This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

On 4/3/13 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/


Ridiculous! Exception work, very impressed.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 4/3/2013 11:04 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/3/13 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/


Ridiculous! Exception work, very impressed.




Thank you! Re-dick'l'us? LOL

On 4/3/2013 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Spectacularly taking the genre up a dozen more notches!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 4/3/2013 11:15 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/3/2013 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Spectacularly taking the genre up a dozen more notches!

Thank you again!

Missing the thought of breakfast at Taciria Chiwawa. LOL

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under
the desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close
and cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is
34" deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has
another 3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs
of rails behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created
from the door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame
rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the
boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Beautiful!! Now I found the Rockler lumber section and saw 1/4"woods
there!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 4/3/2013 11:23 AM, Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under
the desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close
and cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is
34" deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has
another 3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs
of rails behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created
from the door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame
rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the
boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Beautiful!! Now I found the Rockler lumber section and saw 1/4"woods
there!!


Drive-by warning...

First off Thank you!

I resawed 4/4 s4s on my Laguna BS with a 1.25" Resaw King blade and then
did a touch up at the drum sander to bring the final thickness to .25".

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 4/3/2013 11:23 AM, Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need
to address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support
under the desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and
UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and
put LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type
lighting along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be
too close and cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the
office. The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk
top is 34" deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of
each desk drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front,
it has another 3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3
more pairs of rails behind that. And I am especially happy with the
ark created from the door top rails that integrate with the cubby
top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used
the Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the
boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Beautiful!! Now I found the Rockler lumber section and saw 1/4"woods
there!!


Drive-by warning...

First off Thank you!

I resawed 4/4 s4s on my Laguna BS with a 1.25" Resaw King blade and
then did a touch up at the drum sander to bring the final thickness to
.25".

At first I was going to ask you how you got the 1/4" oak, but just for
kicks googled 1/4" oak, and ended up at Rocklers (which gets too much of
my money already).

Since I don't have a really good bandsaw, I must ask which Laguna you
have, but I'm pretty sure my hobbyist needs won't warrant the investment.
Nevertheless, what Laguna bandsaw do you have?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in


.25".

At first I was going to ask you how you got the 1/4" oak, but just for
kicks googled 1/4" oak, and ended up at Rocklers (which gets too much of
my money already).

Since I don't have a really good bandsaw, I must ask which Laguna you
have, but I'm pretty sure my hobbyist needs won't warrant the investment.
Nevertheless, what Laguna bandsaw do you have?

The expensive one. :-). Seriously., I has a Craftsman for many years and
avoided using it because it had to be set up every time I used it.
Replaced it with an 18" Rikon and still was not happy. I was especially
not happy with the roller guides on the Rikon. While roller guides seem to
make perfect sense they ended up being noisy and vibrated when dirty. Then
I saw the Laguna and it's 10 point ceramic guides and I have been very
happy with the saw.

It is the LT 16 HD with the 4.5 hp Baldor motor. There are much les
expensive models available.


http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/bandsaw-lt16hd#

Leon wrote in
:

Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in


.25".

At first I was going to ask you how you got the 1/4" oak, but just
for kicks googled 1/4" oak, and ended up at Rocklers (which gets too
much of my money already).

Since I don't have a really good bandsaw, I must ask which Laguna you
have, but I'm pretty sure my hobbyist needs won't warrant the
investment. Nevertheless, what Laguna bandsaw do you have?

The expensive one. :-). Seriously., I has a Craftsman for many years
and avoided using it because it had to be set up every time I used it.
Replaced it with an 18" Rikon and still was not happy. I was
especially not happy with the roller guides on the Rikon. While roller
guides seem to make perfect sense they ended up being noisy and
vibrated when dirty. Then I saw the Laguna and it's 10 point ceramic
guides and I have been very happy with the saw.

It is the LT 16 HD with the 4.5 hp Baldor motor. There are much les
expensive models available.

http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/bandsaw-lt16hd#

I'm sure it makes sense for you, but those are Festool prices!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 7:58:06 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn

big" furniture.



Great design and great execution. Remind, what is the finish?

On 4/3/2013 11:25 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 7:58:06 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn

big" furniture.



Great design and great execution. Remind, what is the finish?



