I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.
......

What adhesive would you recommend?

Rather than suggesting a particular adhesive, I'd recommend an alternative:

Glue a layer of Kraft (shopping bag) paper around the dowel. First saturate the paper with glue, wrap it around the dowel and let it dry. If it fits well, glue the dowel into the hole. If it's too large, lightly sand the pin until it fits, and then glue it. Use the same glue. Titebond III would be a good choice.

On 04/05/2016 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

I'd first as the other respondent says, work to fixup the fit; but
before specific repair I'd ask if these have any value as "real"
antiques or are they "simply furniture"?

If the former it's important as to potential value to not do anything
irreversible.

Can you tell what might have been the glue type used from remnants?

Also is the leg into which the dowel fits also oak and what shape is the
wood in--that is, is it clean-enough that it will take glue or is there
old glue or previous "repair" damage as well?

--

In article ,
Jon Danniken wrote:

I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

First carefully remove ALL the old glue from both the dowel and the
hole. then see if you can wiggle the dowel. If you can, glue thin veneer
around it, and if necessary sand for a snug fit, then use wood glue
(titebond, etc) to secure it in the hole. If it still doesn't wiggle,
try wrapping the dowel with paper (from your printer) until it is snug.
Then glue paper to dowel then glue dowel into hole

On 4/5/16 9:43 AM, wrote:

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit. ......

What adhesive would you recommend?

Rather than suggesting a particular adhesive, I'd recommend an
alternative:

Glue a layer of Kraft (shopping bag) paper around the dowel. First
saturate the paper with glue, wrap it around the dowel and let it
dry. If it fits well, glue the dowel into the hole. If it's too
large, lightly sand the pin until it fits, and then glue it. Use the
same glue. Titebond III would be a good choice.


If you saturate the paper, that means you end up with dried glue on the
outer surface of the dowel. I've never been able to glue cured glued to
anything. The dowel may stay in the hole better than it does, now, but
I doubt it will be glued in there.

I think that is a valid technique only if the glue *doesn't* saturate
the paper in the first step of the process.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 4/5/16 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon


It was a fairly common practice back in the day to expand a peg or dowel
by inserting a nail or wedge into the end of the peg/dowel. Think of
an older hammer.
Google "dowel wedge" and look at the images.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 4/5/2016 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/5/16 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon


It was a fairly common practice back in the day to expand a peg or dowel
by inserting a nail or wedge into the end of the peg/dowel. Think of
an older hammer.
Google "dowel wedge" and look at the images.


A slightly different approach

Could you use one of the expanding glues like Gorilla glue?

I like Gorilla Glue but do not use it as most of my gluing is in
biscuits in picture frames. Maybe an irrational fear but I am concern
that it would spit the when it expanded in the slot.

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ...

I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon


I'd be inclined to use a blind wedge... i.e., cut a slit in the end of the
tenon, insert a thin wedge of a length appropriate to fully seat when the
tenon is driven into the mortise... See the Blind Mortise section of
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Wedged_joint for a visual of how
this would work. Note that it is important to orient the slit/wedge so as to
not split the mortise, e.g., orient across the grain of the mortise not with
it. Remove all the old glue possible from the tenon and mortise before
starting so you can judge how much of a wedge is needed and yield a good
glue joint... Keep in mind that it would not take much of a wedge to tighten
up the tenon... standard wood glue would suffice. Note too that this is a
one shot deal so maybe practice on some scrap first!

Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

The blind wedge with yellow glue or epoxy would work well; trouble is, it
can be tricky to get the slot in the dowel and the wedge "just right" so
that the dowel can be inserted fully but expanded by the wedge. As someone
said, you want the slot cross grain. It also helps to drill a small (1/8")
hole through the dowel at the end of the kerf, keeps the dowel from
splitting. Life is easier if you can taper the perimeter of the hole; wide
at the bottom, tapering up as far as the slit in the dowel is long. Might
be able to do that with a dovetail bit.

If that is too much trouble, use epoxy. As the fit is now, plain epoxy
would work well. If, after cleaning both dowel and hole, the dowel is
"wiggle loose", thicken the epoxy with saw dust, micro baloons, or Cabosil.

Best to use epoxy in the hole rather on the dowel, minimizes squeeze out.
Any that does squeeze out can be wiped off, then cleaned more thoroughly
with a cloth dampened with vinegar. Note that it takes regular epoxy
several hours to harden, several days to fully cure.

On 4/5/2016 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon


Chances are that the dowel still has old glue on it and or the hole
does. Typically that needs to be removed for new "regular" wood glue to
stick. If there is not glue at all the new regular wood glue will cause
some swelling and you may be just fine with using that.

