it will be easier to sand before
cutting.

You can also put all pieces together after cutting and sand.

You can sand after attaching to the plywood.

That's what I get for posting right before I head to bed...

I've got some 1x oak that I'm planning on cutting into approximately
7/8" wide strips to edge band some plywood. This is for a model
railroad, and will be very similar in design to the one shown he
http://rcmrrc.us/portable/view.php?f...%20Module%20-%
20DM.jpg

The plan is to cut the oak into strips approximately 3/4" by 7/8", with
approximately 1/8" extending out over the plywood to provide a shadow
line. I'll get a similar effect to what's shown in the picture, but
hopefully it will be cleaner.

I'll join the edging to the plywood using loose tenons, and I'm still
debating what to do on the end. I would like a vertical 7/8"x7/8" end
block, but am not sure if I'll be able to find material that size without
cutting something down or having to glue something up. Notice how the
edging just rolls around the edge of the module? (You may have to load
more pictures.) Rather than capping the end like I did before, that's
where I'd like to put that end block. I think it'll look a little nicer.

So on top there will be a visible piece that is now currently the face of
the board. That's the part I was asking about sanding ahead of time.

Puckdropper

On 10/13/2016 3:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 10/13/2016 4:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down
into strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide,
which means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it
be worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind
up just doing extra work?

Puckdropper



Not seeing the complete picture, it will be easier to sand before
cutting.

You can also put all pieces together after cutting and sand.

You can sand after attaching to the plywood.

That's what I get for posting right before I head to bed...

I've got some 1x oak that I'm planning on cutting into approximately
7/8" wide strips to edge band some plywood. This is for a model
railroad, and will be very similar in design to the one shown he
http://rcmrrc.us/portable/view.php?f...%20Module%20-%
20DM.jpg

OK so the cut edge will face up and above the plywood. Lay all of those
pieces with the cut faces up and sand all at the same time.

Or attach to the plywood and sand with a finish sander. With that
narrow of a piece to sand, the sander will/should work quickly. If it
is a decent cut a scraper would be the ideal tool.





The plan is to cut the oak into strips approximately 3/4" by 7/8", with
approximately 1/8" extending out over the plywood to provide a shadow
line. I'll get a similar effect to what's shown in the picture, but
hopefully it will be cleaner.

I'll join the edging to the plywood using loose tenons, and I'm still
debating what to do on the end. I would like a vertical 7/8"x7/8" end
block, but am not sure if I'll be able to find material that size without
cutting something down or having to glue something up. Notice how the
edging just rolls around the edge of the module? (You may have to load
more pictures.) Rather than capping the end like I did before, that's
where I'd like to put that end block. I think it'll look a little nicer.

Something I have seen old finish carpenters do, Stop the plywood sides
so that they leave a 3/4" x 3/4" recess. The inner surface edges of the
plywood come together, but that is it. Then 45 a piece of plywood and
place in that corner.




So on top there will be a visible piece that is now currently the face of
the board. That's the part I was asking about sanding ahead of time.

Puckdropper

On 10/13/2016 5:55 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?

Puckdropper


You'll probably still need to sand, you can gang sand..

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly. But I have pre-sanded.
It's really hard to say what's best for you.

--
Jeff

On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/13/2016 9:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Dead sand paper skin.

On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood.
And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this,
your blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?

--
Jeff

On 10/14/2016 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood. And
ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this, your
blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?



You may be over analyzing. I cut a lot of wood after going through my
drum sander just after resawing. I cannot say if there is an adverse
effect or not. I have my blades resharpened after every 8-10 pieces of
furniture.

On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood. And
ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this, your
blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak Rust" files.
You want to worry about that, good on ya.
I think I'll just build $h!t. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

woodchucker wrote in news:gZCdnXDkna--v5zFnZ2dnUU7-
:


Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood.
And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this,
your blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?


o
+--|
| /
|
J

Not taking the bait!

