Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 723
Default Level twice, bolt once

Silly me, assuming that the shed I'm fixing had been built plumb. But I
did find out why the sill plate was so remarkably well rotted.

The shed uses the garage as one wall. The idiot who built it managed to
miss the stud by an inch or so when locating one wall. Since the garage
wall is finished and insulated, I really didn't feel like tearing into
it just now to put in another stud--for a "rig" the plan was to put a
2x8 against the garage wall, fasten it to the sheathing with a few
toggle bolts to get a seal, then strong-tie it to the existing stud and
every other piece of structure I could find that a strong-tie would
reach, with the plan being to add the inside stud later when am doing
some repairs inside the garage (that piece of drywall does have to come
out eventually, just not today).

While it's not all that aesthetically pleasing a solution, it would
still be a _lot_ better than what had been in place, that was simply
nailed to 3/8 inch sheathing, and not even flush against it for most of
its length.

Well, I put the 2x8 in place and levelled it, and with it lined up with
the edge of the last rafter, the bottom end is sticking out two inches
past the end of the slab.

Mea culpa--I should have checked _before_ I bolted down the sill plate
(and glued and caulked). The retaining rods are stainless and I managed
to get some concrete dust or something under the nut when I was
tightenign them--getting that thing off again to redrill and reposition
it is going to be bugger-all, especially since I'm not going to get
another chance to work on it until it's all had a week to cure.

I suppose I could just cut them off and get a long bit for the SDS drill
and set some new ones.

Anyway, now I know why the frigging wall was rotting to pieces in the
first place--non-pressure-treated sill plate sticking out two inches
from the slab and a half inch above the ground.

My temptation is to just say "screw it" and finish the wall out of
plumb--it will be sloping in, not out, so the tendency will be to keep
it drier instead of wetter.


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
installing a new toilet- question, almost done, took level andnoticed not level..??help KOS Home Repair 21 January 8th 19 07:14 AM
How do I level freestanding shelves on a floor that's not level, tokeep them from falling over? [email protected] Home Repair 16 April 30th 14 05:45 PM
need to convert from MIC level to LINE-INPUT level wylbur37 Electronics Repair 15 May 24th 07 04:45 AM
Heating lower level of bi-level house Sara Home Repair 5 March 4th 06 05:34 AM
Rotary laser level not even close to level Fred Home Repair 7 October 4th 05 12:06 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:51 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"