I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

On Sunday, August 16, 2015 at 1:07:27 PM UTC-7, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench ...Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

I'd start the process with a plunge router and a jig (carefully space pilot holes).
Then, proceed with a (Portalign or similar) drill guide, and
do step-and-repeat enlarging of the holes. Use a hole saw, with
a pilot pin instead of the usual pilot drill. You'll have to work
at clearing the sawdust, of course, and the little donuts
of wood will take a while to work out of the saw. That's
why the drill won't overheat. :-)

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-drill-guide/p-00967173000P

On 8/16/2015 4:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

I used a plunge router.
you just mount a piece of hardboard to it, put a fence on it.
Drill a hole however far you want the spacing.
Then drill them with the router.
Got an Onsrud HS 3/4 upcut bit.

As far as solid core door and mdf, they are not very good for dog holes.
But you'll find out. Solid core means particle board usually.

--
Jeff

I just drilled dog holes using an up spiral plunge router bit
I cut 2 holes in a template the size of the router base as a guide. Clamped the guide squarely to the edge off the bench.
A center line of the guide was lined up with a line on the table.
Also, I got the bit from MLCS.
Good luck, Kirk

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, August 16, 2015 at 1:07:27 PM UTC-7, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench ...Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

I'd start the process with a plunge router and a jig (carefully space pilot holes).
Then, proceed with a (Portalign or similar) drill guide, and
do step-and-repeat enlarging of the holes. Use a hole saw, with
a pilot pin instead of the usual pilot drill. You'll have to work
at clearing the sawdust, of course, and the little donuts
of wood will take a while to work out of the saw. That's
why the drill won't overheat. :-)

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-drill-guide/p-00967173000P

Forstner and a drill press is the obvious choice. Alternatively rig a
support for a hand drill with a Forstner. Be sure to clear the chips
regularly.

krw wrote in news:c1r1tapusd7cccm30nhon6spqpfgorr7vm@
4ax.com:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.


The dog holes don't need to be 90.0 degrees to the surface. Anything close
will do just fine. I drilled mine with a Forstner bit in a cordless drill.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.



Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

krw wrote in news:c1r1tapusd7cccm30nhon6spqpfgorr7vm@
4ax.com:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Not sure I understand why the weight is an issue. Whatever you're
drilling doesn't have to be supported by the drill press.

The dog holes don't need to be 90.0 degrees to the surface. Anything
close
will do just fine. I drilled mine with a Forstner bit in a cordless drill.

That should work.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 14:47:26 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Sunday, August 16, 2015 at 1:07:27 PM UTC-7, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench ...Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

I'd start the process with a plunge router and a jig (carefully space pilot holes).
Then, proceed with a (Portalign or similar) drill guide, and
do step-and-repeat enlarging of the holes. Use a hole saw, with
a pilot pin instead of the usual pilot drill. You'll have to work
at clearing the sawdust, of course, and the little donuts
of wood will take a while to work out of the saw. That's
why the drill won't overheat. :-)

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-drill-guide/p-00967173000P

The step and repeat process sounds like it'll be difficult to get
aligned properly. I looked at a drill guide quite similar to that at
Woodcraft on Saturday. It looked too fragile, though I was thinking
about a single pass with a 3/4" Forstner at the time.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:40:15 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, August 16, 2015 at 1:07:27 PM UTC-7, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench ...Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

I'd start the process with a plunge router and a jig (carefully space pilot holes).
Then, proceed with a (Portalign or similar) drill guide, and
do step-and-repeat enlarging of the holes. Use a hole saw, with
a pilot pin instead of the usual pilot drill. You'll have to work
at clearing the sawdust, of course, and the little donuts
of wood will take a while to work out of the saw. That's
why the drill won't overheat. :-)

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-drill-guide/p-00967173000P

Forstner and a drill press is the obvious choice. Alternatively rig a
support for a hand drill with a Forstner. Be sure to clear the chips
regularly.

The top weighs well over 100lbs. It's kinda unwieldy to get onto a
drill press. OTOH, it's now on wheels. I'll have to see if the
height is reasonable to get under the DP.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 20:42:28 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 4:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

I used a plunge router.
you just mount a piece of hardboard to it, put a fence on it.
Drill a hole however far you want the spacing.
Then drill them with the router.
Got an Onsrud HS 3/4 upcut bit.

That's where I was going but couldn't find a 3/4" upcut bit. Certainly
not one long enough.

