On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 13:11:57 -0500, Leon wrote:

I have power to the SawStop now and thought I would test the smoothness.

After multiple tries I finally stood a quarter, not a nickel,on it's
edge on the table top. To be on the side of caution I placed the
quarter opposite the miter slot from the blade in the event the quarter
decided to roll in towards the blade... That was unnecessary.

A 3 meg .mov file posted on ABPW. I don't know how else to show this
other than to email it to you if you would like to see this exciting
movie adventure.

STARING the SawStop, me and my quarter.

Leon, I appreciate you posting the details of your Sawstop,

I am going to upgrade later in the year and had already decided
on the Sawstop, just not which model.

Right now I'm using a 1951 delta contractors saw that has had a motor
upgrade but still has the original bump and hope fence.
The move to a Sawstop would be a giant leap for me.

I would like to hear feed back on the Sawstops fence rigidity and
repeatability, after you have ran it awhile.

basilisk

On 4/28/2013 10:49 AM, basilisk wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 13:11:57 -0500, Leon wrote:

I have power to the SawStop now and thought I would test the smoothness.

After multiple tries I finally stood a quarter, not a nickel,on it's
edge on the table top. To be on the side of caution I placed the
quarter opposite the miter slot from the blade in the event the quarter
decided to roll in towards the blade... That was unnecessary.

A 3 meg .mov file posted on ABPW. I don't know how else to show this
other than to email it to you if you would like to see this exciting
movie adventure.

STARING the SawStop, me and my quarter.

Leon, I appreciate you posting the details of your Sawstop,

I am going to upgrade later in the year and had already decided
on the Sawstop, just not which model.

Right now I'm using a 1951 delta contractors saw that has had a motor
upgrade but still has the original bump and hope fence.
The move to a Sawstop would be a giant leap for me.

I would like to hear feed back on the Sawstops fence rigidity and
repeatability, after you have ran it awhile.

basilisk



Well thank you! I appreciate your expressing your appreciation. It has
been a lot of fun and work.

A point to ponder..

For me personally I wanted the additional safety, first and foremost.
That was the single reason for upgrading. I had a Jet cabinet saw that
I was perfectly happy with and really did buy it with the intention of
it being my last table saw purchase.

To get that upgrade in safety I knew that it would be expensive.
Ultimately I would be spending a lot of money for a feature that I hoped
I would never need. I am fortunate in that I can afford this expense
and to additionally afford some extras that I will be able to use and
appreciate on a daily basis.

Coming from a contractors saw, which does not have the t-square Bies
style fence, I am sure you will be delighted with the Professional
version of the SawStop. It is a true cabinet saw and is available with
a 3hp motor and the t-square type fence. Having previously had a
cabinet saw, I felt that the Professional version would have been a
lateral move for me, discounting the safety features. So I opted to go
with the heavier and larger Industrial version of the SawStop.

First impression of the SawStop t-square "T Glide" fence is that, other
than color, it is a very close copy of the Biesemeyer fence. It too
uses a laminate covered Baltic Birch type material for the faces of the
fence.

I am not sure what experience you have with this style fence but my
impression is that they all are so simple that they are virtually fool
proof and extremely easy to readjust should that ever need to be redone.
The only finicky part when mounting the fence system on the saw is
that you insure that the front and back "L" angle rails be bolted on as
close to parallel to the table top as possible. Actually I eye balled
that adjustment and that is good enough. The purpose to being parallel
to the table top is so that the fence will not be too high or too low to
the table surface from one of the saw to the other.
All adjustments for calibration should take you about 10 minutes if you
are anal about it. ;~)

I adjusted my fence for it to be parallel to the blade and used my
finger to feel the fence in relation to the miter slot.

Now you will need a ruler for the next step, adjusting the cursor to the
front rail rule. I set the fence to 2" made a cut, measured the result
with a caliper and adjusted the cursor to offset that amount. Next test
cut resulted in being within .007" of being what I was looking for.
That is plenty good enough.

