anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

As many times custom or replacement decorate sticks that are put in
corners of homes and woodwork ...

Multi-pass cuts. Find several or more cutters working at different
heights - to cut the profile.

It is a pain for a single, but when cutting a number it is 5 of these
then change the cutter....

Martin

On 4/18/2013 12:34 PM, wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

On Thu, 18 Apr 2013 13:34:32 -0400, wrote:

anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

Place the cut end of the flooring at the start of the row and/or the
end of the row. There should be no need to have the profile at both
ends of the first or last piece.

On 4/18/2013 12:34 PM, wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

What about

a) miter so can just butt, or

b) use a solid accent block at corner and butt against it both directions?

NB: I've seen the stuff in the store but have never laid anything
except miles of solid T&G so haven't ever worked with the stuff to know
what works well...have done both of the above on solids; don't see why
couldn't work w/ the engineered stuff, too.

--

On Thu, 18 Apr 2013 15:58:32 -0500, Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Thu, 18 Apr 2013 13:34:32 -0400, wrote:

anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

Place the cut end of the flooring at the start of the row and/or the
end of the row. There should be no need to have the profile at both
ends of the first or last piece.
You don't understand the install. the boards in one room run "north
and south", with the last board in the middle of an 8 foot arch into
the second room where the boards will run "east and west" -with the
lips on the end of the eas-west boards fitting into the coresponding
lip on the edge of the north south board. Being single length boards
some need to be cut to stagger the joints at the other end. Using a
"transition" piece is out of the question, as is running all of the
boards "North and south" or all of them "east and west" as both rooms
are rather long and narrow.

Looks like I may need to use a biscuit joiner as recommended on
another group

On Thu, 18 Apr 2013 16:20:02 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 4/18/2013 12:34 PM, wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

What about

a) miter so can just butt, or

b) use a solid accent block at corner and butt against it both directions?

NB: I've seen the stuff in the store but have never laid anything
except miles of solid T&G so haven't ever worked with the stuff to know
what works well...have done both of the above on solids; don't see why
couldn't work w/ the engineered stuff, too.


As noted in another post - it is a T, not an L, so no miter, and
nosquare block - and this is not "engineered hardwood" it is solid
stranded bamboo.

wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

Do you really need a profile? I've little experience with that type of
flooring but wouldn't a simple butt suffice? The planks at the side should
be plenty to keep it in place. Taper the crosscuts slightly toward bottom
and the show side should wind up as tight as...well, you know

If you gotta have a profile, how about T & G?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Fri, 19 Apr 2013 11:47:26 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

Do you really need a profile? I've little experience with that type of
flooring but wouldn't a simple butt suffice? The planks at the side should
be plenty to keep it in place. Taper the crosscuts slightly toward bottom
and the show side should wind up as tight as...well, you know

If you gotta have a profile, how about T & G?
Looking at T&G now - but need to either glue or nail - instead of
floating a click. And I don't think you understand the setup. 12X20
room with boards running long way - with 9X14 room off the side,
joined by an 8 foot arch and no door - with the boards running the
long way as well - which is right angles to the big room. 8 feet of
board ends meeting the long edge of another board. Without some kind
of "profile" there is nothing to prevent the boards shifting up and
down at the end.

wrote:
On Fri, 19 Apr 2013 11:47:26 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of
engineered hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to
have the full clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where
I need to stagger lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter
peices. Is there a router bit that would do the job????

Do you really need a profile? I've little experience with that type
of flooring but wouldn't a simple butt suffice? The planks at the
side should be plenty to keep it in place. Taper the crosscuts
slightly toward bottom and the show side should wind up as tight
as...well, you know

If you gotta have a profile, how about T & G?
Looking at T&G now - but need to either glue or nail - instead of
floating a click. And I don't think you understand the setup. 12X20
room with boards running long way - with 9X14 room off the side,
joined by an 8 foot arch and no door - with the boards running the
long way as well - which is right angles to the big room. 8 feet of
board ends meeting the long edge of another board. Without some kind
of "profile" there is nothing to prevent the boards shifting up and
down at the end.

So the problem is where the cut ends of the big room meet the long sides in
the other room, right?

Mulling thoughts...

1. The T & G one

2. Half laps, long side over cut end side.

3. T molding threshold (best looking IMO)

Why would you have to glue or nail T & G? One is going to hold the other
down. Nothing wrong with doing so AFAIK, a bead of liquid nails would
stick'em down real good.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sat, 20 Apr 2013 05:34:02 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
On Fri, 19 Apr 2013 11:47:26 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of
engineered hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to
have the full clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where
I need to stagger lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter
peices. Is there a router bit that would do the job????

Do you really need a profile? I've little experience with that type
of flooring but wouldn't a simple butt suffice? The planks at the
side should be plenty to keep it in place. Taper the crosscuts
slightly toward bottom and the show side should wind up as tight
as...well, you know

If you gotta have a profile, how about T & G?
Looking at T&G now - but need to either glue or nail - instead of
floating a click. And I don't think you understand the setup. 12X20
room with boards running long way - with 9X14 room off the side,
joined by an 8 foot arch and no door - with the boards running the
long way as well - which is right angles to the big room. 8 feet of
board ends meeting the long edge of another board. Without some kind
of "profile" there is nothing to prevent the boards shifting up and
down at the end.

So the problem is where the cut ends of the big room meet the long sides in
the other room, right?


Actually the other way, but yes, you have the idea
Mulling thoughts...

1. The T & G one

2. Half laps, long side over cut end side.

3. T molding threshold (best looking IMO)

The "T" moulding stands proud, and being the 2 rooms basically blend
as one, both my wife and I find that the least acceptable "solution"
And they don't make 1 piece long enough. About 3 inches short

Why would you have to glue or nail T & G? One is going to hold the other
down. Nothing wrong with doing so AFAIK, a bead of liquid nails would
stick'em down real good.
The manufacturer specifies nail or glue for T&G. What would prevent
the joints from opening otherwize? T&G does not lock, and unrestrained
wood moves around.. If I just put a T&G on the ends and edge of the
click material at that transition, yes, Liwuid Nails would likely do
the job (glue).

wrote:
anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered
hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full
clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger
lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a
router bit that would do the job????

If it were me ...

I'd orient the planks long-wise to match the longest dimension of the room
that is normally entered first. I would then continue this orientation to
the second room, irrespective of the second room's dimensions. Else you run
the risk of having visitors believe the installer was drunk (or possibly
insane).

Having the planks align with the long dimension of a room is only a
GUIDELINE; in your case, violating the rule would seem appropriate.

As an alternative, separate the two rooms by a visual disconnect. Perhaps a
6" plank of marble or ceramic tile.