On Wednesday, February 4, 2015 at 11:42:21 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/4/2015 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 19:20:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/4/2015 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:

of that.

I've been thinking of trying TopKote (or whatever it's called these
days) and even bought a can but it doesn't say anything about
preventing rust. Did they change the formula? I really don't like
Boeshield but I like rust a lot less.


Way back when, when Topcote was originally made by Empire, I bought it
to only slick up my TS Top, that is what it was made for. It was great
for that but after about 6 months I noticed that I was no longer having
an issue with rust.
You need to put on a lot the first time, a few coats and the more you
use it the better it protects. It is not guaranteed to prevent rust but
as a bonus it works better for me than any thing else I have tried.




This place is the leas expensive that I have found for TopCote/GlideCote.

http://www.cabinethardware.com/Searc...Search=topcote

Wow! Free shipping, too. I've seen prices like that but they don't
tell you that they charge $15-$20 shipping and handling.



Fortunately they are a local place for me that I have been doing
business with for 20+ years. I would suspect their web site not
determining a correct shipping price.... Seems if there were free
shipping there would not be an input location for destination.
This store is top notch with very helpful people and they typically beat
the pants off of the competition prices.

Either way the average price, elsewhere, for a can is around $18-19.

I can second Leon's opinion of cabinethardware.com's customer service.

Based on Leon's recommendation, I purchased some drawer slides from them. The website listed the slides as Full Extension, Soft Close. I ordered four 22" slides and one 12" slide. I found that the 12" slide was not full extension. When I called, the CSR did some research and found that the 12" in that line was indeed *not* Full Extension, nor were 14" of the same model. However, the same manufacturer had another (more expensive) line of slides and the 14" in that line was Full Extension. He offered to send me a 14" Full Extension slide, no charge of course, which I accepted.

I checked the website a few hours later and it had already been updated to show that the particular 12" and 14" slides in the line that I originally bought were 3/4 Extension.

It will take a few adjustments to fit the 14" slide in where I was going to put the 12", but it will fit. Overall, I was extremely satisfied with my dealings with cabinethardware.com's customer service department.

On 2/5/2015 7:13 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, February 4, 2015 at 11:42:21 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/4/2015 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 19:20:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/4/2015 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:

of that.

I've been thinking of trying TopKote (or whatever it's called these
days) and even bought a can but it doesn't say anything about
preventing rust. Did they change the formula? I really don't like
Boeshield but I like rust a lot less.


Way back when, when Topcote was originally made by Empire, I bought it
to only slick up my TS Top, that is what it was made for. It was great
for that but after about 6 months I noticed that I was no longer having
an issue with rust.
You need to put on a lot the first time, a few coats and the more you
use it the better it protects. It is not guaranteed to prevent rust but
as a bonus it works better for me than any thing else I have tried.




This place is the leas expensive that I have found for TopCote/GlideCote.

http://www.cabinethardware.com/Searc...Search=topcote

Wow! Free shipping, too. I've seen prices like that but they don't
tell you that they charge $15-$20 shipping and handling.



Fortunately they are a local place for me that I have been doing
business with for 20+ years. I would suspect their web site not
determining a correct shipping price.... Seems if there were free
shipping there would not be an input location for destination.
This store is top notch with very helpful people and they typically beat
the pants off of the competition prices.

Either way the average price, elsewhere, for a can is around $18-19.

I can second Leon's opinion of cabinethardware.com's customer service.

Based on Leon's recommendation, I purchased some drawer slides from them. The website listed the slides as Full Extension, Soft Close. I ordered four 22" slides and one 12" slide. I found that the 12" slide was not full extension. When I called, the CSR did some research and found that the 12" in that line was indeed *not* Full Extension, nor were 14" of the same model. However, the same manufacturer had another (more expensive) line of slides and the 14" in that line was Full Extension. He offered to send me a 14" Full Extension slide, no charge of course, which I accepted.

I checked the website a few hours later and it had already been updated to show that the particular 12" and 14" slides in the line that I originally bought were 3/4 Extension.

It will take a few adjustments to fit the 14" slide in where I was going to put the 12", but it will fit. Overall, I was extremely satisfied with my dealings with cabinethardware.com's customer service department.