Thank you!

I used Old Masters Gel varnish, applied with a folded Scotts blue shop
paper towel and excess wiped with the same. 3 coats.

http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 10:02:55 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 4/3/2013 11:25 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 7:58:06 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn



big" furniture.







Great design and great execution. Remind, what is the finish?







Thank you!



I used Old Masters Gel varnish, applied with a folded Scotts blue shop

paper towel and excess wiped with the same. 3 coats.



http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

Never seen this brand it before. Looks good on the desk. I use wiping poly on heavy wear items like desk tops. Maybe I'll try gel varnish next time. I have used gel stain and liked it.

On 4/3/2013 1:19 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

Never seen this brand it before. Looks good on the desk. I use wiping poly on heavy wear items like desk tops. Maybe I'll try gel varnish next time. I have used gel stain and liked it.



The brand has been around for a long time IIRC, 35+ years.


If you like gel stains, you should really like gel varnishes. Like
anything else there are different qualities.

I originally started using Bartley gel stains and varnishes in the early
90's. Bartely's sold out to Lawrence McFadden and I loved the LM gel
varnish but they went out of business. I was not impressed by General
Finishes gel varnishes, YMMV

Out of desperation I dried Old Masters, it was the most like the LM gel
stain.

There is a bit of a learning curve. The first coat is always simple,
wipe it on, immediately wipe it off. Second coat wipe on and
wipe/smooth ASAP, after a minute or so. The thicker you put it on the
easier it is to remove. This coat tends to take time to dry depending
on the humidity and temperature. For me lower humidity works better but
in Houston that is hard to come by. The instructions call for a second
wipe down/buff with a new clean cloth between coats and this tends to be
a bit harder to determine when to do so, sooner is better or much much
later is better. Having said all of this using the Scotts paper towels
I never had to wipe/buff a "second time between coats".

Once dry to the touch you can apply another coat. On a good day I can
apply 3 coats.

Once thoroughly dry wrap a piece of paper around a block of wood and rub
it all down to give it a baby butt smooth surface.

FWIW I used it on this also,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...in/photostream

On Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:58:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

That's a keeper and a design to be proud of.

Mike M

On 4/3/2013 11:44 AM, Mike M wrote:
On Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:58:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

That's a keeper and a design to be proud of.

Mike M


Thank you! I'll be keeping it, unless of course... ;~)

Can't wait for the cherry to darken.

On 04/03/2013 07:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Do a google on "cable tray" to get some ideas.

I have some Bush office furniture that came with cable trays. That and
some under desk computer mounts keeps everything off the floor and out
of sight.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 4/3/2013 11:59 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 04/03/2013 07:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn
big" furniture.

Anyway I may add some accent lighting to the upper unit and I need to
address the wires under the desk top, I have plenty of support under the
desk top that I could hang the wiring, sub wolfer, and UPS.

I think I may eventually extend the top trim out another layer and put
LED ribbon lighting under it's edge and or add the same type lighting
along the bottom rail just above the monitor. That may be too close and
cause glare, maybe not.

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the office.
The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk top is 34"
deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of each desk
drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front, it has another
3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3 more pairs of rails
behind that. And I am especially happy with the ark created from the
door top rails that integrate with the cubby top face frame rail.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3717/lightbox/

From inside the office straight into the desk top,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

And a couple of close ups of the in/out boxes in the top. I used the
Incra iBox jig to cut assist with cutting the box joints for the boxes.
The whistling boxes are a 1/4" white oak.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/

Do a google on "cable tray" to get some ideas.

I have some Bush office furniture that came with cable trays. That and
some under desk computer mounts keeps everything off the floor and out
of sight.




Pretty much what I was thinking, I am almost there with the top support.
just a few hangers for the big stuff.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 11:25:19 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 04/03/2013 07:58 AM, Leon wrote: This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn big" furniture.

Looks great, as usual. Makes me want to do something about my desk scenario, get rid of some of the clutter AND upgrade the whole niche.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Not a complaint: You may recall, some time ago, I had trouble opening your Flickr pages. This last link (above) opened fine. I have discovered that anyone's Flickr link, not just yours, with "lightbox/" at the end of the URL, disallowed opening anyone's Flickr page. I suppose the problem must be, might be, on my end. In case anyone else has this problem, copy and paste the URL and remove the "lightbox/" before opening.