I am certain that I will have no accuracy issues but If I do rest
assured I'll bring them up.

These type fences are rigid and easily repeatable to say 1/128". I used
the right side of my Jet t-square style fence as an adjustable stop for
panels that I used to cut biscuit slots and now cut mortises for
domino's. Accuracy has not ever been an issue.

When the time comes feel free to ask more If you need any insider
information.


Hope this helps.

You know, it just dawned on me that I neglected my obligation to you as
a friend and fellow woodworking upon hearing your news and seeing those
pictures. I apologize and hope you will allow me the opportunity to
rectify that oversight now....

You suck and I hate you.

:-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
You know, it just dawned on me that I neglected my obligation to you as
a friend and fellow woodworking upon hearing your news and seeing those
pictures. I apologize and hope you will allow me the opportunity to
rectify that oversight now....

You suck and I hate you.

:-)


+1

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Apr 28, 11:15*pm, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
You know, it just dawned on me that I neglected my obligation to you as
a friend and fellow woodworking upon hearing your news and seeing those
pictures. *I apologize and hope you will allow me the opportunity to
rectify that oversight now....

You suck and I hate you.

:-)

+1

+2

You know, I put a whole dollar on edge once on one of my saws and no
one seemed a bit impressed. A buck! Think how much thinner tat is
than a quarter...

Oh well...

Nice stuff, Leon. Can't wait to get back the reports after the first
priject is underway.

Robert

On 4/28/2013 1:12 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
You know, it just dawned on me that I neglected my obligation to you as
a friend and fellow woodworking upon hearing your news and seeing those
pictures. I apologize and hope you will allow me the opportunity to
rectify that oversight now....

You suck and I hate you.

:-)



;~) Better late than never!

Looks like Houston got hit pretty good.

How did you folks fare?

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Looks like Houston got hit pretty good.

How did you folks fare?

Lew

Typical flash flooding in the streets. Some areas got 5~7 inches in fewer
hours.. Swingman's street flooded but that is not unusual and his house
sets considerably higher than the street, by design. He is in side the
Loop. I am out side the loop about 20 miles west, got 2.5" over 5 hours
and hardly saw any water in the streets at all.

"Leon" wrote:


Typical flash flooding in the streets. Some areas got 5~7 inches in
fewer
hours.. Swingman's street flooded but that is not unusual and his
house
sets considerably higher than the street, by design. He is in side
the
Loop. I am out side the loop about 20 miles west, got 2.5" over 5
hours
and hardly saw any water in the streets at all.

--------------------------------------------------------------
No harm, no foul.

Glad to see damage was limited.

To bad, but it appears about the only good thing that happens
in urban areas is that heavy rainfall clears the streets before
finding the drains.

If some type system existed to capture heavy rains and send them
back to the aquifer, it would eliminate a lot of water rights fights.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...

Looks like Houston got hit pretty good.

How did you folks fare?

Lew
Rain??? what is that? South central Colorado. Canon city. WW

On 4/29/2013 12:13 PM, WW wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...

Looks like Houston got hit pretty good.

How did you folks fare?

Lew
Rain??? what is that? South central Colorado. Canon city. WW



Rain is what is at the bottom of your deep trench. :~)

"WW" wrote in message ...

Rain??? what is that? South central Colorado. Canon city. WW

I know it rained there July 11, 2011... got wet while riding my bicycle
through there with my son on our trip from La Junta, CO to Pasco, WA....
Judging by what I saw of that area I'd think days like that would be
memorable.... it was clearly VERY dry there normally!


John

On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:05:02 -0500, Leon wrote:

On 4/28/2013 10:49 AM, basilisk wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 13:11:57 -0500, Leon wrote:

I have power to the SawStop now and thought I would test the
smoothness.