On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood. And
ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this, your
blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak Rust" files.
You want to worry about that, good on ya.
I think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the particles
shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you will notice it.

--
Jeff

On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will
still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood. And
ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this, your
blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak Rust" files.
You want to worry about that, good on ya.
I think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the particles
shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you will notice
it.



How much is a lot?

On 10/14/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will
still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood.
And
ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this, your
blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak Rust" files.
You want to worry about that, good on ya.
I think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the particles
shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you will notice
it.



How much is a lot?

That would depend on the grit, the wood (how much the wood holds), how
hard you press.

You have to think of it this way. the sandpaper feels sharp in the
beginning. Then it doesn't.. most of it does go the dust route. But
quite a bit is caught in the wood. Especially soft gummy woods, or open
pored woods.

How much you heat up and destroy the bond is part of it, how much
cutting you do is another part of the equation. If your just ripping one
or 2 pieces, maybe the dulling is light. But if you cutting a lot of
wood from the sanded pieces, it will affect your blade faster.

I would imagine your festool would be better than most... since it has
one of the better vac systems. But still guilty a little. But something
like my PC ROS, would be way worse. My Bosch 1/4 sheet not so good
either..

Either way grit has a way of dulling tooling, when you have grit that is
not sharpening your tool.




--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will
still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood.
And
ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this, your
blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak Rust" files.
You want to worry about that, good on ya.
I think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the particles
shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you will notice
it.



How much is a lot?

That would depend on the grit, the wood (how much the wood holds), how
hard you press.

You have to think of it this way. the sandpaper feels sharp in the
beginning. Then it doesn't.. most of it does go the dust route. But
quite a bit is caught in the wood. Especially soft gummy woods, or open
pored woods.

How much you heat up and destroy the bond is part of it, how much
cutting you do is another part of the equation. If your just ripping one
or 2 pieces, maybe the dulling is light. But if you cutting a lot of
wood from the sanded pieces, it will affect your blade faster.

I would imagine your festool would be better than most... since it has
one of the better vac systems. But still guilty a little. But something
like my PC ROS, would be way worse. My Bosch 1/4 sheet not so good
either..

Either way grit has a way of dulling tooling, when you have grit that is
not sharpening your tool.





I saw a butt load. I used to sand with 3M and Porter Cable before switching
to Festool paper.

I never have had my blades resharpened much more than every 2-3 years.

I have never used a paper with grit that breaks down, although garnet paper
will fracture and bread down. I only use aluminum oxide paper and have only
witnessed that paper's minerals/grit dull not fracture or flake off.

It makes sense that loose grit would full a blade but in my experience it
does not do so enough to give it a second thought.

On 10/15/16 10:44 PM, Leon wrote:


I saw a butt load. I used to sand with 3M and Porter Cable before switching
to Festool paper.

I never have had my blades resharpened much more than every 2-3 years.

I have never used a paper with grit that breaks down, although garnet paper
will fracture and bread down. I only use aluminum oxide paper and have only
witnessed that paper's minerals/grit dull not fracture or flake off.

It makes sense that loose grit would full a blade but in my experience it
does not do so enough to give it a second thought.



I always give boards a blast of compressed air between grits and when
done sanding. Not 100% for grit removal, but can't be worse. This is not
done for concern for the saw blades, mostly for eliminating any problems
of a finer grit picking up a rock from the previous sanding pass and
causing scratches.

-BR

On 10/15/16 11:44 PM, Leon wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the
particles will still be around and dull your blade ever
so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in
the wood. And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were
doing a lot of this, your blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go? You think they all
wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak
Rust" files. You want to worry about that, good on ya. I
think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the
particles shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you
will notice it.



How much is a lot?

That would depend on the grit, the wood (how much the wood holds),
how hard you press.

