http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/

Hi all,

Well, Pete the Builder's been busy. Internal walls are up and the glass
blocks are in one of the modified windows. At 2.50 to 3.50 + VAT per block,
it's quite a cost effective way of doing the odd window - and ideal for a
loo or shower location if you like that sort of thing...

A bit of investigation into the dormer roof shows we have cross ventilation
between the dormers. So we need to vent the fascias (no soffits). That will
be the subject of another thread...

And... today, I learnt how to use a box sinker and wall chaser. Came up with
a "standard" to have a single comms plate (Euromod) above (probably) every
twin 13A socket. Looks OK. Think I'll use this pattern everywhere. For the
cost of a metal box, blanking plate and 2m of round conduit (ie less than 2
quid) there's no reason not to sink a comms box next to every socket.

BTW - I didn't put the comms on the same horizontal level as I don't want to
take mains though the back of the comms box should it be in a position that
the mains will be running horizontally to the next socket. And I didn't
want to change the layout depending on where the mains goes.

Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/

Hi all,

Well, Pete the Builder's been busy. Internal walls are up and the glass
blocks are in one of the modified windows. At 2.50 to 3.50 + VAT per
block,
it's quite a cost effective way of doing the odd window - and ideal for a
loo or shower location if you like that sort of thing...

A bit of investigation into the dormer roof shows we have cross
ventilation
between the dormers. So we need to vent the fascias (no soffits). That
will
be the subject of another thread...

And... today, I learnt how to use a box sinker and wall chaser. Came up
with
a "standard" to have a single comms plate (Euromod) above (probably) every
twin 13A socket. Looks OK. Think I'll use this pattern everywhere. For the
cost of a metal box, blanking plate and 2m of round conduit (ie less than
2
quid) there's no reason not to sink a comms box next to every socket.

BTW - I didn't put the comms on the same horizontal level as I don't want
to
take mains though the back of the comms box should it be in a position
that
the mains will be running horizontally to the next socket. And I didn't
want to change the layout depending on where the mains goes.

Cheers

Tim

Not bad going mate.

All I have to show for Christmas is a skip full of empty bottles, a sore
head and a bit of a black eye.

Am I correct in assuming that you are going for bonding and finish on the
walls instead of dot and dab?

Adam

"Owain" wrote in message
news
ARWadsworth wrote:
All I have to show for Christmas is a skip full of empty bottles, a sore
head and a bit of a black eye.

Do tell, there's nothing much on the telly tonight, could do with some
entertainment

Owain

There is never anything on the telly worth watching. But as you asked.

1) The empty bottles are due to parties
2) The sore head is due to the empty bottles
3) I caught someone pinching my girlfriends purse from her handbag in a pub.
I forgot the golden rule and I forgot to watch my back. The landlord was
from Glasgow. He blacked everyones eyes before deciding which side he was on
before calling the police. Is 90 miles away from him safe enough to call him
a fat ******* even though he eventually joined my side?

Adam

ARWadsworth coughed up some electrons that declared:


Not bad going mate.

All I have to show for Christmas is a skip full of empty bottles,

Nothing wrong with that Adam...

a sore head and a bit of a black eye.

Unless it caused this of course

Am I correct in assuming that you are going for bonding and finish on the
walls instead of dot and dab?

It will be plastered - I hate PB on walls. Plastering the celcon blocks is
in the job spec for Pete the Builder - on the old walls I'll learn to make
good myself.

I've been using a few blobs of Nomorenails to lock the conduit in position
prior to plastering - seems to work.

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/

Hi Tim

I like this thread, please keep us up to date. Almost like a TV soap :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
ARWadsworth coughed up some electrons that declared:


Not bad going mate.

All I have to show for Christmas is a skip full of empty bottles,

Nothing wrong with that Adam...

a sore head and a bit of a black eye.

Unless it caused this of course

Am I correct in assuming that you are going for bonding and finish on
the
walls instead of dot and dab?

It will be plastered - I hate PB on walls. Plastering the celcon blocks is
in the job spec for Pete the Builder - on the old walls I'll learn to make
good myself.