Most all of the people that you deal directly with have been there for
years and it is an old family owned business. I really like dealing
with Barbara.

Leon wrote:


Can you expand on that a bit, the finish of the material? I have no
sheen so to speak. Buy yes rust only matters if you let it get out
of hand.

Sure - most surfaces like a table saw top have some degree of a polished
surface. It may be flat or it may have milling but it's often (or maybe
usually...) polished to some degree. Softer materials can "scratch" that
polished finish - scratch the burnished surface, I guess. Polish to a
mirror finish and watch how something as soft as a rag can put those tiny
scratches in that mirror finish.

--

-Mike-

On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 20:11:40 -0600
-MIKE- wrote:

Which angles? Miter or bevel? I've cut both using mine and they are
extremely accurate and repeatable.

Either, don't the cuts fill up with dust and don't they weaken the sled?

On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 20:11:40 -0600
-MIKE- wrote:

I have a sacrificial bottom on mine that repositions to close the gap
created by the saw kerf of different blades. This creates a
zero-clearance insert affect that eliminates tear-out yielding a very
clean cut.

This answers my other post. I might try one when I find time

On 2/5/2015 9:59 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Can you expand on that a bit, the finish of the material? I have no
sheen so to speak. Buy yes rust only matters if you let it get out
of hand.

Sure - most surfaces like a table saw top have some degree of a polished
surface. It may be flat or it may have milling but it's often (or maybe
usually...) polished to some degree. Softer materials can "scratch" that
polished finish - scratch the burnished surface, I guess. Polish to a
mirror finish and watch how something as soft as a rag can put those tiny
scratches in that mirror finish.



Until I got to considering and buying a better TS than my old iron top
Craftsman I was not aware that manufacturers provided slick polished top
surfaces. I recall looking a the old PM64~66 table saws and still
recall the almost mirror finish on the tops. I finally bought a Jet
cabinet saw and it had a polished top but not to the degree of the
Powermatics. Boy was I disappointed with the "effects" of having a
ridgless and polished top. While smooth would seem to be a show of
higher quality machining, it does not translate well as far as providing
a surface with less friction. With TopCote on my old Craftsman you
could toss a small piece of oak to the TS top from 2 feet away and the
piece would slide off the back side of the table. With these polished
top saws I have not seen anything come close to the slipperiness as the
old Craftsman top. I think a polished top is more of a sales gimmick.

If you look at the better European machines most do not have a polished top.


Click on the close up of the blade and notice the table surface behind
the blade.

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=35


Click the close up of the jointer bed surface

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=35


Click on the close up of the second and third pictures

http://www.lagunatools.com/combo/combo-nx31#

On 2/5/2015 11:03 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 20:11:40 -0600
-MIKE- wrote:

Which angles? Miter or bevel? I've cut both using mine and they are
extremely accurate and repeatable.

Either, don't the cuts fill up with dust and don't they weaken the sled?


Square or angle cuts are still using the same path, you simply place the
work in the sled at an angle. Some sleds have fences that work similar
to one found on a miter gauge. These sleds typically do not work on
both sides of the blade.

This is an excellent sled. I have had both the left and right side
sleds for 15 years.

http://in-lineindustries.com/product...riginal-dubby/

On 2/5/15 11:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/5/2015 9:59 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Can you expand on that a bit, the finish of the material? I have
no sheen so to speak. Buy yes rust only matters if you let it
get out of hand.

Sure - most surfaces like a table saw top have some degree of a
polished surface. It may be flat or it may have milling but it's
often (or maybe usually...) polished to some degree. Softer
materials can "scratch" that polished finish - scratch the
burnished surface, I guess. Polish to a mirror finish and watch
how something as soft as a rag can put those tiny scratches in that
mirror finish.



Until I got to considering and buying a better TS than my old iron
top Craftsman I was not aware that manufacturers provided slick
polished top surfaces. I recall looking a the old PM64~66 table saws
and still recall the almost mirror finish on the tops. I finally
bought a Jet cabinet saw and it had a polished top but not to the
degree of the Powermatics. Boy was I disappointed with the "effects"
of having a ridgless and polished top. While smooth would seem to be
a show of higher quality machining, it does not translate well as far
as providing a surface with less friction. With TopCote on my old
Craftsman you could toss a small piece of oak to the TS top from 2
feet away and the piece would slide off the back side of the table.
With these polished top saws I have not seen anything come close to
the slipperiness as the old Craftsman top. I think a polished top is
more of a sales gimmick.