To insure a tight fit regardless I would advise using Epoxy but keep in
mind that will pretty much be a permanent bond, one that you will have
great difficulty in removing should it need to come apart in the future.

And or several tips from Woodcraft.

http://www.woodcraft.com/articles/27...pair-tips.aspx

Paper included in joinery does not work as a fix. Old wood turners used to use the trick of gluing a sheet of paper between a finished piece and a turning plate and then split the piece cleanly off after turning on the paper line. I immediately thought of that when paper filler was suggested.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ma...t-glue-joints/

I would go with the good advice you have so far, and that is clean both hole and dowel as well as possible, then use a thick gel type glue like epoxy or even PL400 for a fix. If it isn't a priceless piece, then pop an 18 ga brad in the end of dowel from the outside of the hole (chair leg?) and it will never break again.

Robert

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

--
Jeff

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:54:54 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On 4/5/2016 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/5/16 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon


It was a fairly common practice back in the day to expand a peg or dowel
by inserting a nail or wedge into the end of the peg/dowel. Think of
an older hammer.
Google "dowel wedge" and look at the images.


A slightly different approach

Could you use one of the expanding glues like Gorilla glue?

I like Gorilla Glue but do not use it as most of my gluing is in
biscuits in picture frames. Maybe an irrational fear but I am concern
that it would spit the when it expanded in the slot.

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

There is no strength in the foam that Gorilla glue produces. It's almost
like a Styrofoam peanut. You can easily squeeze it with your fingers.

It will fill a gap, but it's purely cosmetic, if it can even be called that.

woodchucker wrote in
:

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

First thing is, as someone else said, does this furniture have
any value as an antique? If so, you are probably going to want
to glue it in the same fashion as originally, which likely means
using hide glue and some mechanical means to tighten the fit of
the dowel in the hole (wrap with veneer, fox-wedge, or whatever).

Otherwise, if there's a gap, epoxy is your best bet. Note that
epoxy is different than "regular wood glue", it does not bond
well to a tight fit, you actually need a little bit of a gap.

OTOH, if you have a big enough gap that the epoxy will run out,
you can use sawdust or sanding dust (wood flour) (*) to make a
paste with the epoxy. This is just as strong as plain epoxy,
and will stay where you put it.

John

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

On 2016-04-05, John McCoy wrote:

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

I can't imagine why. The sawdust makes it a "reinforced resin", much
like those Kreg jigs everyone raves about.

nb

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 2:56:07 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
woodchucker wrote in
:

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

First thing is, as someone else said, does this furniture have
any value as an antique?

I recently had a number of pieces appraised at my house, pieces that came
from SWMBO's grandmother.

My sister recently had a number of pieces appraised at her house, pieces
that came from our grandparents and great-grandparents.

My brother stopped by an antiques dealer/consignment shop recently to get
some general information about selling older furniture/antiques.

3 different people talking to 3 different appraisers in 3 different states,
all getting basically the same answer:

Determining what a piece is "worth" is one thing. Finding a buyer at that
price is getting more and more difficult these days. The older folks who once
cherished finely built furniture, hand crafted china, etc. are dying off or
have all that they need. The younger generations don't care about the old
stuff because nobody furnishes their houses that way anymore.

The guy that came to my house basically told us that we had some really
nice pieces (both furniture and china) but not to expect to get anywhere
near the prices he quoted if we tried to sell it. He said to use his numbers
for insurance purposes, but don't expect even half that if we tried to sell
it.

When I mentioned the prices for pieces of china at sites like replacements.com,
he said that those prices are their retail prices, not what they would buy
the pieces from us for.

It's a shame that a lot of really nice isn't worth much anymore.

If so, you are probably going to want
to glue it in the same fashion as originally, which likely means
using hide glue and some mechanical means to tighten the fit of
the dowel in the hole (wrap with veneer, fox-wedge, or whatever).

Otherwise, if there's a gap, epoxy is your best bet. Note that
epoxy is different than "regular wood glue", it does not bond
well to a tight fit, you actually need a little bit of a gap.

OTOH, if you have a big enough gap that the epoxy will run out,
you can use sawdust or sanding dust (wood flour) (*) to make a
paste with the epoxy. This is just as strong as plain epoxy,
and will stay where you put it.

John

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:12:58 AM UTC-7, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair

What adhesive would you recommend?

The original glue was probably hide glue; I'd use that. Clean the hole, then
make a new dowel to fit, and reassemble. If the cleanout isn't perfect,
it doesn't matter; hide glue sticks to old glue.

