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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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![]() I was just reading this article about casing doors (not that I needed to read it of course...just because I was curious). http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2012/...-doors-part-3/ My door is about 7' high, the molding is 2" wide and 1.25" thick. My strategy was that I would fit and mark the moldings to size, cut them with a hand miter saw I have, and nail it up. Since I'm not nailing through drywall, I figured 2.5" finish nails would be appropriate. If 2" finish nails would be suitable, I happen to have those on hand (please comment). I was even planning to go through the extra effort of priming the ends, before I nailed it up. This isn't adequate for the fellow who wrote the article. He wants to tack it down, and then glue his molding using "spring clamps" which I have never seen before, and then go back and nail it down. Hell, I think I'll be wrestling the molding to the wall (as I bend around two of my drywall seems! : ) I do like his idea of using a "spacer" tool, to make the reveal perfectly uniform. I would not have thought of that, and I can improvise that. I wanted to share these words in case anyone is willing to comment on anything. I intend to go buy the molding tomorrow morning. The stuff I ripped down 3 years ago seemed ratty at the time (and was put up by someone even less ambitious than I am!) I guess that partially addresses my concerns. I suppose there are lots of ways to address most any project. Whatever I do, it will be better than it was! : ) The fellow in the article even blunted or cut off the ends of the nails to keep from splitting the wood. Is that a technique you use? To my intuition, it seems like it might make more sense for much thinner molding. Cheers, Bill |
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