If you look at the better European machines most do not have a
polished top.


I don't know the science behind it but it's like when you go to pick up
one plate from a pile of stacked plates and even though you only grab
one plate, the one beneath it comes up with it. There's some sort of
suction that happens when two very smooth and very flat surfaces are
close together.

When I have a section of smooth plywood sitting on my melamine out-feed
table, it's difficult to lift it straight up and off until that suction
"breaks."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/5/15 11:03 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 20:11:40 -0600 -MIKE-
wrote:

Which angles? Miter or bevel? I've cut both using mine and they
are extremely accurate and repeatable.

Either, don't the cuts fill up with dust and don't they weaken the
sled?


(I saw your reply to the other post.)
Also keep in mind that there is a front and back solid piece of wood
bridging the two sides of the sled. The saw blade doesn't cut through
these solid pieces, no matter the angle or height of the blade.
Something to keep in mind when making yours-- design and build it so
those pieces are quite a bit higher than the blade at it's highest
setting.

That's for a double sides sled. There are single sides designs out
there, which have much shorter fences because they aren't bridging the
saw blade.

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thursday, February 5, 2015 at 12:22:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:



....Major Snippage Occurred...

With TopCote on my old Craftsman you
could toss a small piece of oak to the TS top from 2 feet away and the
piece would slide off the back side of the table. With these polished
top saws I have not seen anything come close to the slipperiness as the
old Craftsman top.


Alleluia! Now I can finally stop trying to shine up my old Craftsman TS top. It's dull, grey, milled surface is working just fine. I just always thought it was supposed to *look* better. Thanks!

Leon wrote:

Until I got to considering and buying a better TS than my old iron top
Craftsman I was not aware that manufacturers provided slick polished
top surfaces. I recall looking a the old PM64~66 table saws and still
recall the almost mirror finish on the tops. I finally bought a Jet
cabinet saw and it had a polished top but not to the degree of the
Powermatics. Boy was I disappointed with the "effects" of having a
ridgless and polished top. While smooth would seem to be a show of
higher quality machining, it does not translate well as far as
providing a surface with less friction. With TopCote on my old Craftsman
you
could toss a small piece of oak to the TS top from 2 feet away and the
piece would slide off the back side of the table. With these polished
top saws I have not seen anything come close to the slipperiness as
the old Craftsman top. I think a polished top is more of a sales gimmick.


You're right - dead flat and polished does not create a more slipery
surface. A milled surface with grooves is much better - as long as it's
milled flat at the high point of those grooves, or ridges.

--

-Mike-

On 2/5/2015 10:45 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

When I have a section of smooth plywood sitting on my melamine out-feed
table, it's difficult to lift it straight up and off until that suction
"breaks."


Well, damn! That sucks.

On 2/5/2015 11:45 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/5/15 11:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/5/2015 9:59 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Can you expand on that a bit, the finish of the material? I have
no sheen so to speak. Buy yes rust only matters if you let it
get out of hand.

Sure - most surfaces like a table saw top have some degree of a
polished surface. It may be flat or it may have milling but it's
often (or maybe usually...) polished to some degree. Softer
materials can "scratch" that polished finish - scratch the
burnished surface, I guess. Polish to a mirror finish and watch
how something as soft as a rag can put those tiny scratches in that
mirror finish.



Until I got to considering and buying a better TS than my old iron
top Craftsman I was not aware that manufacturers provided slick
polished top surfaces. I recall looking a the old PM64~66 table saws
and still recall the almost mirror finish on the tops. I finally
bought a Jet cabinet saw and it had a polished top but not to the
degree of the Powermatics. Boy was I disappointed with the "effects"
of having a ridgless and polished top. While smooth would seem to be
a show of higher quality machining, it does not translate well as far
as providing a surface with less friction. With TopCote on my old
Craftsman you could toss a small piece of oak to the TS top from 2
feet away and the piece would slide off the back side of the table.
With these polished top saws I have not seen anything come close to
the slipperiness as the old Craftsman top. I think a polished top is
more of a sales gimmick.

