.... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

On 10/22/15 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Looks like a viable technique.
I don't see anything unsafe with his *method.*
However, as I've said so many times before, those stupid birds-mouth
push sticks are very UNsafe. I cringe when I see him using them for
doing that.
The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd only
use a shoe-style push block.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Greg Guarino wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John

On 10/22/2015 10:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

I can't stand Glen Huey.
He always shows the most unsafe methods of working.

A jointer can be used to tape legs. Would I do it the way he did?
Absolutely now. I would put the piece up on the outfeed in the same
spot each time and work from there. It self tapers.
His way is dangerous.

I can show you some pics of a book that I have that he does some
unbelievable stupid methods of work.

He should not be teaching others how to do things.



--
Jeff

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:19:17 -0400
Greg Guarino wrote:

(using a jointer to taper legs)

it looks strange with those sticks

if it feels unsafe then it probably is
i guess he is comfortable doing it that way

the process seems slow though
did he go slower for the camera

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Not terribly _un_safe, no, altho I'd not do that significant a taper
wholly with the jointer and certainly not in as large a bite
(particularly in hardwood which would likely be the target for most
furniture legs).

As another said, I'd use the "start in the middle on the outfeed table"
technique for small tapers; as another said that much of a taper would
(should imo) be cut on the bandsaw and cleaned up either as that poster
said w/ handplane or I often do use one or two quick _very_ light passes
over the jointer instead...

Suit yourself on the style of pushstick; I've no real preference there,
but don't see any drastic problem with the traditional (probably 'cuz
that's what was raised with, if nothing else..)

--

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.

-MIKE- wrote in :


The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd only
use a shoe-style push block.

Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the
second cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that.
It's kind of an unusual application to want to raise the
leading edge of the work, usually you're trying to force the
leading edge down.

John

On 10/22/15 4:00 PM, John McCoy wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd
only use a shoe-style push block.

Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the second
cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's kind of an
unusual application to want to raise the leading edge of the work,
usually you're trying to force the leading edge down.

John


As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the back
side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points. A shoe
push block would be fine in doing that.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Absolutely safe, if a bit tricky and fussy on setup.

Back in December, at the request of a client, I put tapered legs on a
built-in extension of a kitchen peninsula.

The leg size she wanted was simply too big to cut on a 10" table saw
with tapering jig. I used the exact same method in your video above to
do the leg tapers on the jointer:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...2 44951950434

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.

Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.

And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
work pieces.

--

On 10/22/2015 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.


so I am not sure it assures repeatability more so than a tablesaw.
With the tablesaw, when you are done you can take a swipe on the
jointer. It's fully supported all the way through.
I truly dislike Glen's methods. Taking a point (the first few passes on
two points) and moving it to a spinning blade is asking for trouble.
We're not talking a tablesaw.

I believe that it might actually push back the point and slap the front
down to the table.
But those are my beliefs. I just posted something from the table book in
the binaries. It show's another Glen moment.



--
Jeff

What is the problem.
He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

On 10/22/2015 10:11 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
What is the problem.
He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write.
He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods
to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.

--
Jeff

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:31:48 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.

Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.

And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
work pieces.
To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?

You mean NORM in his early years ? Now that was nothing to behold!

He has cleaned up his act after having problems.

Using a table saw can be and often is just as tricky and dangerous.

A high speed blade with hook teeth ? and someone feeds stock into it.

Cutting joints on a table saw can be nasty.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 9:24 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/22/2015 10:11 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
What is the problem.
He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write.
He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods
to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 21:39:33 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.


so I am not sure it assures repeatability more so than a tablesaw.
With the tablesaw, when you are done you can take a swipe on the
jointer. It's fully supported all the way through.
I truly dislike Glen's methods. Taking a point (the first few passes on
two points) and moving it to a spinning blade is asking for trouble.
We're not talking a tablesaw.

I believe that it might actually push back the point and slap the front
down to the table.
But those are my beliefs. I just posted something from the table book in
the binaries. It show's another Glen moment.
I've done similar in the past with no issues.

On 10/22/2015 10:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:31:48 -0500, wrote:

On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.

Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.

And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
work pieces.
To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?

Certainly more efficient and reproducible than the one-at-a-time of the
demo, yes. But, these aren't production woodworking groups; it is rec

--

Greg Guarino wrote:

email.me:

... or efficient?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

------------------------------
3/8" climb cuts are not my speed.

To many other ways to do the job.

Lew

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
"not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
_must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
operation on the BS.

--

On 10/23/2015 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
"not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
_must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
operation on the BS.

--

This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
ripping a board.

On 10/23/2015 12:22 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

email.me:

... or efficient?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

------------------------------
3/8" climb cuts are not my speed.

....

There's no "climb cut" anywhere to be seen -- a stopped cut, yes, but
it's into the cutter and is a normal operation on a jointer.

