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#1
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I know someone here has this.
My barrel tile roof in Florida does not leak, yet. 25 years old. It is cement tile over tar paper and hot tar. When I have it replaced do I screw down the existing sheathing? replace sheathing (with what?) tar paper and hot tar? What I would call "Ice and water shield"? I am in a deed restricted community and cannot put on shingles or a built up steel roof. I like the terra cotta look anyway. Ed |
#2
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On 2/18/2013 6:17 PM, Ed Ahern wrote:
I know someone here has this. My barrel tile roof in Florida does not leak, yet. 25 years old. It is cement tile over tar paper and hot tar. When I have it replaced do I screw down the existing sheathing? replace sheathing (with what?) tar paper and hot tar? What I would call "Ice and water shield"? I am in a deed restricted community and cannot put on shingles or a built up steel roof. I like the terra cotta look anyway. Ed I thought those were life time roofs. |
#3
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the tiles last but the waterproofing underneath gets destroyed by the heat
the tiles were never expected to be waterproof, only to protect the sheathing from the sun Ed "Leon" wrote in message ... On 2/18/2013 6:17 PM, Ed Ahern wrote: I know someone here has this. My barrel tile roof in Florida does not leak, yet. 25 years old. It is cement tile over tar paper and hot tar. When I have it replaced do I screw down the existing sheathing? replace sheathing (with what?) tar paper and hot tar? What I would call "Ice and water shield"? I am in a deed restricted community and cannot put on shingles or a built up steel roof. I like the terra cotta look anyway. Ed I thought those were life time roofs. |
#4
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On Monday, February 18, 2013 6:44:05 PM UTC-6, Ed Ahern wrote:
the tiles last but the waterproofing underneath gets destroyed by the heat the tiles were never expected to be waterproof, only to protect the sheathing from the sun That doesn't sound right, to me. One of those pre-Hurricane Andrew contractors must have installed that sheathing. Sonny |
#5
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Ed Ahern wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message ... On 2/18/2013 6:17 PM, Ed Ahern wrote: I know someone here has this. My barrel tile roof in Florida does not leak, yet. 25 years old. It is cement tile over tar paper and hot tar. When I have it replaced do I screw down the existing sheathing? replace sheathing (with what?) tar paper and hot tar? What I would call "Ice and water shield"? I am in a deed restricted community and cannot put on shingles or a built up steel roof. I like the terra cotta look anyway. Ed I thought those were life time roofs. the tiles last but the waterproofing underneath gets destroyed by the heat the tiles were never expected to be waterproof, only to protect the sheathing from the sun Ed What *should* be under the tiles is 90# roofing material. It is much, much heavier than *tar paper* and has mineral grains embedded in it. You said it doesn't leak, what makes you think it is being destroyed? In the unlikely event that you do get leaks and they are so profuse that they can't get fixed, you would... 1. tear off all tiles 2. maybe, tear off old 90# 3. hot mop on new 90# 4. put on new tiles, nailing the first course and affixing the rest with mortar 5. get a loan to pay for the above -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#6
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On Feb 19, 6:49*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
I myself don't worry too much about things that haven't happened. Plenty on my plate these past few years to sit and fret about things that haven't happened yet. 1. tear off all tiles 2. maybe, tear off old 90# 3. hot mop on new 90# 4. put on new tiles, nailing the first course and affixing the rest with mortar 5. get a loan to pay for the above I howled after reading this. I do a lot of roof work and tile replacement and repair is in my toolbox as I have a good technician for small repairs, access to a huge tile boneyard, and work with a great tile installation sub contractor. You have no idea how true #5 is... I LOVE tile work as it is hard to master, but literally pays much, much better than anything else I do. By a long shot. A re-lay is one thing, but repairs.... Ahhhh.... Usually, my customers have already had tile repairs done incorrectly, and that makes me a referral from another customer. Since they are coming to me after they have had an unsuccessful dealing with a tile roof repair contractor and because I give them a written warranty (something unheard of on roof repairs) and because I have confidence in my troubleshooting and repair abilities, I get my price. Most tile repair guys screw up more than they fix, so they don't warranty their work or slip out of it if the warranty is exercised. Like I said, I LOVE tile repairs. And OP's barrel tiles (if they are a true, two piece, clay extrusion) are the hardest tile roofs to trouble shoot and repair. They are the most expensive to repair of all roofs. Robert |
