wrote in :

Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or
power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more
foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw

I disagree; search for my post several years ago about "The Ultimate Taper Sled".

or band saw, and no
planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.

No planing needed with a good table saw blade either.

Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually
identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.

But trivially easy to accomplish with a properly-designed taper sled for the table saw. Much
safer, too.

dpb wrote in :

On 10/23/2015 9:30 AM, Leon wrote:
This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
ripping a board.

Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood...

That depends on the construction of the taper sled. If you cut your tapers top-to-bottom, with
the blade entering the side of the leg and exiting from the end, some blade deflection at the
beginning of the cut is almost inevitable, leaving cuts that need some cleanup. That's one of
the main reasons I designed and built what I called "TUTS - The Ultimate Taper Sled" (you
may remember my post about that several years ago). That sled cuts tapers from the bottom
up, with the blade entering the end of the leg and exiting from the side. There's no detectable
blade deflection, and what little cleanup needs to be done can be accomplished in under a
minute with a card scraper.

Swingman wrote in
:

On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.

That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
jointer to tape extra thick legs.

Even in that circumstance, I think I'd opt for roughing it on the band saw, followed by cleanup
on the jointer, rather than doing the entire job on the jointer.

On 10/24/2015 1:20 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
jointer to tape extra thick legs.

Even in that circumstance, I think I'd opt for roughing it on the band saw, followed by cleanup
on the jointer, rather than doing the entire job on the jointer.

Tried that, went back to the ful lmonte jointer method on stock too
thick to cut on the table saw.

Simply took too much time to get all legs to be exact replicas. Might be
me just being anal, but I look closely at things like that and it bugs
me no end to not see precisely dimensioned parts.

Much rather use one of my two tapering sleds, but simply can't cut 4"
square leg stock on them, and those damned aluminum taper jigs are
simply too treacherous ... waaaaay more so than the jointer method.

Not many people do it, was surprised to see it even mentioned here.

As usual, YMMV ...

--
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 10/24/2015 10:26 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:19:17 -0400
Greg Guarino wrote:

(using a jointer to taper legs)

another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get

i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one
but more importantly i have not needed one

so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video

Europeans have been using a jointer to taper parts for longer than dodo
and his video have been around.

Hell, you have to have decent jointer chops to use a jointer and NOT
taper a part, that's why you typically joint one face FIRST, and plane
the other parallel.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 10/24/2015 9:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/23/2015 9:02 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 9:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
... or efficient?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

(using a jointer to taper legs)

The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so
much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.

Except as noted in my post, when the leg stock is too thick to cut on a
10" bladed table saw, compounded further by the use of a sled.

That, and exact repeatability, is why I have occasionally used the
jointer to tape extra thick legs.


Absolutely, Thick legs/stock can be done on most any jointer, but in the
example, the stock was not very big.

On 10/24/2015 2:17 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
dpb wrote in :

On 10/23/2015 9:30 AM, Leon wrote:
This is true but I then, most likely, you have to clean that cut up.
And FWIW once you have the tapering sled it is not much different than
ripping a board.

Well, you'll have to cleanup the TS cut, too, in all likelihood...

That depends on the construction of the taper sled. If you cut your tapers top-to-bottom, with
the blade entering the side of the leg and exiting from the end, some blade deflection at the
beginning of the cut is almost inevitable, leaving cuts that need some cleanup. That's one of
the main reasons I designed and built what I called "TUTS - The Ultimate Taper Sled" (you
may remember my post about that several years ago). That sled cuts tapers from the bottom
up, with the blade entering the end of the leg and exiting from the side. There's no detectable
blade deflection, and what little cleanup needs to be done can be accomplished in under a
minute with a card scraper.


I started going from the bottom up, when I could not figure out why the
taper was at an angle at the top. I don't remember if it was the rec or
alt binaries where someone recommended bottom up.

My sled was capable either way. To me it seemed I was cutting against
the grain with this method, but the cuts were now square. And it has not
been a problem.

So I'll second your recommendation of cut from the bottom up. It solved
my problem.

--
Jeff

On 10/23/2015 12:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I have several shop-made shoe blocks of differing sizes/lengths,
all with can be made in the time it takes to locate an appropriately
size garbage can for storing a birdmouth pushstick. :-)

I still say a shoe block is better this (and just about any other)
procedure.
You can even see how uneasy the guy is with the birdsmouth sticks.
That's generally how it goes any time people try to do a procedure with
two pushsticks, trying to apply pressure in two directions at one time.

I almost always prefer birdsmouth sticks, particularly on the table saw.
I have zero problems applying pressure in two directions at the same
time. IMO (and considerable experience) Birdmouths are very safe, hard
to get hurt using them.

On the table saw, if the piece is large enough for a shoe block, I
generally just use my hand. If it's too small for my hand, I prefer to
use two birdsmouth, although in the last few years I have been using a
piece of 2x with a handle. I feel very comfortable using two birds on
the jointer when the piece is too small for a shoe type.

I see nothing particularly dangerous with his methods, although I never
did it, I think it looks like a great method, not sure about a 3/8" cut
on my jointer, unless I had a segmented spiral cutter head, which I
really wish I had on my jointer.


--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 10/24/2015 11:26 AM, Electric Comet wrote:

another thought is that a joiner is not at the top of the list of tools to get

i do not have a joiner and have no plans to get one
but more importantly i have not needed one

so maybe he was asked to find a use for the joiner and do a video

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I use
my jointer all the time, more than just for the planer, it is a very
nice tool to have, and is about mandatory if you use a planer, or do
much work with rough cut lumber.