A climb cut is cutting with the material moving in the same direction as
the rotating cutter; that would be feeding from the outfeed table
towards the infeed and yes, if were suggesting that it would be a
definite no-no; but it isn't.

As I pointed out above, I'd worry some about the 3/8" in hardwoods
primarily just for quality of the cut and likelihood of tearout
(particularly with something like red oak that'd be _a_bad_idea_(tm) )
but looks like he's got a chunk of softwood in the demo.

It seems to me that many of what were considered routine operations 50+
year ago have been lost with the lack of industrial education. The
general use of the jointer as demonstrated is not out of the ordinary at
all; the only thing at all questionable in my opinion is that healthy
cut in "one swell foop" instead of a couple of passes.

I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...

--

On 10/23/2015 9:30 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/23/2015 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
"not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
_must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
operation on the BS.

--

This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
ripping a board.

Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood...
And, it's only a lick or two with a good plane.

--

-MIKE- wrote in :

On 10/22/15 4:00 PM, John McCoy wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd
only use a shoe-style push block.

Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the second
cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's kind of an
unusual application to want to raise the leading edge of the work,
usually you're trying to force the leading edge down.

As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the back
side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points. A shoe
push block would be fine in doing that.

You're kind of missing the point. The advantage of a shoe
type push block is it exerts it's force well forward of the
trailing edge of the work - which is desirable when you want
to keep the work flat, as on a table saw.

For this cut, tho, you don't want the force forward. You
want all of the downward force right at the trailing edge
of the work. You could do that with a shoe, but it's
probably easier to focus all the force on that point with
the birds-mouth.

John

On 10/23/15 10:58 AM, John McCoy wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:

On 10/22/15 4:00 PM, John McCoy wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if
he'd only use a shoe-style push block.

Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the
second cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's
kind of an unusual application to want to raise the leading edge
of the work, usually you're trying to force the leading edge
down.

As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the
back side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points.
A shoe push block would be fine in doing that.

You're kind of missing the point. The advantage of a shoe type push
block is it exerts it's force well forward of the trailing edge of
the work - which is desirable when you want to keep the work flat, as
on a table saw.

For this cut, tho, you don't want the force forward. You want all of
the downward force right at the trailing edge of the work. You could
do that with a shoe, but it's probably easier to focus all the force
on that point with the birds-mouth.

John


I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
blocks work.
Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a shoe
block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe block can
and would put downward force where it's needed for the procedure in this
video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately
size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)

I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
procedure.
You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with
two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/23/2015 9:36 AM, dpb wrote:
....

It seems to me that many of what were considered routine operations 50+
year ago have been lost with the lack of industrial education. The
general use of the jointer as demonstrated is not out of the ordinary at
all; the only thing at all questionable in my opinion is that healthy
cut in "one swell foop" instead of a couple of passes.

I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...

In fact, I venture there is a sizable fraction who don't even understand
what that little outcroppie thingie is there for at all...

--

On 10/22/2015 11:02 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
You mean NORM in his early years ? Now that was nothing to behold!

He has cleaned up his act after having problems.

Using a table saw can be and often is just as tricky and dangerous.

A high speed blade with hook teeth ? and someone feeds stock into it.

Cutting joints on a table saw can be nasty.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 9:24 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/22/2015 10:11 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
What is the problem.
He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do
this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.

Martin

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write.
He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods
to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.


Norm was never (that I saw) dangerous.
Glen, is usually dangerous (from what I have seen).


--
Jeff

On 10/23/2015 10:30 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/23/2015 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

I'd disagree w/ a typical small taper on a TS..the bandsaw, yes; TS,
"not so much". Not that it can't be but it's a lot more trouble as you
_must_ have a tapering sled for the TS whereas it's simply a freehand
operation on the BS.

--

This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
ripping a board.

Agreed. My tapering sled is also used to cleanup boards with no straight
edge.


--
Jeff

On 10/22/2015 11:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:31:48 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 10/22/2015 3:51 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:52:09 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Greg wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont-
email.me:

... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks
especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback
on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's
rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult
to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many
other machining operations.

(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a
hand plane).

John
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.

Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.

And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the
work pieces.
To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?


Really, you going to tape them together? Clamp them together???
I don't think so. Repeatable.
So is my tablesaw.



--
Jeff

dpb writes:
I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...

I had to do a set of 3/4x3/4 rabbets on some 6' boards recently. I
considered the jointer for a moment, then said "no way!". ended up
using the tablesaw (two cuts with a regular blade).

I think I've used that rabbeting shelf once, just to see how it worked.
Haven't dared use it since then.

On 10/23/2015 10:36 AM, dpb wrote:
I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...

That's what I was looking for when I found the video I asked about. I
could imagine a jointer being convenient for repeated rabbets.

