I started with set of "new" Blue Marples gouges, that have been used
until dull.

I sprayed an adequate amount (probably more than necessary) of 3m Super
77 adhesive
onto my 9"x12" granite block, and I basically attached about a 2" wide
strip of each of 220, 400, 600 and 800 grit silicon carbide wet and dry
around the perimeter using a j-roller. I have finer grits, but I was
told "up to 800" would do the job, and a 9"x12"x2" granite block isn't
all that big (it's darn heavy though!) I observed that the paper really
needs to be on the perimeter of the block, to adequately sand the backs,
so options are limited.

Starting with the 1/4" gouge, I did the *back* on all 4 grits using a
circular motion. I "wisked" the sandpaper with a brush in between grits
at least (to keep it "clean").

Then starting back with the 220 grit, I carefully ground the bevel side.
I used a couple fingers over the bevel to apply uniform force as I
ground/pulled it. Then I did the back on the 220. Next I proceded to
the 400 and did both of these steps again--ditto on the 600 and 800.
And for good measure, I ran both sides across my honing strop (both sides).

The 1/4" gouge was sharp--cuts hair, and cuts end-grain. That was my
"benchmark" test. I tried my gouges on end grain before and after being
sharpened.

Then I repeated the same operations to my 3/8" gouge, also getting
pretty good results.

I was concerned my paper may have been worn out at that point (I
compared it to nice fresh sandpaper), but I gave it a "bath" and it
seemed to recover a little, maybe. It definitely had some smoothe spots.

I sharpened my 1/2" gouge the same as the other too. I don't think I
ground all of the major scratches out of the bevel, but it was sharp
after I was done. I think my 220 grit was too worn.
------------

Almost 2 hours elapsed since I started. I pulled the paper off of the
granite, and the glue was still plenty sticky. Directions online said to
use a razor blade next, but glue was too sticky/messy. First I used
acetone on a paper towel, and then (upgraded to using it) on a rag,
trying to avoid breathing the vapors.

Is it true, that the paper will only last for 2 small gouges? On my
next try I was thinking of trying water instead of glue, and beginning
with 120 grit.

I can see that my other larger gouges, which I haven't used yet are
"rough" (at least I know the difference now!) I will work on them next,
before I move on to some planes.

Please feel free to validate or criticise my approach--that's why I
posted it! I have more sharpening ahead of me.

Cheers,
Bill

Bill wrote:


Is it true, that the paper will only last for 2 small gouges? On my
next try I was thinking of trying water instead of glue, and beginning
with 120 grit.

That all depends on how much you have to grind on each grit. I guess it
makes enough sense in my mind that you'd get about that much out of a sheet.
Not getting what you mean by using water instead of glue.


I can see that my other larger gouges, which I haven't used yet are
"rough" (at least I know the difference now!) I will work on them
next, before I move on to some planes.

Yeah - you'll quickly see how crude factory surfaces are after you polish
something up this way. Pretty cool - huh?


Please feel free to validate or criticise my approach--that's why I
posted it! I have more sharpening ahead of me.


Validated. Isn't it great to have a sharp tool in your hand?

--

-Mike-

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:55:15 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
I started with set of "new" Blue Marples gouges, ------------ Almost 2 hours elapsed since I started.

I'm sure there are slight differences in each our techniques. As long as your blades become sharp, then not much can be said. The larger/wider the blade, the more time is needed to straighten, sharpen and/or hone an edge at each stage. Sometimes, I'm impatient and assume/expect to get sharp results of the larger/wider blades after spending the same time as with a smaller blade, usually when I'm in a rush, if I need the tool at the moment.

Having a few jigs not only assists with sharpening, but helps speed the process, in my case, specifically the jigs I've made for the jointer and planer blades.

Often, on rainy or lazy days, I'll gather the tools that need sharpening and work on them for half a day or more. Dedicating time for that maintenance is random, for me, unlike some other more (somewhat) regularly scheduled maintenance tasks.

Sonny

On Sun, 12 May 2013 03:55:15 -0400, Bill wrote:

I started with set of "new" Blue Marples gouges, that have been used
until dull.

I sprayed an adequate amount (probably more than necessary) of 3m Super
77 adhesive onto my 9"x12" granite block, and I basically attached about
a 2" wide strip of each of 220, 400, 600 and 800 grit silicon carbide
wet and dry around the perimeter using a j-roller. I have finer grits,
but I was told "up to 800" would do the job, and a 9"x12"x2" granite
block isn't all that big (it's darn heavy though!) I observed that the
paper really needs to be on the perimeter of the block, to adequately
sand the backs, so options are limited.

Starting with the 1/4" gouge, I did the *back* on all 4 grits using a
circular motion. I "wisked" the sandpaper with a brush in between grits
at least (to keep it "clean").

Then starting back with the 220 grit, I carefully ground the bevel side.
I used a couple fingers over the bevel to apply uniform force as I
ground/pulled it. Then I did the back on the 220. Next I proceded to
the 400 and did both of these steps again--ditto on the 600 and 800.
And for good measure, I ran both sides across my honing strop (both
sides).

The 1/4" gouge was sharp--cuts hair, and cuts end-grain. That was my
"benchmark" test. I tried my gouges on end grain before and after being
sharpened.

Then I repeated the same operations to my 3/8" gouge, also getting
pretty good results.

I was concerned my paper may have been worn out at that point (I
compared it to nice fresh sandpaper), but I gave it a "bath" and it
seemed to recover a little, maybe. It definitely had some smoothe
spots.