Top of the list tool, probably not, nor is a planer, but they both are
needed in a cabinet shop.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 10/24/2015 6:39 PM, Swingman wrote:

Hell, you have to have decent jointer chops to use a jointer and NOT
taper a part, that's why you typically joint one face FIRST, and plane
the other parallel.

Amen to that. Near impossible to pull off. I quit trying long ago. Same
with snipe on a planer. I quit trying and simply add snipe to the cut
off list when possible.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 10/23/2015 2:34 PM, DJ Delorie wrote:
dpb writes:
I can't think when last time I saw/heard anybody suggest use of the
rabbeting table on the jointer as intended/designed...

I had to do a set of 3/4x3/4 rabbets on some 6' boards recently. I
considered the jointer for a moment, then said "no way!". ended up
using the tablesaw (two cuts with a regular blade).

I think I've used that rabbeting shelf once, just to see how it worked.
Haven't dared use it since then.

Ditto! Of the many ways to make a rabbet, this has to be the least
favorite. I did it exactly once for the same reason as you, just way
too much hassle for the the wrong tool to do the job. Well, it might be
better than using a motor-less rabbeting plane... yuck.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400
Jack wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400
Jack wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
point me towards your supplier :-).

On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack
wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but
I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
point me towards your supplier :-).


I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
4 feet.
I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.

A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels.
When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up
sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join
those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2
glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- writes:
On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack
wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but
I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
point me towards your supplier :-).


I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
4 feet.
I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.

A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels.
When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up
sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join
those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2
glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.

For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of
the planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used
for; particularly for panels as well as for making one face
coplaner with the other face. If I need to remove more than .125",
I'll often drag out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll
resaw thicker stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.
[*] Performax 22-44.

On 10/26/2015 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400
Jack wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
point me towards your supplier :-).


I often use my planer but got rid of my jointer about 5 years ago.
Certainly good to have if you surface rough cut lumber but I simply did
not use mine.

Flat wood. I go through the lumber that I buy to make sure I get
relatively flat wood. Past that If you buy S4S lumber that is not flat
a jointer is not going to do you any good either unless you are OK with
less than 3/4" thick. Selling my work I find that there is simply not
enough savings to mill the wood to final thickness and I go with S4S to
begin with. I only use my planer if I buy S2S or need less than 3/4"
thick material.

On 10/26/2015 1:15 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
-MIKE- writes:
On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack
wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand, but
I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found wood
and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to me,
unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do, please
point me towards your supplier :-).


I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths over
4 feet.
I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one side, though.

A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels.
When making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only glue-up
sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat, then join
those panels together for the final width. That leaves you with 1 or 2
glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or more.

For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of
the planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used
for; particularly for panels as well as for making one face
coplaner with the other face. If I need to remove more than .125",
I'll often drag out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll
resaw thicker stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.

[*] Performax 22-44.

Yeah! My Performax 22-44 sees lots of action too. If I can resaw the
sander gets the work. If I need more than half the thickness of the
stock the planer gets the work out.

On 10/26/15 1:15 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
-MIKE- writes:
On 10/26/15 11:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 11:33:55 -0400 Jack
wrote:

Do you have a planer? Jointers and planers go hand in hand,
but I

i have a planer and deal with all kinds of old wood and found
wood and craigslist wood which is in a class all by itself

A planer without a jointer doesn't seem particularly useful to
me, unless you always buy perfectly flat lumber (and if you do,
please point me towards your supplier :-).


I have both, but my jointer is small and not much good for lengths
over 4 feet. I usually buy lumber that is at least flat on one
side, though.

A planer is also very useful for flattening joined panels. When
making panels wider than my planer (13"), I will often only
glue-up sections narrower than that, plane each one perfectly flat,
then join those panels together for the final width. That leaves
you with 1 or 2 glue joints to scrape even instead of a dozen or
more.

For the last few years, I've used the drum sander[*] in place of the
planer for almost everything the planer was formerly used for;
particularly for panels as well as for making one face coplaner with
the other face. If I need to remove more than .125", I'll often drag
out the Jet 15" planer, but more often than not I'll resaw thicker
stock rather than discarding (composting) piles of shavings.

[*] Performax 22-44.


I would love a wide sander like that!
The woodworking shows had a vendor called Stockroom Supply that sold
flatness sander kits for much cheaper than an industrial model. I still
may get one of those.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote in
:

[...]
those damned aluminum taper jigs are
simply too treacherous ... waaaaay more so than the jointer method.

No argument there.

On 10/24/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:

Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the
matter is infinite and unquestionable.

..

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/9/15 1:55 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/24/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:

Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in the
matter is infinite and unquestionable.


+100

I'm stealing that.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote:

On 10/24/2015 9:25 AM, Swingman wrote:

Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in
the matter is infinite and unquestionable.

.

Thank you Karl! I get in trouble when I speak my mind like that, so I'm
glad to see you do so.

--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote:

Never ceases to amaze me that folks who have no clue, and who so
obviously have no personal experience with regard to a woodworking
procedure, will continue to expound hereabouts as if their wisdom in
the matter is infinite and unquestionable.

Hey! This is my first post to this thread, and I am a lot more humble
than that! ; )

Bill

Bill wrote:

Hey! This is my first post to this thread, and I am a lot more humble
than that! ; )

Bill

And besides that Bill - you're just a nice guy

--

-Mike-