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#1
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation?
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#2
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Have you tried 3M Wet or Dry and use turpentine? Never did it, but came to mind... |
#3
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#4
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:26:32 PM UTC-4, Bob Villa wrote:
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Have you tried 3M Wet or Dry and use turpentine? Never did it, but came to mind... I have only tried gator |
#5
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:27:10 PM UTC-4, MOP CAP wrote:
On 2016-06-16 01:19:48 +0000, said: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Why not try a plane? CP I have thought of this but realized that it would require an excessive amount sharpening and money to be worth the effort. |
#6
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:26:32 PM UTC-4, Bob Villa wrote:
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Have you tried 3M Wet or Dry and use turpentine? Never did it, but came to mind... What is turpentine used for? |
#7
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#8
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#10
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:05:40 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:26:32 PM UTC-4, Bob Villa wrote: On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth.. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Have you tried 3M Wet or Dry and use turpentine? Never did it, but came to mind... What is turpentine used for? It keeps the sandpaper cleaner and "cuts" better than being dry. |
#11
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 10:06:16 PM UTC-4, wrote:
wrote in : I have only tried gator Time to get out of Lowe's. Look for the Norton 3X paper and give that a try. You might be able to get a sample pack so you don't have to invest too much in the paper. I had some 3M 3x paper that fit the "mouse" sander. It was pretty decent stuff. If you're doing this on a regular basis, it might be worth looking at Festool. Their sander is half of the equation, the top quality papers is the other half. Festool is a "cry once" tool, as in you only cry when you buy it but never again. Puckdropper Does the Norton 3X paper come in grits higher than 400 grit since that is all I can find. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 6:29:38 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:27:10 PM UTC-4, MOP CAP wrote: On 2016-06-16 01:19:48 +0000, said: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores ... Why not try a plane? I have thought of this but realized that it would require an excessive amount sharpening and money to be worth the effort. Have no fear. While you can't just buy a cheap plane and use it out-of-the-box, a variety of useful planes are available, and a simple whetstone (maybe an angle guide, too) is all it takes to put a fine edge on it. The small amount of wood you want to remove (a few cubic centimeters) will make crumbs if your edge is too dull, shavings if it's sharp enough. And clean enough (gotta keep the sole and edge free of sap). |
#13
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 3:49:41 AM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
Have no fear. While you can't just buy a cheap plane and use it out-of-the-box, a variety of useful planes are available, and a simple whetstone (maybe an angle guide, too) is all it takes to put a fine edge on it. The small amount of wood you want to remove (a few cubic centimeters) will make crumbs if your edge is too dull, shavings if it's sharp enough. And clean enough (gotta keep the sole and edge free of sap). Agreed. A reasonable, yet not terribly expensive, plane is likely all you need. It's not that hard to hone the iron (after initial sharpening), with 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sand paper. I assume your core sample is greem wood, or has some higher moisture content, than "typical(?) dried wood", hence that moisture is contributing to the clogging of your sand paper. If this is the case, then, yeah, 'most any sand paper will likely clog up. As Karl mentioned, on the other thread, try a card/cabinet scraper. For that small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife blade can be used as a card scraper. I don't want to sound rude, but it seems you've been dealing with this issue for some time. Another option is to find a woodworker, with some decent hand planes, in your area, and ask for some assistance. Most woodworkers I know (as posters, here) would be happy to help, probably at no cost. Sonny |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
writes:
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:27:10 PM UTC-4, MOP CAP wrote: On 2016-06-16 01:19:48 +0000, said: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Why not try a plane? CP I have thought of this but realized that it would require an excessive amount sharpening and money to be worth the effort. There is a whole field of study (dendrochronology) that create and analyze cores. Why not call up the local university and ask them? Or stop by the university library and check out a book on dendrochronology and read up on how the professionals analyze cores. http://web.utk.edu/~grissino/principles.htm http://web.utk.edu/~grissino/supplies.htm I would expect that a sufficiently sharp coring tool will create a burnished surface sufficient to count the rings, no sanding required. |
#15
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 9:08:25 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