I'm surprised that the tapering method seems to be a known,
semi-standard technique. That said, I doubt I'll be trying it.

On Fri, 23 Oct 2015 09:02:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

The Jointer was the tool of the day back 50 or more years ago for
tapers and stuff, and also for rabbits as in both cases they were very
clean and precise cuts.

BTW the guard has to come off for rabbits, there is no other way.

But I was shocked at the 3/8 " cut he was making right out of the
chute. I am surprised it didn't chock on it.

On 10/23/2015 3:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/23/2015 10:36 AM, dpb wrote:
I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...

That's what I was looking for when I found the video I asked about. I
could imagine a jointer being convenient for repeated rabbets.

I'm surprised that the tapering method seems to be a known,
semi-standard technique. That said, I doubt I'll be trying it.

I taper a lot of things via the jointer, albeit generally not in that
manner nor for things with that much taper; as said, I'd cut that to
near a line w/ the bandsaw and then just clean it up w/ the jointer (or
a hand plane depending on my mood and the particular piece ).

Mostly what I do is to start w/ a line and simply work to the line by
starting in the middle and repeat...but as said, it'd be rare indeed to
choose to take that much off on that steep an angle via the jointer alone...

For the doubters on the BS, there's an article in August FWW by Pekovich
of very nice dresser where he tapered the legs their length. One
illustration shows the taper cut in progress; you can see there'll be
very little handwork left when he's done...

--

On 10/23/2015 11:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/23/15 10:58 AM, John McCoy wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:

[snip]

I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
blocks work.
Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a shoe
block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe block can
and would put downward force where it's needed for the procedure in this
video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately
size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)

I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
procedure.
You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with
two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.

If the only tool you have is a hammer then every problem tends to be a
nail. Nothing wrong with birds mouth push sticks any more than there is
with shoe blocks, etc. The trick is to use the one most appropriate for
the job or... maybe custom make one for the job at hand.

I would not use the birds mouth stick as the gent did in the video...
at least not when I'm knocking 3/8" off of stock. I'd want much more
control than those will provide. OTOH, if the taper was going to be
subtle, like 3/8" total, depending on the type of stock I might be
comfortable using the birds mouth.

I suspect that those of us who get in trouble - and all of us do at one
time or another - fall into the trap of "I know this ain't the best
setup but..." It's quite similar to "Hey, hold my beer and watch
this!" g

Unquestionably Confused wrote in
eb.com:

On 10/23/2015 11:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
blocks work.
Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a
shoe block, not the only or even most important advantage. A shoe
block can and would put downward force where it's needed for the
procedure in this video. I have several shop-made shoe blocks of
differing sizes/lengths, all with can be made in the time it takes to
locate an appropriately size garbage can for storing a birdmouth
pushstick. :-)

I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
procedure.
You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure
with two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at
one time.

If the only tool you have is a hammer then every problem tends to be a
nail. Nothing wrong with birds mouth push sticks any more than there
is with shoe blocks, etc. The trick is to use the one most
appropriate for the job or... maybe custom make one for the job at
hand.

My point exactly. For that particular job, a push stick that
focused all the force at the trailing end would be most
appropriate. Which isn't to say another style wouldn't work,
it's more of a "better" and "best" situation.

As for a custom part, and to Mike's point about the difficulty
of using two push sticks, I think if I were going to use that
technique I'd try to find a way to use featherboards rather
than the second stick. Which might take a specially shaped
featherboard, or some sort of riser block to put it in the
right position.

John

On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.

That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
jointer to tape extra thick legs.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the
matter is infinite and unquestionable.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 10/24/2015 8:39 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Unquestionably Confused wrote in
eb.com:

On 10/23/2015 11:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I'm not missing any point and I know perfectly well how and why shoe
blocks work.
Exerting force forward of the trailing edge is *one* advantage of a


[snip]

My point exactly. For that particular job, a push stick that
focused all the force at the trailing end would be most
appropriate. Which isn't to say another style wouldn't work,
it's more of a "better" and "best" situation.

As for a custom part, and to Mike's point about the difficulty
of using two push sticks, I think if I were going to use that
technique I'd try to find a way to use featherboards rather
than the second stick. Which might take a specially shaped
featherboard, or some sort of riser block to put it in the
right position.

My thought on customizing the push block for doing the tapered leg on
the jointer was to make an "L-shaped" push block with the sides slightly
less width than the leg itself with a hook or edge on the near end to
firmly push. Made in this fashion I think it would provide adequate
support to hold down and snug the workpiece to the fence and table.
Again, just thinking aloud but that's what I'd do. (Think of those jigs
used to machine small parts on a router table. The jig firmly attached
(however) to the workpiece and the jig is way larger than the workpiece
for good control and safety.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:19:17 -0400
Greg Guarino wrote:

(using a jointer to taper legs)

another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get

i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one
but more importantly i have not needed one

so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video