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#1
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...?noredirect=1# Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary, just the photo link I use to keep the client updated on the progress of their project. The client wants things as "plain as can be ... no round overs, no profiles, just broken edges and rectangles". No problem. Good news is that so far the weather here has been such as to make working in the shop an absolutely pleasant experience. Enjoying it while I can ... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
On 5/15/2014 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote:
Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary "Challenging" is relative, of course. I built something similar and managed to find a challenge in it. I'm curious about the lower cabinets. Why the gap in the top? I see that there will be another piece on top that will cover it, but is it simply a matter of saving wood? Weight? --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#3
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
On 5/15/2014 10:38 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 5/15/2014 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote: Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary "Challenging" is relative, of course. I built something similar and managed to find a challenge in it. I'm curious about the lower cabinets. Why the gap in the top? I see that there will be another piece on top that will cover it, but is it simply a matter of saving wood? Weight? Wood and Weight savings is correct. You might be surprised how often you have to buy another sheet of plywood in order to make the top solid. When the top does not have to be solid, scrap pieces can often be used. I very often will do the same and just as often redraw the top pieces narrower in the drawing so that my optimization program, that tells me how much material to buy, will suggest one less sheet of material. Making a piece an inch narrower, when it does not matter can often saver you $75~$120 in materials. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
Greg Guarino wrote:
On 5/15/2014 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote: Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary "Challenging" is relative, of course. I built something similar and managed to find a challenge in it. I'm curious about the lower cabinets. Why the gap in the top? I see that there will be another piece on top that will cover it, but is it simply a matter of saving wood? Weight? --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com The top strips in the two side cabinets, besides being structural, have two functions: Being the same as, and batch cut to dimension with the floor, they provide support while keep the end panels parallel; and they are used to attach the 1 1/2" thick counter top (3/4" thick substrate plus 3/4" thick birch ply top). The Bench Seat cabinet was not deigned that way since it needed a partition, and extra strength to hold two or three sitting adults. -- www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile) |
#5
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 5/15/2014 10:38 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: On 5/15/2014 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote: Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary "Challenging" is relative, of course. I built something similar and managed to find a challenge in it. I'm curious about the lower cabinets. Why the gap in the top? I see that there will be another piece on top that will cover it, but is it simply a matter of saving wood? Weight? Wood and Weight savings is correct. You might be surprised how often you have to buy another sheet of plywood in order to make the top solid. When the top does not have to be solid, scrap pieces can often be used. I very often will do the same and just as often redraw the top pieces narrower in the drawing so that my optimization program, that tells me how much material to buy, will suggest one less sheet of material. Making a piece an inch narrower, when it does not matter can often saver you $75~$120 in materials. And that also. -- www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile) |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
On 5/15/2014 11:40 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 5/15/2014 10:38 AM, Greg Guarino wrote: On 5/15/2014 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote: Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary "Challenging" is relative, of course. I built something similar and managed to find a challenge in it. I'm curious about the lower cabinets. Why the gap in the top? I see that there will be another piece on top that will cover it, but is it simply a matter of saving wood? Weight? Wood and Weight savings is correct. You might be surprised how often you have to buy another sheet of plywood in order to make the top solid. When the top does not have to be solid, scrap pieces can often be used. I very often will do the same and just as often redraw the top pieces narrower in the drawing so that my optimization program, that tells me how much material to buy, will suggest one less sheet of material. Making a piece an inch narrower, when it does not matter can often saver you $75~$120 in materials. And that also. LOL! ;~) Uh Huh.... |
#7
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
Karl ...
How are you treating the plywood edges? Larry On Thursday, May 15, 2014 8:12:18 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...?noredirect=1# Nothing fancy, challenging or out of the ordinary, just the photo link I use to keep the client updated on the progress of their project. The client wants things as "plain as can be ... no round overs, no profiles, just broken edges and rectangles". No problem. Good news is that so far the weather here has been such as to make working in the shop an absolutely pleasant experience. Enjoying it while I can ... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#8
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Small built-in cabinet project ... in progress.
On 5/15/2014 4:57 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Karl ... How are you treating the plywood edges? Background: The client does not want FF cabinets, and wants a "simple Euro" frameless look. "Simple" is an oxymoron here. Frameless cabinetry is much less forgiving and more difficult to accomplish in a "shop built", "built-in" installation than faceframe cabinetry. That is, unless you take the shortcut of actually building the cabinetry onto the walls, a method to which I do not subscribe, for lasting work in today's poorly built homes. So, to answer your question: 3/4"T x 3/4"W birch hardwood "edge banding" on visible horizontal edges; and 3/4"T x 1"W on vertical edges. Normally I would just use glue-on the ubiquitous birch edge banding, but you need to have some thickness available to scribe to non plumb/square walls if you are forbidden to use trim to cover up and gaps. (this extremely particular client forbids anything that looks like "trim") If you look you can see the 3/4" "edge banding" idea expressed in the photos of each cabinet. They also want any vertical end panels that are visible to be 1" wide, and all the horizontal components (shelves, etc) to be 3/4" thick; except for the counter tops and bench seat, which are spec'ed for 1 1/2" thickness. Since the way you usually get that 1" thick look with 3/4" material is with FF's, a bit of trickery is involved. Since the cabinet boxes and shelve must be attached to the walls on each end of the run, I'm using 1 1/4" wide hardwood material to give me the spec'ed 1" width on the outside stiles, which will be against the walls, plus a little extra to allow scribing to the walls. The outside "stiles"/end panels on the shelf unit must be a flush 1", with NO overhang. This is actually a good thing, because it lets me make the two outside end panels out of 3/4" material, than "face" those two panels on the outside with 1/4" material that can be applied after installation, giving me the added ability to scribe that 1/4" T "face" panel to the back wall to cover any gaps there. That visible plywood edge of the combined panels will then be covered with said 3/4" x 1" birch hardwood "edge banding". (walls have been measured and are neither square nor plumb, there is approx 3/8" variance in the distance between the side walls from top to bottom - 114 3/4" to 114 3/8", and back wall is 1/4" out of plumb from top to bottom) More than you wanted to know, but one thing leads to another, explanation. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
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