#7
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I live in a community of 200 homes. All built around the same time by the
same developer. It looks like we are losing about 10 roofs a year. 90# material may very well be what's underneath the tiles.(I did not know what to call it) Is the 90# material better than the "Ice & water" rubber shield or just different? I have seen them install both types, different houses. I'm just trying to be a informed consumer. Ed "dadiOH" wrote in message ... Ed Ahern wrote: "Leon" wrote in message ... On 2/18/2013 6:17 PM, Ed Ahern wrote: I know someone here has this. My barrel tile roof in Florida does not leak, yet. 25 years old. It is cement tile over tar paper and hot tar. When I have it replaced do I screw down the existing sheathing? replace sheathing (with what?) tar paper and hot tar? What I would call "Ice and water shield"? I am in a deed restricted community and cannot put on shingles or a built up steel roof. I like the terra cotta look anyway. Ed I thought those were life time roofs. the tiles last but the waterproofing underneath gets destroyed by the heat the tiles were never expected to be waterproof, only to protect the sheathing from the sun Ed What *should* be under the tiles is 90# roofing material. It is much, much heavier than *tar paper* and has mineral grains embedded in it. You said it doesn't leak, what makes you think it is being destroyed? In the unlikely event that you do get leaks and they are so profuse that they can't get fixed, you would... 1. tear off all tiles 2. maybe, tear off old 90# 3. hot mop on new 90# 4. put on new tiles, nailing the first course and affixing the rest with mortar 5. get a loan to pay for the above -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#8
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OK, Ed. There are true barrel tiles, and they are extruded clay, a
two piece overlap system. Then there are barrel shaped cement tiles. These are not actual barrel tiles, but concrete manufactured tiles manufactured to have the appearance and coloration of real clay tiles. Here's a hint. If the tiles are "U" shaped and very fragile, about 16" long and about 7 - 8" across, they are true barrel tiles. They will not be uniform in shape or dimension. If they are uniform in shape and dimension and actually look like tile, no matter what the profile (barrel, half barrel, striated, smooth, rough, etc.) they are probably concrete. So which do you have? Robert |
#9
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Ed Ahern wrote:
I live in a community of 200 homes. All built around the same time by the same developer. It looks like we are losing about 10 roofs a year. Losing them to what? What is wrong/happening to them? 90# material may very well be what's underneath the tiles.(I did not know what to call it) Is the 90# material better than the "Ice & water" rubber shield or just different? I have seen them install both types, different houses. I'm just trying to be a informed consumer. Is it better? I have no idea. I've seen "rubber" membranes used but not under tile. Keep in mind I haven't seen all that many tile roofs. Or ther kinds, for that matter. What I *do* know is that there has to be some way of afixing the tile to the menbrane. One way is to use mortar. That will stick well to the 90# felt assuming a low-moderate roof pitch; no more than, I would guess, 5:12. Another way is to naol wood battens onto the roof and then nail the tiles to those. Somehow, that does not appeal to me; I'd just as soon not have 100s & 100s of nails going through whatever is supposed to keep out the water. Nor am I all that keen on having all those wood battens up there getting wet and trapping water; as you pointed out, water does get under the tiles. There are probably other ways too. A good way to inform yourself would be to browse thew sites of tile manufacturers and get their installation PDFs to read. Here are a couple one to get you started... http://www.rooftile.com/information/...formation.html http://www.hansonrooftile.com/index...._in formation -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
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