As far as solid core door and mdf, they are not very good for dog holes.
But you'll find out. Solid core means particle board usually.

I hadn't planned on putting a vice on the table. The lateral loads
should be fairly trivial.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 23:44:53 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

krw wrote in news:c1r1tapusd7cccm30nhon6spqpfgorr7vm@
4ax.com:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Not sure I understand why the weight is an issue. Whatever you're
drilling doesn't have to be supported by the drill press.

I have to move it under the drill press.

The dog holes don't need to be 90.0 degrees to the surface. Anything
close
will do just fine. I drilled mine with a Forstner bit in a cordless drill.

That should work.

I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.

krw wrote:

I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

Stand a square up close to where you are drilling, helps a lot when eye
balling vertical.

On 8/17/2015 11:56 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"
May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.


But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
about 5/8.

Still expensive but not a bad price singly.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtool...drill_bits.htm





Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.

krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 23:44:53 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

krw wrote in
news:c1r1tapusd7cccm30nhon6spqpfgorr7vm@ 4ax.com:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door
with a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions
on how to drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2"
(1-3/4" door + 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Not sure I understand why the weight is an issue. Whatever you're
drilling doesn't have to be supported by the drill press.

I have to move it under the drill press.

The dog holes don't need to be 90.0 degrees to the surface.
Anything close will do just fine. I drilled mine with a Forstner
bit in a cordless drill.

That should work.

I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

What about one of those rigs that fits onto your drill motor and (attempts
to...) turn it into a hand held drill press? It's certainly portable, and
accurate enough for the task at hand.

--

-Mike-

On 8/17/2015 2:30 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 23:44:53 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

krw wrote in
news:c1r1tapusd7cccm30nhon6spqpfgorr7vm@ 4ax.com:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door
with a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions
on how to drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2"
(1-3/4" door + 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Not sure I understand why the weight is an issue. Whatever you're
drilling doesn't have to be supported by the drill press.

I have to move it under the drill press.

The dog holes don't need to be 90.0 degrees to the surface.
Anything close will do just fine. I drilled mine with a Forstner
bit in a cordless drill.

That should work.

I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

What about one of those rigs that fits onto your drill motor and (attempts
to...) turn it into a hand held drill press? It's certainly portable, and
accurate enough for the task at hand.


Yep, an old craftsman portalign is better than the current crop.

Do realize that MDF and forstner bits don't mix. The mdf does not cut
well, it clogs a forstner, at least thats my experience.

When dealing with mdf, the less flutes the better for router bits for
the same reason.

--
Jeff

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400
krw wrote:

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

you may not like this answer but i have learned to rely on just winging it
the more you do it the better the outcome
blow a bunch of holes in some waste stock to get the feel of it than keep
that memory and do it on the real stock

krw wrote in
:

*snip & trim*


I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

Imagine the bit extends through the drill and out the back about 2'. The
closer you get this imaginary bit to vertical, the closer the real one
will be.

Watch the bit as it starts to cut. A properly sharp twist bit will
remove equal shavings from both sides. Forstners are a little easier, as
you can watch the hole as it forms and make sure it's a consistent depth
the whole way around.

The drill block someone suggested ealier isn't a bad idea. Once you get
the bit started straight, it's usually pretty easy to keep it straight.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Sunday, 16 August 2015 21:07:27 UTC+1, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Clamp the drill press to the door and use it like a radial drill.

I used a plunge router and 3/4" bit. Router was a Porter Cable 7539 3 HP plunge router. It plunges 3 inches. Bit was carbide. I went through about 3 inches of wood bench top. I plunged most of the way through and then stopped. Lowered the bit in the clamp a little more then completed the full plunge through the wood. Clamped the router to the bench top so it would not move. Cannot recall how I made sure the holes were the same distance apart and lined up with the other side. Bench top has a line of holes along each edge.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:41:36 -0400, krw wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).

I know how my dad would have done it, brace and bit. Those tools I
have not yet gotten.

On 8/17/2015 4:10 PM, Limey Lurker wrote:
On Sunday, 16 August 2015 21:07:27 UTC+1, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Clamp the drill press to the door and use it like a radial drill.



That just might be heavier than moving the door to the DP.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 18:09:01 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:41:36 -0400, krw wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).

I know how my dad would have done it, brace and bit. Those tools I
have not yet gotten.

