I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 13:22:10 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.

Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

I have a couple bits like you describe, but they are de-burring bits.
Could that be what you have?

On 1/21/2015 3:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?



Something like these countersinks? Keep us informed of how they work as
you use them more. I have often wondered how well they hold up.

http://festoolusa.com/search/?q=countersink

"Electric Comet" wrote in message
...
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

I have a few of those I bought at Horrible Fright that I use for de-burring
pin and screw holes in aluminum molds. They seem to work pretty good so far
for that. I have used them in wood, but not much. They are cheap enough
even if they don't last I can always buy more. They seem to chatter a lot
less in aluminum than other tools I have used for the job.

http://www.harborfreight.com/counter...-pc-61629.html

Hey, they still have them. Woo! Hoo! They have lost so much of their
product line in the last few years I always have to check.

I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How have they
worked out?



Something like these countersinks? Keep us informed of how they work as
you use them more. I have often wondered how well they hold up.

http://festoolusa.com/search/?q=countersink



.. this is the version that Lee Valley sells -
.. I haven't tried them.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42240,42281

John T.


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 13:22:10 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

I bought a set of them from Woodcraft some time back. As far as I'm
concerned, they work quite well. I've only used them in a drill
press, though.

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 16:34:46 -0600
Gordon Shumway wrote:

I have a couple bits like you describe, but they are de-burring bits.
Could that be what you have?

They can be used to deburr also, yes

On 1/21/2015 5:12 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/21/2015 3:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?



Something like these countersinks? Keep us informed of how they work as
you use them more. I have often wondered how well they hold up.

http://festoolusa.com/search/?q=countersink

Lack of chatter... :-)

Martin

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 17:12:59 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Something like these countersinks? Keep us informed of how they work
as you use them more. I have often wondered how well they hold up.


They are like those pilotless bits. They are no-name but seem fine.
I just played in some fir and liked the clean cut

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 17:01:49 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

I have a few of those I bought at Horrible Fright that I use for
de-burring pin and screw holes in aluminum molds. They seem to work
pretty good so far for that. I have used them in wood, but not
much. They are cheap enough even if they don't last I can always buy
more. They seem to chatter a lot less in aluminum than other tools I
have used for the job.

These bits and step bits are now my favorites

I'm now embarking on research to find bits for boring wood up to
18" deep and accurate and clean without burn. I found some
FAMAG bits but are expensive

On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 11:25:03 AM UTC-10, Electric Comet wrote:
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

I've used the Weller brand in AL and wood and they make very smooth countersinks.

Electric Comet wrote in news:m9pmeb$kke$6
@dont-email.me:

I'm now embarking on research to find bits for boring wood up to
18" deep and accurate and clean without burn. I found some
FAMAG bits but are expensive

Are you building a boat? That seems to be the place where
long holes are often needed. As far as I know, boatbuilders
usually use a ship auger bit, usually in a brace rather than
a power drill. But those bits tend to cut oversize, so they
may not fit the "accurate" part of your requirement.

John

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 16:21:07 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

Are you building a boat? That seems to be the place where
long holes are often needed. As far as I know, boatbuilders
usually use a ship auger bit, usually in a brace rather than
a power drill. But those bits tend to cut oversize, so they
may not fit the "accurate" part of your requirement.

Augers can wander like crazy even in a brace.
there's a guy that uses a metal lathe to bore holes in wood to
get clean, accurate holes.

clearing the swath is critical to prevent heat and burn

I saw a machine on craigslist but never got a reply. 99% of posts
on craigslist don't reply

I will probably buy a FAMAG bit although I found a japanese bit
that looks like an auger but is advertised to meet my needs too

Electric Comet wrote in news:m9r9se$mgb$5
@dont-email.me:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 16:21:07 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

Are you building a boat? That seems to be the place where
long holes are often needed. As far as I know, boatbuilders
usually use a ship auger bit, usually in a brace rather than
a power drill. But those bits tend to cut oversize, so they
may not fit the "accurate" part of your requirement.

Augers can wander like crazy even in a brace.

Yeah, boatbuilders tend to do a lot of praying while they're
drilling long holes. Fortunately, in boats the hole is almost
always open at both ends, so you can drill halfway from both
sides, which cuts down the error.

John

"John McCoy" wrote in message
. ..
Electric Comet wrote in news:m9r9se$mgb$5
@dont-email.me:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 16:21:07 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

Are you building a boat? That seems to be the place where
long holes are often needed. As far as I know, boatbuilders
usually use a ship auger bit, usually in a brace rather than
a power drill. But those bits tend to cut oversize, so they
may not fit the "accurate" part of your requirement.