On 4/5/2016 1:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:54:54 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On 4/5/2016 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/5/16 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon


It was a fairly common practice back in the day to expand a peg or dowel
by inserting a nail or wedge into the end of the peg/dowel. Think of
an older hammer.
Google "dowel wedge" and look at the images.


A slightly different approach

Could you use one of the expanding glues like Gorilla glue?

I like Gorilla Glue but do not use it as most of my gluing is in
biscuits in picture frames. Maybe an irrational fear but I am concern
that it would spit the when it expanded in the slot.

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

There is no strength in the foam that Gorilla glue produces. It's almost
like a Styrofoam peanut. You can easily squeeze it with your fingers.

It will fill a gap, but it's purely cosmetic, if it can even be called that.

I did not know that. I guess my main concern with gorilla glue that
the expansion in a biscuit slot is invalid.

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:57:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

There is no strength in the foam that Gorilla glue produces. It's almost
like a Styrofoam peanut. You can easily squeeze it with your fingers.

It will fill a gap, but it's purely cosmetic, if it can even be called that.

I remember when Gorilla Glue debuted, and it was huge. I was told by their rep I would never need another general adhesive, and I could get rid of my PL400, my carpenter's glue, and even some of my masonry glue that I use. Man was I excited.

Then reports came back from guys I trust that the glue simply didn't hold. Sometimes not at all. Guys in the woodturning club told me about failures.. The reps came back down and told us we needed to "wet" the surfaces with water before applying the glue.

I never used it because I can't warrant a repair that is going to fall apart, and I gave away all but one of my sample bottles to others. They didn't get satisfactory bonding, either.

My tool supplier and hardware guy at the time described it best: "It doesn't hold when it is supposed to, and does when you want it to."

They reduced their shelf space to one row of no more than six small bottles for the weekend warriors, and put the rest of the stuff we all used back out for sale.

FWIW, when I have extensive wood repair of badly damaged parts and pieces, I almost always use a good one hour epoxy that I buy at a local hobby store.. At the hobby store, it is inexpensive and haven't had a failure yet. If you have a day or two to let it set while you do other things, you can sand it smooth and do some light shaping as well.

Robert

In article ,
says...

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:57:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

There is no strength in the foam that Gorilla glue produces. It's almost
like a Styrofoam peanut. You can easily squeeze it with your fingers.

It will fill a gap, but it's purely cosmetic, if it can even be called that.

I remember when Gorilla Glue debuted, and it was huge. I was told by their rep I would never need another general adhesive, and I could get rid of my PL400, my carpenter's glue, and even some of my masonry glue that I use. Man was I excited.

Then reports came back from guys I trust that the glue simply didn't hold. Sometimes not at all. Guys in the woodturning club told me about failures. The reps came back down and told us we needed to "wet" the surfaces with water before applying the glue.

That last is good advice for most polyurethanes. The one-part
polyurethanes are generally moisture-cure and if the surfaces are too
dry it won't cure, at least not quickly. You don't have to soak the
surface, but dampen it a little.

I never used it because I can't warrant a repair that is going to fall apart, and I gave away all but one of my sample bottles to others. They didn't get satisfactory bonding, either.

My tool supplier and hardware guy at the time described it best: "It doesn't hold when it is supposed to, and does when you want it to."

They reduced their shelf space to one row of no more than six small bottles for the weekend warriors, and put the rest of the stuff we all used back out for sale.

FWIW, when I have extensive wood repair of badly damaged parts and pieces, I almost always use a good one hour epoxy that I buy at a local hobby store. At the hobby store, it is inexpensive and haven't had a failure yet. If you have a day or two to let it set while you do other things, you can sand it smooth and do some light shaping as well.

Robert

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 2:16:27 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:57:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

There is no strength in the foam that Gorilla glue produces. It's almost
like a Styrofoam peanut. You can easily squeeze it with your fingers.

It will fill a gap, but it's purely cosmetic, if it can even be called that.

I remember when Gorilla Glue debuted, and it was huge. I was told by their rep I would never need another general adhesive, and I could get rid of my PL400, my carpenter's glue, and even some of my masonry glue that I use. Man was I excited.

Then reports came back from guys I trust that the glue simply didn't hold.. Sometimes not at all. Guys in the woodturning club told me about failures. The reps came back down and told us we needed to "wet" the surfaces with water before applying the glue.

I don't know what instructions were on the bottles back then, but the wetting of the surfaces
is clearly mentioned on the bottles these days.

"Lightly dampen bonding surfaces with water."

I'm not propping the stuff up, just saying that maybe the guys didn't RTFM.


I never used it because I can't warrant a repair that is going to fall apart, and I gave away all but one of my sample bottles to others. They didn't get satisfactory bonding, either.