You have to think of it this way. the sandpaper feels sharp in the
beginning. Then it doesn't.. most of it does go the dust route.
But quite a bit is caught in the wood. Especially soft gummy woods,
or open pored woods.

How much you heat up and destroy the bond is part of it, how much
cutting you do is another part of the equation. If your just
ripping one or 2 pieces, maybe the dulling is light. But if you
cutting a lot of wood from the sanded pieces, it will affect your
blade faster.

I would imagine your festool would be better than most... since it
has one of the better vac systems. But still guilty a little. But
something like my PC ROS, would be way worse. My Bosch 1/4 sheet
not so good either..

Either way grit has a way of dulling tooling, when you have grit
that is not sharpening your tool.





I saw a butt load. I used to sand with 3M and Porter Cable before
switching to Festool paper.

I never have had my blades resharpened much more than every 2-3
years.

I have never used a paper with grit that breaks down, although garnet
paper will fracture and bread down. I only use aluminum oxide paper
and have only witnessed that paper's minerals/grit dull not fracture
or flake off.

It makes sense that loose grit would full a blade but in my
experience it does not do so enough to give it a second thought.


You're too nice about it. I'm calling bull**** on the whole theory.
:-)
If there are tiny amounts of sandpaper grit embedding itself in the
grain of the wood, how come it's never shown up in the finish? Why
hasn't it interfered with each successive, finer grit of sanding? Why
can't I feel it against my skin when I'm checking each sanding? Why
does my sandpaper last so darn long if all the grit is breaking off and
getting stuck in the wood. Why? Because it's not happening.

The one caveat I will add is perhaps the OP got stuck using some of the
same terrible Harbor Freight bulk sandpaper that I bought, once....
once. Half the git would fall off that stuff just taking it out of the
cardboard box it came in. I called it single use sandpaper. That stuff
*did* leave grit all over whatever surface you were sanding, so perhaps
that's what the OP was using that caused this issue. Perhaps he wanted
to use up his whole inventory of the stuff instead of tossing it out and
buying decent sandpaper.

That's the only way I could even possibly ever even start to buy into
this theory.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/16/2016 10:34 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/15/16 11:44 PM, Leon wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the
particles will still be around and dull your blade ever
so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in
the wood. And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were
doing a lot of this, your blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go? You think they all
wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak
Rust" files. You want to worry about that, good on ya. I
think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the
particles shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you
will notice it.



How much is a lot?

That would depend on the grit, the wood (how much the wood holds),
how hard you press.

You have to think of it this way. the sandpaper feels sharp in the
beginning. Then it doesn't.. most of it does go the dust route.
But quite a bit is caught in the wood. Especially soft gummy woods,
or open pored woods.

How much you heat up and destroy the bond is part of it, how much
cutting you do is another part of the equation. If your just
ripping one or 2 pieces, maybe the dulling is light. But if you
cutting a lot of wood from the sanded pieces, it will affect your
blade faster.

I would imagine your festool would be better than most... since it
has one of the better vac systems. But still guilty a little. But
something like my PC ROS, would be way worse. My Bosch 1/4 sheet
not so good either..

Either way grit has a way of dulling tooling, when you have grit
that is not sharpening your tool.





I saw a butt load. I used to sand with 3M and Porter Cable before
switching to Festool paper.

I never have had my blades resharpened much more than every 2-3
years.

I have never used a paper with grit that breaks down, although garnet
paper will fracture and bread down. I only use aluminum oxide paper
and have only witnessed that paper's minerals/grit dull not fracture
or flake off.

It makes sense that loose grit would full a blade but in my
experience it does not do so enough to give it a second thought.


You're too nice about it. I'm calling bull**** on the whole theory.
:-)
If there are tiny amounts of sandpaper grit embedding itself in the
grain of the wood, how come it's never shown up in the finish? Why
hasn't it interfered with each successive, finer grit of sanding? Why
can't I feel it against my skin when I'm checking each sanding? Why
does my sandpaper last so darn long if all the grit is breaking off and
getting stuck in the wood. Why? Because it's not happening.

