On 3/15/2015 8:18 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 03/14/2015 11:18 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I am building a cabinet with sliding doors (due to space constraints).
It is 36" high, 74" long and made from cherry plywood. I got 1/4" cherry
for the sliding doors that are to run in a sliding door track I
purchased from Rockler.

The plywood I made the doors from was the wrong choice. It started
warping and it very difficult to fit in the sliding door track. The rest
of the project is complete but I need to find a better choice for the
sliding doors (something that is stable and straight). I finished the
doors the same as the cabinet(50/50 blend of Watco natural oil and poly
followed by two coats of poly after the watco blend had fully dried) but
clearly I need to changes horses. Do you have any suggestions for me?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


How about this stuff:

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/melamine/dakota-1-4-x-49-x-97-melamine-panel/p-1954471-c-13335.htm



Thanks. Like hardboard, I would have to paint it. I have a couple of
other approaches to consider first

On 3/15/2015 7:43 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03/15/2015 4:51 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03/15/2015 4:47 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 3/15/2015 4:18 PM, dpb wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote in
:

My depth space is very limited. I don't have room for two 3/4" doors


What if the spline(?) for the track is offset for each door? You might
have to trim any interior shelves by a little.

How much _can_ you sacrifice in shelf depth? It wouldn't take but a
1/2" thick frame or maybe even 3/8" with a rabbet to add sufficient
stiffness to the panels. Doesn't have to be a centered groove, a rear
flush rabbet'll do the same trick...

The panels/doors have to pass by each other

So, they still can/could, just need the width of the thickness of the
panels which could be as little as 3/4" total plus a smidge for
clearance...

And, in fact, they can still go in the 1/4" grooves simply rabbet the
bottom/top edges to fit and turn the to panel overhangs to front/rear,
respectively on each.

--


I went to a glass store today to see if they can track down smoked
acrylic glass.

Meanwhile I am thinking more about your idea. As I understand it, I
should make a frame and panel door with the 1/4" cherry as the panel.
The panel track from Rockler is 7/8" wide. This leaves just under 1/4"
for the two panels to pass each other. If I made 1/2" frames with a
rabbet on each frame edge to create a spline to slide in the track. I
would end up with something just a little wider than I have now. I worry
that the 1/2" frame with the unruly 30"x 34" plywood in it would rack a
lot but I guess it is worth making a frame to see what happens.

On 03/16/2015 8:32 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 3/15/2015 7:43 PM, dpb wrote:
....

So, they still can/could, just need the width of the thickness of the
panels which could be as little as 3/4" total plus a smidge for
clearance...

And, in fact, they can still go in the 1/4" grooves simply rabbet the
bottom/top edges to fit and turn the to panel overhangs to front/rear,
respectively on each.

....

Meanwhile I am thinking more about your idea. As I understand it, I
should make a frame and panel door with the 1/4" cherry as the panel.
The panel track from Rockler is 7/8" wide. This leaves just under 1/4"
for the two panels to pass each other. If I made 1/2" frames with a
rabbet on each frame edge to create a spline to slide in the track. I
would end up with something just a little wider than I have now. I worry
that the 1/2" frame with the unruly 30"x 34" plywood in it would rack a
lot but I guess it is worth making a frame to see what happens.

That's the idea, yes. What's the ply core, do you know? What's the RH
in the workroom area and where it's been stored and how was it stored?
It's possible you might be able to reduce EMC and get it to return to
more nearly the neutral stress position at time of manufacture which
will tend to cause it to go back to nearer flat. If you can do that,
and _THEN_ finish it to reduce further moisture migration you may have a
shot.

I sorta' fanned on the overall size of the panels initially; that's
pretty large. You possible could make the frame and inset panels in
somewhat like window lights instead of just one single panel...could end
up as a "design feature", perhaps...

--

On 03/17/2015 1:17 PM, dpb wrote:
....

I sorta' fanned on the overall size of the panels initially; that's
pretty large. You possible could make the frame and inset panels in
somewhat like window lights instead of just one single panel...could end
up as a "design feature", perhaps...

