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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dull comparedto sharpened blade

Pretty good vid... watched it at 2 times speed..

I ran into a problem resawing yesterday, my first piece 9" maple was
true... my second one drifted and was hard to push. I realized my blade
must have dulled after a few years. I haven't drifted off my fence for a
long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/21/2014 11:35 AM, woodchucker wrote:
Pretty good vid... watched it at 2 times speed..

I ran into a problem resawing yesterday, my first piece 9" maple was
true... my second one drifted and was hard to push. I realized my blade
must have dulled after a few years. I haven't drifted off my fence for a
long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

Well, I decided to do it the way Mathias Wandel does it, with a dremel,
and a cutting wheel. Much easier I figured.. maybe , maybe not.

But wow does it cut now. Holly crap. If I were employed, I would have
just bought a new blade, probably a wood slicer instead of the timber
wolf just to give the wood slicer a try. But man that is cutting like
new.. better than new??? I don't know. But it just sliced through 6 inch
maple taking ribbons off. I even cut by hand, just turning the wheel
just to see if I had any high spots... freaking awesome.

A 105" blade took about 15-20 minutes... well worth the time for me.


--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dull compared to sharpened blade

"woodchucker" wrote in message

On 3/21/2014 11:35 AM, woodchucker wrote:
Pretty good vid... watched it at 2 times speed..

I ran into a problem resawing yesterday, my first piece
9" maple was true... my second one drifted and was
hard to push. I realized my blade must have dulled
after a few years. I haven't drifted off my fence for a
long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the
resaw again.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

Well, I decided to do it the way Mathias Wandel does it,
with a dremel, and a cutting wheel. Much easier I
figured.. maybe , maybe not.


Wouldn't it be even easier to put the blade on the saw backwards so it runs
with the teeth pointing up and let it run gently against a hand held stone?

--

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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/21/2014 4:19 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message

On 3/21/2014 11:35 AM, woodchucker wrote:
Pretty good vid... watched it at 2 times speed..

I ran into a problem resawing yesterday, my first piece
9" maple was true... my second one drifted and was
hard to push. I realized my blade must have dulled
after a few years. I haven't drifted off my fence for a
long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the
resaw again.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

Well, I decided to do it the way Mathias Wandel does it,
with a dremel, and a cutting wheel. Much easier I
figured.. maybe , maybe not.


Wouldn't it be even easier to put the blade on the saw backwards so it runs
with the teeth pointing up and let it run gently against a hand held stone?

I don't believe so. I think it would round the teeth.

Not willing to take that chance.

--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/21/2014 5:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/21/2014 4:19 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message

On 3/21/2014 11:35 AM, woodchucker wrote:
Pretty good vid... watched it at 2 times speed..

I ran into a problem resawing yesterday, my first piece
9" maple was true... my second one drifted and was
hard to push. I realized my blade must have dulled
after a few years. I haven't drifted off my fence for a
long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the
resaw again.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

Well, I decided to do it the way Mathias Wandel does it,
with a dremel, and a cutting wheel. Much easier I
figured.. maybe , maybe not.


Wouldn't it be even easier to put the blade on the saw backwards so it
runs
with the teeth pointing up and let it run gently against a hand held
stone?

I don't believe so. I think it would round the teeth.

Not willing to take that chance.

Well maybe don't sharpen your blade...!!!
I just had the bandsaw kick back and it bent the blade and lodged into a
piece of wood.

I imagine I did something wrong when sharpening.

Never had that happen b4.

Destroyed the wood and blade.

--
Jeff


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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dull compared to sharpened blade

"woodchucker" wrote in message
...

long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws


Interesting....

I kind of suspect that non-carbide bandsaw blades are not actually sharpened
after they are stamped out... so sharpening them improves them.

If the face, rather than the back of the teeth was sharpened they could
probably be sharpened more times... up to the point where the blade is work
hardened and breaks. Sharpening the back at the angle shown in the video
decreases the clearance behind the cutting edge more and more with each
sharpening so at some point there is basically no clearance and they don't
cut well.

I'd think that a thinner and finer grinding wheel would allow grinding the
face of the teeth with no more effort than grinding the backs.

It's got me thinking about making some fixtures for one of my grinders to
give this a try. I also need a fixture for grinding long blades (e.g., lawn
mower, machete) in a similar manner to a surface grinder... Would make for a
productive diversion!

John


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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/21/2014 11:25 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...

long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws


Interesting....

I kind of suspect that non-carbide bandsaw blades are not actually
sharpened after they are stamped out... so sharpening them improves them.

If the face, rather than the back of the teeth was sharpened they could
probably be sharpened more times... up to the point where the blade is
work hardened and breaks. Sharpening the back at the angle shown in the
video decreases the clearance behind the cutting edge more and more with
each sharpening so at some point there is basically no clearance and
they don't cut well.

I'd think that a thinner and finer grinding wheel would allow grinding
the face of the teeth with no more effort than grinding the backs.

It's got me thinking about making some fixtures for one of my grinders
to give this a try. I also need a fixture for grinding long blades
(e.g., lawn mower, machete) in a similar manner to a surface grinder...
Would make for a productive diversion!