Sonny

On 4/3/2013 1:51 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 11:25:19 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 04/03/2013 07:58 AM, Leon wrote: This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn big" furniture.

Looks great, as usual. Makes me want to do something about my desk scenario, get rid of some of the clutter AND upgrade the whole niche.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...6151/lightbox/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Not a complaint: You may recall, some time ago, I had trouble opening your Flickr pages. This last link (above) opened fine. I have discovered that anyone's Flickr link, not just yours, with "lightbox/" at the end of the URL, disallowed opening anyone's Flickr page. I suppose the problem must be, might be, on my end. In case anyone else has this problem, copy and paste the URL and remove the "lightbox/" before opening.

Sonny



Ill try and remember to not to that far and leave the light box link
out. and FWIW on ce you get a link to work you can use the newer and
older buttons to move to the other links with out having to click on
them all.

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 1:02:50 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
and FWIW on ce you get a link to work you can use the newer and older buttons to move to the other links with out having to click on them all.

Yep. I have a Flickr page, so I'm familiar with those buttoms.

Thanks.
Sonny

On 4/3/2013 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.
.....

Nicely executed, as always...

So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the
office. The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk
top is 34" deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of
each desk drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front,
it has another 3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3
more pairs of rails behind that. And I am especially happy with the
ark created from the door top rails....

And when are they marching in two-by-two to fill up that ark? ...

--

On 4/3/2013 12:19 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/3/2013 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.
....

Nicely executed, as always...

Thank you!




So here is a shot of the desk from a distance just outside the
office. The desk and top are about 86" tall, and 96" wide. The desk
top is 34" deep. I am happy with all of the arcs, the top rails of
each desk drawer, the gradual one just under the desk top in front,
it has another 3/4" rail, attached just behind it and there are 3
more pairs of rails behind that. And I am especially happy with the
ark created from the door top rails....

And when are they marching in two-by-two to fill up that ark? ...

--

My wife and I will be doing all of it and not soon enough!

Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.

It looks great, Leon. Oh, what the hell...it even looks spiffy

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 4/3/2013 1:04 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too
damn big" furniture.

It looks great, Leon. Oh, what the hell...it even looks spiffy




Ohhh, um OH! spiffy! thank you!

On Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:58:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

Very nice. To me, the top of the unit appears to have a concave slope
to it. Does it, or is it just the slope of the upper rail giving it
the illusion of a concave top?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

What are you planning on putting in that space above the upper
drawers?

Dave wrote:
On Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:58:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3232/lightbox/

Very nice. To me, the top of the unit appears to have a concave slope
to it. Does it, or is it just the slope of the upper rail giving it
the illusion of a concave top?


Thank you. The only curves are the rails.. The top is straight and flat.
IPhone may be to blame. :-)



http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...3816/lightbox/

What are you planning on putting in that space above the upper
drawers?

Perhaps books, catalogs, small framed pictures. Nothing cast in stone.

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 2:43:52 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
Dave What are you planning on putting in that space above the upper drawers?

Perhaps books, catalogs, small framed pictures.....

His woodworking trophies, Grandpa's/Dad's favorite carving chisel, Grandson's/Granddaughter's first gifted project, ......

Sonny

On 4/3/2013 4:35 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 2:43:52 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
Dave What are you planning on putting in that space above the upper drawers?

Perhaps books, catalogs, small framed pictures.....

His woodworking trophies, Grandpa's/Dad's favorite carving chisel, Grandson's/Granddaughter's first gifted project, ......

Sonny



All good Ideas! I thought of putting the tool box that I was building
when I cut half my thumb off. ;~)

On Apr 3, 5:03*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

All good Ideas! *I thought of putting the tool box that I was building
when I cut half my thumb off. *;~)

I'd like that! My kind of humor....

Anyway, Leon you do some really great work. That desk is no
exception, and I am just as impressed with the design as the
workmanship.

Very nicely done. I can't wait to see it in person.

Robert

On Wed, 03 Apr 2013 15:43:52 -0500, Leon wrote:
What are you planning on putting in that space above the upper
drawers?