If you look at the better European machines most do not have a
polished top.


I don't know the science behind it but it's like when you go to pick up
one plate from a pile of stacked plates and even though you only grab
one plate, the one beneath it comes up with it. There's some sort of
suction that happens when two very smooth and very flat surfaces are
close together.

When I have a section of smooth plywood sitting on my melamine out-feed
table, it's difficult to lift it straight up and off until that suction
"breaks."


Yeah, there are thousands of tiny high points that help prevent a vacuum
and less contact surface, so less friction.

On 2/5/2015 11:53 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 5, 2015 at 12:22:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:



...Major Snippage Occurred...

With TopCote on my old Craftsman you
could toss a small piece of oak to the TS top from 2 feet away and the
piece would slide off the back side of the table. With these polished
top saws I have not seen anything come close to the slipperiness as the
old Craftsman top.


Alleluia! Now I can finally stop trying to shine up my old Craftsman TS top. It's dull, grey, milled surface is working just fine. I just always thought it was supposed to *look* better. Thanks!

No kidding, if your Craftsman is an iron top one, those ugly mill marks
are a blessing in disguise. I wish my SawStop and old Jet has those
same grind marks..

On Thu, 05 Feb 2015 11:50:06 -0600
-MIKE- wrote:

(I saw your reply to the other post.)
Also keep in mind that there is a front and back solid piece of wood
bridging the two sides of the sled. The saw blade doesn't cut through
these solid pieces, no matter the angle or height of the blade.
Something to keep in mind when making yours-- design and build it so
those pieces are quite a bit higher than the blade at it's highest
setting.

I did notice that because I made a fence on my miter that was not
but sometimes i like learning the hard way but not always

Leon wrote:

No kidding, if your Craftsman is an iron top one, those ugly mill
marks are a blessing in disguise. I wish my SawStop and old Jet has
those same grind marks..
----------------------------------------------------------------
Simple to do IF you have a Blanchard grinder which I'm not sure if
it's even made anymore.

Haven't seen one in at least 20 years.

Lew

On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 22:41:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/4/2015 9:03 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 19:20:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/4/2015 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:

of that.

I've been thinking of trying TopKote (or whatever it's called these
days) and even bought a can but it doesn't say anything about
preventing rust. Did they change the formula? I really don't like
Boeshield but I like rust a lot less.


Way back when, when Topcote was originally made by Empire, I bought it
to only slick up my TS Top, that is what it was made for. It was great
for that but after about 6 months I noticed that I was no longer having
an issue with rust.
You need to put on a lot the first time, a few coats and the more you
use it the better it protects. It is not guaranteed to prevent rust but
as a bonus it works better for me than any thing else I have tried.




This place is the leas expensive that I have found for TopCote/GlideCote.

http://www.cabinethardware.com/Searc...Search=topcote

Wow! Free shipping, too. I've seen prices like that but they don't
tell you that they charge $15-$20 shipping and handling.



Fortunately they are a local place for me that I have been doing
business with for 20+ years. I would suspect their web site not
determining a correct shipping price.... Seems if there were free
shipping there would not be an input location for destination.
This store is top notch with very helpful people and they typically beat
the pants off of the competition prices.

Perhaps, but the location is also used to calculate tax. I went
through the order up to where I had to pull the trigger, just to see
what their shipping charges were. Of course there could be a mistake
but it showed no shipping charges.

Either way the average price, elsewhere, for a can is around $18-19.

Sure, but shipping can *easily* eat that up. Amazon has some great
prices, too, but the shipping charges can absolutely kill ya'. ;-)

On 2/2/15, 2:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 02/02/2015 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

I vote against Al because it tends to gall/stick worse than steel.

Other than that I have no real strong opinion although I am partial hard
maple as the material of choice simply 'cuz it's easiest to sneak up on
the prefect fit...even the purchased steel runners are typically a
little sloppy...

--


'sneak up' is the key here.

I've read (and it's true for my tablesaw) that Delta slots are a tad
over 3/4". This makes using a piece of 3/4" Aluminum bar not so good
unless I use both miter slots and shift the bars together (or apart) to
rub on a single edge. Every aftermarket miter slot dodad I have gives me
grief. The bulldog featherboard works great, but I have to tighten the
snot out of it to get the expanding wedge to grip the miter slot tightly.