I sharpened my 1/2" gouge the same as the other too. I don't think I
ground all of the major scratches out of the bevel, but it was sharp
after I was done. I think my 220 grit was too worn.
------------

Almost 2 hours elapsed since I started. I pulled the paper off of the
granite, and the glue was still plenty sticky. Directions online said to
use a razor blade next, but glue was too sticky/messy. First I used
acetone on a paper towel, and then (upgraded to using it) on a rag,
trying to avoid breathing the vapors.

Is it true, that the paper will only last for 2 small gouges? On my
next try I was thinking of trying water instead of glue, and beginning
with 120 grit.

I can see that my other larger gouges, which I haven't used yet are
"rough" (at least I know the difference now!) I will work on them next,
before I move on to some planes.

Please feel free to validate or criticise my approach--that's why I
posted it! I have more sharpening ahead of me.

Cheers,
Bill

I use water to stick down the paper and water as a cutting fluid on the
surface of the paper as I sharpen, the paper will last longer than using
it dry, this is messy while sharpening but cleanup is nothing more than
wiping up with a rag.

Due to their small size, I can see carving gouges being harder on the
abrasives.

I use marble floor tiles for the surface, one for each grit, as long as
the tool is wiped between grits there is no danger of contaminating
the finer finer grits. Granite is better, marble is never absolutely
flat where it has veining and if heavily veined will fall apart if kept
wet for extended periods, it was just what I had on hand and never
bothered to use anything else.

None of this is critical of your way, just the way I do it.

basilisk

On 5/12/2013 3:55 AM, Bill wrote:

I started with set of "new" Blue Marples gouges, that have been used
until dull.

I sprayed an adequate amount (probably more than necessary) of 3m Super
77 adhesive
onto my 9"x12" granite block, and I basically attached about a 2" wide
strip of each of 220, 400, 600 and 800 grit silicon carbide wet and dry
around the perimeter using a j-roller. I have finer grits, but I was
told "up to 800" would do the job, and a 9"x12"x2" granite block isn't
all that big (it's darn heavy though!) I observed that the paper really
needs to be on the perimeter of the block, to adequately sand the backs,
so options are limited.

Starting with the 1/4" gouge, I did the *back* on all 4 grits using a
circular motion. I "wisked" the sandpaper with a brush in between grits
at least (to keep it "clean").

Then starting back with the 220 grit, I carefully ground the bevel side.
I used a couple fingers over the bevel to apply uniform force as I
ground/pulled it. Then I did the back on the 220. Next I proceded to
the 400 and did both of these steps again--ditto on the 600 and 800. And
for good measure, I ran both sides across my honing strop (both sides).

The 1/4" gouge was sharp--cuts hair, and cuts end-grain. That was my
"benchmark" test. I tried my gouges on end grain before and after being
sharpened.

Then I repeated the same operations to my 3/8" gouge, also getting
pretty good results.

I was concerned my paper may have been worn out at that point (I
compared it to nice fresh sandpaper), but I gave it a "bath" and it
seemed to recover a little, maybe. It definitely had some smoothe spots.

I sharpened my 1/2" gouge the same as the other too. I don't think I
ground all of the major scratches out of the bevel, but it was sharp
after I was done. I think my 220 grit was too worn.
------------

Almost 2 hours elapsed since I started. I pulled the paper off of the
granite, and the glue was still plenty sticky. Directions online said to
use a razor blade next, but glue was too sticky/messy. First I used
acetone on a paper towel, and then (upgraded to using it) on a rag,
trying to avoid breathing the vapors.

Is it true, that the paper will only last for 2 small gouges? On my
next try I was thinking of trying water instead of glue, and beginning
with 120 grit.

I can see that my other larger gouges, which I haven't used yet are
"rough" (at least I know the difference now!) I will work on them next,
before I move on to some planes.

Please feel free to validate or criticise my approach--that's why I
posted it! I have more sharpening ahead of me.

Cheers,
Bill




Preparing new chisels/gouges will wear paper faster than a chisel that
just needs a new edge.

I love the smell of acetone... try mineral spirits for 3M 77 next time,
that is the proper solvent.

once your chisels/gouges are prepared water will hold the paper down
fine. For keeping the paper clean try a drop of detergent in the water
sprayer. It breaks surface tension and lets the slurry wash away more
easily w/o clogging... but if it gets under the paper the paper will move...

I think you can go higher than 800, I would think a strop for you gouges
would help you get higher, and yes you will notice a difference.

just create a small micro bevel (even on gouges) very slight so you have
meat behind the edge to support it.
--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 5/12/2013 3:55 AM, Bill wrote:

I started with set of "new" Blue Marples gouges, that have been used
until dull.
...
I have more sharpening ahead of me.

Cheers,
Bill




Preparing new chisels/gouges will wear paper faster than a chisel that
just needs a new edge.

I love the smell of acetone... try mineral spirits for 3M 77 next
time, that is the proper solvent.

once your chisels/gouges are prepared water will hold the paper down
fine.


Thank you for all of the suggestions folks! I've written down 4 or 5
which will surely
help me improve my technique (and if I don't have to open the Acetone
can again, that will be fine with me!)

At least my first efforts were mostly satisfying. I can't say that about
my experience trying to sharpen a drill bit back
in the 8th grade...it just kept getting shorter and shorter! That
experience must be the source of my sharpening nightmares... ; )

Bill