I need to trim a slight bevel into the face of a 6/4x4x12 hunk of hard maple. I'm using the board for a face for the tail vise of the new bench. As it turns out, the movable jaw is a tad askew resulting in a nearly 1/4 inch gap at the top when fully closed.

My thought is to glue a 1/4x1/4 inch strip across the length of the piece along the edge of the face and then run this through the jointer until the strip disappears. Would you consider this a safe operation?

Larry

Gramp's shop wrote:
I need to trim a slight bevel into the face of a 6/4x4x12 hunk of
hard maple. I'm using the board for a face for the tail vise of the
new bench. As it turns out, the movable jaw is a tad askew resulting
in a nearly 1/4 inch gap at the top when fully closed.

My thought is to glue a 1/4x1/4 inch strip across the length of the
piece along the edge of the face and then run this through the
jointer until the strip disappears. Would you consider this a safe
operation?


Maybe I am not understanding your description the way you intended Larry,
but as I understand it, I would not consider a 1/4" gap to be a tad skewed,
over a 4" run. Is there no way to adjust the way that face lays in the
vice? From a safety standpoint, it does not seem that you'd be doing
anything unsafe. You're just jointing a bevel on the back side of the
board.

--

-Mike-

Gramp's shop wrote:
I need to trim a slight bevel into the face of a 6/4x4x12 hunk of hard maple. I'm using the board for a face for the tail vise of the new bench. As it turns out, the movable jaw is a tad askew resulting in a nearly 1/4 inch gap at the top when fully closed.

My thought is to glue a 1/4x1/4 inch strip across the length of the piece along the edge of the face and then run this through the jointer until the strip disappears. Would you consider this a safe operation?

Larry

As always, use a hold down block, otherwise it seems safe. Do a dry
run with another piece of wood to test the theory. Sounds to me like
the strip would disappear faster than the other edge, but I have never
tried it. It works on a planer with the strip side down, and I have
used that--but it sounds like the board is too short to safely run
through a planer.

--
 GW Ross 

 And now for something completely 
 different... 

I've run short pieces throught through the jointer, definitely with a proper push stick. Make thin cuts and make sure the blades are sharp.

A hand plane would be ideal for this task, if you feel unsure about using the power tool.

Sonny

On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 10:52:53 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
I've run short pieces throught through the jointer, definitely with a proper push stick. Make thin cuts and make sure the blades are sharp.



A hand plane would be ideal for this task, if you feel unsure about using the power tool.



Sonny

This is one of those occasions when I wished I had already taken the time to improve my proficiency with the plane. It's on my list.

"Gramp's shop" wrote in message
...

the movable jaw is a tad askew resulting in a nearly 1/4 inch gap at the
top when fully closed.

That's an oddity. Ordinarily the movable jaw leans inward at the top toward
the bench, so that when you tighten it the racking force will straighten it
up closer to square. I'd worry that you've got a bad casting. You might
consider returning it for another.

Tom

Thanks, Tom, but this was a CL "find".


On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 12:19:48 PM UTC-5, Tom Dacon wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote in message

...



the movable jaw is a tad askew resulting in a nearly 1/4 inch gap at the

top when fully closed.



That's an oddity. Ordinarily the movable jaw leans inward at the top toward

the bench, so that when you tighten it the racking force will straighten it

up closer to square. I'd worry that you've got a bad casting. You might

consider returning it for another.



Tom

On 7/17/2013 9:36 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
I need to trim a slight bevel into the face of a 6/4x4x12 hunk of hard maple. I'm using the board for a face for the tail vise of the new bench. As it turns out, the movable jaw is a tad askew resulting in a nearly 1/4 inch gap at the top when fully closed.

My thought is to glue a 1/4x1/4 inch strip across the length of the piece along the edge of the face and then run this through the jointer until the strip disappears. Would you consider this a safe operation?

Larry

Do more than 1/4... that way it closes, and the more pressure you apply
the more the top will grip until the bottom catches up.
That's what I did to my faces.

--
Jeff