Perhaps books, catalogs, small framed pictures. Nothing cast in stone.

Seems like it's just about the right size to put a Samurai sword on a
rack.

On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 9:58:06 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn

big" furniture.

SNIP

Wow ... that is magnificent. I especially liked the way you carried the curve of the top rails across the piece.

Larry

"Gramp's shop" wrote:
On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 9:58:06 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn

big" furniture.

SNIP

Wow ... that is magnificent. I especially liked the way you carried the
curve of the top rails across the piece.

Larry

Thank you. All 5 of the rail pieces that make up hat curve were from he
same board and the grain matches from piece to piece. I had to pay close
attention.

On Apr 3, 10:19*pm, Leon wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote:
On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 9:58:06 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn

big" furniture.

SNIP

Wow ... that is magnificent. *I especially liked the way you carried the
curve of the top rails across the piece.

Larry

Thank you. *All 5 of the rail pieces that make up hat curve were from he
same board and the grain matches from piece to piece. * I had to pay close
attention.

So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine
I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning,
including where the stiles and other gaps would be. Maybe I'd use a
bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the
rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I
did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done
first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two
of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them
identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

On Friday, April 5, 2013 5:09:09 AM UTC-6, Amy Guarino wrote:
So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning, including where the stiles and other gaps would be. Maybe I'd use a bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

That's a good point to question Leon about. One would think, right off, marking/making the arc is easy, but after thinking about it, a bit, there are likely some nuances, in the process, first thoughts would miss. I've erred that way, before.

I'd further suggest/guess, for a first time attempt, as would be in my case, cut the rails ~~1/4" longer than the finish products, do some rough dry fitting to make sure all is on par, before cutting the rails to final finish length. Unless one has further exacting help from SketchUp, or similar, to be more/most sure with those first cuts, a little extra length may be advisable.

Inspect your board well, initially, as best you can, to make sure there are no defects that may cause problems at the cut sites. I've erred in that department, before, as well.

Sonny

On 4/5/2013 6:41 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Friday, April 5, 2013 5:09:09 AM UTC-6, Amy Guarino wrote:
So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning, including where the stiles and other gaps would be. Maybe I'd use a bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

That's a good point to question Leon about. One would think, right off, marking/making the arc is easy, but after thinking about it, a bit, there are likely some nuances, in the process, first thoughts would miss. I've erred that way, before.

I'd further suggest/guess, for a first time attempt, as would be in my case, cut the rails ~~1/4" longer than the finish products, do some rough dry fitting to make sure all is on par, before cutting the rails to final finish length. Unless one has further exacting help from SketchUp, or similar, to be more/most sure with those first cuts, a little extra length may be advisable.

All rails top and bottom were cut as if they were going to be
rectangular. so all the tenons and groves for the panels were cut
precisely to the finished size to begin with. Full scale paper
templates were then glued to the top rails and cut out on the BS. I
then smoothed out those arcs and then cut the curved groove for the
panel with a slot cutter on my router table. Really a very simple process.



Inspect your board well, initially, as best you can, to make sure there are no defects that may cause problems at the cut sites. I've erred in that department, before, as well.

And that is exactly where I had to pay attention too. I wanted all the
rail pieces to flow so they all needed to be used in the same order that
they were cut from the same board.


Sonny

On 4/5/2013 6:09 AM, Amy Guarino wrote:

So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine
I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning,
including where the stiles and other gaps would be. Maybe I'd use a
bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the
rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I
did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done
first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two
of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them
identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

Sketchup is your friend ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 4/5/2013 8:48 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/5/2013 6:09 AM, Amy Guarino wrote:

So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine
I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning,
including where the stiles and other gaps would be. Maybe I'd use a
bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the
rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I
did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done
first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two
of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them
identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

Sketchup is your friend ...

Sketchup and I have barely nodded at each other as we pass in the
street. But let's assume we were better acquainted; the idea would be to
draw a continuous curve that spans the whole unit, including the gaps,
right? And if Leon did it that way, what sort of curve did he use? As
gentle as it is, it might not matter a great deal if it were an arc of a
circle or some other curve, but inquiring minds want to know.