writes: On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:27:10 PM UTC-4, MOP CAP wrote: On 2016-06-16 01:19:48 +0000, said: I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? Why not try a plane? CP I have thought of this but realized that it would require an excessive amount sharpening and money to be worth the effort. There is a whole field of study (dendrochronology) that create and analyze cores. Why not call up the local university and ask them? Or stop by the university library and check out a book on dendrochronology and read up on how the professionals analyze cores. http://web.utk.edu/~grissino/principles.htm http://web.utk.edu/~grissino/supplies.htm I would expect that a sufficiently sharp coring tool will create a burnished surface sufficient to count the rings, no sanding required. Almost every university uses sanpaper to surface the cores. The surface must be flat in order to count the rings; an increment borer produces a rounded surface. |
#16
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 6:45:42 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 3:49:41 AM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote: Have no fear. While you can't just buy a cheap plane and use it out-of-the-box, a variety of useful planes are available, and a simple whetstone (maybe an angle guide, too) is all it takes to put a fine edge on it. The small amount of wood you want to remove (a few cubic centimeters) will make crumbs if your edge is too dull, shavings if it's sharp enough. And clean enough (gotta keep the sole and edge free of sap). Agreed. A reasonable, yet not terribly expensive, plane is likely all you need. It's not that hard to hone the iron (after initial sharpening), with 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sand paper. I assume your core sample is greem wood, or has some higher moisture content, than "typical(?) dried wood", hence that moisture is contributing to the clogging of your sand paper. If this is the case, then, yeah, 'most any sand paper will likely clog up. As Karl mentioned, on the other thread, try a card/cabinet scraper. For that small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife blade can be used as a card scraper. I don't want to sound rude, but it seems you've been dealing with this issue for some time. Another option is to find a woodworker, with some decent hand planes, in your area, and ask for some assistance. Most woodworkers I know (as posters, here) would be happy to help, probably at no cost. Sonny My core samples are all dry wood. None of the universities use planers but use sandpaper instead which suggests that maybe a planer would not work as well on surfacing the cores to provide a smooth enough surface to count the tree rings. |
#17
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 6:45:42 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 3:49:41 AM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote: Have no fear. While you can't just buy a cheap plane and use it out-of-the-box, a variety of useful planes are available, and a simple whetstone (maybe an angle guide, too) is all it takes to put a fine edge on it. The small amount of wood you want to remove (a few cubic centimeters) will make crumbs if your edge is too dull, shavings if it's sharp enough. And clean enough (gotta keep the sole and edge free of sap). Agreed. A reasonable, yet not terribly expensive, plane is likely all you need. It's not that hard to hone the iron (after initial sharpening), with 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sand paper. I assume your core sample is greem wood, or has some higher moisture content, than "typical(?) dried wood", hence that moisture is contributing to the clogging of your sand paper. If this is the case, then, yeah, 'most any sand paper will likely clog up. As Karl mentioned, on the other thread, try a card/cabinet scraper. For that small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife blade can be used as a card scraper. I don't want to sound rude, but it seems you've been dealing with this issue for some time. Another option is to find a woodworker, with some decent hand planes, in your area, and ask for some assistance. Most woodworkers I know (as posters, here) would be happy to help, probably at no cost. Sonny There is an organization that uses a "core microtome" to surface cores using BA-50 NT cutter blades. The only problem is that they can only surface one or two samples before the blade becomes dull and they have to replace it. Would not the same thing happen with a hand plane or is the steel of a better quality? |
#18
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On 6/16/2016 10:01 AM, wrote:
Almost every university uses sanpaper to surface the cores. The surface must be flat in order to count the rings; an increment borer produces a rounded surface. I don't mind being rude at all. Have you actually tried any of the solutions offered here? Seems like you have a comeback for every suggestion ... here's another: If you haven't done so, do what academic research is supposedly about .... "experiment". -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#19
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 10:10:09 AM UTC-5, wrote:
There is an organization that uses a "core microtome" to surface cores using BA-50 NT cutter blades. The only problem is that they can only surface one or two samples before the blade becomes dull and they have to replace it. Would not the same thing happen with a hand plane or is the steel of a better quality? A sharp hand plane should do well. That's what planes are for, slicing wood. Those NT cutter blades are cheap. Replacing them should be no problem. Even surgical scalpel blades need to be changed now and then. A straight edged carving chisel blade or a paring chisel is (or can be) razor sharp, also, and might be cheaper than a hand plane. Sonny |
#20
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#21
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#22
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 12:33:21 PM UTC-4, Doug Miller wrote:
wrote in : My core samples are all dry wood. None of the universities use planers but use sandpaper instead which suggests that maybe a planer would not work as well on surfacing the cores to provide a smooth enough surface to count the tree rings. Not a planer, a plane. A planer is a power tool for surfacing wood, a plane is a hand tool. I meant the hand tool. |
#23