Just in round numbers a 4-lite panel would have roughly 12x14" panels
whereas 6-lite would work out a about 8x14" if two high. No idea what
the rest looks like; could envision it "lookin' good!!!", depending...

--

On Saturday, March 14, 2015 at 12:46:47 PM UTC-7, dadiOH wrote:

For a non-warping panel for your current needs, I would suggest Masonite
(hardboard). It is butt-ugly but can be painted nicely. Or covered with
wallpaper.

I tried the 'cover with wallpaper' trick, and kinda got it to work, BUT
(1) the stuff I got wasn't real wallpaper, it turns out to be some kind
of pre-pasted vinyl
(2) the hardboard had the screen-surface problem (but you can apply
shellac primer, then apply a hot iron to flatten it- don't use a fancy Teflon
surface iron for this).
(3) I ended up painting the hardboard and the (washed) vinyl stuff with
white glue, letting it dry, then applying the hot iron. Not too hot,
so the vinyl doesn't flow; not to cool, so the glue doesn't soften and fuse.

So, for the futu where oh where can I find REAL PAPER wallpaper?

"whit3rd" wrote:

So, for the futu where oh where can I find REAL PAPER wallpaper?
----------------------------------------------------
Sanatis has been around forever.

http://tinyurl.com/pk4wa4n

Lew

On 03/17/2015 4:03 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03/17/2015 1:17 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I sorta' fanned on the overall size of the panels initially; that's
pretty large. You possible could make the frame and inset panels in
somewhat like window lights instead of just one single panel...could end
up as a "design feature", perhaps...

Just in round numbers a 4-lite panel would have roughly 12x14" panels
whereas 6-lite would work out a about 8x14" if two high. No idea what
the rest looks like; could envision it "lookin' good!!!", depending...
....

BTW, the key is that if you make more, smaller panels, you'll find the
needed stiffness won't be as much to retain them flat as the single
larger since there's less bend to remove from each. I'd still work on
reducing the initial stress levels first, though...

--

On 3/17/2015 2:17 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03/16/2015 8:32 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
On 3/15/2015 7:43 PM, dpb wrote:
...

So, they still can/could, just need the width of the thickness of the
panels which could be as little as 3/4" total plus a smidge for
clearance...

And, in fact, they can still go in the 1/4" grooves simply rabbet the
bottom/top edges to fit and turn the to panel overhangs to front/rear,
respectively on each.

...

Meanwhile I am thinking more about your idea. As I understand it, I
should make a frame and panel door with the 1/4" cherry as the panel.
The panel track from Rockler is 7/8" wide. This leaves just under 1/4"
for the two panels to pass each other. If I made 1/2" frames with a
rabbet on each frame edge to create a spline to slide in the track. I
would end up with something just a little wider than I have now. I worry
that the 1/2" frame with the unruly 30"x 34" plywood in it would rack a
lot but I guess it is worth making a frame to see what happens.

That's the idea, yes. What's the ply core, do you know? What's the RH
in the workroom area and where it's been stored and how was it stored?
It's possible you might be able to reduce EMC and get it to return to
more nearly the neutral stress position at time of manufacture which
will tend to cause it to go back to nearer flat. If you can do that,
and _THEN_ finish it to reduce further moisture migration you may have a
shot.

I sorta' fanned on the overall size of the panels initially; that's
pretty large. You possible could make the frame and inset panels in
somewhat like window lights instead of just one single panel...could end
up as a "design feature", perhaps...

--
I am going to try to make 2" wide frames out of some scrap pine to see
if they will hold the panels flat. I think I will join them with half
lap joints for now. If that works, I might try miters with splines. TBD

I don't know the ply core. I don't have an instrument for RH but we have
oil heat and it has been a VERY cold winteand spring so far (27 for a
high today) so we had more (dry) heat than usual. The boards were
stored in a vertical position, longest edge down. I will just do my
experiment and see what happens.

I am still pursing a source for Lexan

Dick Snyder wrote:

I am still pursing a source for Lexan
------------------------------------------------------
Do a google (I use DuckDuckGo.com) of the following:

acrylic sheet distributors boston area

BTW, Lexan more expensive than acrylic.

Lew3

On 03/18/2015 2:46 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
....