My tool supplier and hardware guy at the time described it best: "It doesn't hold when it is supposed to, and does when you want it to."

They reduced their shelf space to one row of no more than six small bottles for the weekend warriors, and put the rest of the stuff we all used back out for sale.

FWIW, when I have extensive wood repair of badly damaged parts and pieces, I almost always use a good one hour epoxy that I buy at a local hobby store. At the hobby store, it is inexpensive and haven't had a failure yet. If you have a day or two to let it set while you do other things, you can sand it smooth and do some light shaping as well.

Robert

On Tue, 5 Apr 2016 13:10:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 2:56:07 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
woodchucker wrote in
:

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

First thing is, as someone else said, does this furniture have
any value as an antique?

I recently had a number of pieces appraised at my house, pieces that came
from SWMBO's grandmother.

My sister recently had a number of pieces appraised at her house, pieces
that came from our grandparents and great-grandparents.

My brother stopped by an antiques dealer/consignment shop recently to get
some general information about selling older furniture/antiques.

3 different people talking to 3 different appraisers in 3 different states,
all getting basically the same answer:

Determining what a piece is "worth" is one thing. Finding a buyer at that
price is getting more and more difficult these days. The older folks who once
cherished finely built furniture, hand crafted china, etc. are dying off or
have all that they need. The younger generations don't care about the old
stuff because nobody furnishes their houses that way anymore.

The guy that came to my house basically told us that we had some really
nice pieces (both furniture and china) but not to expect to get anywhere
near the prices he quoted if we tried to sell it. He said to use his numbers
for insurance purposes, but don't expect even half that if we tried to sell
it.

When I mentioned the prices for pieces of china at sites like replacements.com,
he said that those prices are their retail prices, not what they would buy
the pieces from us for.

It's a shame that a lot of really nice isn't worth much anymore.


Just wait till you want to buy a piece, skies the limit. These guys
tell you that song and dance because some of it sits in stock for a
long time. But they will never give the stuff away at a lower price.

Antique flea markets are good for pieces that show wear, for the primo
stuff it depends on where you are at.

If so, you are probably going to want
to glue it in the same fashion as originally, which likely means
using hide glue and some mechanical means to tighten the fit of
the dowel in the hole (wrap with veneer, fox-wedge, or whatever).

Otherwise, if there's a gap, epoxy is your best bet. Note that
epoxy is different than "regular wood glue", it does not bond
well to a tight fit, you actually need a little bit of a gap.

OTOH, if you have a big enough gap that the epoxy will run out,
you can use sawdust or sanding dust (wood flour) (*) to make a
paste with the epoxy. This is just as strong as plain epoxy,
and will stay where you put it.

John

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 11:12:51 AM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 5 Apr 2016 13:10:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 2:56:07 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
woodchucker wrote in
:

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

First thing is, as someone else said, does this furniture have
any value as an antique?

I recently had a number of pieces appraised at my house, pieces that came
from SWMBO's grandmother.

My sister recently had a number of pieces appraised at her house, pieces
that came from our grandparents and great-grandparents.

My brother stopped by an antiques dealer/consignment shop recently to get
some general information about selling older furniture/antiques.

3 different people talking to 3 different appraisers in 3 different states,
all getting basically the same answer:

Determining what a piece is "worth" is one thing. Finding a buyer at that
price is getting more and more difficult these days. The older folks who once
cherished finely built furniture, hand crafted china, etc. are dying off or
have all that they need. The younger generations don't care about the old
stuff because nobody furnishes their houses that way anymore.

The guy that came to my house basically told us that we had some really
nice pieces (both furniture and china) but not to expect to get anywhere
near the prices he quoted if we tried to sell it. He said to use his numbers
for insurance purposes, but don't expect even half that if we tried to sell
it.

When I mentioned the prices for pieces of china at sites like replacements.com,
he said that those prices are their retail prices, not what they would buy
the pieces from us for.

It's a shame that a lot of really nice isn't worth much anymore.


Just wait till you want to buy a piece, skies the limit. These guys
tell you that song and dance because some of it sits in stock for a
long time. But they will never give the stuff away at a lower price.

In my case, it wasn't a song and dance, because I paid the guy a fee to
do an appraisal. There was no expectation of an exchange of money or goods.
This guy is often the "guest appraiser" at antique events/flea markets, etc.
in our area. When we made the appointment he told me "I charge by the hour.
Do yourself a favor: Number every item that you want me to appraise and
have a notebook ready. That way I can give you a brief explanation of the
item along with an insurance and possible retail price. You write it down
and we move on. That's much quicker and much cheaper for you."