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
Doug Miller wrote:
wrote in : On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:26:32 PM UTC-4, Bob Villa wrote: On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote: [...] The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly [...] I have only tried gator There's part of your problem -- that stuff is crap. Use 3M or Norton instead, and garnet (reddish brown) or corundum (black) abrasive instead of aluminum oxide. Corundum IS aluminum oxide. The black is silicon carbide (AKA carborundum) or - maybe - emery (AKA corundum) which is ALSO aluminum oxide. Why did you suggest garnet? |
#24
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#25
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On 6/16/2016 5:45 AM, Sonny wrote:
As Karl mentioned, on the other thread, try a card/cabinet scraper. For that small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife blade can be used as a card scraper. I have actually used a Hyde scraper (with a new blade) to make half round stock out of off-the-shelf, wooden dowel rods. Amazing how quickly it worked. While the grain direction is different with a tree ring core, and as long as it has been dried, I would at least try a careful application of a properly scrapper, it might now work with some woods. If that didn't work, a sharp razor/exacto blade. AMMOF, in a botany course in college 50 years ago, I used a sharp knife to do the same thing the OP is agonizing over. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#26
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
"dadiOH" wrote in :
Doug Miller wrote: wrote in : On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:26:32 PM UTC-4, Bob Villa wrote: On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote: [...] The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly [...] I have only tried gator There's part of your problem -- that stuff is crap. Use 3M or Norton instead, and garnet (reddish brown) or corundum (black) abrasive instead of aluminum oxide. Corundum IS aluminum oxide. The black is silicon carbide (AKA carborundum) or - maybe - emery (AKA corundum) which is ALSO aluminum oxide. Why did you suggest garnet? Yes, you're right, I meant carborundum, not corundum. I suggested garnet because IME garnet sandpapers wear *much* better than aluminum oxide papers. Garnet seems to stay sharper a lot longer. |
#27
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
wrote in message
... I currently use successive grits of sandpaper to smooth down the end grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even after rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth. Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What brand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest finish under this situation? The "wood experts" in my club either use a plane or chisel to clean up end grain as part of the wood identification process. They use a loupe in their work and look at the cell structure to help make a determination as to species. Unless you are trying to clean up the whole end of a log, for example, I'd think that a half-way decent 1/2" chisel, properly sharpened, would suffice for your purposes. If the wood is smooth to begin with, and relatively large, even a properly prepared card scrapper may suffice as all you need to do is remove the oxidized surface. Quite frankly, crosscuts of dried wood made with my freshly sharpened Forrest WWII are very clean. Under magnification I can generally see the cells of most species without any further preparation effort... |
#28
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On 6/16/2016 3:57 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in : Doug Miller wrote: wrote in : On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:26:32 PM UTC-4, Bob Villa wrote: On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 8:19:51 PM UTC-5, wrote: [...] The only problem is that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly [...] I have only tried gator There's part of your problem -- that stuff is crap. Use 3M or Norton instead, and garnet (reddish brown) or corundum (black) abrasive instead of aluminum oxide. Corundum IS aluminum oxide. The black is silicon carbide (AKA carborundum) or - maybe - emery (AKA corundum) which is ALSO aluminum oxide. Why did you suggest garnet? Yes, you're right, I meant carborundum, not corundum. I suggested garnet because IME garnet sandpapers wear *much* better than aluminum oxide papers. Garnet seems to stay sharper a lot longer. Keep in mind that Garnet seems to stay sharp longer because it re- fractures with use and therefore creates new cutting surfaces. The drawback however is that as the garnet breaks down it also tends to change to a finer grit so sanding to a consistent smoothness with several pieces of paper over different surfaces might be tricky. If you are looking for a long lasting paper the Festool Granat, lite blue colored, sand paper lasts a very very long time compared to any paper I have used. It is very resistant to loading up, even when removing cured finishes. I have had a single piece of this paper last over the coarse of 2~3 complete projects and still remain sharp. It is now what I use exclusively. |
#29
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
In article ,
says... On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 10:06:16 PM UTC-4, wrote: wrote in : I have only tried gator Time to get out of Lowe's. Look for the Norton 3X paper and give that a try. You might be able to get a sample pack so you don't have to invest too much in the paper. I had some 3M 3x paper that fit the "mouse" sander. It was pretty decent stuff. If you're doing this on a regular basis, it might be worth looking at Festool. Their sander is half of the equation, the top quality papers is the other half. Festool is a "cry once" tool, as in you only cry when you buy it but never again. Puckdropper Does the Norton 3X paper come in grits higher than 400 grit since that is all I can find. Is there an auto parts store near you? If so try them. They should have sandpaper to thousand grit or higher. If there's a Woodcraft they have it to 12,000. |
