Hello, all

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-perme-
able or not?

I am sorry if this is the wrong group, but I
couldn't find a one more suitable to my question.

--
Anton Shepelev

It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover the object of your affection with a film finish?

Deb

On 3/29/2015 8:27 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover the object of your affection with a film finish?

Deb

Perhaps he is talking about cabinets.

On 3/29/2015 8:41 AM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
Hello, all

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-perme-
able or not?

I am sorry if this is the wrong group, but I
couldn't find a one more suitable to my question.


I don't know enough about log construction to recommend. I'd go to a
good paint store and ask about it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.

Or I'd call someone like these guys
http://www.logfinish.com/
Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably know what is good
inside.

Or check here
http://log-homes.thefuntimesguide.co..._log_walls.php

On 3/29/2015 9:27 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover the object of your affection with a film finish?

Deb


I'd consider doing those rooms. You want the kitchen easily cleanable
so you need a film barrier over the wood. A bit of color will also break
the monotony of even the nicest wood.

Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?

It depends on several things, but I do have one
over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
the object of your affection with a film finish?

I was inexact because English is my second language.
I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
previous house, and should like to prevent it this
time.

Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
wood will actually decay.

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

Ed Pawlowski to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?

I don't know enough about log construction to rec-
ommend. I'd go to a good paint store and ask about
it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.

I don't trust those guys even in large stores.

Or I'd call someone like these guys
http://www.logfinish.com/
Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably
know what is good inside.

They have indoor coatings too, so I shall ask their
advice. Thanks.

Or check here
http://log-homes.thefuntimesguide.co..._log_walls.php

Nothing serious there.

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

Anton Shepelev wrote:
Hello, all

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-perme-
able or not?

Are you wanting to paint the inside of the logs, non-log interior walls or
cabinets?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Dr. Deb wrote:
It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching
question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal,
both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
the object of your affection with a film finish?


Log homes have interior partitions that are standard stud and sheetrock
construction - that's probably what the OP is referring to.

--

-Mike-

Anton Shepelev wrote:

I was inexact because English is my second language.

Dont' worry about it Anton - even for those of us to whom English is our
first language, we can screw up a thought with the best of them.


I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
black in about 25-40 years.

So - I own a log home and have lived in it for 30-ish years. What we used,
back when the house was built, was basic polyurethane. We used satin for
most of the log walls but there are some that we used gloss on. It's my
personal preference that the satin was the better choice. Since UV is not
really much of a problem inside the house, the amount of yellowing that is
associated with poly is not all that great - a bit, but not huge. Darker
has not been any kind of a problem, beyond a modest amount of yellowing.
You are incorrect in your assumption though, that untreated, it will yellow
to becoming almost black. That's just not what will happen. On the
outside - yes that could happen as the logs are exposed to weather, but you
will not experience that inside. That said - you will want some kind of
clear coat finish to simply keep normal cleaning to an acceptable level.

I'm happy to continue this discussion in this forum, or to take it off-line
if you prefer. My email address is in my sig.


It happened with my
previous house, and should like to prevent it this
time.

If you experienced blackening of logs in your previous home, you had other -
major problems that were not related to applying a clear finish. Moisture
would be my first guess. If that's the case - a finish is not going to be a
miracle cure this time around. I suppose it could also be a reflection of
the type of logs that were used, and that's always a consideration, so there
is room for more discussion on that aspect of things as well.



Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
wood will actually decay.

Yes... but how much is "much vapor"? Again - been there done that, and our
experiences differ.

--

-Mike-

Ed Pawlowski wrote:


I don't know enough about log construction to recommend. I'd go to a
good paint store and ask about it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.

Or I'd call someone like these guys
http://www.logfinish.com/
Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably know what is good
inside.

Or check here
http://log-homes.thefuntimesguide.co..._log_walls.php

I own a log home - have for over 30 years. Not a bad guess Edwin, but
generally speaking - interior and exterior do not equate to the same
options.

--

-Mike-

Anton Shepelev wrote:
Ed Pawlowski to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?

I don't know enough about log construction to rec-
ommend. I'd go to a good paint store and ask about
it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.

I don't trust those guys even in large stores.

Or I'd call someone like these guys
http://www.logfinish.com/
Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably
know what is good inside.

They have indoor coatings too, so I shall ask their
advice. Thanks.


You are likely to find that their interior finishes are little different
from basic polyurethane. Again - there is nothing magic about interior
finish options. They don't really create a lot of exotic, high tech
finishes for the interior of a log home. Most of the stuff you see on the
web sites is Marketing glib.

--

-Mike-

On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?

It depends on several things, but I do have one
over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
the object of your affection with a film finish?

I was inexact because English is my second language.
I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
previous house, and should like to prevent it this
time.

Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
wood will actually decay.


Water based is less likely to change colors

Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?

It depends on several things, but I do have one
over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
the object of your affection with a film finish?

I was inexact because English is my second language.
I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
previous house, and should like to prevent it this
time.

Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
wood will actually decay.


Water based is less likely to change colors

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't that only apply to UV effect? So, on
vertical surfaces like walls, wouldn't that be less of a difference? I ask
this because on my walls I do not seen anywhere near the yellowing that I do
on horizontal surfaces that are subject to sunlight.

--

-Mike-

On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?


As a builder I can say unequivocally, whatever Mike Marlow says.