Perhaps. ...or he would have taken it to work and the machine shop
would have put it on one of their Bridgeports. ;-)

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 13:36:25 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:

I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

Stand a square up close to where you are drilling, helps a lot when eye
balling vertical.

I would need two. I don't have much of a problem with one axis but
the second always suffers.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:39:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/17/2015 11:56 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"

Yes, they're "5 Star". I bought them a years ago at the suggestion of
several here. Every time we went to Atlanta, I picked up a few at
Woodcraft. Now that we live in Atlanta (sorta), they no longer carry
them. :-(

May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.


But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
about 5/8.

Still expensive but not a bad price singly.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtool...drill_bits.htm

Oh, my. SWMBO isn't going to like that site! ;-)

Bookmarked. Thanks!



Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 18:12:54 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/17/2015 4:10 PM, Limey Lurker wrote:
On Sunday, 16 August 2015 21:07:27 UTC+1, krw wrote:
I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Clamp the drill press to the door and use it like a radial drill.



That just might be heavier than moving the door to the DP.

Yeah, it weighs more than 250lbs (it was fun moving it to the attic in
our last house and even more fun down the stairs).

I'd forgotten that I have a little toy HF drill press around here
somewhere. It's worth a try.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 15:55:21 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I used a plunge router and 3/4" bit. Router was a Porter Cable 7539 3 HP plunge router. It plunges 3 inches. Bit was carbide. I went through about 3 inches of wood bench top. I plunged most of the way through and then stopped. Lowered the bit in the clamp a little more then completed the full plunge through the wood. Clamped the router to the bench top so it would not move. Cannot recall how I made sure the holes were the same distance apart and lined up with the other side. Bench top has a line of holes along each edge.

That was my first thought. I never liked the idea of hand-holding a
3+ HP router but I doubt my green OF1400 would have a problem with it,
though. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I was going to use the
track to hold one dimension. I think it's time to experiment.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 20:41:50 -0400, krw wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 18:09:01 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:41:36 -0400, krw wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).

I know how my dad would have done it, brace and bit. Those tools I
have not yet gotten.

Perhaps. ...or he would have taken it to work and the machine shop
would have put it on one of their Bridgeports. ;-)

He had a Bridgeport in the basement, and a large metal lathe.

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 20:33:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 20:41:50 -0400, krw wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 18:09:01 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:41:36 -0400, krw wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).

I know how my dad would have done it, brace and bit. Those tools I
have not yet gotten.

Perhaps. ...or he would have taken it to work and the machine shop
would have put it on one of their Bridgeports. ;-)

He had a Bridgeport in the basement, and a large metal lathe.

But dad wouldn't have had to moose it onto the Bridgeports. The
machinists would have cut the holes for him. ;-) I don't think he
was technically their boss but he looked out for them (he was a prof
at the university).

On 08/17/2015 05:43 PM, krw wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 13:36:25 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

krw wrote:

I'm pretty bad at getting even close to vertical with a hand-held
drill.

Stand a square up close to where you are drilling, helps a lot when eye
balling vertical.

I would need two. I don't have much of a problem with one axis but
the second always suffers.

A 4x4 cut square on both ends. Stand on end and use one edge/corner to
align.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 8/17/2015 7:52 PM, krw wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:39:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/17/2015 11:56 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"

Yes, they're "5 Star". I bought them a years ago at the suggestion of
several here. Every time we went to Atlanta, I picked up a few at
Woodcraft. Now that we live in Atlanta (sorta), they no longer carry
them. :-(


A local cabinet hardware store discontinued them. I picked up a bunch
of singles and multiples of the frequently used sizes for about 20 cents
on the dollar.


May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.


But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
about 5/8.

Still expensive but not a bad price singly.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtool...drill_bits.htm

Oh, my. SWMBO isn't going to like that site! ;-)

Bookmarked. Thanks!

Keep them busy selling the product and they may just keep selling them.
I will say the price of the 1/2" bit was $20, less now. Imagine a
German product going down in price. ;~)

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:39:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/17/2015 11:56 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"

Yes, they're "5 Star". I bought them a years ago at the suggestion of
several here. Every time we went to Atlanta, I picked up a few at
Woodcraft. Now that we live in Atlanta (sorta), they no longer carry
them. :-(

May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.


But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
about 5/8.

Still expensive but not a bad price singly.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtool...drill_bits.htm

Oh, my. SWMBO isn't going to like that site! ;-)

Bookmarked. Thanks!



Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.