#30
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On 6/16/2016 4:57 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
I suggested garnet because IME garnet sandpapers wear *much* better than aluminum oxide papers. 0 Garnet seems to stay sharper a lot longer. I have Garnet paper that has lasted over 40 years, because about the only time I use it is for facing jigs I don't want to slide. Garnet paper is hard to find because it wears poorly and has all but been replaced with aluminum oxide. It doesn't last long enough to worry about staying sharp, both I guess is due to it's easiness to fracture. Its main claim to fame is it's cheap, and it is. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#31
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 6:07:23 AM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
In article , says... On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 10:06:16 PM UTC-4, wrote: wrote in : I have only tried gator Time to get out of Lowe's. Look for the Norton 3X paper and give that a try. You might be able to get a sample pack so you don't have to invest too much in the paper. I had some 3M 3x paper that fit the "mouse" sander. It was pretty decent stuff. If you're doing this on a regular basis, it might be worth looking at Festool. Their sander is half of the equation, the top quality papers is the other half. Festool is a "cry once" tool, as in you only cry when you buy it but never again. Puckdropper Does the Norton 3X paper come in grits higher than 400 grit since that is all I can find. Is there an auto parts store near you? If so try them. They should have sandpaper to thousand grit or higher. If there's a Woodcraft they have it to 12,000. I found aluminum oxide up to 400 grit. Since aluminum oxide does not seem to go above 400 grit, would silicone carbide last for wood? |
#32
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
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#33
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On 6/21/2016 7:34 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
wrote: I found aluminum oxide up to 400 grit. Since aluminum oxide does not seem to go above 400 grit Are you serious? (or trolling...) 800 grit: https://www.airgas.com/p/NOR66261139382 1200 grit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXDWRV4/ 1500 grit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXDWS9U/ https://www.amazon.com/SANDING-SHEET...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pol...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/3M-Tri-M-ite-...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-P...+dry+sandpaper |
#34
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
Just Wondering wrote:
On 6/21/2016 7:34 PM, Spalted Walt wrote: wrote: I found aluminum oxide up to 400 grit. Since aluminum oxide does not seem to go above 400 grit Are you serious? (or trolling...) 800 grit: https://www.airgas.com/p/NOR66261139382 1200 grit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXDWRV4/ 1500 grit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXDWS9U/ https://www.amazon.com/SANDING-SHEET...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pol...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/3M-Tri-M-ite-...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-P...+dry+sandpaper Apparently you totally missed the "aluminum oxide" part. :-/ |
#35
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
On 6/22/2016 5:05 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Just Wondering wrote: On 6/21/2016 7:34 PM, Spalted Walt wrote: wrote: I found aluminum oxide up to 400 grit. Since aluminum oxide does not seem to go above 400 grit Are you serious? (or trolling...) 800 grit: https://www.airgas.com/p/NOR66261139382 1200 grit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXDWRV4/ 1500 grit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UXDWS9U/ https://www.amazon.com/SANDING-SHEET...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Pol...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/3M-Tri-M-ite-...rit+sand+paper https://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-P...+dry+sandpaper Apparently you totally missed the "aluminum oxide" part. :-/ Did you see jcoruddata's original post? "Is there anything wrong with [the] type of sandpaper I use?" "What type of sandpaper would provide the cleanest finish? The query obviously is not limited to an aluminum oxide solution. |
#36
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Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope
In article ,
says... On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 6:07:23 AM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote: In article , says... On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 10:06:16 PM UTC-4, wrote: wrote in : I have only tried gator Time to get out of Lowe's. Look for the Norton 3X paper and give that a try. You might be able to get a sample pack so you don't have to invest too much in the paper. I had some 3M 3x paper that fit the "mouse" sander. It was pretty decent stuff. If you're doing this on a regular basis, it might be worth looking at Festool. Their sander is half of the equation, the top quality papers is the other half. Festool is a "cry once" tool, as in you only cry when you buy it but never again. Puckdropper Does the Norton 3X paper come in grits higher than 400 grit since that is all I can find. Is there an auto parts store near you? If so try them. They should have sandpaper to thousand grit or higher. If there's a Woodcraft they have it to 12,000. I found aluminum oxide up to 400 grit. Since aluminum oxide does not seem to go above 400 grit, would silicone carbide last for wood? Works fine. 1000 grit shouldn't have a lot to do--you should have been through 600 and 800 first. If you want 1000 grit specifically for wood and can't find it elsewhere, Klinspor is a good source https://www.woodworkingshop.com/ |
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