Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?

I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.

Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
pipe.

On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 10:11:20 PM UTC-8, Electric Comet wrote:
Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?...I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.

Ferrules is the search term. One can hammer tubing to open one end up to
make 'em, if you can find a suitable mandrel. Copper might work, but
steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until you have
a ferrule to do fit-testing.

On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 12:32:13 AM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
Copper might work, but
steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until you have
a ferrule to do fit-testing.

Yep, ferrule is the term.
Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).

Sonny

Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?
I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.
Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
pipe.



10 sizes at Lee Valley ...

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...21&cat=1,41504

John T.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Electric Comet writes:
Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?

I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.

Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
pipe.

I believe both lee valley and woodcraft carry ferrules in various
diameters and materials.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 15:04:00 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:

I believe both lee valley and woodcraft carry ferrules in various
diameters and materials.

Woodcraft does not. I did find a couple of other places that had them,
but none had the selection that Lee Valley does.

Larry Blanchard writes:
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 15:04:00 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:

I believe both lee valley and woodcraft carry ferrules in various
diameters and materials.

Woodcraft does not. I did find a couple of other places that had them,
but none had the selection that Lee Valley does.

Hmm. Woodcraft used to carry them in the stores, I've purchased them
in the past.

On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 22:32:10 -0800 (PST)
whit3rd wrote:

Ferrules is the search term. One can hammer tubing to open one end
up to make 'em, if you can find a suitable mandrel. Copper might
work, but steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until
you have a ferrule to do fit-testing.

Ferrules! Right. Now I find a lot of info. I've got some copper
so mmight as well try.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Sonny wrote:

Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).

yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 09:33:55 -0500
wrote:


10 sizes at Lee Valley ...

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...21&cat=1,41504

That's a nice store. a little pricey for my low low budget and
cheapness.

Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Sonny wrote:

Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).

yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least

Do that. Buff it up to as high a gloss as you can, then make sure any
buffing compound is completely wiped off. Shoot it with clear lacquer
(spray can is fine), but make sure the humidity is low. Lacquer does not
like high humidity - it blushes when the humidity is high. This is not just
a suggestion - this is a proven technique.

--

-Mike-

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 12:31:46 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Sonny wrote:

Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).

yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least






You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)

On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:20:07 PM UTC-6, wrote:

You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)

An Ah, Ha! moment, here. Never thought of string windings. Probably looks pretty darn good, too.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:20:07 PM UTC-6, wrote:

You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
An Ah, Ha! moment, here. Never thought of string windings. Probably looks pretty darn good, too.

Sonny
I don't know how many fly rods you've seen, but if you are good with the
thread you can get quite artistic.

On 1/16/2015 12:32 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 10:11:20 PM UTC-8, Electric Comet wrote:
Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?...I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.

Ferrules is the search term. One can hammer tubing to open one end up to
make 'em, if you can find a suitable mandrel. Copper might work, but
steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until you have
a ferrule to do fit-testing.

I've used large hex nuts. Think plumbing nuts. Brass or Bronze.
I've threaded them on.

Just a thought. Won't expand on heat and slip off.
I have a steel lathe also. Making one is work but possible.
Martin

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 17:19:55 -0500
wrote:

You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)

I've got some kevlar fishing line but not sure if CA would ruin it.

This technique would be nice for handheld carving tools.

On 1/16/2015 1:08 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?

I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.

Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
pipe.



I got mine at Lee Valley.


--
Jeff

On 1/16/2015 5:43 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:20:07 PM UTC-6, wrote:

You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)

An Ah, Ha! moment, here. Never thought of string windings. Probably looks pretty darn good, too.

Sonny


Yep, it's very good. When I dropped my original miter gauge from my
delta I used my drill press to make a new handle, and wrapped the bottom
with dacron, soaked in in glue (don't remember if it was c/a or
epoxy)... it's better than the original, nicer grip too.

--
Jeff

On 1/17/2015 10:51 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 17:19:55 -0500
wrote:

You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)

I've got some kevlar fishing line but not sure if CA would ruin it.

This technique would be nice for handheld carving tools.






C/A doesn't ruin Kevlar, UV does.


--
Jeff

On 1/16/2015 3:32 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 09:33:55 -0500
wrote:


10 sizes at Lee Valley ...

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...21&cat=1,41504

That's a nice store. a little pricey for my low low budget and
cheapness.












Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.

--
Jeff

On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 11:33:35 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.

3/4" copper pipe will work fine
used emory cloth on it to give it a brushed finish
coupla coats of lacquer

pennies vs. $

found good tips online

Electric Comet wrote in news:m9e4r4$fl8$3
@dont-email.me:

On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 11:33:35 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.

3/4" copper pipe will work fine
used emory cloth on it to give it a brushed finish
coupla coats of lacquer

pennies vs. $

found good tips online


I made a little knife and used 1/2" copper pipe for the ferrule. Cleaned
it up with the lathe, trued it round inside and out, and then glued it
on. I've got a lot to learn about the process, but for a first attempt
it worked pretty well.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 17 Jan 2015 18:25:38 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Electric Comet wrote in news:m9e4r4$fl8$3
:

On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 11:33:35 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.

3/4" copper pipe will work fine
used emory cloth on it to give it a brushed finish
coupla coats of lacquer

pennies vs. $

found good tips online


I made a little knife and used 1/2" copper pipe for the ferrule. Cleaned
it up with the lathe, trued it round inside and out, and then glued it
on. I've got a lot to learn about the process, but for a first attempt
it worked pretty well.

Puckdropper
When using copper pipe, turn the wood to be a VERY tight fit in the
copper - like an interference fit - and then heat the copper to about
350F. Copper expands linearly almost 1 thou per 100 degrees F, so 350F
will expand the diameter of the ring about 1 thou

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 12:31:46 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Sonny wrote:

Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).

yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least






You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.

Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.

Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)

That's a good thought. Back when I played pool I wrapped my Diamond cue
with 65 pound braided dacron fishing line. I later used it on a couple
machete handles, and if I knew where to get some more of it I would use it
on my parang. I bet Spectra braid would work nice on a chisel handle
though. Just turn it with a slight lip to start the wrap, epoxy the end
into a small hole, and start spinning. You could pull some nice 60-80 lb
Spectra (preferabley a coarse brand and not a slick finish brand) as tight
as you wanted as long as it didn't pop over past the previous wrap.