He never offered to take anything off our hands "as a favor to us" or even
"If you want, I can try and sell it for you to what we'll get."

In my brother's case, the guy walked him around the shop, pointing out pieces
that were attractively priced, but not moving. He said that he had agreements
with many of the consignors that allowed him to lower the prices to get things
sold. He said that more and more lately, the buyers weren't looking for a good
price on quality furniture, they were looking for the cheapest price, period. There is so much of the older stuff on the market, no one is going to pay
decent money for any of it. He said that the consignors were often very
disappointed at what the piece eventually brought.


Antique flea markets are good for pieces that show wear, for the primo
stuff it depends on where you are at.

This 2014 article is just one of many that discuss the shrinking market
for antiques. The market gets even smaller for older pieces that show wear.
With the trend towards quality pieces selling at lower prices, no one wants
to buy great-grandma's armoire or dresser for anywhere near what the family
- or even the appraiser - values it at.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/06/ar...ue-market.html


If so, you are probably going to want
to glue it in the same fashion as originally, which likely means
using hide glue and some mechanical means to tighten the fit of
the dowel in the hole (wrap with veneer, fox-wedge, or whatever).

Otherwise, if there's a gap, epoxy is your best bet. Note that
epoxy is different than "regular wood glue", it does not bond
well to a tight fit, you actually need a little bit of a gap.

OTOH, if you have a big enough gap that the epoxy will run out,
you can use sawdust or sanding dust (wood flour) (*) to make a
paste with the epoxy. This is just as strong as plain epoxy,
and will stay where you put it.

John

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 3:32:28 AM UTC-7, J. Clarke wrote:

....we needed to "wet" the surfaces with water before applying the glue.

That last is good advice for most polyurethanes. The one-part
polyurethanes are generally moisture-cure and if the surfaces are too
dry it won't cure, at least not quickly. You don't have to soak the
surface, but dampen it a little.

It's not strictly water, it's anything hydroxyl (so, alcohol or ammonia would
do the same thing). I generally spread the glue on both surfaces,
to be sure it wets the wood, then spritz with a plant mister before assembly.

With large enough glue area, it's a good bond; use it when large surfaces
are available, but not completely smooth and flat. The void-filling
feature isn't going to save an undersize tenon, try one of the 'liquid nails'
adhesives if you want strength and fill.
to get things completely straight and flat, than

Throw away the old dowel and buy or make a new one, more fitting... you won't have to clean the old one.

As others have said, I vote to use epoxy. You don't have to clamp tight nor have to have a completely snug fit.

Sonny

notbob wrote in :

On 2016-04-05, John McCoy wrote:

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

I can't imagine why. The sawdust makes it a "reinforced resin", much
like those Kreg jigs everyone raves about.

Lew is/was a huge beleiver in microballoons. Which are great,
especially if you care about the weight of the completed
project, but not everyone keeps a 50lb box of microballoons
on hand, or has a West Marine store handy to buy some.

Pretty much every woodworker has sawdust.

John

Reading these posts, it reminds me of why I don't use GG. Anything that is fussy, takes extra steps, can be hit or miss in its application, or puts any doubt at all of failure never makes it to the job.

Robert

" wrote in
:

Reading these posts, it reminds me of why I don't use GG. Anything
that is fussy, takes extra steps, can be hit or miss in its
application, or puts any doubt at all of failure never makes it to
the job.

Robert


Funny, the same things could be said for why I don't like Olive Garden.

Puckdropper

On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 13:01:54 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Reading these posts, it reminds me of why I don't use GG. Anything that is fussy, takes extra steps, can be hit or miss in its application, or puts any doubt at all of failure never makes it to the job.

I will add another to the list, the bottle I bought was not moisture
tight enough it would have made a good mallet if it had a handle.

Mark

In article ,
says...

notbob wrote in :

On 2016-04-05, John McCoy wrote:

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

I can't imagine why. The sawdust makes it a "reinforced resin", much
like those Kreg jigs everyone raves about.

Lew is/was a huge beleiver in microballoons. Which are great,
especially if you care about the weight of the completed
project, but not everyone keeps a 50lb box of microballoons
on hand, or has a West Marine store handy to buy some.

But the institution known as a "hobby shop" is available in most
localities in the US.

Pretty much every woodworker has sawdust.

John

On 4/5/2016 9:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

IME, a fit that is "not snug ... but doesn't wiggle" is not that big of
an issue.

All you have to do is look at xray's of antiques to see how much "wiggle
room" is in some of those still solid joints.

If you really want to do it right, and it is indeed an antique glued
with hot hide glue, go with a real hide glue that will bond to
itself/reactivate the old glue, or, in lieu thereof, a very specific
modern incarnation _specifically_ "Old Brown" glue.