According to the Colt catalog http://colt-tools.com/en/catalogue/ the
"5-Star" (aka HSS-FCE) don't come larger than 1/2 inch. For 3/4 it
looks like you need to go to the "TwinLand" bit, which, surprisingly,
can be had on Amazon for under 10 bucks.

Note that in 2013 they were bought out by a French outfit and the last
catalog published seems to be 2013, so the company may be gone now or
the products may be sold under a different brand.

In article ,
says...

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:39:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/17/2015 11:56 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"

Yes, they're "5 Star". I bought them a years ago at the suggestion of
several here. Every time we went to Atlanta, I picked up a few at
Woodcraft. Now that we live in Atlanta (sorta), they no longer carry
them. :-(

May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.


But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
about 5/8.

Still expensive but not a bad price singly.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtool...drill_bits.htm

Oh, my. SWMBO isn't going to like that site! ;-)

Bookmarked. Thanks!



Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.


According to the Colt catalog http://colt-tools.com/en/catalogue/ the
"5-Star" (aka HSS-FCE) don't come larger than 1/2 inch. For 3/4 it
looks like you need to go to the "TwinLand" bit, which, surprisingly,
can be had on Amazon for under 10 bucks.

Whoops--clicked too soon--Amazon _used_ to have it for under 10 bucks--
that was a cached page I was looking at--now they don't seem to anymore.

Note that in 2013 they were bought out by a French outfit and the last
catalog published seems to be 2013, so the company may be gone now or
the products may be sold under a different brand.

On 8/18/2015 5:40 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 12:39:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/17/2015 11:56 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 21:58:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 8/16/2015 3:07 PM, krw wrote:

I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.



Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.

You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.

I have a bunch of Colts but I don't think any are that big. They're
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
else, either.

And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"

Yes, they're "5 Star". I bought them a years ago at the suggestion of
several here. Every time we went to Atlanta, I picked up a few at
Woodcraft. Now that we live in Atlanta (sorta), they no longer carry
them. :-(

May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.


But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
about 5/8.

Still expensive but not a bad price singly.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtool...drill_bits.htm

Oh, my. SWMBO isn't going to like that site! ;-)

Bookmarked. Thanks!



Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.

I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.


According to the Colt catalog http://colt-tools.com/en/catalogue/ the
"5-Star" (aka HSS-FCE) don't come larger than 1/2 inch. For 3/4 it
looks like you need to go to the "TwinLand" bit, which, surprisingly,
can be had on Amazon for under 10 bucks.

The 5 Star does not come larger in Imperial, but does in metric, 16mm.

Still, if you need a 3/4" hole this is not going to be helpful.

I have not tried the Twinland bits, with the 5 Star it is all about the
cutting point/tip. In my 1/4" and larger bits I can drill a hole
through 3/4" thick oak, with out a backer board, and the hole on the
exit side is as crisp and clean at the entry hole.
While these bits are suppose to last for a very long time I reserve
their use for times I want perfection and when I know that there is
nothing hidden in the wood.





Note that in 2013 they were bought out by a French outfit and the last
catalog published seems to be 2013, so the company may be gone now or
the products may be sold under a different brand.



There are several places in the U.S. that sell the bits, The best of
Things, being one of them, in sets and individually. Also Infinity, AKA
Jesada/CMT of America, although they appear to only sell the small set
for about $80.

Indeed fewer places sell the 5 Star. Get'em while you can.

Have the guide index off the last hole. Constant spacing.
Or have two and jump two starting at two starting points.



On 8/17/2015 11:41 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).

On Tue, 18 Aug 2015 22:40:11 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Have the guide index off the last hole. Constant spacing.
Or have two and jump two starting at two starting points.

Yeah, the plan was to have a template that I could insert pins in the
guide holes to index to existing holes. I'll try it on the door
before I munge up a more expensive top.



On 8/17/2015 11:41 AM, krw wrote:
On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:23:14 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 16:07:13 -0400, krw wrote:


I'm making a cutting and assembly bench, using a solid core door with
a sheet of 3/4" MDF as disposable surface. Any suggestions on how to
drill dog holes? The holes will have to be about 2-1/2" (1-3/4" door
+ 3/4" MDF)

The drill press isn't going to work (the door weighs about 80#,
alone). I thought about a forstner bit but perpendicular is a
problem. I also thought about a router and template but it sounds
like a lot of work.

Drill a guide block on the drill press.

That's an idea. I guess I could make a thick template (to get the
spacing right).