I scored a 2-foot by 8-foot section of bendy-wood with a beautiful maple face today. I'm going to use this for a curved base for a coffee table. The base will be about 6 inches in width. Wondering about the framework for the base. My instinct is to use 2x6s vertically with a cross piece connecting the verticles. I will cap it upper and lower with 4/4 oak, which will give me plenty of surface for bolting the base to the 8/4 oak top. So ... is Titebond sufficent to adhere the bendy to the framework or do I need to mess with epoxy? For stability, I'm also planning on loading the base with a couple of 50 pound sandbags. Any thoughts?

By the way, the bendy cost me $5 from a local cabinet shop going out of business.

Larry

"Gramps' shop" wrote:

I scored a 2-foot by 8-foot section of bendy-wood with a beautiful
maple face today. I'm going to use this for a curved base for a
coffee table. The base will be about 6 inches in width. Wondering
about the framework for the base. My instinct is to use 2x6s
vertically with a cross piece connecting the verticles. I will cap it
upper and lower with 4/4 oak, which will give me plenty of surface for
bolting the base to the 8/4 oak top. So ... is Titebond sufficent to
adhere the bendy to the framework or do I need to mess with epoxy?
For stability, I'm also planning on loading the base with a couple of
50 pound sandbags. Any thoughts?

By the way, the bendy cost me $5 from a local cabinet shop going out
of business.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Epoxy is not best choice for white oak.

The usual choice would be resorcinol for white oak.

That said, given decent joints, TiteBond-II would be my choice for the
project.

Lew

On 4/1/2014 10:06 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Epoxy is not best choice for white oak.

The usual choice would be resorcinol for white oak.

That said, given decent joints, TiteBond-II would be my choice for the
project.

Lew




Lew why is it not a good choice for white oak?


--
Jeff

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 23:00:41 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 4/1/2014 10:06 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Epoxy is not best choice for white oak.

The usual choice would be resorcinol for white oak.

That said, given decent joints, TiteBond-II would be my choice for the
project.

Lew




Lew why is it not a good choice for white oak?
I'm not Lew, but the tannin in white oak can affect the bond. Also
Epoxy does not "soak into" white oak well. (not like the more open Red
oak)
If you wash the oak down with a "hot" solvent like acetone, then heat
the oak and the epoxy, the heat-thinned epoxy will be drawn into the
pores of the oak as it cools. (warm air contracts as it cools,
vacuuming the thinned epoxy into the pore) You will get a good bond
this way with West Systems product - no experience with anything else.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Epoxy is not best choice for white oak.

The usual choice would be resorcinol for white oak.

That said, given decent joints, TiteBond-II would be my choice for
the
project.
----------------------------------------------------
woodchucker wrote:

Lew why is it not a good choice for white oak?
------------------------------------------------------------
wrote:

I'm not Lew, but the tannin in white oak can affect the bond. Also
Epoxy does not "soak into" white oak well. (not like the more open
Red
oak)
If you wash the oak down with a "hot" solvent like acetone, then
heat
the oak and the epoxy, the heat-thinned epoxy will be drawn into the
pores of the oak as it cools. (warm air contracts as it cools,
vacuuming the thinned epoxy into the pore) You will get a good bond
this way with West Systems product - no experience with anything
else.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Which is why resorcinol gets used to layup white oak boat ribs
which are ususally 3/4" laminations.

Epoxy is just too much bloody work IMHO.


Lew

On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 21:10:28 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:



Lew Hodgett wrote:

Epoxy is not best choice for white oak.

The usual choice would be resorcinol for white oak.

That said, given decent joints, TiteBond-II would be my choice for
the
project.
----------------------------------------------------
woodchucker wrote:

Lew why is it not a good choice for white oak?
------------------------------------------------------------
wrote:

I'm not Lew, but the tannin in white oak can affect the bond. Also
Epoxy does not "soak into" white oak well. (not like the more open
Red
oak)
If you wash the oak down with a "hot" solvent like acetone, then
heat
the oak and the epoxy, the heat-thinned epoxy will be drawn into the
pores of the oak as it cools. (warm air contracts as it cools,
vacuuming the thinned epoxy into the pore) You will get a good bond
this way with West Systems product - no experience with anything
else.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Which is why resorcinol gets used to layup white oak boat ribs
which are ususally 3/4" laminations.

Epoxy is just too much bloody work IMHO.


Lew

but cleaning up resorcinol is a royal PAIN!!

wrote:

but cleaning up resorcinol is a royal PAIN!!
------------------------------------------
Which is why I suggested TiteBond II based on
conditions given.

Both epoxy and resorcinol can be a pain,

Lew