... but NOT one of the "liquid hide glues" on the market that don't
have to be heated.

Rockler has it:

http://www.rockler.com/old-brown-glue

If you find yourself using the old fashioned hot hide glue, warming the
parts with a dryer, and using the hot glue will most likely reactivate
the old glue and likely last another 100 years.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 10:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 11:12:51 AM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 5 Apr 2016 13:10:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 2:56:07 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
woodchucker wrote in
:

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

First thing is, as someone else said, does this furniture have
any value as an antique?

I recently had a number of pieces appraised at my house, pieces that came
from SWMBO's grandmother.

My sister recently had a number of pieces appraised at her house, pieces
that came from our grandparents and great-grandparents.

My brother stopped by an antiques dealer/consignment shop recently to get
some general information about selling older furniture/antiques.

3 different people talking to 3 different appraisers in 3 different states,
all getting basically the same answer:

Determining what a piece is "worth" is one thing. Finding a buyer at that
price is getting more and more difficult these days. The older folks who once
cherished finely built furniture, hand crafted china, etc. are dying off or
have all that they need. The younger generations don't care about the old
stuff because nobody furnishes their houses that way anymore.

The guy that came to my house basically told us that we had some really
nice pieces (both furniture and china) but not to expect to get anywhere
near the prices he quoted if we tried to sell it. He said to use his numbers
for insurance purposes, but don't expect even half that if we tried to sell
it.

When I mentioned the prices for pieces of china at sites like replacements.com,
he said that those prices are their retail prices, not what they would buy
the pieces from us for.

It's a shame that a lot of really nice isn't worth much anymore.


Just wait till you want to buy a piece, skies the limit. These guys
tell you that song and dance because some of it sits in stock for a
long time. But they will never give the stuff away at a lower price.

In my case, it wasn't a song and dance, because I paid the guy a fee to
do an appraisal. There was no expectation of an exchange of money or goods.
This guy is often the "guest appraiser" at antique events/flea markets, etc.
in our area. When we made the appointment he told me "I charge by the hour.
Do yourself a favor: Number every item that you want me to appraise and
have a notebook ready. That way I can give you a brief explanation of the
item along with an insurance and possible retail price. You write it down
and we move on. That's much quicker and much cheaper for you."

He never offered to take anything off our hands "as a favor to us" or even
"If you want, I can try and sell it for you to what we'll get."

In my brother's case, the guy walked him around the shop, pointing out pieces
that were attractively priced, but not moving. He said that he had agreements
with many of the consignors that allowed him to lower the prices to get things
sold. He said that more and more lately, the buyers weren't looking for a good
price on quality furniture, they were looking for the cheapest price, period. There is so much of the older stuff on the market, no one is going to pay
decent money for any of it. He said that the consignors were often very
disappointed at what the piece eventually brought.


Antique flea markets are good for pieces that show wear, for the primo
stuff it depends on where you are at.

This 2014 article is just one of many that discuss the shrinking market
for antiques. The market gets even smaller for older pieces that show wear.
With the trend towards quality pieces selling at lower prices, no one wants
to buy great-grandma's armoire or dresser for anywhere near what the family
- or even the appraiser - values it at.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/06/ar...ue-market.html


Well you could knock me over with a feather, I wasn't even aware of
this.

It would be a great time to restore a period house and furnish it,
flip a resto, done properly I think it could restore that whole market
and create a market at the same time.

But then come to think of it, I am appalled at what is happening to
old homes, like on this olde house where they semi fix up the outside
like a resto, then totally hack up the inside.


If so, you are probably going to want
to glue it in the same fashion as originally, which likely means
using hide glue and some mechanical means to tighten the fit of
the dowel in the hole (wrap with veneer, fox-wedge, or whatever).

Otherwise, if there's a gap, epoxy is your best bet. Note that
epoxy is different than "regular wood glue", it does not bond
well to a tight fit, you actually need a little bit of a gap.

OTOH, if you have a big enough gap that the epoxy will run out,
you can use sawdust or sanding dust (wood flour) (*) to make a
paste with the epoxy. This is just as strong as plain epoxy,
and will stay where you put it.

John

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

On 06 Apr 2016 21:13:23 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

" wrote in
:

Reading these posts, it reminds me of why I don't use GG. Anything
that is fussy, takes extra steps, can be hit or miss in its
application, or puts any doubt at all of failure never makes it to
the job.

Robert


Funny, the same things could be said for why I don't like Olive Garden.

Works for me, too.