Using wood lets you get a perfect fit.

-BR


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 07:55:27 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/2/15, 2:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 02/02/2015 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

I vote against Al because it tends to gall/stick worse than steel.

Other than that I have no real strong opinion although I am partial hard
maple as the material of choice simply 'cuz it's easiest to sneak up on
the prefect fit...even the purchased steel runners are typically a
little sloppy...

--


'sneak up' is the key here.

I've read (and it's true for my tablesaw) that Delta slots are a tad
over 3/4". This makes using a piece of 3/4" Aluminum bar not so good
unless I use both miter slots and shift the bars together (or apart) to
rub on a single edge. Every aftermarket miter slot dodad I have gives me
grief. The bulldog featherboard works great, but I have to tighten the
snot out of it to get the expanding wedge to grip the miter slot tightly.

Using wood lets you get a perfect fit.

Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars

On 2/7/15 11:24 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 07:55:27 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/2/15, 2:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 02/02/2015 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

I vote against Al because it tends to gall/stick worse than steel.

Other than that I have no real strong opinion although I am partial hard
maple as the material of choice simply 'cuz it's easiest to sneak up on
the prefect fit...even the purchased steel runners are typically a
little sloppy...

--


'sneak up' is the key here.

I've read (and it's true for my tablesaw) that Delta slots are a tad
over 3/4". This makes using a piece of 3/4" Aluminum bar not so good
unless I use both miter slots and shift the bars together (or apart) to
rub on a single edge. Every aftermarket miter slot dodad I have gives me
grief. The bulldog featherboard works great, but I have to tighten the
snot out of it to get the expanding wedge to grip the miter slot tightly.

Using wood lets you get a perfect fit.

Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars


Those work very well for most applications.
But damn if they don't scratch the hell out of everything! :-p

Haha! Seriously though, that's a great product.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 12:34:39 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/7/15 11:24 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2015 07:55:27 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/2/15, 2:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 02/02/2015 2:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

I vote against Al because it tends to gall/stick worse than steel.

Other than that I have no real strong opinion although I am partial hard
maple as the material of choice simply 'cuz it's easiest to sneak up on
the prefect fit...even the purchased steel runners are typically a
little sloppy...

--


'sneak up' is the key here.

I've read (and it's true for my tablesaw) that Delta slots are a tad
over 3/4". This makes using a piece of 3/4" Aluminum bar not so good
unless I use both miter slots and shift the bars together (or apart) to
rub on a single edge. Every aftermarket miter slot dodad I have gives me
grief. The bulldog featherboard works great, but I have to tighten the
snot out of it to get the expanding wedge to grip the miter slot tightly.

Using wood lets you get a perfect fit.

Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars


Those work very well for most applications.
But damn if they don't scratch the hell out of everything! :-p

;-)

Well, I don't slide it across the top. They're supposed to be in the
miter slot.

Haha! Seriously though, that's a great product.

I haven't actually used them, other than on my 1000HD.

I would use two hardwood runners instead of a single runner of either. Why, because the two runners gives greater accuracy and the hardwood runners are much easier to replace and have a similar life service time as the aluminum ones.

That being said, it all depends on the "hardwood" chosen. For me it would be either jatoba or jarrah, though ipe is certainly a good choice.

Deb

On 2/7/15, 10:24 AM, wrote:


Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars


I have an Incra miter. This miter uses nylon 'washers' that expand
outwards with a screw. In theory it works fine, but on my table saw they
are expanded to the limit and tend to wear quickly. The original Delta
miter bar has a perfect fit, but the bar is too short to transfer it
over to my Incra. I can't really see how the bar sold by Rockler
adjusts, I assume it also expands where the slots are. A better solution
but with only two points of adjustment there would be issues when the
bar has only one of the points in the slot, such as when mitering a wide
board.

I solved the problem by drilling a bunch of threaded holes through the
side of the Incra miter bar and installing set screws with the spring
loaded ball bearing tips (problem solved). Being that the OEM Delta bar
has a great fit, the sizes seem to be standard within a manufacture (my
old Craftsman saw had slots narrower than 3/4"). It would be nice to
just be able to buy a miter with a manufacture-specific bar.