John



Well pics once you come up with a jig. I ruined my blade, I think I
must have dulled a few teeth and caused it to grab while resawing.
I tried an old olson (don't like them), definetly sharper, but same.
Maybe doing the gullet side would be better.

--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 9:49 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/21/2014 11:25 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...

long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws


Interesting....

I kind of suspect that non-carbide bandsaw blades are not actually
sharpened after they are stamped out... so sharpening them improves them.

If the face, rather than the back of the teeth was sharpened they could
probably be sharpened more times... up to the point where the blade is
work hardened and breaks. Sharpening the back at the angle shown in the
video decreases the clearance behind the cutting edge more and more with
each sharpening so at some point there is basically no clearance and
they don't cut well.

I'd think that a thinner and finer grinding wheel would allow grinding
the face of the teeth with no more effort than grinding the backs.

It's got me thinking about making some fixtures for one of my grinders
to give this a try. I also need a fixture for grinding long blades
(e.g., lawn mower, machete) in a similar manner to a surface grinder...
Would make for a productive diversion!

John



Well pics once you come up with a jig. I ruined my blade, I think I
must have dulled a few teeth and caused it to grab while resawing.
I tried an old olson (don't like them), definetly sharper, but same.
Maybe doing the gullet side would be better.

Certainly better. While it is important to back grind and deepen the
gullet, the face grins is what gives you the lasting resharpening job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmvL011DTpA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmws4hDGgg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmws4hDGgg
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 12:05 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 9:49 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/21/2014 11:25 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...

long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

Interesting....

I kind of suspect that non-carbide bandsaw blades are not actually
sharpened after they are stamped out... so sharpening them improves
them.

If the face, rather than the back of the teeth was sharpened they could
probably be sharpened more times... up to the point where the blade is
work hardened and breaks. Sharpening the back at the angle shown in the
video decreases the clearance behind the cutting edge more and more with
each sharpening so at some point there is basically no clearance and
they don't cut well.

I'd think that a thinner and finer grinding wheel would allow grinding
the face of the teeth with no more effort than grinding the backs.

It's got me thinking about making some fixtures for one of my grinders
to give this a try. I also need a fixture for grinding long blades
(e.g., lawn mower, machete) in a similar manner to a surface grinder...
Would make for a productive diversion!

John



Well pics once you come up with a jig. I ruined my blade, I think I
must have dulled a few teeth and caused it to grab while resawing.
I tried an old olson (don't like them), definetly sharper, but same.
Maybe doing the gullet side would be better.

Certainly better. While it is important to back grind and deepen the
gullet, the face grins is what gives you the lasting resharpening job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmvL011DTpA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmws4hDGgg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmws4hDGgg


Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 11:34 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/22/2014 12:05 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 9:49 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/21/2014 11:25 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...

long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws

Interesting....

I kind of suspect that non-carbide bandsaw blades are not actually
sharpened after they are stamped out... so sharpening them improves
them.

If the face, rather than the back of the teeth was sharpened they could
probably be sharpened more times... up to the point where the blade is
work hardened and breaks. Sharpening the back at the angle shown in the
video decreases the clearance behind the cutting edge more and more
with
each sharpening so at some point there is basically no clearance and
they don't cut well.

I'd think that a thinner and finer grinding wheel would allow grinding
the face of the teeth with no more effort than grinding the backs.

It's got me thinking about making some fixtures for one of my grinders
to give this a try. I also need a fixture for grinding long blades
(e.g., lawn mower, machete) in a similar manner to a surface grinder...
Would make for a productive diversion!

John



Well pics once you come up with a jig. I ruined my blade, I think I
must have dulled a few teeth and caused it to grab while resawing.
I tried an old olson (don't like them), definetly sharper, but same.
Maybe doing the gullet side would be better.

Certainly better. While it is important to back grind and deepen the
gullet, the face grins is what gives you the lasting resharpening job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmvL011DTpA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmws4hDGgg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmws4hDGgg


Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being sharpened.



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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.



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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 12:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.



To expand on the extreme end being the cutting surface, yes it is but
the more of the tooth that is sharpened the more the rest of the tooth
shares the cutting load. While it seems that only the point is doing
the cutting that in fact is not true. The point is involved in all of
the cutting but more of the tooth surface past the point gets used with
the increase of feed rate. With a slower feed rate less of the tooth
surface is used.
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 1:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.


And by my 2 attempts, you can screw up a blade pretty damn good.
You have to be very precise, no rushing, no mis touches.

I am thankful my hands were away, but I did get hurt and cut by the wood
being jerked up on my end... it broke the throat plate and the blade was
wrapped into the wood. I have to resurface my cool blocks too.

--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 1:09 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/22/2014 1:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type
mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being
sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.


And by my 2 attempts, you can screw up a blade pretty damn good.
You have to be very precise, no rushing, no mis touches.


Yes.


I am thankful my hands were away, but I did get hurt and cut by the wood
being jerked up on my end... it broke the throat plate and the blade was
wrapped into the wood. I have to resurface my cool blocks too.


I have only had one blade break on my BS and oddly my wife was using it
at the time. She broke the blade while cutting cardboard removed from
the back of a note pad....