The one caveat I will add is perhaps the OP got stuck using some of the
same terrible Harbor Freight bulk sandpaper that I bought, once....
once. Half the git would fall off that stuff just taking it out of the
cardboard box it came in. I called it single use sandpaper. That stuff
*did* leave grit all over whatever surface you were sanding, so perhaps
that's what the OP was using that caused this issue. Perhaps he wanted
to use up his whole inventory of the stuff instead of tossing it out and
buying decent sandpaper.

That's the only way I could even possibly ever even start to buy into
this theory.



In all fairness, garnet paper is designed to fracture and form a smaller
grit on the paper as it is used. BUT that is old style paper and is not
used much any more, at least main stream.

Something dulls modern blades, wood, and with modern paper the effect is
insignificant to notice, in my experience.


I recall a couple of decades ago comments about mixing sanding dust with
glue to make a wood filler. There were comments about loose sanding
particles contaminating the mixture. I have not seen any recent
comments with this concern.

On Sun, 16 Oct 2016 14:40:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 10/16/2016 10:34 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/15/16 11:44 PM, Leon wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the
particles will still be around and dull your blade ever
so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in
the wood. And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were
doing a lot of this, your blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go? You think they all
wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak
Rust" files. You want to worry about that, good on ya. I
think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the
particles shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you
will notice it.



How much is a lot?

That would depend on the grit, the wood (how much the wood holds),
how hard you press.

You have to think of it this way. the sandpaper feels sharp in the
beginning. Then it doesn't.. most of it does go the dust route.
But quite a bit is caught in the wood. Especially soft gummy woods,
or open pored woods.

How much you heat up and destroy the bond is part of it, how much
cutting you do is another part of the equation. If your just
ripping one or 2 pieces, maybe the dulling is light. But if you
cutting a lot of wood from the sanded pieces, it will affect your
blade faster.

I would imagine your festool would be better than most... since it
has one of the better vac systems. But still guilty a little. But
something like my PC ROS, would be way worse. My Bosch 1/4 sheet
not so good either..

Either way grit has a way of dulling tooling, when you have grit
that is not sharpening your tool.





I saw a butt load. I used to sand with 3M and Porter Cable before
switching to Festool paper.

I never have had my blades resharpened much more than every 2-3
years.

I have never used a paper with grit that breaks down, although garnet
paper will fracture and bread down. I only use aluminum oxide paper
and have only witnessed that paper's minerals/grit dull not fracture
or flake off.

It makes sense that loose grit would full a blade but in my
experience it does not do so enough to give it a second thought.


You're too nice about it. I'm calling bull**** on the whole theory.
:-)
If there are tiny amounts of sandpaper grit embedding itself in the
grain of the wood, how come it's never shown up in the finish? Why
hasn't it interfered with each successive, finer grit of sanding? Why
can't I feel it against my skin when I'm checking each sanding? Why
does my sandpaper last so darn long if all the grit is breaking off and
getting stuck in the wood. Why? Because it's not happening.

The one caveat I will add is perhaps the OP got stuck using some of the
same terrible Harbor Freight bulk sandpaper that I bought, once....
once. Half the git would fall off that stuff just taking it out of the
cardboard box it came in. I called it single use sandpaper. That stuff
*did* leave grit all over whatever surface you were sanding, so perhaps
that's what the OP was using that caused this issue. Perhaps he wanted
to use up his whole inventory of the stuff instead of tossing it out and
buying decent sandpaper.

That's the only way I could even possibly ever even start to buy into
this theory.



In all fairness, garnet paper is designed to fracture and form a smaller
grit on the paper as it is used. BUT that is old style paper and is not
used much any more, at least main stream.

Something dulls modern blades, wood, and with modern paper the effect is
insignificant to notice, in my experience.