-BR


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 08:45:09 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/7/15, 10:24 AM, wrote:


Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars


I have an Incra miter. This miter uses nylon 'washers' that expand
outwards with a screw. In theory it works fine, but on my table saw they
are expanded to the limit and tend to wear quickly. The original Delta
miter bar has a perfect fit, but the bar is too short to transfer it
over to my Incra. I can't really see how the bar sold by Rockler
adjusts, I assume it also expands where the slots are. A better solution
but with only two points of adjustment there would be issues when the
bar has only one of the points in the slot, such as when mitering a wide
board.

What saw? My '09 Unisaur has a .750" (as close as I can measure it)
miter bar. The Incra and JessEm bars are exactly the same.

I solved the problem by drilling a bunch of threaded holes through the
side of the Incra miter bar and installing set screws with the spring
loaded ball bearing tips (problem solved). Being that the OEM Delta bar
has a great fit, the sizes seem to be standard within a manufacture (my
old Craftsman saw had slots narrower than 3/4"). It would be nice to
just be able to buy a miter with a manufacture-specific bar.

Nice idea!


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 2/8/15, 5:01 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 08:45:09 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/7/15, 10:24 AM, wrote:


Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars


I have an Incra miter. This miter uses nylon 'washers' that expand
outwards with a screw. In theory it works fine, but on my table saw they
are expanded to the limit and tend to wear quickly. The original Delta
miter bar has a perfect fit, but the bar is too short to transfer it
over to my Incra. I can't really see how the bar sold by Rockler
adjusts, I assume it also expands where the slots are. A better solution
but with only two points of adjustment there would be issues when the
bar has only one of the points in the slot, such as when mitering a wide
board.

What saw? My '09 Unisaur has a .750" (as close as I can measure it)
miter bar. The Incra and JessEm bars are exactly the same.

Unisaur, 2002 thereabouts (Platinum 75th Ed.), .758"
My Incara bar is .728".

I have some of the blue anodized Rockler miter bar left over from my
router table. It measures .748" and is a bit too wobbly on the table saw.

I solved the problem by drilling a bunch of threaded holes through the
side of the Incra miter bar and installing set screws with the spring
loaded ball bearing tips (problem solved). Being that the OEM Delta bar
has a great fit, the sizes seem to be standard within a manufacture (my
old Craftsman saw had slots narrower than 3/4"). It would be nice to
just be able to buy a miter with a manufacture-specific bar.

Nice idea!


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On Mon, 09 Feb 2015 10:52:02 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/8/15, 5:01 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 08:45:09 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/7/15, 10:24 AM, wrote:


Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.
http://www.rockler.com/incrareg-miter-slider-bars


I have an Incra miter. This miter uses nylon 'washers' that expand
outwards with a screw. In theory it works fine, but on my table saw they
are expanded to the limit and tend to wear quickly. The original Delta
miter bar has a perfect fit, but the bar is too short to transfer it
over to my Incra. I can't really see how the bar sold by Rockler
adjusts, I assume it also expands where the slots are. A better solution
but with only two points of adjustment there would be issues when the
bar has only one of the points in the slot, such as when mitering a wide
board.

What saw? My '09 Unisaur has a .750" (as close as I can measure it)
miter bar. The Incra and JessEm bars are exactly the same.

Unisaur, 2002 thereabouts (Platinum 75th Ed.), .758"
My Incara bar is .728".

Seems the Unisaur isn't that far oversized, rather the Incra is *way*
too small and probably defective. I'd ask Incra what its dimension
should be. Maybe they'll send a replacement.

I have some of the blue anodized Rockler miter bar left over from my
router table. It measures .748" and is a bit too wobbly on the table saw.

I solved the problem by drilling a bunch of threaded holes through the
side of the Incra miter bar and installing set screws with the spring
loaded ball bearing tips (problem solved). Being that the OEM Delta bar
has a great fit, the sizes seem to be standard within a manufacture (my
old Craftsman saw had slots narrower than 3/4"). It would be nice to
just be able to buy a miter with a manufacture-specific bar.

Nice idea!


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