After multiple tries I finally stood a quarter, not a nickel,on it's
edge on the table top. To be on the side of caution I placed the
quarter opposite the miter slot from the blade in the event the
quarter decided to roll in towards the blade... That was unnecessary.

A 3 meg .mov file posted on ABPW. I don't know how else to show this
other than to email it to you if you would like to see this exciting
movie adventure.

STARING the SawStop, me and my quarter.

Leon, I appreciate you posting the details of your Sawstop,

I am going to upgrade later in the year and had already decided on the
Sawstop, just not which model.

Right now I'm using a 1951 delta contractors saw that has had a motor
upgrade but still has the original bump and hope fence.
The move to a Sawstop would be a giant leap for me.

I would like to hear feed back on the Sawstops fence rigidity and
repeatability, after you have ran it awhile.

basilisk



Well thank you! I appreciate your expressing your appreciation. It has
been a lot of fun and work.

A point to ponder..

For me personally I wanted the additional safety, first and foremost.
That was the single reason for upgrading. I had a Jet cabinet saw that
I was perfectly happy with and really did buy it with the intention of
it being my last table saw purchase.

Safety is my motivation as well, I have worked since 1984 in various
woodworking industries and I still have all ten, I hope to keep it that
way. It would be a shame to spend all those years in industry and lose
a bunch of fingers at home in my waning years.

To get that upgrade in safety I knew that it would be expensive.
Ultimately I would be spending a lot of money for a feature that I hoped
I would never need. I am fortunate in that I can afford this expense
and to additionally afford some extras that I will be able to use and
appreciate on a daily basis.

Coming from a contractors saw, which does not have the t-square Bies
style fence, I am sure you will be delighted with the Professional
version of the SawStop. It is a true cabinet saw and is available with
a 3hp motor and the t-square type fence. Having previously had a
cabinet saw, I felt that the Professional version would have been a
lateral move for me, discounting the safety features. So I opted to go
with the heavier and larger Industrial version of the SawStop.

First impression of the SawStop t-square "T Glide" fence is that, other
than color, it is a very close copy of the Biesemeyer fence. It too
uses a laminate covered Baltic Birch type material for the faces of the
fence.

I am not sure what experience you have with this style fence but my
impression is that they all are so simple that they are virtually fool
proof and extremely easy to readjust should that ever need to be redone.
The only finicky part when mounting the fence system on the saw is
that you insure that the front and back "L" angle rails be bolted on as
close to parallel to the table top as possible. Actually I eye balled
that adjustment and that is good enough. The purpose to being parallel
to the table top is so that the fence will not be too high or too low to
the table surface from one of the saw to the other.
All adjustments for calibration should take you about 10 minutes if you
are anal about it. ;~)

I have used others T-fence saws, but not long enough to develope
confidence in their accuracy, this is just a experience thing and will
cure itself.

I adjusted my fence for it to be parallel to the blade and used my
finger to feel the fence in relation to the miter slot.

Now you will need a ruler for the next step, adjusting the cursor to the
front rail rule. I set the fence to 2" made a cut, measured the result
with a caliper and adjusted the cursor to offset that amount. Next test
cut resulted in being within .007" of being what I was looking for. That
is plenty good enough.

Absolutely

I am certain that I will have no accuracy issues but If I do rest
assured I'll bring them up.

These type fences are rigid and easily repeatable to say 1/128". I used
the right side of my Jet t-square style fence as an adjustable stop for
panels that I used to cut biscuit slots and now cut mortises for
domino's. Accuracy has not ever been an issue.

When the time comes feel free to ask more If you need any insider
information.


Hope this helps.

Very much, Thanks

basilisk

I would like to hear feed back on the Sawstops fence rigidity and

repeatability, after you have ran it awhile.



basilisk

Set it and forget it.

I dialed mine into just a few thousandths of perfect. I never noticed any problem. Checked it once lately after more than a year and was still pretty much where I left it. I am very careful with it but I have a cabinet maker using it too and he jambs all kinds of big stuff through it.