I am going to try to make 2" wide frames out of some scrap pine to see
if they will hold the panels flat. I think I will join them with half
lap joints for now. If that works, I might try miters with splines. TBD

And, if that is reasonably successful, the cherry or other hardwood will
be stiffer. As noted, also, if you go to 2 (or 4 or 6) instead of just
1 panel you add stiffness and reduce the amount of force needed at the
same time (at the cost of more fabrication effort, of course, ain't no
free lunch )

I don't know the ply core. I don't have an instrument for RH but we have
oil heat and it has been a VERY cold winteand spring so far (27 for a
high today) so we had more (dry) heat than usual. The boards were stored
in a vertical position, longest edge down. I will just do my experiment
and see what happens.

Try laying flat covered on clean, dry non-staining material and place a
plastic over it with a water dish under to let it pick up some. Sticker
it so it's got circulation space both sides and add some weight to the
top...see if it will acclimatize back to a more nearly uniform flatter
position then after that when it is brought back to a dry environment.

Have smaller panels just oversize what you need makes this easier to
handle from space considerations obviously...

On edge is really not a good way to store ply altho often given room
limitations it's the only practical solution.

--

On 3/14/2015 2:18 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I am building a cabinet with sliding doors (due to space constraints).
It is 36" high, 74" long and made from cherry plywood. I got 1/4" cherry
for the sliding doors that are to run in a sliding door track I
purchased from Rockler.

The plywood I made the doors from was the wrong choice. It started
warping and it very difficult to fit in the sliding door track. The rest
of the project is complete but I need to find a better choice for the
sliding doors (something that is stable and straight). I finished the
doors the same as the cabinet(50/50 blend of Watco natural oil and poly
followed by two coats of poly after the watco blend had fully dried) but
clearly I need to changes horses. Do you have any suggestions for me?

TIA.

Dick Snyder
After many good ideas from you all on my problems I thought I would let
you know that the idea which worked best for me was 1/4" acrylic
panels. They are very stable, slide easily, and while not what I had
planned on (I had stained cherry plywood), they look quite nice in their
own right.

Thanks again to all who assisted me in thinking through this problem
and, as usual when I ask for help, I learned a *LOT*.

Dick Snyder

On 4/2/2015 9:07 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Dick Snyder
After many good ideas from you all on my problems I thought I would let
you know that the idea which worked best for me was 1/4" acrylic
panels. They are very stable, slide easily, and while not what I had
planned on (I had stained cherry plywood), they look quite nice in their
own right.

Thanks again to all who assisted me in thinking through this problem
and, as usual when I ask for help, I learned a *LOT*.

Photos, or it didn't happen ...

And congratulations on finding a solution you're happy with.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 4/2/2015 11:52 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/2/2015 9:07 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Dick Snyder
After many good ideas from you all on my problems I thought I would let
you know that the idea which worked best for me was 1/4" acrylic
panels. They are very stable, slide easily, and while not what I had
planned on (I had stained cherry plywood), they look quite nice in their
own right.

Thanks again to all who assisted me in thinking through this problem
and, as usual when I ask for help, I learned a *LOT*.

Photos, or it didn't happen ...

Exactly!

On 4/2/2015 12:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/2/2015 9:07 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Dick Snyder
After many good ideas from you all on my problems I thought I would let
you know that the idea which worked best for me was 1/4" acrylic
panels. They are very stable, slide easily, and while not what I had
planned on (I had stained cherry plywood), they look quite nice in their
own right.

Thanks again to all who assisted me in thinking through this problem
and, as usual when I ask for help, I learned a *LOT*.

Photos, or it didn't happen ...

And congratulations on finding a solution you're happy with.

Where is a good place to put a photo?

Dick Snyder wrote:

Where is a good place to put a photo?
-------------------------------------------
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking works for me.

Lew

On 4/2/2015 10:19 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote:

Where is a good place to put a photo?
-------------------------------------------
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking works for me.

Lew


I just posted a picture on apbw. The cabinet is sitting on my assembly
table awaiting delivery to my daughter and her husband tomorrow.

Again, thanks to all who were so helpful to me.

Dick