....and in particular, silicates in the wood (and don't forget rusted
oak).

I recall a couple of decades ago comments about mixing sanding dust with
glue to make a wood filler. There were comments about loose sanding
particles contaminating the mixture. I have not seen any recent
comments with this concern.

Why would that matter? It's held in the glue.

On 10/16/2016 4:19 PM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Oct 2016 14:40:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 10/16/2016 10:34 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/15/16 11:44 PM, Leon wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/14/2016 5:48 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/16 1:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/13/2016 10:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/16 9:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:

If you sand before, there's a good chance that the
particles will still be around and dull your blade ever
so slightly.

I'm sorry, but what!?



Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in
the wood. And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were
doing a lot of this, your blade would not last.

Where do you think the particles go? You think they all
wind up on the floor or in the vac?


Wow man, ok. Nope, sorry, I'm tossing this one in the "Oak
Rust" files. You want to worry about that, good on ya. I
think I'll just build $h!t. :-)



I'm not worrying about it, but it is real. as you sand the
particles shed from the paper.

Like I said earlier, I do it. But if you do a lot of it, you
will notice it.



How much is a lot?

That would depend on the grit, the wood (how much the wood holds),
how hard you press.

You have to think of it this way. the sandpaper feels sharp in the
beginning. Then it doesn't.. most of it does go the dust route.
But quite a bit is caught in the wood. Especially soft gummy woods,
or open pored woods.

How much you heat up and destroy the bond is part of it, how much
cutting you do is another part of the equation. If your just
ripping one or 2 pieces, maybe the dulling is light. But if you
cutting a lot of wood from the sanded pieces, it will affect your
blade faster.

I would imagine your festool would be better than most... since it
has one of the better vac systems. But still guilty a little. But
something like my PC ROS, would be way worse. My Bosch 1/4 sheet
not so good either..

Either way grit has a way of dulling tooling, when you have grit
that is not sharpening your tool.





I saw a butt load. I used to sand with 3M and Porter Cable before
switching to Festool paper.

I never have had my blades resharpened much more than every 2-3
years.

I have never used a paper with grit that breaks down, although garnet
paper will fracture and bread down. I only use aluminum oxide paper
and have only witnessed that paper's minerals/grit dull not fracture
or flake off.

It makes sense that loose grit would full a blade but in my
experience it does not do so enough to give it a second thought.


You're too nice about it. I'm calling bull**** on the whole theory.
:-)
If there are tiny amounts of sandpaper grit embedding itself in the
grain of the wood, how come it's never shown up in the finish? Why
hasn't it interfered with each successive, finer grit of sanding? Why
can't I feel it against my skin when I'm checking each sanding? Why
does my sandpaper last so darn long if all the grit is breaking off and
getting stuck in the wood. Why? Because it's not happening.

The one caveat I will add is perhaps the OP got stuck using some of the
same terrible Harbor Freight bulk sandpaper that I bought, once....
once. Half the git would fall off that stuff just taking it out of the
cardboard box it came in. I called it single use sandpaper. That stuff
*did* leave grit all over whatever surface you were sanding, so perhaps
that's what the OP was using that caused this issue. Perhaps he wanted
to use up his whole inventory of the stuff instead of tossing it out and
buying decent sandpaper.

That's the only way I could even possibly ever even start to buy into
this theory.



In all fairness, garnet paper is designed to fracture and form a smaller
grit on the paper as it is used. BUT that is old style paper and is not
used much any more, at least main stream.

Something dulls modern blades, wood, and with modern paper the effect is
insignificant to notice, in my experience.

...and in particular, silicates in the wood (and don't forget rusted
oak).

I recall a couple of decades ago comments about mixing sanding dust with
glue to make a wood filler. There were comments about loose sanding
particles contaminating the mixture. I have not seen any recent
comments with this concern.

Why would that matter? It's held in the glue.


Apparently the sparkle of the mineral was an issue.