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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 12:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.



To expand on the extreme end being the cutting surface, yes it is but
the more of the tooth that is sharpened the more the rest of the tooth
shares the cutting load. While it seems that only the point is doing
the cutting that in fact is not true. The point is involved in all of
the cutting but more of the tooth surface past the point gets used with
the increase of feed rate. With a slower feed rate less of the tooth
surface is used.


I sharpen mine with a flex shaft tool using a long stone similar to
the ones you can buy to sharpen chainsaws. I never touch the back of
the tooth.

--
 GW Ross 

 If money could talk, it would say 
 goodbye. 






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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 3:24 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 12:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type
mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary
sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being
sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X
faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.



To expand on the extreme end being the cutting surface, yes it is but
the more of the tooth that is sharpened the more the rest of the tooth
shares the cutting load. While it seems that only the point is doing
the cutting that in fact is not true. The point is involved in all of
the cutting but more of the tooth surface past the point gets used with
the increase of feed rate. With a slower feed rate less of the tooth
surface is used.


I sharpen mine with a flex shaft tool using a long stone similar to the
ones you can buy to sharpen chainsaws. I never touch the back of the tooth.

Have you ever had the problem I did, where the bandsaw grabbed?
So you are using round stone, not a circular disc?


--
Jeff
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 1:13 PM, Leon wrote:

I am thankful my hands were away, but I did get hurt and cut by the wood
being jerked up on my end... it broke the throat plate and the blade was
wrapped into the wood. I have to resurface my cool blocks too.


I have only had one blade break on my BS and oddly my wife was using it
at the time. She broke the blade while cutting cardboard removed from
the back of a note pad....


There must be one helluva back story on that, Leon. g

Care to share? Like, did she wrap the cardboard around a piece of angle
iron to stabilize it first?g


What happened? Piece get carried down into the lower blocks and jam?

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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

On 3/22/2014 3:01 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 1:13 PM, Leon wrote:

I am thankful my hands were away, but I did get hurt and cut by the wood
being jerked up on my end... it broke the throat plate and the blade was
wrapped into the wood. I have to resurface my cool blocks too.


I have only had one blade break on my BS and oddly my wife was using it
at the time. She broke the blade while cutting cardboard removed from
the back of a note pad....


There must be one helluva back story on that, Leon. g

Care to share? Like, did she wrap the cardboard around a piece of angle
iron to stabilize it first?g


What happened? Piece get carried down into the lower blocks and jam?



I really really don't know what the heck she did. LOL I set her up and
let her go. Next thing I hear is the bang. You might be on to
something with the cardboard possibly tearing and getting jamed in the
lower ceramic guides.
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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dullcompared to sharpened blade

woodchucker wrote:
On 3/22/2014 3:24 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 12:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:49 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/22/2014 11:41 AM, Leon wrote:

Nice.. But I don't think I need that... Would be nice, but no room.
I would think if I did milling, it would be a no brainer.



Agreed. Unless you were sawing several hours every day these type
mills
would not be cost efficient, probably.

The guy grinding from the back side was only putting a temporary
sharp,
almost microscopic, point on the extreme end of the cutting surface.
None of the rest of the cutting surface of the hook was being
sharpened.


True but apparently you don't need all that much. The results he's
produced (before and after) were pretty damn dramatic. Almost 4X
faster
cut.

The extreme end is, pretty much, THE cutting surface. Everything else
is clearing the chips.





Yes he did sharpen the blade and he did cut more quickly. This will
however be extremely short lived. Only the extreme point of the tooth
is being pointed. The sides of the face of the tooth are still dull.

Once he dulls the almost microscopic point of each tooth he is back
where he started. He is not sharpening all of the cutting surfaces.


To expand on the extreme end being the cutting surface, yes it is but
the more of the tooth that is sharpened the more the rest of the tooth
shares the cutting load. While it seems that only the point is doing
the cutting that in fact is not true. The point is involved in all of
the cutting but more of the tooth surface past the point gets used with
the increase of feed rate. With a slower feed rate less of the tooth
surface is used.


I sharpen mine with a flex shaft tool using a long stone similar to the
ones you can buy to sharpen chainsaws. I never touch the back of the tooth.

Have you ever had the problem I did, where the bandsaw grabbed?
So you are using round stone, not a circular disc?


Never grabbed. Yes, a stone about 1/8" diameter and 1' long. It fits
into the gullet and down the underside of the tooth. Have to be
careful that it doesn't go around the tip and dull the point.

--
 GW Ross 

 If money could talk, it would say 
 goodbye. 








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Default Interesting Band Saw sharpening video.. Brand new blade is dull compared to sharpened blade

woodchucker wrote:
Pretty good vid... watched it at 2 times speed..

I ran into a problem resawing yesterday, my first piece 9" maple was
true... my second one drifted and was hard to push. I realized my blade
must have dulled after a few years. I haven't drifted off my fence for a
long time... I'm going to give this a try b4 I need the resaw again..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UygEQ-079Ws



Since he is sharpening the wrong side of the tooth I suspect that the time
spent sharpening is longer than the cutting time gained.
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