I've been using a few blobs of Nomorenails to lock the conduit in position
prior to plastering - seems to work.


Hooray. Someone else that hates dry wall.

Fill the back boxes with plastic bags before the walls are plastered. Other
methods are cardboard cutouts that are a tight fit or just making sure you
are on site to remove the excess plaster just before it dries.

Adam

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/

Hi Tim

I like this thread, please keep us up to date. Almost like a TV soap :-)



OK

Try this:

http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08-1/

For some world class needless bodgery...

Except the 1st pic - that's not a bodge - that's a shaver socket and spare
conduit for a mirror light in the shower area. Mirror light might
technically be just outside Zone 2 - but I think I'll put in a SELV light
for good measure anyway...

On the bodgery, a quick precis - had some more floor up so I gould find the
conduit I'd just poked up from below.

Discovered:

2 "8x2" joists are actually the old ceiling rafters packed up with more 4x2.
They did this down the sides to avoid cutting the tie beams any further,
but this is in the main floor area where the load is. One is probably
because they hadn't invented joist hangers in 1975 (sarcasm) as it would
have to hang off the chimney breast. The other has little excude as it goes
past the chimney where there's a load bearing wall.

The loft hatch wasn't removed - they just built over it notching a perfectly
good new 8x2 joist out. Sigh... But it's probably almost as strong as the
loft hatch framing is well nailed and is holding the joist in part.

The best one was: Let's space all the joists at 450-500mm, which is a bit of
a gap anyway. Now let's space 2 at 600mm. I don't think floorboards are
going to like 600mm gaps. 500mm gaps will mean I'd better get some thicker
than normal boards.

Looks like 3 extra 8x2 joists I'll have to put in for good measure...

Question:
=========
Would 20mm be acceptable thickness for floorboards spanning 500mm? Not
tongue and grooved - I need easy access, so plain boards only. Might be
able to go to oak if that helps - seen some good prices on the internet.

Cheers

Tim

In article ,
Tim S writes:

Question:
=========
Would 20mm be acceptable thickness for floorboards spanning 500mm? Not
tongue and grooved - I need easy access, so plain boards only. Might be
able to go to oak if that helps - seen some good prices on the internet.

I suspect 18mm ply would be OK, but don't cut it down to plank widths.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S writes:

Question:
=========
Would 20mm be acceptable thickness for floorboards spanning 500mm? Not
tongue and grooved - I need easy access, so plain boards only. Might be
able to go to oak if that helps - seen some good prices on the internet.

I suspect 18mm ply would be OK, but don't cut it down to plank widths.


Sorry - should have been clearer - I'd like floorboards, as in planks, on
show.

We hate carpets and it's good for servicing the building infrastructure
(which all goes under the upstairs floor) to be able to lift bits of the
floor without a lot of faffing. To this end, it'll all be screwed down.

After doing a bit of research, seems that 20mm or 3/4" is/was the standard
for thicker boards. I suppose wide planks would help. If I get new wood,
then the option to go for 25mm exist too.

I'll have a play with Superbeam later too - though my ability to drive it
(and guess wood classes for reclaimed wood) are limited.

Cheers

Tim

Owain wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tim S wrote:
http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/
I like this thread, please keep us up to date. Almost like a TV
soap :-)

Hope it's not too much like Crossroads (wobbly walls)

Prisoner Cell Block H was the best for that :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Owain coughed up some electrons that declared:

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tim S wrote:
http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/
I like this thread, please keep us up to date. Almost like a TV soap :-)

Hope it's not too much like Crossroads (wobbly walls)

Owain

More like a rodent version of EastEnders - what with all the bodies under
the floor ;-

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Owain wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tim S wrote:
http://www.dionic.net/Alveston/Dec08/
I like this thread, please keep us up to date. Almost like a TV
soap :-)

Hope it's not too much like Crossroads (wobbly walls)

Prisoner Cell Block H was the best for that :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a5qRmapXo


46 seconds in

Adam