On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 18:47:06 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

notbob wrote in :

On 2016-04-05, John McCoy wrote:

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

I can't imagine why. The sawdust makes it a "reinforced resin", much
like those Kreg jigs everyone raves about.

Lew is/was a huge beleiver in microballoons. Which are great,
especially if you care about the weight of the completed
project, but not everyone keeps a 50lb box of microballoons
on hand, or has a West Marine store handy to buy some.

Pretty much every woodworker has sawdust.

Leon keeps telling us that he doesn't have any. ;-)

On 4/6/2016 2:16 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:57:46 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Would your dowel be a candidate for something like Gorilla Glue?

There is no strength in the foam that Gorilla glue produces. It's almost
like a Styrofoam peanut. You can easily squeeze it with your fingers.

It will fill a gap, but it's purely cosmetic, if it can even be called that.

I remember when Gorilla Glue debuted, and it was huge. I was told by their rep I would never need another general adhesive, and I could get rid of my PL400, my carpenter's glue, and even some of my masonry glue that I use. Man was I excited.

Then reports came back from guys I trust that the glue simply didn't hold. Sometimes not at all. Guys in the woodturning club told me about failures. The reps came back down and told us we needed to "wet" the surfaces with water before applying the glue.

I never used it because I can't warrant a repair that is going to fall apart, and I gave away all but one of my sample bottles to others. They didn't get satisfactory bonding, either.

My tool supplier and hardware guy at the time described it best: "It doesn't hold when it is supposed to, and does when you want it to."

They reduced their shelf space to one row of no more than six small bottles for the weekend warriors, and put the rest of the stuff we all used back out for sale.

FWIW, when I have extensive wood repair of badly damaged parts and pieces, I almost always use a good one hour epoxy that I buy at a local hobby store. At the hobby store, it is inexpensive and haven't had a failure yet. If you have a day or two to let it set while you do other things, you can sand it smooth and do some light shaping as well.

Robert

That was my experience, only I used it first hand.
I would rate it mediocre.

Epoxy would be a better choice.



--
Jeff

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 9:55:38 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 10:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 11:12:51 AM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 5 Apr 2016 13:10:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 2:56:07 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
woodchucker wrote in
:

On 4/5/2016 10:12 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel
pin extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to
a front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out
of the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the
hole, but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack
of a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

So first, you probably have hide glue in the socket.
you need to clean that out.

Epoxy is an excellent filling glue. No other glue is as strong for
filling in my opinion.

But you need a clean hole that does not have a lot remnants of the old
hide glue. This is so the epoxy can bite into the wood, not the glue.

First thing is, as someone else said, does this furniture have
any value as an antique?

I recently had a number of pieces appraised at my house, pieces that came
from SWMBO's grandmother.

My sister recently had a number of pieces appraised at her house, pieces
that came from our grandparents and great-grandparents.

My brother stopped by an antiques dealer/consignment shop recently to get
some general information about selling older furniture/antiques.

3 different people talking to 3 different appraisers in 3 different states,
all getting basically the same answer:

Determining what a piece is "worth" is one thing. Finding a buyer at that
price is getting more and more difficult these days. The older folks who once
cherished finely built furniture, hand crafted china, etc. are dying off or
have all that they need. The younger generations don't care about the old
stuff because nobody furnishes their houses that way anymore.

The guy that came to my house basically told us that we had some really
nice pieces (both furniture and china) but not to expect to get anywhere
near the prices he quoted if we tried to sell it. He said to use his numbers
for insurance purposes, but don't expect even half that if we tried to sell
it.

When I mentioned the prices for pieces of china at sites like replacements.com,
he said that those prices are their retail prices, not what they would buy
the pieces from us for.

It's a shame that a lot of really nice isn't worth much anymore.


Just wait till you want to buy a piece, skies the limit. These guys
tell you that song and dance because some of it sits in stock for a
long time. But they will never give the stuff away at a lower price.

In my case, it wasn't a song and dance, because I paid the guy a fee to
do an appraisal. There was no expectation of an exchange of money or goods.
This guy is often the "guest appraiser" at antique events/flea markets, etc.
in our area. When we made the appointment he told me "I charge by the hour.
Do yourself a favor: Number every item that you want me to appraise and
have a notebook ready. That way I can give you a brief explanation of the
item along with an insurance and possible retail price. You write it down
and we move on. That's much quicker and much cheaper for you."

He never offered to take anything off our hands "as a favor to us" or even
"If you want, I can try and sell it for you to what we'll get."

In my brother's case, the guy walked him around the shop, pointing out pieces
that were attractively priced, but not moving. He said that he had agreements
with many of the consignors that allowed him to lower the prices to get things
sold. He said that more and more lately, the buyers weren't looking for a good
price on quality furniture, they were looking for the cheapest price, period. There is so much of the older stuff on the market, no one is going to pay
decent money for any of it. He said that the consignors were often very
disappointed at what the piece eventually brought.