Most importantly, suppose I were to take Sketchup to lunch a few times,
maybe to a ballgame, introduce the wives and kids, lend him some tools,
etc. I'd still have to transfer the curve from my good virtual buddy to
the stock. How does one do that? Smaller pieces might be printable, if
laser printers can be trusted, but what about the middle arch? Does one
repair to the nearest large-format print shop?

On 4/5/2013 6:09 AM, Amy Guarino wrote:
On Apr 3, 10:19 pm, Leon wrote:
"Gramp's shop" wrote:
On Wednesday, April 3, 2013 9:58:06 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
This project has come to a close and adds to our collection of, too damn

big" furniture.

SNIP

Wow ... that is magnificent. I especially liked the way you carried the
curve of the top rails across the piece.

Larry

Thank you. All 5 of the rail pieces that make up hat curve were from he
same board and the grain matches from piece to piece. I had to pay close
attention.

So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine
I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning,
including where the stiles and other gaps would be.

Exactly! In Sketchup I drew the top unit and added an arc starting at
the bottom of the left door top rail and ended it at the bottom of the
right door top rail. Then in Sketchup I erased the parts of the ark
that were not actually touching cabinet parts. I then built the doors
and top center rail with no arc. I printed scale drawings of the arc's,
to glue to each piece, to guide me while cutting the arc's.





Maybe I'd use a
bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the
rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I
did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done
first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two
of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them
identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

See above. ;~)

Amy Guarino wrote:

So educate me here. If I were to try something like that, I imagine
I'd draw a continuous curve as long as the whole unit, meaning,
including where the stiles and other gaps would be. Maybe I'd use a
bendable object like an electrician's snake. Then I'd mark off the
rails and the center arch where they would fall on the curve. Now if I
did that on actual wood I'd have some waste, but it could be done
first on paper instead. I further imagine that I'd mark off only two
of the rails, turning the template over for the other two to make them
identical mirror images. Is that anything like what you did?

That's sort of what I would (do) do. The first thing I would do is decide
whether I want the doors to be conventional (as Leon did) or if I wanted the
door stiles to butt into the rails (which would give one continuous curve,
uninterrupted by the stiles. In the latter case, the tops of the stiles
also have to conform to the curve; harder but not insurmountable.

The second thing to do is determine the length of the board. If
conventional, one needs a board equal in length to the inside width of the
cabinet less the combined width of the stiles. Plus a fudge factor. If
non-conventional, the board needs to be the length of the inside width of
the cabinet. Plus a fudge factor.

The third thing is to make a template; plywood, hardboard, MDF are all
possibilities. I like 3/8" ply. To strike a fair curve on it, I generally
use a batten (thin piece of wood, maybe 1/8" x 3/4" x longer than the curve
will be) or a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe. Mark the batten/pipe at the center
and at each end where the curve ends will be, drive a couple of nails into
the template material where the ends of the curve will be, align the
batten/pipe at the ends and bend it from the center upwards against the
nails; when you have the curve you want, drive another nail into the
template material to hold it in place and draw the curve. If you are using
pipe, be sure to keep the pencil vertical. Cut out the template with band
or saber saw, clean up with plane and/or sanding.

When laying out/cutting the template, be sure to keep at least one square
edge so that it can be properly layed out on the finish board. If you layed
out the curve of the template relative to the edge that will remain straight
you can always use that to reference the template to the finish board; still
nice to have square edges though and they are absolutely necessary if the
finish board is to be curved at top and bottom and if one screws up and cuts
the curves before cutting the finish board into its various lengths. BTDT.

To cut the curve into the finish board, draw the curve from the template
onto it, cut out with band/saber saw leaving the line, tape template to
finish board and cut to template with router and pattern bit.

You asked about making the template half length and flopping it. I've done
it both ways but prefer making a full length one. IME, flopping it can
induce errors - especially at the center - if the alignment is off a bit.
If it should wind up a bit less than symmetrical side to side, that isn't a
catastrophe; unless it is gross, it won't affect joining and will never be
noticed.

One other thing for your consideration is this: if the board that is going
to wind up as the top rails of the doors is wide enough, one could cut a
piece off the top of it to use as the top rail of the face frame. Also
depends on the look one wants and the grain pattern of the other pieces of
the face frame.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net