Actual experience has no equal ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

dadiOH to Anton Shepelev:

What product should you recommend for treating
the bathroom and kitchen in a log house? It
must help preserve wood in an environment where
large amounts of vapour a regularly released and
water is occasionally splashed onto the walls.

Are you wanting to paint the inside of the logs,
non-log interior walls or cabinets?

All the walls in my house are log-walls. I want to
choose a treatment/finish for the interrior surfaces
of the logs, i.e. those that face inwards. I am not
talking about furniture (cabinets) but about bare
log walls.

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

Mike Marlow:

Log homes have interior partitions that are stan-
dard stud and sheetrock construction -- that's
probably what the OP is referring to.

No, my partitions are made of the same logs as the
outer walls. I am asking about the coating of the
walls of all rooms, whether it be internal walls or
the inner sides of external walls.

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

On 3/29/2015 2:07 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:

What kind of paint should you recommend for the
kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
permeable or not?

It depends on several things, but I do have one
over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
the object of your affection with a film finish?

I was inexact because English is my second language.
I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
previous house, and should like to prevent it this
time.

Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
wood will actually decay.


Water based is less likely to change colors

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't that only apply to UV effect? So, on
vertical surfaces like walls, wouldn't that be less of a difference? I ask
this because on my walls I do not seen anywhere near the yellowing that I do
on horizontal surfaces that are subject to sunlight.



What I probably meant to say was that water based tends to go on like
water and add no warmth to the natural color of the wood. Oil based
stains tent to warm the color immediately.

Anton Shepelev wrote:
Mike Marlow:

Log homes have interior partitions that are stan-
dard stud and sheetrock construction -- that's
probably what the OP is referring to.

No, my partitions are made of the same logs as the
outer walls. I am asking about the coating of the
walls of all rooms, whether it be internal walls or
the inner sides of external walls.

Ok - sorry for the assupmtion on my part. I did respond to other posts in
this thread, so I won't repeat myself, but feel free to throw out any
additional questions.

--

-Mike-

Anton Shepelev wrote:
dadiOH to Anton Shepelev:

What product should you recommend for treating
the bathroom and kitchen in a log house? It
must help preserve wood in an environment where
large amounts of vapour a regularly released and
water is occasionally splashed onto the walls.

Are you wanting to paint the inside of the logs,
non-log interior walls or cabinets?

All the walls in my house are log-walls. I want to
choose a treatment/finish for the interrior surfaces
of the logs, i.e. those that face inwards. I am not
talking about furniture (cabinets) but about bare
log walls.

OK. Elsewhere, you said you wanted a clear finish. As a practical matter,
you have four choices...
1. poly
2. alkyd
3. nitrocellulose
4. acylic

If you want hardness and durability, oil based poly varnish would be my #1
choice. Water base poly would also be acceptable and could be easier to
apply. Either would be more expensive than the other choices. If you
wanted more than one coat, you would need to apply them at approximately
four hour intervals.

I wouldn't consider pure alkyd varnish, hard to find and the poly would
serve better.

I've never heard of nitrocellulose lacquer being used for something like
this but I suppose it could be. I wouldn't.

There is an acrylic product called Sealkrete Original. It is used primarily
for vertical, cementatious surfaces but can be used on pretty much anything.
I have no experience with it on large wood surfaces but it might work. It
is relatively inexpensive, water base and can be sprayed with a garden type
sprayer. A recommended use is as a paint additive. It does not form a film
unless multiple coats are applied; a film from it is not hard and brittle
but rubbery/stretchy like most acrylic films.
http://www.sealkrete.com/find-a-prod.../original.aspx

FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing on the interior log walls.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH:

OK. Elsewhere, you said you wanted a clear fin-
ish. As a practical matter, you have four choic-
es...

1. poly
2. alkyd
3. nitrocellulose
4. acylic

Thanks. I am considering coatings based on natural
oils and waxes, such as the OSMO "waxes":

http://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.c...=82&page=2 57

FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing on
the interior log walls.

Interesring. How old is it and in what condition
are the logs on the inside?

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

Anton Shepelev wrote:


FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing on
the interior log walls.

Interesring. How old is it and in what condition
are the logs on the inside?

Built in 1996, interior wood is fine, pristine essentially.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH:
Anton Shepelev:
dadiOH:

FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing
on the interior log walls.

Interesring. How old is it and in what condi-
tion are the logs on the inside?

Built in 1996, interior wood is fine, pristine es-
sentially.

I shouldn't think it old enough to have darkened
completely, but I should certainly expect some no-
ticeable darkening after 20 years... Might it de-
pend on the species of wood?

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

Mike Marlow:

I'm happy to continue this discussion in this fo-
rum, or to take it off-line if you prefer. My
email address is in my sig.

I hope my e-mails have made it to your mail box
haven't wound-up in the SPAM compartment.

--
() ascii ribbon campaign - against html e-mail
/\ http://preview.tinyurl.com/qcy6mjc [archived]

"Anton Shepelev" wrote in message
news:20150410191958.3449b48cf74f07632d696c62@g{oog le}mail.com...
dadiOH:
Anton Shepelev:
dadiOH:

FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing
on the interior log walls.

Interesring. How old is it and in what condi-
tion are the logs on the inside?

Built in 1996, interior wood is fine, pristine es-
sentially.

I shouldn't think it old enough to have darkened
completely, but I should certainly expect some no-
ticeable darkening after 20 years... Might it de-
pend on the species of wood?

To some degree, sure. It is Western red cedar.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net