Antique flea markets are good for pieces that show wear, for the primo
stuff it depends on where you are at.

This 2014 article is just one of many that discuss the shrinking market
for antiques. The market gets even smaller for older pieces that show wear.
With the trend towards quality pieces selling at lower prices, no one wants
to buy great-grandma's armoire or dresser for anywhere near what the family
- or even the appraiser - values it at.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/06/ar...ue-market.html


Well you could knock me over with a feather, I wasn't even aware of
this.

It would be a great time to restore a period house and furnish it,
flip a resto, done properly I think it could restore that whole market
and create a market at the same time.

But then come to think of it, I am appalled at what is happening to
old homes, like on this olde house where they semi fix up the outside
like a resto, then totally hack up the inside.

On the other hand, there is something to be said for the look of a period
house on the outside and the convenience of a modern home on the inside.

If you are going to live in a house, why not make it work in a way that
fits your lifestyle? Would you want to live in a house with 4 small
bedrooms and one shared bathroom or would it make more sense to combine
2 bedrooms to create a master with an en suite?

I helped a friend convert the small kitchen and wood storage room of
a farmhouse into a huge modern kitchen. We took out a fireplace, dropped
the chimney (that's a story undo itself!) removed a wall. Meanwhile,
the outside of the house was restored to it's original beauty, including
the replacement/repair of 3 brick stoops.

Neither of the interior remodels would match the period of the exterior,
by why would you subject yourself to the "inconvenience" of a period
interior just to say that you did a complete restoration?



If so, you are probably going to want
to glue it in the same fashion as originally, which likely means
using hide glue and some mechanical means to tighten the fit of
the dowel in the hole (wrap with veneer, fox-wedge, or whatever).

Otherwise, if there's a gap, epoxy is your best bet. Note that
epoxy is different than "regular wood glue", it does not bond
well to a tight fit, you actually need a little bit of a gap.

OTOH, if you have a big enough gap that the epoxy will run out,
you can use sawdust or sanding dust (wood flour) (*) to make a
paste with the epoxy. This is just as strong as plain epoxy,
and will stay where you put it.

John

(* wonder what happened to Lew Hodgett? He'd always take
exception to the idea of thickening epoxy with sawdust)

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

Neither of the interior remodels would match the period of the
exterior, by why would you subject yourself to the "inconvenience" of
a period interior just to say that you did a complete restoration?

I'd agree. Times change, people have smaller families,
there are appliances that didn't exist 100 years ago, we
tend to have more stuff and at the same time don't like
the "overfilled" rooms the Victorians were so fond of.

I would say that unless a house is "historic" (e.g.
Washington slept there or something) it's better to put
it to use than to try and preserve it unchanged.

John

In article ,
says...

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

Neither of the interior remodels would match the period of the
exterior, by why would you subject yourself to the "inconvenience" of
a period interior just to say that you did a complete restoration?

I'd agree. Times change, people have smaller families,
there are appliances that didn't exist 100 years ago, we
tend to have more stuff and at the same time don't like
the "overfilled" rooms the Victorians were so fond of.

I would say that unless a house is "historic" (e.g.
Washington slept there or something) it's better to put
it to use than to try and preserve it unchanged.

John

Apparently we are also taller. Friend of mine had a house built in the
1700s. All the railings and banisters seemed to have been sized for
midgets. I'm surprised nobody ever tripped over one and took a header
down the stairwell.

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 9:12:58 AM UTC-5, Jon Danniken wrote:
I have been asked to re-glue a dowel pin (~3/4" diameter) on an old
(~100 year) oak chair (part of a dining room table set). The dowel pin
extends out of the lower support arm which connects a back leg to a
front leg (both on the same side).

When I say "less than snug", I mean that the dowel comes in and out of
the hole with no resistance. It doesn't really "wiggle" in the hole,
but it is certainly not a snug fit.

I was originally considering a regular wood glue, but given the lack of
a snug fit, I an reconsidering that.

What adhesive would you recommend?

Jon

If no one else has recommended this, why don't your ream the hole with a drill bit (going up by 1/64th increments until you get solid wood) and turn a new dowel? Then use a very good wood glue and put the piece back together.

On Tue, 5 Apr 2016 07:12:52 -0700
Jon Danniken wrote:

What adhesive would you recommend?

hide glue mixed with some oak sawdust

or cut a groove in the end and then use a wedge and hide glue

if you plan on taking it to the antique roadshow talk to a restorer