I'm using 8/4 reclaimed cherry for my new bench. Will dominos be of sufficient strength for the M/T joints connecting the rails and stringers to the legs? For the rails, it will be easy to add bolts and the dominos would just serve as alignment guides. Not quite so easy for the stringers as the legs will be 5+ inches wide.

Larry

On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:54:52 AM UTC-7, Gramp's shop wrote:
I'm using 8/4 reclaimed cherry for my new bench. Will dominos be of sufficient strength for the M/T joints connecting the rails and stringers to the legs? For the rails, it will be easy to add bolts and the dominos would just serve as alignment guides. Not quite so easy for the stringers as the legs will be 5+ inches wide.



Larry

A floating tennon is likely 95% as strong as a typical tennon. Only issue would be on pull-out if you didn't pin both sides and I don't think a table has much\any pull-out tension at all.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:54:52 AM UTC-7, Gramp's shop wrote:
I'm using 8/4 reclaimed cherry for my new bench. Will dominos be of
sufficient strength for the M/T joints connecting the rails and
stringers to the legs? For the rails, it will be easy to add bolts and
the dominos would just serve as alignment guides. Not quite so easy for
the stringers as the legs will be 5+ inches wide.



Larry

A floating tennon is likely 95% as strong as a typical tennon. Only issue
would be on pull-out if you didn't pin both sides and I don't think a
table has much\any pull-out tension at all.

I might be concerned with racking pulling them out, especially if you will
be doing any hand planing. I would probably go with a totally through the
leg tenon. Glue 2 halves together to form the legs. Before gluing, cut
dados on both inner sides so that when you glue the halves together you
form the through mortise.

This is an instance where the larger new Domino joiner would be better
suited.

I might be concerned with racking pulling them out, especially if you will

be doing any hand planing. I would probably go with a totally through the

leg tenon. Glue 2 halves together to form the legs. Before gluing, cut

dados on both inner sides so that when you glue the halves together you

form the through mortise.


If you think it might have racking pressure then you could pin them on both sides, although I don't fully understand the geometry and if this is always possible with this design.

Leon ...

That's a great idea for creating a through-tenon. I don't envision a lot of hand planing, so I'm leaning toward using the Domino. I assume I ought to use the 10mm tenons, oui? (another trip to Woodcraft for cutter and tenons)

Larry

On Monday, June 24, 2013 4:31:01 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:54:52 AM UTC-7, Gramp's shop wrote:

I'm using 8/4 reclaimed cherry for my new bench. Will dominos be of

sufficient strength for the M/T joints connecting the rails and

stringers to the legs? For the rails, it will be easy to add bolts and

the dominos would just serve as alignment guides. Not quite so easy for

the stringers as the legs will be 5+ inches wide.







Larry



A floating tennon is likely 95% as strong as a typical tennon. Only issue

would be on pull-out if you didn't pin both sides and I don't think a

table has much\any pull-out tension at all.



I might be concerned with racking pulling them out, especially if you will

be doing any hand planing. I would probably go with a totally through the

leg tenon. Glue 2 halves together to form the legs. Before gluing, cut

dados on both inner sides so that when you glue the halves together you

form the through mortise.



This is an instance where the larger new Domino joiner would be better

suited.

On 6/24/2013 5:52 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I might be concerned with racking pulling them out, especially if you will

be doing any hand planing. I would probably go with a totally through the

leg tenon. Glue 2 halves together to form the legs. Before gluing, cut

dados on both inner sides so that when you glue the halves together you

form the through mortise.


If you think it might have racking pressure then you could pin them on both sides, although I don't fully understand the geometry and if this is always possible with this design.



Well pinning would help but the Small Domino joiner can only accommodate
a mortise about 25mm deep. The longest tenons are 50mm. so I doubt
that pinning would help much as the leg would likely split out at the
pin. IIRC the newer larger Domino will cut 4" deep.

On 6/24/2013 6:22 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
Leon ...

That's a great idea for creating a through-tenon. I don't envision a lot of hand planing, so I'm leaning toward using the Domino. I assume I ought to use the 10mm tenons, oui? (another trip to Woodcraft for cutter and tenons)

Larry



I would try for 4 tenons in each joint.

And concerning the through tenon method, if you ever use it, be sure to
remember to place a test block the size of the mortise,"WRAPPED IN WAXED
PAPER" in that mortise when you glue it up. It helps align the halves
and helps to keep excess glue out of the joint.

AND YOU WANT TO BE SURE THAT YOU CAN REMOVE IT BEFORE THE GLUE SETS!


And one more suggestion, should the joint ever loosen you could drill a
3/4" through hole in the apron/stretcher near the joint and glue a 3/4"
dowel in that hole. Send a lag screw through the leg into the end of
the apron/stretcher and into the dowel. Predrill of course.

On 6/24/2013 10:54 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
I'm using 8/4 reclaimed cherry for my new bench. Will dominos be of sufficient strength for the M/T joints connecting the rails and stringers to the legs? For the rails, it will be easy to add bolts and the dominos would just serve as alignment guides. Not quite so easy for the stringers as the legs will be 5+ inches wide.

Larry


My bench is a slightly modified version of one the benches in Scott
Landis' book: The Workbench Book. Unfortunately, my copy has wandered
off somewhere but it's still listed on Amazon. It features 4x4 legs and
2x4 stringers. Joinery is through tenons, wedged plus glue. The top is
2x4s glued together in the 4" side. Threaded rods (4) through the top
complete the ensemble.

This jewel adds new meaning to the word "sturdy". I have set a small
block Chevvy on it for some assembly prior to the engine stand. How
about 3 guys assembling 4" by 5' HVAC tubing (took a lot of grunting and
many bad words). Anyway you get the idea. It's getting along in years
and if I was still doing lots of wooddorking, I would remove the top
(bolted to two stringers between the legs) and take it somewhere that
had a large planer or drum sander and get it evened out. The way it is,
I have a couple of pieces of 1/8" hardboard that I lay on top of the bench.

Anyway have fun with your project. Build it to last a thousand years.
mahalo,
jo4hn

Thanks, Jo4hn. I'm building this for me, my son, my granddaughter (now 4) and those that come after her.

My bench is a slightly modified version of one the benches in Scott

Landis' book: The Workbench Book. Unfortunately, my copy has wandered

off somewhere but it's still listed on Amazon. It features 4x4 legs and

2x4 stringers. Joinery is through tenons, wedged plus glue. The top is

2x4s glued together in the 4" side. Threaded rods (4) through the top

complete the ensemble.



This jewel adds new meaning to the word "sturdy". I have set a small

block Chevvy on it for some assembly prior to the engine stand. How

about 3 guys assembling 4" by 5' HVAC tubing (took a lot of grunting and

many bad words). Anyway you get the idea. It's getting along in years

and if I was still doing lots of wooddorking, I would remove the top

(bolted to two stringers between the legs) and take it somewhere that

had a large planer or drum sander and get it evened out. The way it is,

I have a couple of pieces of 1/8" hardboard that I lay on top of the bench.



Anyway have fun with your project. Build it to last a thousand years.

mahalo,

jo4hn