Augers can wander like crazy even in a brace.

Yeah, boatbuilders tend to do a lot of praying while they're
drilling long holes. Fortunately, in boats the hole is almost
always open at both ends, so you can drill halfway from both
sides, which cuts down the error.

John

Deep drilling is always tough. Still a self feeding bit like a ship auger
is probably as good a bet as anything. The key is in keeping the drive
square, and feeding the drive at the rate the bit self feeds. For smaller
holes its harder because the bit flexes more.

On 1/22/2015 6:19 AM, GeneT wrote:
On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 11:25:03 AM UTC-10, Electric Comet wrote:
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

I've used the Weller brand in AL and wood and they make very smooth countersinks.


I use them. That is what machinists use, some come with a pilot bearing,
so they stay centered, others do not.
They are smooth as silk. They do a nice shearing cut.

--
Jeff

On 1/22/2015 4:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"John McCoy" wrote in message
. ..
Electric Comet wrote in news:m9r9se$mgb$5
@dont-email.me:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 16:21:07 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy wrote:

Are you building a boat? That seems to be the place where
long holes are often needed. As far as I know, boatbuilders
usually use a ship auger bit, usually in a brace rather than
a power drill. But those bits tend to cut oversize, so they
may not fit the "accurate" part of your requirement.

Augers can wander like crazy even in a brace.

Yeah, boatbuilders tend to do a lot of praying while they're
drilling long holes. Fortunately, in boats the hole is almost
always open at both ends, so you can drill halfway from both
sides, which cuts down the error.

John

Deep drilling is always tough. Still a self feeding bit like a ship
auger is probably as good a bet as anything. The key is in keeping the
drive square, and feeding the drive at the rate the bit self feeds. For
smaller holes its harder because the bit flexes more.

I have a nice long brace and bit extension. I want to say it is 30" or
36.
Dad bought it in the early 50's - Stanley naturally - so he could put
holes through the big timbers used in our large Victorian house we had.
I have bits that fit it - and several braces. We both used them before
spade bits came out and continue to even afterwards on most things.

Martin

On 1/21/15, 7:02 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 1/21/2015 5:12 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/21/2015 3:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?



Something like these countersinks? Keep us informed of how they work as
you use them more. I have often wondered how well they hold up.

http://festoolusa.com/search/?q=countersink

Lack of chatter... :-)

Martin

I use these all the time for countersinking.
I use to use the "standard" toothed tools and they work well _except_
for the chatter which produces a rough hole in hard/grainy woods. You
can reduce the chatter to insignificance with careful choice of feed
rates, but it takes practice.
I have the Lee Valley countersinks and they cut just as fast as the
toothed version but with virtually no need to fuss around trying to get
a clean taper.

Nothing against the toothed countersink bits, they still get the nod
when cutting metal and other materials with uniform properties, but this
is one case where I believe in 'the right tool for the job'.

-BR


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

I have been using the single point countersinks for over 20 years.
They outlast and outperform the other type. The countersinks are smooth
and chatter free, especially in aluminum and plastics.

But once I found this type, I seldom use anything else. Any project
that requires multiple countersunk flat head fasteners make these a must
have. All the countersinks are exactly the identical/correct depth
without thinking or guessing.

http://www.amazon.com/Boulderfly-Nyl.../dp/B00AJZ3SAU

On 1/21/2015 3:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I got a set of countersink bits that I'd never seen before. They have
a hole drilled diagonally. They have no drill bit they're just for
a countersink. They make a clean hole. I'd always just winged it
with a drill bit but that doesn't produce the best result. Even
if you put a collar on the bit to limit depth.


Have you been using this style of countersink? How hae they
worked out?

On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 02:37:34 -0600
DanG wrote:

I have been using the single point countersinks for over 20 years.
They outlast and outperform the other type. The countersinks are
smooth and chatter free, especially in aluminum and plastics.

Not sure what single point countersinks are.


But once I found this type, I seldom use anything else. Any project
that requires multiple countersunk flat head fasteners make these a
must have. All the countersinks are exactly the identical/correct
depth without thinking or guessing.

The ones I got also are a fixed depth by design. No need for the
foot piece in that set you mention.

They are cheaper and it turns out I got 6 sizes as the smallest in the set
has a different size on each end. So 5 bits but 6 sizes.